Reddit Reddit reviews Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

We found 60 Reddit comments about Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.
Cleans, protects, lubricates, and improves conductivityReduces intermittent connections, arcing, and RFI as well as wear and abrasionSafe for use on all metal connectors and contacts and will not harm plasticsDispensing Type: SprayVolume: 5 oz
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60 Reddit comments about Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.:

u/DelphFox · 12 pointsr/LifeProTips

Amazon is what we're gonna do.

u/nevermind4790 · 7 pointsr/vinyl

Sounds like you just need to Deoxit the volume pots in the KA-400 to get rid of the scratchy sound. I did the same thing in two of my vintage Harman Kardon receivers, and to pitch controls in two of my turntables. Deoxit is like audio magic, I kid you not!

u/mesaone · 6 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

better use a contact cleaner instead of lighter fluid. Costs about the same. Deoxit is a cleaner you can spray into the pot, twist the pot repeatedly, and then (optional) blow out with canned air. Works like a charm, it's made specifically for this purpose.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 6 pointsr/vinyl

I don't have experience with your specific turntable, but on many turntables with a manual pitch control, the potentiometer(s) (aka "pots") will become dirty over time, which will lead to inconsistent voltage being pushed through them. You can clean the pots out by using an electronics cleaner (see below), followed by a lubricant. There may also be some small rheostats that are used to set the pitch range that have succumbed to the same problem. For both issues you will probably need to get at the underside of the turntable to effectively clean them. (Be sure to remove the platter and secure the tonearm before turning the turntable over to access the internals).

Should that not work, it may be that some of the capacitors have drifted from their values, or have failed completely. cleaning guide (for receivers/amplifiers, but generally applies to all pot cleaning):

I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:

Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.

u/bongklute · 5 pointsr/vintageaudio

Deoxit is the first step.

Access the backsides of the volume knobs and switches, and clean them with the Deoxit. I can guarantee that this will improve the situation.

u/MojoMonster · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Are you sure it's a coil split and not series/parallel or OOP?

Because those require the middle position.

For the other thing, your pots need cleaning. Some DeOxit will clear that up.

u/HoboStink · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I'd hit it with some Deoxit and see if it helps the problem.

u/2old2care · 4 pointsr/amateurradio

These are amazing radios for their time. I think the model Y600 is a vacuum-tube model that works on dry-cell batteries or on 120/220V AC. Because these radios used heavy, expensive, and non-rechargeable batteries, they were optimized for very low power consumption. The model 1000 is more recent and appears to be solid state (transistors instead of tubes).

If these have been stored under good conditions, they should be fairly easy to bring back into operation. I have a simpler Silvertone radio from that era that sill works fine on two AA batteries--and it has never needed any repairs. There are no expensive parts in these radios, but you might have trouble finding replacements for some of them. The tubes are still available from many sources, but they are actually unlikely to be bad even after 40 or 50 years. You may have bad capacitors, particularly those in the power supplies, but if the radios have been stored at near room temperature (especially not in a hot attic), even these may be just fine. Portable radios actually are less likely to have hard-to-fix problems than similar line-voltage powered ones.

One almost universal problem with these radios is corrosion of the many switches they use, particularly the ones that change the frequency bands. The best way to clean these is with a contact cleaner formulated to remove the oxidation. The same cleaner an be used on other controls (volume, tone, tuning) and sliding contacts such as the telescoping antenna.

The tube sockets are also troublesome corrosion spots, so each tube should be removed and the socked sprayed, then the tube pushed and pulled in the socket a few times to "wipe" the contacts. In the newer radio, the transistors may also be in sockets--very unusual today but fairly common on those days. The transistors are also probably not bad, but they are easy to test. Not sure about this radio, but generally at that time, most or all transistors were a couple of basic, general-purpose PNP devices. Their characteristics are not particularly critical and cross-reference replacements are easy to find.

Be absolutely sure when you remove tubes/transistors to replace them in the correct sockets and in the correct orientation (for transistors--tubes fit only one way). Make careful notes of which goes where. A wrong tube in a wrong socket can potentially do a lot of damage, and the sockets are identical.

The schematic diagrams of these radios are probably available online, maybe for free if you're lucky---search the model number and "schematic" using Google images.

Hope this helps. Message me if you have any questions.

u/TheParallax · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Hosa D5S-6 Deoxit Contact Cleaner 5% Spray

I just bought a can of this myself for my amp

u/burkholderia · 3 pointsr/Guitar

What do you mean by "blows up?" Do you get no sound over a certain point, crackling/static, or a squeal? If it cuts out or crackles it could be that the pot is dirty or shorted which could be cleaned up by spraying some deoxit into the pot casing.

u/UboaNoticedYou · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

  1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.

