Reddit reviews Hydrofarm Active Aqua Chiller, 1/10 HP
We found 7 Reddit comments about Hydrofarm Active Aqua Chiller, 1/10 HP. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Microcomputer control system and LCD display, very user-friendlyLarge refrigeration capacity (recommended 13-105 gal, 50-400 L). Rated BTU per hour 960Environmentally friendly (uses R134a) and surge protected, will automatically turn off in the event of a power surgeTubing size: 1/2" (HGTB50), 3/4" (HGTB75) (comes with two sets of fittings)Capable of chilling approximately 40 gal by 15 F, and 13 gal by 30 F (in 20 hrs)
only thing that worked for me
sure, i use an active aqua brand water chiller on amazon, when it was on sale for $270
here is the link : https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Active-Aqua-Chiller-10/dp/B0048IVBT4
EDIT: i found a better deal: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHHP71C/ref=dp_cerb_3?th=1
In the first part you seem to be describing a standard chiller operation with the PID controller built in (like one of these)
It all seems like you're over-complicating things. If I were to test something as small and dense as your beer example, I would likely get a styrofoam cooler and fill it with ice water. When I wanted to test the heat capacity of my object (I would have it in an isothermal environment ready to go), I'd strain out all the ice and plop the object in. After an hour or two I'd use a thermocouple to measure the water temperature. You could be more accurate by running the same test without the object to account for environmental losses. Heat capacity of water is pretty well understood with high accuracy so you'd just take the mass of your water (measured afterwards because you're scooping out ice), and multiply it by 4.184 and then multiply that by the temperature change (degrees C since we're using 4.184 kJ/(kg*K) and C and K are on the same scale, just different zero points). I used ice water as an example because you're basically guaranteed to be at 0C as long as ice and water are both present. You need to scoop out the ice because there is some energy required to change phases.
Maybe you are going to need to run this test over and over and need something more complex? If so, it sounds like you could probably just afford to buy a chiller that will circulate coolant/water without re-inventing the wheel. Some chillers will have heating and cooling, depending on the temperature set-point.
There's always options that cool the water directly such as Active Aqua Chiller
Not cheap, but cheaper than a whole house generator.
If you decide to sell your setup, I understand. Just trying to show people what some options are for emergency cooling... Best of luck.
Active aqua chiller 1/10 horsepower: http://www.amazon.com/Active-Aqua-Chiller-Refrigeration-Unit/dp/B0048IVBT4/
You need to buy the 1/2 inch hosing and water pump separately, which sucks. I really didn't want to buy this but my res temps were steady in the high 80s, so I didn't have much choice. This is also the purchase that turned this from a hobby to an obsession, since the unit doesn't fit inside the closet, my grow area has crept outside a little. The tomato plants doubled in size within two days of install.
For that size setup, I'd recommend this chiller. It's not too expensive, and it does the job. I used this exact one with my DWC setup a few years back. Now I'm using the chiller on my 35 gallon marine aquarium.
I have this one cooling a 40gal breeder, set to 66F. This means it turns on when the water gets to 69F and turns off when the water gets to 66F. It runs at least once an hour. Anybody who tells you that you don't need a chiller to keep axolotls better live in the arctic freaking circle, because to keep them without a chiller is basically animal abuse. Room temperature water is never going to be in the mid-60s, fan or no fan.