Reddit reviews Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4" TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 Feet

You only need a MIDI cable if you want to send MIDI messages to the Volca to automate actions or control parameters.

For audio, just look on amazon for a 1/4" to 1/8" TRS or TS cable. Hosa makes some cheap ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1543511670&sr=8-9&keywords=1%2F4+to+3.5mm+trs+cable

I use a GoPro suction cupped to the inside of the cockpit for video. To get the audio I attach a 3.5mm Mic Adapter and then a 1/8 inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TRS Adapter Cable - 10 Foot.


If you get a GoPro you'll want to find some larger batteries, I can never get more than 90-120 minutes out of one.

a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36 from the scarlett's headphone out to the "front right/left" input on the speaker

or

a cable like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C/ from the scarlett's main outs to the same "front right/left"

Not sure if it would work, but maybe try a 1/8 to 1/4 cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36

Just checked out the two, looks like the lite uses 3.5mm TRS on the cable snake bundle and the forge has 1/4" TRS inputs.

Basically all you'd need is [a couple of these](Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.U8BybDJV41T2) cables.

Should do the trick.

It really depends what you are connecting to. The newer GoPros ONLY record audio through the USB interface. That makes it pretty much impossible unless you buy an expensive cable. If no GoPro or an older GoPro you can use any cable like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143682&sr=8-1&keywords=3mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

I also suggest getting a splitter if you don't want to take up a jack just for audio recording. It will allow you to plug in a headset along with it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143815&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter

All in all yes its very cheap. The link Haykinson posted is a little overpriced although it contains everything you need.

The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.

If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS

If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

This, cable with on one side the big plug and on the other the small. The big plug goes into the output of the monologue and the small one into the aux of the monotron. Then it should work, for what you want to achieve it doesn't matter if the cable is stereo or mono.


One other tip, the monotron's headphone output does not like mono cables, so make sure you use a stereo cable/headphones. You can read up on the difference between stereo and mono cables using google.

I'm sure you can find other 1/4 to 1/8 cables, unless you really wanted a custom one like you said, sleeved. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 And i'm sure you could pull off the 1/4 thing, might be a tight fix/awkward one.

I have a Sony ICD-AX412 and you're going to need This and this. This will plug to your headset and the aircraft so you can capture high quality audio. It only sucks cuz you have to sync audio and video in editing.

If the speakers are powered by the wall and connect via a 1/4" plug or 3.5 mm plug, they could connect to the mixing board directly or through a socket adapter or cable of the correct genders and poles.

If your speakers have bare wire connectors, you'll need some kind of amplifier between them and your mixing board, or use powered (amplifying) mixing board which does not need an amplifier. Your mixing board may or may not have USB connectivity. If not, you can probably connect the mixing board's line in and line out to the PC sound card's line out and line in directly or through a socket adapter.

Your PC sound card probably came with basic audio mixer software, which might be good enough for your immediate task.

Does your Pocket Piano have MIDI I/O? I recommend reading this document, if it does. You can use any sequencer to sequence it, if it has MIDI. DAWs, hardware, whatever!

And you're right about the mixer. It's exactly what you need to aggregate your collection so that it can all come out of the same speakers. For the pocket operators, you can use a 1/8" to 1/4" cable like this to connect them to a mixer.

The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).

The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).

Things I like about the SA60:

• Bass boost (called "volume compensation" or something, if I remember correctly) can be enabled by pressing in on the volume knob, turning even bass-light music into wubby goodness.
  
• The volume knob is digital, meaning no channel imbalance. It remembers your volume when the unit is powered off as well (by pressing the Input button once).
  
• The banana plugs I have in the back are secured very tightly, as well as the RCA cables I use. One less thing to worry about.
  
  Things I dislike about the SA60:
  
• When plugging it in, it may spark. Just Chinese manufacturing, I suppose. I plugged mine into its power strip first then the unit (sparked at the unit), and has been running fine since.
  
• The front input (switched by holding the Input button to the left of it) hugs cables tightly. You have to hold onto the unit and tug before the cable comes out. To circumvent this, I have that right-angle connector in there instead, which easily rotates in the port and cables can plug in/out of that easily. Adapter found here.
  
