Reddit reviews Howard Products BBB012 Cutting Board Oil, 12 oz

This is after 4 months of a new routine and adding PocketDerm! Before I always had skin like on the left, and it stayed that way until I finally found what works. I started OCM because my skin was constantly dry/dehydrated. If you've never tried it, I would recommend. I would also recommend PocketDerm. If you're interested my referral is in the Imgur description. If you use it you get a month for free. :)

Morning:


OCM with mineral oil (I buy this from Home Depot) and a few drops of tea tree oil

Wash off excess oil with CeraVe foaming cleanser

Stridex

CeraVe AM lotion/sunscreen


Night:

OCM

Wash off excess oil with CeraVe foaming cleanser

PocketDerm

CeraVe in the tub

Here is a short write up, I will try to be as coherent as possible [7]:

Take various stages of 3M automotive sandpaper. I started by sanding down everything with a 400 grit sandpaper. The wood looked brand in a matter of seconds. After I sanded everything again with 800 grit, then followed by 1000, and finally 2000 grit sandpaper. 2000 grit will get the sandpaper down to a smooth, shiny finish almost like hard plastic. Finish up with a few hours and layers of butcher block wood oils and your MFLB feels as smooth as a billiard ball and feels GREAT when hitting native mode.

As far as sanding off your serial number and the engraved writing keep in mind the higher the grit of the sandpaper the less it takes off.

400 grit - The only grit that will sand off the letters if you applied generously would be the 400 grit sandpaper. Go the easiest on the 400, just to get the color of the fresh wood. Keep your sandpaper and wood free of dust when switching to a different grit of sandpaper.

800 grit - When you go to 800 look at the wood at an angle to a source of light and you can see where the wood can vary in roughness. Try to keep a universal texture on all your wood.

1000 grit - When going to 1000 you can put more weight into the wood when you sand, it by now you can see that the only "wood dust" that comes off is VERY fine. Keep sanding and sanding until all your wood feels smooth and doesn't show any flaws in reflected light.

2000 grit - Once again clean off any dust off the wood with a dry cloth. With 2000 grit you want to put even more pressure on the wood when you sand. At first it will feel like you aren't doing much, but then you start to notice the sandpaper starts to stick to the wood and slide across as if you are forcibly rubbing your index finger on the surface of glass. Take a look at your wood in the reflection of light. It should be really shiny like hard plastic. This is the result we have been working so hard for. Keep cleaning off the wood and resanding until the entire surface is shiny and smooth

Butcher Block Oils - I used Howard Butcher Block conditioner followed by Howard Butcher Block oil. The bottles come with directions on how to apply.

They sell it at IKEA, actually.. specifically for the butcher blocks.

Or you could find it online.

That seems odd.

For any wooden board the best method I've found is to first buy both food grade mineral oil (mineral oil stabilized with vitamin E) and "butcher block conditioner" which is just mineral oil combined with beeswax. Second, when the board is dry liberally apply the mineral oil to it. You might want to do this in a big bag because the oil should be dripping off the sides. Then leave it in the bag for at least six hours turning every so often. Finally, once it's done wipe any excess oil off and apply the conditioner, which is more viscous and won't drip. Let it sit for maybe 20 minutes and buff it off with paper towels. You should be good to go for several months at that point, after which you can really just reapply the conditioner.

More here: https://www.cuttingboard.com/how-to-oil-and-maintain-a-cutting-board/

Examples of mineral oil + conditioner:

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBB012-Cutting-Board-12-Ounce/dp/B004G6X0J2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497534289&sr=8-6&keywords=butcher+block+conditioner

https://www.amazon.com/Howard-BBC012-Butcher-Conditioner-12-Ounce/dp/B001ESTA30/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497534289&sr=8-3&keywords=butcher+block+conditioner

You can use a variety of types but if you want the knife to be food-safe, mineral oil is a good choice. I'm lazy and use this brand via one of these.

This stuff. It helps keep food and moisture out of a wooden cutting board. My thought is with the wooden handles is that it's still food safe (unlike most polyurethanes), and will hopefully help the wood handles last longer.