  2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.

  3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.

    Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.

    Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.

    While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] ( This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.

    Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.

    Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!
u/tmwrnj · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Pickups almost never fail - they're just a big coil of wire, there's not really anything to go wrong with them.

The first thing to check is obvious - is your volume or tone control rolled off? It sounds silly, but it's easy to overlook if you rarely use the neck pickup.

The next most likely problem is the pickup selector switch. Les Pauls use an open type of selector switch that's prone to corrosion, especially if it's infrequently used. Plug your guitar in, strum the open strings, then click the pickup selector switch up and down and listen to your amp. If you can hear crackling or intermittent sound, it's probably the selector switch.

Most switch problems can be fixed with a squirt of DeoxIT, but the switch may need to be replaced. If you can solder, it's a ten minute job and a six dollar part. If you can't solder, this is a good opportunity to learn - you can buy a basic soldering iron kit for less than $20.

Failing that, take it to a competent luthier. Guitar electronics aren't particularly complicated, so it should be a cheap and quick fix.

u/randomracc · 3 pointsr/walkman

Use Deoxit spray on the volume control, and wiggle the volume up and down

here's a link for some if you don't have any

u/artist508 · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I've brought back a few under performing motors by spraying them out with Deoxit.

u/estrago1 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want contact cleaner. Deoxit is great for cleaning potentiometers, as well as other electronic connections. Look at the picture of the pot that seb_m posted; see that little notch on the bottom, right-hand of the picture? That's where you'll want to spray the contact cleaner. Then you just turn the pot back and forth a few times to work it around.

u/fizzicist · 3 pointsr/RedditForGrownups

Also, I had trouble with the Roomba not making a good connection the charging base. It would keep backing up and trying again. Cleaned it with this that I had laying around and it charges on the first attempt

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

Deoxidizer spray is also good for those volume knobs that make the speakers crackle when you turn them. Potentiometer contacts inside are just oxidized.

u/Cheeto333 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

This stuff works very well. I think Radio Shack sells it.

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air

    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/ThickAsABrickJT · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Either the selector itself is dirty/broken (in which case, the Deoxit treatment should do the trick) or there is a problem with one channel of the phono stage's circuitry.

Try the contact cleaner first. If you can get ahold of an oscilloscope--or hell, a piezo earpiece and a quiet room--you can measure the output of the phono stage to track down where the signal from the bad channel is getting lost. I have a feeling it's either a dried-out capacitor or a failed transistor.

u/slaab9k · 3 pointsr/n64

Go over your connections (including where the cartridge plugs in) with this:

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

You’ll need it again and again in the future if you are in the process of learning electronics repair. Cleaning electrical connections with isopropyl alcohol is misguided and can accelerate problems recurring.

u/atetuna · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I was able to read the signs for the streets on the corners around my neighborhood at night for the first time. The beam pattern kicks up to the right, and so do HID projectors, which is done so signs like that can be read. I used to bring a custom made 5000 lumen flashlight with me to shine at signs like that, but I won't need to do that anymore. That's all I can tell you so far. I literally only have about five miles with them so far, and no highway driving yet. Deer are a big concern for me too, so I'll be paying close attention to that when I drive outside of town at night.

Yes, glass lens.

Some people have had issues with the relays that come with the Putco harness, so I ordered a couple spares. Here's the products I ordered. All from Amazon, all with Prime shipping. Unfortunately some of the packages arrived in three days instead of two, but that should still give you plenty of time for your trip.

Hella 55/100W bulbs
IPF H4 housings
Pilot relays
Putco harness

This video can help tell you where to run the harness. Btw, the video says it, but there's a spare plug that goes into the old harness bulb socket. All it does is get the signal to flip on the low or high beams.

One extra thing I did was spray all the contacts with Deoxit to get a cleaner connection and prevent corrosion.

u/electrictrumpet · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Sheesh, actually I just checked and it is like $15 a can now, price must've gone way up. I bought mine like 5+ years ago and it's still got plenty left but I have used it on lots of stuff.

u/Addy711 · 2 pointsr/simracing

If you can get a part number or the specs you may find it on or

Also you may be able to revive your old pot if it's just jittery or spiky with DeoxIT D5

u/tim404 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Along these lines: since you're going to the trouble of pulling the dash apart and getting to the back, you should hit your electrical connections with some contact cleaner to help prevent this from happening in the future.

u/dragonslovetacos2 · 2 pointsr/Turntablists

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. I love you too.

