Reddit Reddit reviews InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz

We found 32 Reddit comments about InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sculpture Supplies
Sculpture Modeling Compounds
Craft Supplies & Materials
Arts, Crafts & Sewing
InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz
REUSABLE: Heat, mold, and use within minutes. Reheat to remold again and again.LOTS OF USES: Create custom grips, mounts, brackets, knobs, dials, and connectors without molds.HIGHEST QUALITY: We source the best ingredients from US and UK suppliers and package everything in our US locations to ensure the highest end quality to the consumer.
Check price on Amazon

32 Reddit comments about InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz:

u/Gundamnitpete · 17 pointsr/oculus

I built it so long ago that I don't remember the exact parts, but it was pretty simple.

They key thing I did was use hard boiled egg holders to hold the touch controllers. Basically you drop the bottom of your touch controller into this holder, then wrap your hand around the egg holder itself. Holding both the controller in the holder, and the holder itself.

The PVC parts are just 1' PVC pipe with a pair of PVC 90 degree elbows. You'll need something to cut the PVC pipe, a hacksaw works well, I used a dremel, or you can pickup a pipe cutter while you're on amazon

I also used one small piece of 3/4 inch PVC pipe wrapped in duct tape to hold the AR-15 stock onto the end. This is a luxury, but as someone who shoots real guns a lot, having a real gun stock on the end of it really makes a difference to your cheek weld.. So if you want dat real AR feel, you can pickup an AR stock right here.. All you need is the plastic stock, the tube and all the other stuff isn't required. I just warpped the 3/4 inch PVC pip in tape until it fit VERY snuggly into one of the 1" PVC elbows. I left it about 6" long, so that the rreal AR-15 stock would slide over it. I used a bunch fo tape around the 3/4" PVC pipe until the AR-15 stock very snuggly.

You will also need some 5 minute epoxy, and I used some instamorph. I used the epoxy to glue the egg holders onto the PVC pipe, and then wrapped the bases in electrical tape. Make sure you scuff up the PVC pipe before putting the epoxy on. I used a knife to scratch it up, and then some snad paper to really rough it up. This helps the epoxy hold.

I wrapped the base of my touch controllers in plastic wrap, then I heated up the instamorph and placed a bunch of it in the egg holder. Then I pushed the touch controller into the egg holder, so that the instamorph took the shape of the touch controller. DO NOT use epoxy for this.

After that, all you need to do is cut your PVC pipe to length and put the 90 degree elbows on there. The AR 15 stock is optional, not required.

I also recommend a sling, so that you can pop your hands in and out of your stock as need be. When your done with the stock, it'll just hold on the sling. And old cheapy rifle sling will work.

u/NobleOccum · 6 pointsr/funkopop

Buy this for all your Pops that don't stand. We have over 900 Pops, and this is the best thing to use that we've tried.


u/Karter705 · 5 pointsr/gaming

Honestly, the biggest thing is having the right tools. My friend is a circuit board engineer and he let me use his workshop which saved me days. From a technical perspective, nothing here is too difficult -- the tricky parts are in the details, like wiring up the original power switch and reset switch to work with the Raspi global input/output and somehow wiring up the LED light, but these things aren't really necessary for it to function, just added flair. Apart from that, you literally just throw the img file onto a micro sd card, put that on a raspi, mount the board to something and you're pretty much done.

That said, I did discover that this stuff is effing awesome.

u/pierogisandwich · 5 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

Bro, I had a 99 Maxima with those exact same keys... both copies of the key broke the same way. I just got some moldable plastic like Instamorph and bridged the gap on the key. Sucks though... you drop those keys once and boom.

u/FamilyHeirloomTomato · 4 pointsr/LifeProTips

InstaMorph is pretty much the same thing except it doesn't expire and is less expensive. (I haven't actually used either one, so I could be wrong...)

