Reddit Reddit reviews Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit and Centigrade Thermostat with Sensor 2 Relays ITC-1000 for Refrigerator Fermenter

We found 41 Reddit comments about Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit and Centigrade Thermostat with Sensor 2 Relays ITC-1000 for Refrigerator Fermenter. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Temperature Controllers
Temperature & Humidity Measurement
Test, Measure & Inspect
Industrial & Scientific
Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit and Centigrade Thermostat with Sensor 2 Relays ITC-1000 for Refrigerator Fermenter
🌟🌟【Two Modes】Have two relays. Switch between cooling and heating modes. Support °F/°C display.🌟🌟【Setting Value】Control the temperature by setting the temperature set value and the difference value.🌟🌟【Different Functions】Refrigerating control output delay protection, and temperature calibrating.🌟🌟【Alarm for Safe】 Alarm when temperature exceeds the limit or when sensor error.🌟🌟【Power Supply】 110VAC 50Hz/60Hz
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41 Reddit comments about Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit and Centigrade Thermostat with Sensor 2 Relays ITC-1000 for Refrigerator Fermenter:

u/DSNT_GET_NOVLTY_ACNT · 10 pointsr/Homebrewing

Don't do the open refrigerator thing, you will waste a ton of electricity and won't actually be able to temperature control even close to enough to lager with any reasonable degree of certainty. If I had to guess, leaving a fridge with an open door for a month will probably waste far more than $16.

Instead of wasting that $16 in electricity, you can get one of these, which is perfect for a fermentation chamber made from a fridge. A small amount of wiring work is required, but it's relatively easy.

If you aren't willing to invest $16 and an hour figuring out how to wire it together, I would suggest just letting it ride without temperature control (or maybe a swamp cooler or similar). Most lager yeasts will be fine in the low-mid 60s.

Edit to note: it's not too late by any means to get that temp control part now. You could start it warm and chill down in the refrigerator when you have the part, possibly even complete fermentation warmish and then stick in the refrigerator on its highest setting for a few weeks. Or you could start it in the refrigerator on its highest setting and let it warm up a bit more when you have the part. Leaving the fridge open is probably the worst choice you could make out of all the options above.

Double edit: If you don't want to mess with wires, you could get one of these, but it's more expensive. It's basically the same thing as the cheaper one, but with plugs.

Bonus fun fact edit: Refrigerators make the room warmer in general, but peaving the refrigerator door open will make it even warmer. You would be effectively making a really really ridiculously inefficient space heater.

u/Mill3241 · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

As far as cheap temp control, if you are somewhat handy you can get one of these. There are instructions to add an outlet to it like this otherwise this is plug and play.

u/TAOLIK · 6 pointsr/vandwellers

>Is the volt chart from Wagan Tech really correct?

Looks more or less close, I think a netbook would use more. The best way to find out is to check yourself with a killawatt.

>I think a trucker fridge or something designed for RVs would have a lower consumption.

You should look into a chest freezer conversion. It is very simple all you need is a thermostat controller, it is easily customizable. During the hot summer my outdoor chest freezer used 200 watts A DAY. Right now it uses about 10 watts a day because it's outside.

>What does 150AH a day require to support it? How fast would that drain a deep cycle battery?

Deep cycle batteries have different ratings for 20 hour periods. Example a battery with 150AH rating for 20 hours, would be able to support 150 Amp hours over 20 hours-meaning it could support 7.5 amps an hour. Which would translate to 90watts of DC an hour (7.512), OR 720watts AC an hour assuming inverter is 80% efficient(7.5120*0.8).

>24V deep cycle marine batteries are what I thought was gold-standard for van applications.

The gold standard is usually 12V battery systems, whether it's two 6v's run in a series or one 12v battery.

For more information I urge you to visit handy bob's site, which is a little harder to read but a wealth of knowledge.

u/nonothing · 5 pointsr/beerporn

I unfortunately don't have all the photos I took of the build. Thankfully google saved a few.

The fridge was delivered and I ripped all the shelves out.

