Reddit reviews Innovation Cooling Diamond 7 Carat Thermal Compound - 1.5 Grams

buy some IC diamond 7 http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8 it is really good and the break in period is very low, like 10 hours or something.

What's stopping thermal paste manufacturers from producing this?

Oh wait, it does exist
IC Diamond

Still working on my first tube of TX3.

My favorite skin product for palepalepale skin, it's great as foundation, concealer, and if you're not as pale as I am (and you're not!), it's a fab highlighter.

Ok, if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then having someone else do it is best. However, it generally isn't that hard if you take your time.

I use a Craftsman small screwdriver set like that one, and have for years. Yes, there are cheaper tools. But I happen to like these.

There is a guide on how to tear into your machine, available right here.

It will take you step by step what you need to take apart. Click on the Prerequisites for section "removing heat sink assembly." It will show you what all has to be torn down to get to that part, and remove it.

Then, clean the old paste off with a lint free cloth, and decent rubbing alcohol. I avoid 70% at all costs. I prefer my 99.9% stuff, but have used 80% when in a bind. Make sure it dries completely before you continue. Pure stuff dries very quickly, less pure can take some time.

Then apply the new paste as a thin line about the length of a grain of rice. Don't smear it, try to spread it, or anything else UNLESS it is specifically designed for that (liquid metals come to mind). Then, reassemble. Be careful to ensure the heat spreader is attached evenly, with appropriate pressure.

Undervolting allows you to reduce the heat of the chip by running at voltages lower than it was designed for. Ideally, this shouldn't have to be done. Assuming a decent paste job, you won't. If you do find yourself in the position where that needs done, then use Intel XTU to adjust the voltage in small increments, and run Prime 95 in the background to monitor the results. If the machine becomes unstable, or starts throttling, you went too far.

What you need:
Screw drivers

Lint free cloth (some people use coffee filters, or even paper towels)

Alcohol

Paste (I use IC7 Diamond these days. Works very well on my machines. Arctic Silver 5 is still decent stuff, as is Gelid Extreme. There are others, and I am sure someone else will chime in with their favorites)

Clean, static reducing/non static working environment

this stuff

it works good with laptops and is made for higher temps. also get you some canned air and blow the fans out.

If dusting it out entirely didn't solve your problem I highly recommend tearing it down entirely & replacing the thermal compound on the APU. Be mindful of the 16 heat dispersion pads on the memory chips encircling the APU (8 on one side of the main board & 8 below). Get yourself some good thermal compound & use quality solution to fully clean/prepare the surface of the APU. Some people may tell you to get higher end thermal compound than what I've listed below but I'm telling you truthfully, I've tried a bunch (including the higher priced stuff) & this works just as well. Replacing the thermal compound fixed my loud fan issues. I've since done this for several friends & none have experienced further issues.

Cleaner & Purifier

[Microfiber Cleaning Cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019O1RG9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469112524&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Small+microfiber+cleaning+cloth)

Thermal Compound

Edit: Formatting

These are just a few I'd recommend, but definitely do your research and see which one is best for your needs.

Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut

IC Diamond 7 Carat

Coollaboratory Liquid Pro

You've done most of the work already. Pick up some chem pads or very high percentage alcohol and cotton swabs, and completely clean off the old paste.

Get your favorite thermal paste, I use this, as at the time, it was about the 2nd or 3rd best temps besides $25 dollar tubes, but the last time I read up on pastes was years ago.

https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/

Pea shape has always been the preferred method, more recently, a small X has proven slightly better temps and coverage. IMO do anything but the spread method, it's terrible, and I don't know why it was ever a thing.

The VelociRaptor is overpriced and underperforms. Current 7200RPM HDDs are a fraction of the price and have just as high and sometimes higher read/write speeds. The only thing the VelociRaptor is really good at is seek times. You're better off spending $100 on a nice 1TB HDD and another $80-120 on a 128GB SSD like the Plextor M3P, Plextor M3, Plextor M5P, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, or Intel 520.

The 7950 outperforms the GTX 660 Ti at the same price. It competes with, and, according to HardOCP, beats the GTX 670.

I'd recommend the Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro over the Razer. It has better build quality and is cheaper. The only potential drawback is that it's a tenkeyless board.

Arctic Silver is a waste of money. Modern TIMs and the TIM that comes with any modern heatsink will perform just as well. In addition, they won't be electrically capacitive and have little to no curing time. AS5 has a 200 hour cure time. If you want a TIM, look at Phobya HeGrease, Prolimatech PK-1, or Innovation Cooling Diamond 7. They're the best on the market and perform several C better than AS5.