Source: electronics technician

u/weirdal1968 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

There are tiny slots in the EQ sliders where you would spray the contact cleaner order Deoxit D5 on Amazon. Use the link below to learn how to use it to clean the volume control.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

u/dabneyd79 · 2 pointsr/simracing

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

u/Badger68 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Deoxit D5 is the best contact cleaner for dirty pots. I tried substitutes (radio shack...) and they just don't cut the mustard. I haven't cleaned a twin, but on other amps and guitars I've gotten it to work without taking the chassis out. Turn the amp off, spray a good amount between the knob and the amp. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and leave it to dry for a minute or two. Power it on and see if it worked.

u/BrewerGlyph · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

u/petelp · 2 pointsr/Roku

This problem sounds like you may have some dirty or oxidized contacts on your hdmi ports and/or plugs, which can definitely cause the symptoms you're seeing.

Whenever you remove a plug and plug it in again the friction of that action does a little cleaning, which would explain the temporary improvement you see when you do that.

Removing the plug and plugging it in (say 20 times in a row) may make your problem disappear for a much longer time. However, that action, preceded by spraying "contact cleaner spray" into both the hdmi ports and the hdmi plugs, will provide the best solution. (Assuming that dirty/oxidized contacts are the source of your problem.)

I do think that's like to be the answer. I had similar problems years ago, and the solution I described has kept me problem free ever since, without needing to repeat the process.

u/major_space · 2 pointsr/scooters

If that's the case this stuff solves every problem I have ever had.

u/tehsma · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

If the volume (trim) knob on the back of the monitors is a potentiometer, which it likely is, perhaps it is a bit corroded. Potentiometers have copper contacts which oxidize.

This was problematic in my Mackie HR824 monitors- The Frequency response was compromised in one of them, due to this corrosion. You could tell because, when you adjusted the volume knob while a song was playing, you could hear scratchiness, and certain freqs would fade in and out. I Fixed it by spraying a small amount of deoxit around the edges of the potentiometer (WHILE THE UNIT WAS OFF), and then rotating the knob to its two extremes a few times to clean off the gunk. Problem solved.

If you don't hear dips in volume or scratchiness when you adjust the volume (trim) knob while sound is playing, then I don't think its an oxidation problem.

Another point where this can happen is in the output stage of your audio interface. In some cheaper or defective units, the outputs may not be properly balanced, leading to asymmetrical volume response. And still another: The cables themselves. I can imagine that one cable may have a poor connection and suffer some signal loss, so its worth ruling that out as well.

u/Narwahl_Whisperer · 2 pointsr/prius

You could try this:


get control contact cleaner (not eyeglass contact cleaner- this stuff is meant for electronics) like this


(do this stuff with the car off)


remove the volume knob.


spray contact cleaner where the twist part of the volume control meets the rest of the car


spin the volume knob a lot


replace knob


repeat as necessary. Try to keep the contact cleaner out of your cd player. Also, I would wear plastic gloves. edit: maybe even shield the area with a rag- the contact cleaner almost always splashes back, this stuff sprays way harder than it needs to. I've got it in my eye more than once, even with glasses on.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.

u/laydros · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Pioneer Andrew Jones SP-BS22 for $140 and a craigslist or thriftstore integrated amp or reciever with the other $60.

Cheapest deals will be 70's Japanese stuff. Kenwood, Pioneer, Teac, and a lot of others I can't think of off the top of my head.

Then go to Amazon and get some Deoxit to spray on the knobs and switches every couple of years. This will knock off any corrosion on the controls to keep you from getting scratchy knobs or loosing channels.

u/MetalHead310 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I didnt read your specific problem but I know for a FACT Deoxit is the gold standard for cleaning electric components. I have used it on electric guitars and vintage stereo receivers with great results.

u/Goodwill_Gamer · 1 pointr/retrogaming

DEOXIT is an amazing electronic contact cleaner. I use it all the time and it's like magic.

It's a little spendy, but one can will last you a long time (years of cleaning).

Amazon link

You can also get it at Guitar Center if you have one of those near by.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/vinyl

New belt, plus flip it over and get inside the table to squirt some deoxit into the speed control potentiometers. Then twist the knobs in both direction as far as the knobs will go a bunch of times. Well, sliders I should say, not pot and knobs.