u/congenitallymissing · 4 pointsr/Dentistry

i had a patient that made his own denture that ive wrote about before. it was a nightmare. he had nonrestorable dentition and needed full mouth edentulation and denure fabrication. he couldnt afford it and disappeared for months. then on a friday at 430 he showed up as an emergency on my schedule. he used these beads that he bought off amazon that they make hollywood masks out of and stuff. i guess you heat it up to make it moldable? so he heated it in his oven and then shoved it in his mouth. it bonded to all of his tissue and remaining teeth. he had it in his mouth for 3 days before he had the courage to admit he needed help. i had to try t oget him numb under it (which was crazy difficult) and section it surgically. when it finally became removable, it brought teeth and tissue with it. he needed bone and tissue grafts, residual root tip exts, and a denture made afterward. all and all it ended up being way more expensive than if he would have just had regular ext and dentures made. this was maybe 5 years ago. i had taken a ton of pictures for liablity reasons at the time. but since then ive moved across the country and opened my own practices, so im pretty positive i dont have the pics anymore

edit: im pretty sure he used a material similar to this ... it was definitely all white and looked more like a mouthguard than a denture

u/bambooclad · 4 pointsr/wicked_edge

I've been thinking of making one for myself...


Moldable Plastic


u/lag051183 · 3 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

Sugru or moldable plastic. Save what you don't use for another fix.

u/Pseudo_Prodigal_Son · 2 pointsr/3dprintingdms

Yea, I broke some off its fingers taking the supports off my prints of this model as well. And really your print looks as good as mine does. Maybe you could slow print speed down a little more, to like 1500 mm / min, and get the remaining fingers to look a little more round.

I use a product off Amazon called InstaMorph to mold replacement parts for stuff that I can't just glue back together.

u/c4ptainmorgan · 2 pointsr/battlebots

Have you ever played around with this?

It's a plastic that turns clear, sticks to itself and gets a texture similar to silly putty when you put it in 55 degree Celsius water. Once it cools, the plastic hardens and is actually pretty durable. I made a cone shape like a party hat and smashed it with a hammer a few times and it flexed but sprung back into shape immediately. The plastic is remoldable if you just heat it back up. You could mold it into any shape or thickness you want, and it is actually pretty strong.

u/revjjones79 · 2 pointsr/wma

One of my guys make tips out of a moldable plastic.

u/Camelregularfresh · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Thrift store or craigslist would probably be your best bets.

Depending on your school, you might be able to get some pieces on loan from a theater department?

For adding details on your costumes and accessories, maybe ask around and see if a school/library/local hackerspace can get you access to a 3d printer. If all else fails, a ten dollar bag of thermoplastic and some spare time can go a long way for making/modifying props and adding details at a super low budget.

As a side note, thermoplastic is also a lifesaver for building/repairing weird ass mounts, accessories, and holders for shit at the last minute.

u/skep-tiker · 2 pointsr/Nerf

One Idea I have had for this was the usage of products like Gorilla plastic or InstaMorph to create an ergonamical Grip espacially designed for my Hand, like Tournament Guns are having it.

u/anonanon1313 · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

Another great material for repair is Instamorph:

InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz

u/mutepenguin · 2 pointsr/yokaiwatch

I was working on something like this, but I kind of gave it up in favor of cooler projects... my ideas were:

  1. Simply put, instead of holes mounting in nylon nuts, and using the corresponding bolt heads as the nubs (nylon so it didn't scratch up the switches)


  2. The less complicated but not as cool method, using thermoplastic. Thermoplastic is a plastic that is moldable with heat, so heat it up, form small balls, and stick them partway in the holes, with a bit sticking up to form the nubs. When you want to switch it just pop it in some hot water, and they get soft again.
u/TimLParis · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Instamorph is also great stuff. You soften it in boiling water and it is workable like silly putty until it cools. Repeat as often as necessary to get it right.

u/AdjustableCynic · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Nice! I did the whole thing at 250%, and yes, the ribs were terrible. I ended up using a spray lacquer in several coats on them, and they were still fragile... I also used some of this with the black color pellets to match my Black PLA, to reinforce some areas like the knees and the neck joint where it connects to the head.

u/ezincuntroll · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Get some water-moldable plastic like this stuff:

Mold some face bases, and pour a resin of your choice in. You can cut up the bases to form larger shapes or sections to glue onto big bases. The results look pretty good with a little green stuff and paint

u/xtremepado · 1 pointr/howto

You could make a custom extension using a moldable thermoplastic like instamorph. You soften the plastic with a hair dryer or by submerging it in boiling water and then you can form it into whatever shape you like.