The Zalman ball cooler is overpriced and underperforms. It was great back when it was first introduced, but it's nothing special now. That and it usually requires a blood sacrifice. Look at the Xigmatek Gaia, Enermax ETS-T40 T.B. Silence, Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus, or Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo instead. They all perform better. If you want the best, look at the Phanteks TC14PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow or Silver Arrow SB-E, and Noctua NH-D14.

Lastly, for gaming, there's no reason to go with an i7 over an i5. They perform pretty much the same, with the i7 doing a hair better in some games because of the marginally bigger L3 cache, and with the i5 doing better in others since hyperthreading can sometimes hurt performance.

$8.97. You'd be paying a person $20-40 for literally squeezing a syringe. It is incredibly easy.

1. Find disassembly guide for specific laptop model. Unscrew hatch leading to processor/heat sink.
   
2. Remove heat sink and old thermal paste.
   
3. Put recommended amount of new thermal paste in a dot in the center.
   
4. Rest heat sink on thermal paste dot to evenly distribute it.
   
5. Screw heat sink and hatch back on.
   
   Optional: Unscrew hatch to the exhaust fan and clean out. If it isn't exceeding 85°C with load, there is no need for this step as there is no blockage.
   
   As a side note, most laptops normally run at under or around 80°C with load. This is normal and not an indication that something is wrong.

I recommend this IC Diamond thermal paste and this Samsung SSD.
If you still have any questions, don't be shy to ask.

Edit: The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo comes with thermal paste, but if you want a high quality one, grab the IC Diamond.

Don't they already use diamond paste as a coolant?

i'm getting the np9130 as soon as ivy bridge launches on monday. here's where i'm going with my laptop:

1. going 95% gamut matte type screen because it's not a pc where i can upgrade my monitor whenever the hell i feel like it. i intend on using this laptop for at least 3+ years and $95 isn't that much for a monitor upgrade. WORTH IT. KINDA
   
   
2. they basically use this to calibrate the monitor. it's retarded and not worth it unless you're a photographer and need to get true color representation on your screen. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   
3. i'm going for the lowest tier i7 just because i want a quad core. i run a lot of photoshop for web design stuff. idk what you're personally gonna need, but i5s are perfectly fine too unless you're really gonna be stressing out your computer. WORTH IT. KINDA.
   
   
4. if you're techy at all just get a tube of this paste from amazon: link and apply it yourself. i'm getting a larger tube just because i'm gonna upgrade my PC CPU cooler and need a new thermal paste. but if you're not tech savy at all, you should go for it. WORTH IT
   
   
5. isn't the 650M the only choice for you if you got with np6165? the main reason i'm going for the np9130 is because the user has the ability to upgrade graphics cards in the future. in the 6165, you have no access to the actual graphics card and cannot remove it yourself. so just be forewarned. NOT APPLICABLE
   
   
6. 8GB of RAM is fine. 750 GB hard drive is fine too. just depends on your personal preference. if you can afford more hard drive space, you should always get more. just upgrade hard drive space as much as you can without breaking your budget. WORTH IT.
   
   
7. get an SSD. boot times, program load times and all that other crap is SOOOO much faster. seriously. when you pop a squat on campus (or at work. or whatever) and flip open your laptop, it's nice to get your programs up and running in an instant. whereas waiting for 10 seconds for your hard drive to catch up as you're waking up from sleep mode is kind of annoying after doing it a few times. i'm not ordering my SSD from xoticpc/malibal/powernotebook/whatever. i'm just gonna get my own SSD from amazon/newegg/tigerdirect/etc because they always have better prices. i heard samsung SSDs and m4 crucials are the best price/performance at the moment. i'm gonna get a 128GB SSD. it's more than enough to hold all your boot files as well as your programs with a little bit of extra space to use for intel SRT (smart response technology) WORTH IT. DEFINITELY WORTH IT.
   
   
8. pirate it. so easy. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   
9. if you can't do it yourself, then you probably don't care enough about hardcore performance to want the overclocking. regardless, the excess heat (esp in ivy bridge) will reduce lifespan of core components for laptops. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   sorry for the brick of text. i thought it'd be better to be too long and thorough than to be too short and vague.
   
   tl;dr look at the WORTH ITs and NOT WORTH ITs at the end of each brick.
   

If your console is dust-free but still loud you might want to consider changing out your thermal pads and paste. I used these Fujipoly Ultra Extreme thermal pads along with IC Diamond thermal paste in my PS4 Pro (CUH-7015B) and it made a big improvement.

A lot of first-time builders believe that you don't need thermal paste. This is only true if you want to overheat your processor in 2 minutes. Make sure to get something like this if you're using a stock cooler.