I have an SL-23, had to do the same thing for the same problem. Speed problems are now gone.

u/pixelbaron · 1 pointr/Guitar

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

u/IHasIcing · 1 pointr/headphones
u/lnxmachine · 1 pointr/nds

This worked on mine, but only for a short period of time. I fixed it permanently with DeoxIT. Just take off the back cover (you'll need a tri-wing screwdriver) and spray this stuff into the buttons a few times (work the button a bunch between sprays). I did this a couple weeks ago and they've been working great since.

u/CrobisaurCroney · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I spilled soda on my numpad a few months ago my 0 key was completely gunked up. I used some of this on it and after two or three applications it was back to functioning order. Note my board has MX Browns on it. It would be worth the try though because that stuff has hundreds of uses around the house (much like WD-40).

u/LordPineapple · 1 pointr/OffGrid

What about some DeoxIT Contact Cleaner?

u/rich-creamery-butter · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Isopropyl helps, I'd get some of this stuff too. It's great for exactly what you need.

u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

Chemistry causes it. Imagine a brand new shiny penny vs. one that's several years old. Oxygen (and moisture) in the air combines with metal and tarnishes it. The same thing happens inside your volume control, which is why it can't make good contact anymore. They try to build electronic parts to prevent this, but it doesn't always work.

Luckily, this is a common problem, so there are products to fix it. A favorite of a lot of people is CAIG DeoxIT D5. You could try getting some of that (maybe through amazon), spraying it into the control pod around the volume control, and seeing if that makes a difference. The plastic volume knob should come off (based on photos here), so I'd pull that off before spraying, then spray directly into the gap around the metal shaft.

u/CarsonReidDavis · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I've used WD40 with plenty of success on old locks. With antiques, it is often less about the lube and more about cleaning out all the old gunk.

I would recommend getting over your kitchen sink and giving it a healthy spray, don't worry about using too much. If you have a rake, you can roughly rake in and out to get all the spray worked into the pin stacks. You should also mess with you tension wrench to work the plug a little bit. I would expect to see some dirty discharge from the lock when you do this. If you really want, you can repeat the process a couple of times until there is no more rust/dirt/oxidation coming out.

Recently I've been using DeoxIT D5, and it is quite effective. It is available on Amazon.

u/sir5yko · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

For the crackly jacks, a contact cleaner should work --

u/2k4s · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

deoxit is even better for dirty scratchy pots. Also works on battery connectors and anything metal. It's not something you use every day. Depends on the humidity and salt where you live (ocean), how much you gig, if outdoors or not. Lots of fog/snow/bubble machines Etc. Also it depends on the type of metal in your connectors and jacks. If they are dissimilar it increases corrosion (science man!). In the studio it's a once every six months chore if the head tech is cool. Once a month if he's an asshole.

Surprised this doesn't get talked about more on here. Someone who has some oxidization on their pedal/guitar/amp jacks and a decent pair of ears can hear the difference after using a burnishing tool and some Deoxit. if you have oxidized jacks this will improve your tone whereas buying a $50 cable will do absolutely nothing.

u/theshreddening · 1 pointr/Guitar

For cleaning the switches get Deoxit D5. All of my guitar/amp techs use it and it works wonders. Had a old Peavey amp with no output, sprayed all the pots which resulted in a green liquid streaming out of each one and bam, full functional amp.

u/Lev_Astov · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

I lived with those for a couple years and the degradation of connection quality was pretty rapid due to the small contacts. Now I cherish the stronger magnetic connection and larger contact area of the circular connectors, since the need for data connections is so rare, even on my phone where I use them most. I imagine most of my trouble came from the phone and connector living in my sweaty/dusty pocket, though.

If you do suffer connection degradation, use Deoxit and a toothbrush to clean the contacts out. That stuff is magic and I use it for any electrical connection issue.

u/misterconfuse · 1 pointr/Switch

I used contact cleaner on my ps3 controllers when they ever have buttons that stick, don't work properly, or have that issue where pressing one button somehow presses other buttons. It works everytime. Link to the contact cleaner I use

u/Vid-Master · 1 pointr/hometheater

Something like that would be good for cleaning contacts on things like potentiometers (non-digital volume sliders / knobs) and the inside of connections or plugs or any other metal to metal contacts that carries signal or power.

Using water is a bad idea on any kind of internal parts, but should be OK if used on the outside of equipment, with NOT TOO MUCH water and quick drying afterwards.

u/ImpossiblePossom · 1 pointr/DIY

Did you save the old switches? A spray of some electronic cleaner (deoxit) and cycling then several times might bring the switches back.

u/Expat123456 · 1 pointr/Android

Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)

u/theconceptstays · 1 pointr/vinyl

Maybe try some Deoxit.

u/jackholexxxx · 1 pointr/vinyl

Clean the switch with Deoxit.

u/reggiebags · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Buy a can of deoxit and clean around the analog sticks really well allowing some to leak into the gaps, then use as normal and the drift goes away almost immediately.