I cut a little hole in the bottom of the fridge (the bottom 6" are empty space for the compressor, so this was just thin plastic) and wired up an ITC-1000. The original freezer controls only go 10F max. I also removed the defrost timer so this fridge is on manual defrost now, though I've had no freezing problems in well over a year. The fan is now on 24/7 instead of coming on with...the defrost? I cant remember how it originally turned on. You're playing with electricity here, be smart and safe and dont start a fire or die, or have a professional do it.

The back panel in the above picture stayed on, RIGHT behind it is about 3" of space for the evap and fan. Right under the evap I drilled 3 holes. 1 for the main CO2 line, 1 for the Nitro line, 1 small one for the fridge temp sensor. Eventually another one for the 5v for the arduino. They all came up through the little slit and had grommets for the sheet metal. They shouldn't be moving around, but the last thing I want is a cut line.

I bought a 36"x5" drip tray without a drain and 3d printed 3 brackets for mounting. Since it doesnt have a drip tray I want it to be mobile. The brackets have magnets in them so it can easily be taken off the fridge door and cleaned. I really didnt want to put any holes in the door except the taps.

I cut the shelves off the door but left most of the skin. The plastic helps seal the door seal AND it's holding in the plywood I used to replace the door. I have no idea the thickness of the plywood anymore but I did have to sand down a good 1/8" where the taps are so they'd fit. Any longer shanks and I'd be poking kegs, any shorter shanks and I'd be too short and need smaller plywood.

You can see above how the CO2 is routed and the temp sensor right in the middle of the fridge.

The top distributor goes to the top shelf, middle splits to both sides, the bottom goes to the bottom shelf. I honestly could have gotten away with 2 different pressures. I really don't change off serving pressure except for quick carbing a beer. Most of the beers I brew end up around the same carbonation level. Maybe when I need something crazy high/low carbed I'll be excited.

That's also the best photo I have of the finished product before it got a bit more messy like now. I have some 3D printed brackets that hold the lines in place on the side of the fridge.

I did have an issue with the fridge leaking all of its damn r134a out. There was a small leak by the evap. A bit late in the build for a replacement. Found the leak and JB Welded it shut. It was too close to the wall to braze and JB Weld has held for over a year now. Luckily I had done a car AC before and had the manifold gauge, vacuum pump, and fittings. I learned to braze on the quick connect, pulled vacuum, hit it with nitrogen to ensure there were no leaks (though it held vacuum as well), pulled another vacuum and filled her to spec with r134a. Been working like a charm ever since.

There is a raspberry pi running RaspberryPints with some cheap ass flow meters. The only changes I made were how many pulses on the meters meant a pint. I've been fiddling with it ever since. I'm sometimes off by a handful of pints on my kegs. Enough to get me close, but I'd like to dial it in without spending $60 on each freaking meter. How much beer is left in my keg is not a $60 problem to me.

u/alienwrkshop51 · 5 pointsr/Charcuterie

This. Is. Awesome.

I currently have a Monster cooler like this that is set up as a curing chamber with a simple temperature and humidity controller.

I would love to be able to integrate something like what you made into my setup. The data logging and interface are super nifty! Definitely let us know when/if you pull something together.

u/jmysl · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I'm BIAB, so that helps cut down on the space and equipment, but I'm looking at adding [240V Heating Element] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1), Inkbird Controller, and [a basket to make raising the grains a bit easier to manage] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXKJJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Which doesn't seem like too much of an investment to make my brewday a LOT shorter, and a bit easier.


edit: [alternative inkbird controller] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJZMWSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1). This is the one i am currently considering, but i don't know the real differences.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

Non-mobile:

u/Woodrow_Wilson_Long · 3 pointsr/electronics

I would replace that with an off-the shelf digital controller (like this super cheap model: http://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1452810523&sr=8-9&keywords=pid+controller)

I have no previous knowledge of capillary tube thermostats, but personally I find PID controllers can be tuned more easily to get the response you would like out of a system.

u/gonkey · 3 pointsr/sousvide

I have two cooler setups using this one: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6