I know 280x and 290's fairly well, but you have a lot of cards that I haven't personally worked with. That aside, the process is pretty much the same, it's just the settings that will differ. You should research the right voltages (out of the box and what others have used as undervolt) and then run through that process. There are a TON of resources for you to pick from... Here is a great series which lead to a ton more links on undervolting cards as well as the semi-official scrypt mining hardware comparison. Just find your specific hardware and try out some settings.


How to undervolt a card (in general, the process is the same, your settings will vary per card) (requires making a DOS bootable drive to run ATIFlash)


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/09/how-to-modify-video-bios-to-undervolt-gpu-in-linux/


How to make a DOS bootable drive:


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/04/how-to-create-a-dos-bootable-usb-drive/


Hardware comparison:


https://litecoin.info/Mining_Hardware_Comparison


Download VBE7


http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


Also to cool off your cards, buy some Arctic Silver or Icy Diamond and replace the stock paste on your GPU with some quality thermal paste.


http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8

OR


http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Grams/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394905207&sr=1-1&keywords=arctic+silver


Hope this helps!

ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.

Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.

Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.

If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.

Artic Silver 5

IC-Diamond

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Prolimatech PK-3

There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.

After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.

Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!

I normally use arctic silver 5, but I've recently switched to ic diamond and it works really good at transferring heat.
Here's a link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Carat-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526649924&sr=8-1&keywords=ic+diamond

I've heard that IC diamond is pretty nice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042IEVD8/?tag=pcpapi-20

I have done that. It's how I know the fans are a lot more often and louder now along with higher fluctuating temperatures from the CPU.

Should I also be reapplying paste? https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Carat-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ic+diamond&qid=1549906433&s=industrial&sr=1-3

There's one review that said he removed a fan (I did it for cleaning purposes too) and he said it got really loud until he reapplied paste.

Is this the one ?

Innovation Cooling Diamond 7 Carat Thermal Compound - 1.5 Grams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042IEVD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qX9mDbXH8B2EY

And one more thing. Is it better to spread the paste evenly with the tool which they might give or a small drop and then set the heat sink ?

Sorry about the questions 😅😅

I would go ahead and get a Z68 motherboard. There's really no reason not to, and it has more features that you can use down the road:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

The above board is one that I've worked with and had a great deal of success with, it's very nice, and has a longer warranty than the ASRock 2-year warranty.

It's interesting to hear that you can't run the HD audio for BF2 with your current board. I have a older Core i7 (Socket 1366) Gigabyte board based on the X58 chipset, and I'm able to play Bad Company 2 with all of the sound features available.

I have a feeling that the board above or even the ASRock will be able to handle the high end audio of most games, however if you're interested in a nice sound card (i.e. you have some nice speakers, possibly a surround sound setuo), I would probably recommend an HT Omega card, such as this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271001

But if you're gaming with two speakers, you're likely fine with the onboard sound.

For thermal paste, I recommend using IC Diamond thermal compound. This is especially helpful if you have not build a system in years: it has similar/slightly better performance than Arctic Silver 5, but is made of diamonds instead of silver, which means it is not electrically conductive. If heaven forbid you get thermal paste on something, it won't also risk being the source of a short.

You can get a tube of IC Diamond on Amazon.com through the company Platinum Micro here: http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-CARAT-GRAM-THERMAL-COMPOUND/dp/B0042IEVD8

Or from Xoxide, a very reputable cooling supplies retailer, here:http://www.xoxide.com/ic-diamond-7.html

Regarding a wireless card, simply put, a wireless card just adds to the cost and complexity of the board. The focus, until the very high end, is on performance per dollar. The vast majority of enthusiasts are slamming the $150-$200 board market, and most don't care if the thing has a wireless card as long as it's fast, reliable, has a good warranty, and is cheap. Once you get to the high-high end, folks are looking for very well rounded features, gimmick designs or other neat stuff that makes their build interesting on top of being very fast.

For your choice of SSD and input on that, please check this guide: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-ssd-caching,2966.html

Darn!

I used this brand: http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8

So, I should power down, remove the current paste, and try again? Is the thermal paste the most likely cause of the higher temps?

Also, when I booted, my computer immediately bluescreened. I am pretty sure that I had a compound issue of mother board being fried and my hard drives being fucked, but is there any chance the Blue screen is just from hardware upgrades? It does "Starting Windows" then immediate blue screen.

Sorry for all the add on questions!

Innovation Cooling Diamond is generally considered the best non liquid metal thermal compound in terms of temps.

Source: http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/thermal-compound-charts/benchmarks,155.html

EDIT: Oops, accidentally linked the GPU one instead of the index.