Just be sure it's up to code, as other people in this thread have mentioned.

u/Phantom_Scarecrow · 1 pointr/cosplayprops

I bought 3 different ones this one actually shoots darts, so its mechanism is pretty sturdy. The one I used was [This] ( cheapie. It has a working mechanism, but I didn't need it to function, so I only used the hammer, frizzen, backplate, and trigger guard, then modified them with thin, homemade Worbla. (To make metal-smooth Worbla, mix [Instamorph] ( with a small amount of ordinary flour. Put it in a glass pan and heat it in an oven until the plastic gets soft, then carefully mix them together and knead until evenly combined. It's smoother than real Worbla, which uses wood fibers as a filler, and a LOT cheaper!)

u/sparhawk817 · 1 pointr/StonerEngineering

As this is just the chamber portion, I recommend getting a good chunk of a thermoplastic like (InstaMorph

Or you could maybe use a modelling clay. I would go with a cook gold colour or something, and then wrap a design around it, partially for strength, and partially for looks.

u/bigchastity · 1 pointr/chastity

I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.

u/katechized · 1 pointr/sailormoon

Molding plastic is your friend.

u/acr_vp · 1 pointr/specializedtools

This stuff is awesome for this exact use InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 6 oz

u/aphrodite-walking · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This item may not seem very fun but it's used to make something super fun and awesome! My family and I go all out on halloween and decorate our house so it looks awesome! The final touches of course are our costumes. This year I'm planning on making a full mouth piece of pointy teeth. I already have the material to make the teeth itself but I need this to make the mouth piece so they stay in my mouth. It basically makes dentures haha they will look sort of like these. Oh and it's $9.99 :) Sunday Funday

u/Renz2LK · 1 pointr/cosplay

I know the feeling. Once I did my first foam build, I wanted to do more and more; not just for cons too! Also, it's never too late to add additional details or weathering to an existing costume.

Casting is a whole other world that I've only done a couple of times, w/out huge success unfortunately. So I've stuck to more time and budget friendly alternatives like foam clay and instamorph. For me, I found that foam clay was good for quick shapes and I could easily detail with a wood burner and dremel. As for instamorph, I've used this sparingly cause it involved being quicker moulding the plastic and having to use a more controlled dremel technique for adding details. BUT, its benefit is that it hardens nicely and will withstand more.

u/tangbang · 1 pointr/goodyearwelt

I had considered doing a plaster mold of my feet, then filling it with something like this thermoplastic so I'd have 3D models of my feet. Then just sending that off to manufacturers and asking if they'd see what size would fit those feet the best.

Never got around to it, though. Plus, I'm pretty sure everybody would think I'm really, really weird (not that they don't already).

u/coherent-rambling · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could modify your mouse with something like ShapeLock or Instamorph. It's a plastic called polycaprolactone which you can soften in near-boiling water and hand-mold into anything you want. When it cools, it turns into a hard, sturdy, paintable plastic.

u/thicklypadded · 1 pointr/chastity

You can make it effectively solid, which will make it a lot more comfortable on your skin, especially if you want to wear for a while. Look for a product called instamorph. It's basically just little plastic beads that melt when put in hot water.

Melt a bunch of it and roll it into a cylinder about the diameter of a pencil. This way you can easily remelt it if necessary. Also put your ring in hot water so that it warms up a bit. Once both are good and hot, work the instamorph liberally into the groove; you want to have it spilling a little out of the groove. Be sure to push plastic into any air gaps.

Do one side, then melt more plastic and do the other side. Then put the whole thing in cold water for a while to cool.

All that's left now is to sand away the excess plastic and then polish it smooth. Start with a coarse grit, like 60 or 80, and get it pretty close to the shape you want. Then just use finer and finer grits to do your successive shaping and smoothing. A pack of different fine grits like this should be pretty good for what you need.

A few other thoughts:

  • Be sure to round the edges slightly.
  • Lay the sand paper on a flat surface and move the ring against the paper to get the front and back really flat and consistent.
  • Wrap some sand paper around something round to do the inside of the ring.
  • If your cage came with extra rings that you don't think you'd ever use, you can practice before committing to modifying the one that fits.

    I did this modification to my ring and it was like a whole different product. I couldn't go more than a day or so before my skin got pressed into the groove and became really tender. Now with a little lotion I don't have any problems down there from the ring.