I have a large one for large cooks, or meat, while using the small one for veggies, or a smaller cooks. They both work great. I use a tiny aquarium pump which will need to be replaced once in a while since they are not rated for heat and will wear out eventually. Mine have lasted about a year of weekly cooks. Have fun, build your own, and you'll probably learn something too! I use water heater elements for my heating element Get a hobby box for the temp. controller/wires, mount it on the cooler. I actually have a wire diagram I made and will supply you with a full parts list if you are interested. I integrated an external relay in my setup too, and it has it's own GFCI plug end on it for those times when you are not near a regular GFCI plug in a wall. Safety first around power and water! PM me if you want to goods!

u/smsjohnson · 2 pointsr/pics

I bought mine in Germany, but they have the same one on amazon.com.

http://amzn.com/B00OXPE8U6

There are quite a few with different brand names, but they are all made by the same company, mine was branded 'Tinxi'.

For the plug and connection [to crockpot] I just cut an extension cable in half and attached either end to the relevant terminals.

And I use a pump a little similar to this: http://amzn.com/B00NPJECXO.

The crock pot is only 200W so it takes a while to get to temperature, but you can use something more powerful like a rice cooker or start with hotter water.

It's great for making yoghurt in jars too.

Just need a better vacuum sealer, any suggestions?

u/AztexLA · 2 pointsr/cigars

I actually converted my mini fridge into a wineador. You'd want to invest in a ETC (temperature controller) to keep the temperature at an ideal level for your cigars. Make sure to get an airtight tupperdor so you get no condensation and a few bovedas to control the humidity. Try it out with what works best for you for a few days and then put your cigars in. Hope this helps!

u/m_c_zero · 2 pointsr/beer

This guy is for sale on Amazon right now for less than $15 and is in Fahrenheit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6

u/rcm_rx7 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Can I recommend a different thermostat? I think you would be much better off with an STC-1000, with a probe that can be immersed in the beer with a thermowell, or stuck on the side of a carboy/bucket. They are really cheap, and easy to wire. It needs 120v to power the unit, and then you can switch the input voltage for the fan with the built in relays.

If you ever wanted to add a heater it would be easy too.

The [Inkbird](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_spS8ub02194G2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_spS8ub02194G2) seems to be a pretty great option that has F instead of C

u/Gayrub · 2 pointsr/sousvide

Buy this. plug your induction stove top into it. You'll have to do a little wiring. It comes with a little temperature probe. Put that in your water bath. It will turn the power to you device off when you reach the target temp and back on when the temp dips below the target.

To make sure this will work turn on your induction stovetop, unplug it from the wall, plug it back in. If it heats up again after you plug it back in then it will work. If it doesn't heat up again then it won't work.

u/CranialFlatulence · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I'm looking to build my ferm chamber in the next several months. So far the only components I have are a mini fridge and this Inkbird Temp Controller. I was planning on using OSB sheathing for the walls, lined with foam board insulation, and throw in a 60 watt bulb for a heat source and perhaps a small fan to circulate the air.

I'm pretty handy. I do a lot of home/auto repairs myself so I imagine this will be a pretty simple endeavor, but what are some common pitfalls/mistakes that people make when building these things?

u/scotch_scotch-scotch · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

If you can splice a few wires yourself, here is a cheaper option for temp control. You would still need to buy a couple of extension cords, and a heating element (I use a light bulb in a paint can). Set up a search alert on Craigslist for a cheap fridge or chest freezer and you are in business. If you are looking to go super cheap, your best bet is to submerge your carboy about 3/4 of the way in water, add ice, and wrap a towel around the top of the carboy to encourage evaporation. You really have to stay on top of the ice though.

u/biersnob · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Here's a list of all the parts.