This is what I use and is pretty popular for this purpose: https://smile.amazon.com/Howard-BBB012-Cutting-Board-12-Ounce/dp/B004G6X0J2

Based on the bottle, I'm guessing its this stuff.

Good grief... Amazon.com

Mineral Oil

Cheer and good luck.

Howard Products BBB012 Cutting Board Oil, 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G6X0J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KXdzDbB6W51AR

This worked well for me

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G6X0J2/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=thecu002-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B004G6X0J2&linkId=e2208e2513b91ddff53ce9fa8ae2581b

So it's the best of both worlds---protecting it and bringing out the rich colours I've seen. Just to be pedantically clear---you saying to use mineral oil for touch-ups, not more of the wax/oil mix? The first being a mix of oil and wax and the latter being just oil, right? Given the low cost per bottle, it would make sense to include it in the gift.

Your knife is made of excellent carbon steel that will hold an awesome edge, but which will also rust with little provocation.

After use, wash and dry by hand. Get some food safe mineral oil and apply a few drops to a paper towel or a rag. Wipe the oil on to the steel, and wipe it off. The thin remaining film will protect it from rust.

You can use the same oil on your wood cutting board, and on the wooden handle of your knife.

Don't let your knife rattle around in a drawer. A knife block is best, but anything is OK so long as nothing is going to bump up against the edge.

Bought mine on Amazon, make sure you get food-grade mineral oil

https://www.amazon.ca/Howard-Products-BBB012-Butcher-12-Ounce/dp/B004G6X0J2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TCA3FM37NDEKG405DJ8H

/u/Ihate25gaugeNeedles is correct on all accounts.

> Finish:
I'm assuming you must keep the wood natural, no stains. But to finish would you use something like this cutting board oil? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004G6X0J2

Yes, I use straight mineral oil. I buy it by the gallon and submerge the board in it completely for 10-20 seconds, let it drip dry and then towel off the excess. I then run some beeswax on the outside of all boards.

> Cleaning:
Let's say you just cut a bunch of chicken, you can't have the chicken juice and remains there and you can't put wood in the dishwasher... so how do you clean this? I often have the chicken sticking to my plastic cutting board if I try to clean by hand with a brush so I have to put it in the dishwasher. So how is this gonna get clean on wood?

I just use soap and water and a scrub brush to clean it. I do sometimes experience what you're talking about on the plastic boards. I think there's a lot more crevices on those and that makes it hard to clean. I've never seen this happen on our wood boards though since they're basically smooth.

> Maintain:
I'm assuming the board will take a beating over time, cuts, etc. Do you sand and re-apply the cutting board oil or what do you do?

Yup, depending on how often you use it and wash it, it will need to be re-oiled. We tell people when it starts to look "dry" just dump more oil on it and run it in. I've resanded ours once in the 3 years we've been using it.

I'm refinishing a butcher block countertop I got from craigslist. I would like the wood to be a bit darker than raw so I gave it a layer of "butcher block oil" which brought out a really lovely color after 8 hours of soaking in. See here.

I'd like for it to be a bit darker than what I think I can get from the butcher oil. Can I use any oil-based stain to help deepen the color even though it has some oil on/in it already? Maybe something like this stuff?

I imagine that since I used an oil that is to be soaked up by the wood, this "penetrating" wood stain should still work ok. I'm just afraid it might be blotchy due to the previous layers. I plan to hit the tabletop with some sort of finish once I get it the color I'd like. Thanks!

1. oil that chopping block! This stuff works great and will help keep your wood in good condition for years to come.
   
   
2. London broil :-/
   
   
3. Looks to me like the pan should have been a lot hotter. The middle looks over cooked and the outside looks under seared. This often happens when you are cooking at too low of a heat.
   
   
4. It appears your steak wasn't making full contact with the bottom of the pan. Through the middle of the steak you can see there is almost no sear at all.

That is not what "seasoning a cutting board" means or has ever meant. Seasoning a cutting board is when you take mineral oil and brush it onto your board to help seal it and prevent moisture from the meat you're cutting (or any bacteria it carries) from soaking into the wood.