Reddit reviews iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy
We found 29 Reddit comments about iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm; Accuracy: 0.001" / 0.02mm; Range: 6"/150mmIP54 protection: Water drop and dust resistantUSB cable available separately.Meets DIN Standard 862; ISO certified manufacturing2 Years warranty
Mitutoyo is absolutely the best, but just in case you want to pickup a few calipers that are very near the same quality at budget pricing, I can highly recommend: iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM
I have purchased several of these for our engineering department and they are leaps and bounds better than other cheap units. The sliding action is smooth with no slop. The display updates very quickly. Accuracy and repeatability have been tested to be comparable to the Mitutoyos.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pLbZDbZK580M6
Had mine for about 2 years. It has been reliable and repeatable. I haven't put it on a calibration block set but everything I've used it for has fit together as expected.
Most cheap calipers are fine for measuring prints for accuracy. If you want to get something a little better than the cheapest but not spend too much, I'd recommend these. They're probably not more accurate than other digital calipers in the $20-$25 range, but the absolute origin feature makes them easier to use since you don't have to zero-out each time you use them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html (when on sale or with coupon for ~$10-$12)
http://amzn.com/B00INL0BTS
http://amzn.com/B00KDUD67G
30mm dia. base Source 510 from Stealthvape turned down to 25mm. Threads weren't damaged from being chucked in a 3-jaw. Used a carbide cutter and took light cuts, about 0.05mm per pass. Also wet sanded the top base 600-2500 grit (I should have started with a lower grit, still some tooling marks)
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/SOURCE-30MM-FLAT
/u/IsABot /u/vapescaped you guys want one let me know
A prior thread asking about 25mm 510s: https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5gnnbf/25mm_510_connector/
If anyone needs some digital calipers, these are great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ I was using some from Harbor Freight prior and was becoming frustrated with them. Started looking around and these were quite highly recommended and well reviewed. Well machined, few smooth action, maintains zero. Was considering dropping $200 on Mitutoyo calipers until luckily finding these
Twice your price range but I have these.
There is a great comparison video of several different calipers in the reviews. Some of which I think are in your price range.
>Harbor Frieght calipers
Whenever I hear/see someone using these, I show this alternative.
They're no B&S or Mitutoyo, but they are soooo much better than those HF jobs while being cheap enough that you can travel with them without (monetary) fear of them getting damaged/lost/confiscated.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_tu9KBbW7NBX32
I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers
There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.
Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs
If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.
OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this
Chisels: here
Japanese saw: this and this
Caliper: here
Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).
If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here
As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination
I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.
I started with a pair from harbor freight, but then decided I wanted something a little more substantial, so got these off of Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and moved the HF pair out to the garage. These iGaging ones do feel more substantial.
EDIT: I really suggest staying away from plastic calipers. There are metal calipers that are similarly priced and will last much much longer and are higher quality.
I usually recommend these from Harbor Freight because they do fractions:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
And these from Amazon because the quality is much higher for a very good price, but they don't do fractions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS
I use both depending on what room I'm in.
I've got these at work, they lay flat.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INL0BTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1517528088&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Digital+caliper&dpPl=1&dpID=51r2J68iW3L&ref=plSrch
This is the caliper that I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I wish I bought a 3mm hexdriver so that I did not have to use the hex key.
My biggest tip would be to pre-install or thread the screws in first when installing any screw to the frame. The threads need to be cleaned of the powder coat. This will make installing anything to the frame go much smoother.
Other than that use the online manual read the directions clearly and read the comments, they are very helpful.
Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.
And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.
This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.
One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.
As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die
As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?
And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.
This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.
All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.
Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.
Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.
Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.
Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.
Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0
Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.
Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.
I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.
When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.
Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!
I like the igaging stuff. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZQERAbVQDZTS9
It’s won a lot of caliper shootouts on YouTube.
Mitutoyo is the right answer. You can't go wrong there.
If you want a cheaper solution, I've heard good things about these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM
I've used many pairs of $10 calipers and sometimes they work fine. When they don't it's pretty disappointing. What might you waste/ruin by cutting something the wrong size? How long would it take to make back the extra $30? $100?
I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS) as well as a Mitutoyo (along with the piece of crap in the gif).
The iGaging is absolutely amazing for the price and feels pretty much the same quality as the Mitutoyo.
But without a doubt if you have some cash to splash, get the Mitutoyo Digimatic.
Funny coincidence... my <$20 caliper suffered a tragic "accident" in the shop today and is now NFG.
Here's a video that compares a bunch of digital calipers. If you don't want to spend $120+ on a Mitutoyo caliper, it sounds like the iGaging calipers are almost as good for less than half the price.
I just ordered the iGaging Absolute, expecting it to be decent.
Bought this one and works wonderfully.
Digital Calipers
So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.
If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.
been using and abusing these guys for years, and the batteries last forever
I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.
It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.
Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.
What WayGroovy said.
I picked up This Pair
They are pretty nice and affordable. I would stay away from the 20 dollar throwaways. They are more trouble than they are worth.
I use this model from iGaging. It's for home use so I didn't need to buy a Mitutoyo or anything but the 4.6 star reviews on amazon are well-deserved. I'm impressed with them.
I have some of their black body calipers and while I agree with you 100% I'm not sure they still cary them. At my store they now only carry the silver body and the one I bought ended up in the trash. It was really bad. You can get an igaging 6" caliper on amazon for $40.00. That's the route I've been going.
caliper
Electronic calipers are super useful too. A bit more than $30 but I really like these.
pair of calipers. pretty cheap on amazon and should be a standard tool for 3d printing.
here is a pair for $13 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ
personally I would go with something better.
These are well reviews and liked and come with a case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/
$40