Project box:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BSRIO


Power Socket Plugs:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008J80J1A

Power Inlet:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00917Z96S

Temp Controller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OXPE8U6

I already had some wire and the crimp on connectors.

u/HoCoMD · 1 pointr/DIY

Thanks for the info. I was looking to add the extra relay because I have read that some devices draw more than 10A when they first turn on, which may cause a fuse to blow, malfunction in the STC-1000, and/or possibly a fire. These links describe what I am talking about:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f258/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-modifing-ssr-361644/

http://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/2bmp54/i_see_a_lot_of_keezer_builds_on_here_but_never/

This is the exact controller I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the label on the back:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/75per_img_7946-225x300.jpg

u/pokotok · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I assume not, but any idea if this would work in an Inkbird? Are internal boards the same, or different?

u/colinmhayes · 1 pointr/beer

Well you've got a very cheap option and a still cheap but slightly less so option. Lots of homebrewers use that second one for kegerators & fermentation chambers.

u/dilladog · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Inkbird's ITC1000 is basically the same as an STC and reads out in F.

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/electrical

These controllers work great. Be sure to get the correct voltage and C° or F° as you require.

u/phatlad · 1 pointr/Homebrewing
u/Kaot93 · 1 pointr/ElegooMars

You could try something like this in a closed Chamber.

build one for my FDM printer with a 220V version of this and it reaches 60°C easily. could definetly go higher i think.

A cheap temperature controller and you're good to go.

You could also just heat up the inside of your building chamber with a small version of this. This ensures a good cooling of any printer components.

u/cnash · 1 pointr/Cooking

Ziplock bags are fine, but don't skimp on them. Flimsy bags will get holes in them and ruin your food. And get the kind with the zipper, not the pinch-close.

If your apparatus is just a party cooler that you pour hot water into, then your thermometer can just be a cheap instant-read with its probe pushed through a cork. You'll need to check and adjust the water about every 20 minutes.

I do my sous-viding in Hefty brand freezer bags, in a part cooler, with a jury-rigged temperature controller made from an STC-1000, a cheap aquarium pump, and an immersion element. (Not those exact models.) Oh, and an outlet and outlet box I bought at Lowes, and the plug from an old fan, which I was later informed was not previously garbage.

Lessons learned: you'll burn out at least one heating element, and aquarium pumps are not reliable after your flimsy ziplock bag leaks meat juice into the cooler and gums up the impeller. Buy a spare of each.

Edit: Oh! and when you take the meat out, let it cool and dry off for a couple minutes before you finish it on the grill. You'll get a better crust and (very slightly) less overcooking around the edges.

u/MotherMGA · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Fridge's temperature controls are crap and incapable of controlling temperatures for ales, and inadequate for controlling temperatures for lagers or cold crashes.

You need a digital temperature control. You plug your fridge into it, you tape your temperature probe in the fridge, and you plug the control into the wall. Leave your fridge on the coldest setting and this will power your fridge on based on your set temperature to accurately control temperature within a couple degrees.

Complete solution: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Itc-308-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B01MDSWXY4/

Or you can do what I did and scavenge a computer cable and wall outlet and build one out of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6/

These are perfect for:

  1. Finish dropping the temperature after brew day to achieve perfect pitch temp.
  2. Controlling the bloom after the pitch
  3. Controlling the fermentation temp for both Ales and Lagers
  4. Cold crashing before you keg/bottle.

    As a bonus, you can flip these into heating mode, wire up an element and use it to control mash temperature in a recirculated mash scenario, or to just make perfect sous vide.
u/gugador · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Oh cool, thanks for that info!

The temp fluctuations are pretty normal for this thing. When completely stock they both jump around by ~4C. Not sure if it's a software or hardware thing.

What's really wild is if I monitor the hotend and bed thermistors at ambient temperature, they both "bounce" by a bit, but they bounce EXACTLY opposite; when the hotend moves higher than actual, the bed moves lower. The graph in Pronterface makes a pretty regular square wave, and the hotend and bed are inverse of each other almost exactly. It's pretty weird.

I use some D18B20 temp sensors on my Rasp Pi for homebrewing (beer) temperature control and those will only bounce around a fraction of a degree F.