  My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.

While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.

You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.

That's the one sitting next to me right now as I mix. It comes with a power adapter-- no batteries. You'll need a 1/4th-to-3.5mm audio cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396414454&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5mm+to+1+4

Haven't experienced any signal degradation or noise. The volume gets to bleeding ears levels. The beautiful part is that 4 people can be plugged in and amp'd at the same time with no signal degredation/noise. I tested out my Q-701's and the DT-770's at the same time-- audio dope.

Okay, would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Sorry man. You can plug headphones into the headphone jack, but you don't have to, you can run FROM the headphone jack INTO your Soundcard. Your headphone jack is either a big one (1/4 inch guitar cable size) or it's a little one (1/8 inch, the size that earbuds use). You may need a $5.00 adapter from Walmart/Radio Shack/The Source to go from 1/4 inch, to 1/8 inch.

Latency is a function of your recording software and your soundcard. You might have to adjust your multi-track software or your soundcard driver to reduce latency, but there's no reason to think that you have to live with latency. My computer 15 years ago had zero latency. Software developers typically set a default for playback, they're not typically considering people who record. So they allow lots of latency. But you're literally looking for a slider in your soundcard driver.

I can't be super specific because I don't know what type of computer you have - laptop, desktop, PC, Mac, or what multi-track software you're using, or what your soundcard is.

Allowing latency when you're mixing 32 tracks stops you from dropping out and crashing - if you've got three or four tracks on the go, you don't need latency.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480020460&sr=8-6&keywords=1+4+to+1+8+adapter

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPI9ULK?psc=1

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

Close, try this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/

Now if you have an AUX cord (like the wire you'd use to plug an iPhone into a car or set of speakers), that's a 3.5mm stereo minijack cable. You could use that with an adapter like this- you stick this adapter in the back of the mic's receiver pack, then use your AUX cord to go from this adapter to the laptop's Mic port.

Whether you use adapter and aux cord, or the adapter cord I linked, the result is the same.

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

The B112D's take 1/4" TRS inputs or XLR. The XLR connector on the speaker end is female, hence why you need a male cable (can't connect two female connectors!). I'm pretty certain by 2.5" you mean 1/4" (which is the same size as is used on guitar leads, and is larger in diameter than most headphone/earphone connectors). Unrelated but for future reference 3.5mm is often referred to as 1/8", which makes no sense since they're not the same diameter but shhh...

Of course, I imagine a 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable should work just as well as the solution I posted, just connect the smaller, 3.5mm end to your laptop, and the larger, 1/4" end to 'Input 1' on the speakers. Then use the daisy-chaining technique I outlined in the parent post.

If you need stereo separation then that's a completely different matter, if it wasn't already complicated!

Quick question for people who know! I can get a USB sound card that has a Headphone and MIC plugin... Is it possible to just get one of these and connect it to the guitar and then into the MIC input on the sound card?

Thanks!
-aledclar

What size is the audio-in port on your sound card? Is it 3.5mm or 1/4 inch? If it is 3.5mm I recommend this Hosa CMS-110 3.5 mm TRS to 1/4 inch TRS Stereo Interconnect Cable, 10 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ruMbzbQFG7TV5

> 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS

It will make sense when you see it. It goes in the MON Send port above Line 3/4, and runs to your Mic In.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1543366151&sr=8-8&keywords=3.5+mm+TRS+to+1%2F4%22+TRS+Stereo+Interconnect+Cable

You then use the AUX Mon knob on the Mic channel to send your microphone signal to the PC, make sure AUX Mon is turned down for all other channels

but with the 2i2, i can still use both of my speakers? and i also need something like this?

And i didn't quite get it. I should get a DAC aswell? which one?

For an inexpensive solution:
3.5mm to 1/4" cable
Headphone/Line output on the amp -> Mic input on the computer
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4%22&qid=1566307817&s=gateway&sr=8-15

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

You want something like This. That would get plugged into the "line in" input in your picture

Edit: Just kidding, don't do this.