Hell, I've built 2 temp controllers out of these suuuuper cheap Inkbird boxes: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit/dp/B00OXPE8U6 that come with an NTC thermistor. I can tape it to my hotbed and it's reading is correct and only fluctuates by about 0.5F

u/sauerkrautsoda · 1 pointr/winemaking

apfelwein, when fermenting you want to keep it at 20°, the crock pot is controlled by my stc 1000 Temperature Controller at that time it was 10° in the brewhouse, it also works for quark cheese.

u/vortex1324 · 1 pointr/ReefTank

Make yourself a temp controller with an stc 1000 or ranco. Cheap and effective. I used a lab thermometer to calibrate mine. Which was only off by 1 degree f when I received it. They are quite accurate and reliable for the price. I use the stc1000 in both mine and my girlfriend's tanks. They can be set to keep the tank plus/minus .3 degrees c. I also have 2 heaters. Each capable of heating the tank alone for redundancy. The best part is that you don't have to worry about the heaters getting stuck on and making fish soup, since the controller will turn them off when high setpoint is reached. I set the heaters internal thermostat to just above what I set the controller for, that way if it failed, the heaters thermostat would be a backup. Doing it this way saves a lot of stress on the heaters thermostat because it is always "on" not constantly changing, wearing it out, since they are made of bending metal.

You could even use the cooling outlet to turn on a light or sound device or a fan across the top of the tank as a high temp warning in the summers.

Stc1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_BjT9wbN9K5E8S

If you aren't the diy electrical type. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011296704/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YkT9wb8AS0GKX

u/vinberdon · 1 pointr/cigars

Actually, right on Amazon. There are a bunch of different types, make sure you get one that has the wiring you need. Temperature probes can probably be bought on Amazon as well. I'll check later today for the link to where I get mine...

 

If you're going the crock pot route, you won't need these, though!

u/ratZ_fatZ · 1 pointr/yogurt

All you need is the slow cooker and a temperature control unit like this one or if your mechanically inclined the ITC-1000, and plug in the controller then plug the slowcooker into the controller then set the controller to desired temp and walk away.

But remember, you don't want the auto slowcooker. You want one like this with just a 3 way dial.

I set my slowcooker to low and the ITC-1000 to 112° for 5 hours, remove the yogurt and stick in the fridge.

u/ctflora · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

You can get a cheap external thermostat that could help.

u/mr_hanson · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I'm planning on using an Inkbird temperature controller to regulate a heating element in a cooler used as a HLT. Will there be an issue if there is nothing hooked up the the cooling connections of the Inkbird?

u/prometheanbane · 1 pointr/food

No need.

All you need is one of these things and a crock pot.

Getting everything working requires a bit of handiwork and some wiring, but it's a half hour project that has many uses beyond sous vide. I initially made mine for homebrewing, but now I use it more often for sous vide.

Here's a handy instructional.

I've found that water circulation isn't necessary unless you're doing large cuts in a massive crock, but if it's something you require you can use a high-temp water pump from Amazon for a few bucks.

All said my sous vide rig cost me about 40 bucks, plus putting the controller together was a fun project. I also use it to save money by controlling my fridge's temperature more precisely, control traditional crock meals more accurately, and to keep my space heater from over-heating my room.

Edit: I should have linked this: Inkbird ITC-1000

The other one only allows either cooling or heating at any given time as opposed to both at once. This other model is more versatile (though admittedly it won't make a difference for sous vide).

u/Sistarrrrrrrr · 1 pointr/arduino

I use this temperature controller to control my 3d printer temperature [INKBIRD ITC-1000] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6), maybe this is also suitable for you.

u/BoogerOrPickle · 1 pointr/firewater

I made a box out of 3" solid insulation foam(dense styrene). The fermenter sits on a base and there are two 1" pvc pipes that go up through the corners. The 5 sided top slides over these. Generally this will keep it warm, but if not I use an aquarium heater with a [$16 thermocontroller from Amazon](Inkbird All-Purpose Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit &Centigrade Thermostat w Sensor 2 Relays https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7TfjzbFJHYNNT)

Works great for letting those starches convert too

u/flukewhale · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I'm sorry, total noob here. Do you mean something like this and does this get wired directly into the mini fridge? I feel silly but I have no idea about any of this.