Reddit reviews Intel Core i3-4130 3.4 3 FCLGA 1150 Processor BX80646I34130
We found 12 Reddit comments about Intel Core i3-4130 3.4 3 FCLGA 1150 Processor BX80646I34130. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
LGA 1150, 3.4GHzCore i3-4130, Dual-CorePower: 54WHeatsink and Fan includedCache: 3MB
Hey, welcome to the world of PC building! I'm gonna type out a lot of stuff for you, and hopefully it helps. To start out with, here's a build for you :)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £185.75 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £58.99 @ CCL Computers
Memory | *Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | £45.06 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £67.98 @ Eclipse Computers
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 2GB Mini Video Card | £116.99 @ CCL Computers
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | £41.05 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £51.60 @ CCL Computers
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit | £83.62 @ More Computers
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £651.04
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 22:08 GMT+0000 |
CPU - The CPU is the "brains" of your computer, it does almost all of the computing (with a few notable exceptions, like in gaming) in your computer, and is the biggest pain to change out except for maybe the motherboard, so you typically want to get the best CPU you can during the first round of your build. There's a few things to consider when selecting a CPU, the most straightforward of which is clock speed, which is where the term "overclocking" comes from. The clock speed of a CPU is how fast it can do calculations, and this is measured in cycles per second, or Hz / GHZ.
Overclocking a CPU is when you take a CPU and force it to compute faster than it does coming out of the factory, and is only possible on certain models. The one I selected for you, the i5-6500, is not overclockable, denoted by the lack of a "k" on the end of it, while other models such as the i5-4690k, the CPU I have, can be overclocked.
The next thing to consider is the number of cores in a chip (CPU). You can think of the number of cores as the number of concurrent operations your computer can run, for the sake of simplicity. This works for times when you want to say "Hey computer, do these six math problems," so that if you have a single-core it'll take six times longer than a six-core CPU, but a much more common scenario is when you want to ask your computer "Hey, can you do this twelve-part math problem for me?" This type of scenario comes up a lot in gaming, and if the task can be broken up among the different cores it's referred to as parallel processing.
The i5 series has four cores, which is currently the recommended amount for gaming. I got by for a few years with two, but as technology improves, devs will learn to better utilize it, and now I wouldn't really want to build a "gaming rig" with anything less than four. I had an i3-4130, which as we now know is a dual-core, non-overclockable CPU.
There's more to consider when it comes to selecting a CPU, but those are the main points. If you want to learn more I'd be more than happy to share.
Motherboard - If the CPU is the brains of the computer, the motherboard is the central nervous system. Everything plugs in to the motherboard, and so you don't want to get a super cheapo board because if your motherboard goes up in smoke, your whole build might be torched. This tends to be truer nowadays of power supplies, but still applies.
The one thing you need to know about motherboards right now is that they come in a few different sizes. Here's a picture of the main sizes, or "form factors": EATX, ATX, Micro-ATX, and Mini-ITX. As you scale down, you tend to lose features, but also reduce cost. For that reason, I've selected a good-quality Micro-ATX motherboard. You can look up more specifics on what you can and can't do with the Micro-ATX form factor on your own.
Memory - What PCPartPicker calls "memory" is often referred to as RAM, or Random Access Memory, like the Daft Punk Album. RAM is like a super-fast hard drive that wipes itself every time your computer turns on. This is useful, for example, if you told your single-core computer to add 2 + 2, and then add 6 to that. Instead of writing to a slow (by comparison) hard drive, it'll tell the RAM to remember "4" when it's done computing 2 + 2, and then ask for what it just told the RAM to add 6; CPUs have no (except for the cache, but we'll ignore that) memory on their own, and so every persistent task you want to run (like Spotify, or your web browser) is going to need a certain amount of RAM to operate efficiently. If you don't have enough RAM, your computer will slow to a crawl. 8GB is more than enough for what you're gonna be doing, but not so much that we're wasting money.
Storage - There's two types of storage that you can use in a computer nowadays, there's Hard Disk Drives (HDD) and Solid State Drives (SSD). HDDs work like really fast record players, the have disks that spin (called platters) and a needle that will read or write data to them in the form of dimples or not dimples. These are limited by the speed of the disks, which for consumers tend to peak at about 72,000 RPM. SSDs, on the other hand, use the charge states of atoms to represent data. This is much faster, as you can read the entire disk in a single pass (theoretically).
On the other hand, SSD technology is much newer and much more expensive per gigabyte, so a fairly common strategy in high-end builds is to have a 250GB SSD for the OS and frequently used programs (Spotify, Office, Chrome, Overwatch) and a much larger HDD, usually on the order of 1TB or 1000GB for larger file storage for things that don't need to be accessed very often (like raw video data). The reason people put their OS and frequently used programs on SSDs is because SSDs are so much faster. If RAM is like a maglev train, an SSD is driving a car, and an HDD is like riding a bicycle.
One significant decision I made with this build is that I decided your needs would be better suited by a small SSD instead of a large HDD. You're only going to have 275GB of space on this computer! I made this decision because I think for someone with needs like yours i.e. mostly trivial (sorry) office work and some light gaming, you don't need much storage space, so it's much more important for your computer to be fast. If you feel like 275GB isn't enough, you can swap it for a much larger 1TB HDD, like a WD Blue drive, at the price of it being much slower.
Video Card - This is the most important component for gaming. The video card contains a specialized CPU, called a Graphics Processing Unit, or GPU, which specializes in displaying images fast, well, and repeatedly (and also some other things like bitcoin mining). If you want to play overwatch on PC, you need a graphics card.
I realize this build is about fifty pounds over budget. Here's where I would cut back if I were you, but I'm gonna argue my case: the video card I have selected for you always hovers around £120, but it's significantly better in performance than the next cheaper graphics card(s):
Look at the top chart on this page. The second-from-the-top bar is the GTX 1050, with an average Overwatch frames-per-second of 93, and a minimum of 73. The second-from-the-bottom card is the RX 460, which is the next cheapest graphics card, priced at around £100, which has an average FPS of 64, and minimum of 50. Most cheap monitors nowadays have a refresh rate of 60Hz, which means anything below 60FPS you're going to notice as stuttery and uncomfortable, which is why I'd recommend the 1050 for you; it's the minimum you need to play Overwatch on Ultra settings without any stuttering and lag.
Case - Sleek looking Micro-ATX case. So long as the case has adequate cooling and can fit the form factor of the motherboard you've selected (Micro-ATX, in your case), the rest of it is basically just looks. This one is a fairly cheap well-built case that's not too expensive.
Power Supply - Power supplies are really important to get right, because a bad power supply will quite literally set your whole build on fire. This unit is well-reviewed, and at a pretty low price, as well. Your computer is estimated to draw only 200 or so watts from the wall at peak usage, and this unit can supply up to 450 watts.
Here's a solid Intel option for this budget— basic motherboard, excellent CPU for current-gen games. It will have trouble if you start stacking too many intensive Minecraft mods, but otherwise it'll tear through the games you're asking about. The next card up from the R7 260X that people like to suggest is the GTX 750 Ti. It won't show much benefit— you'd really have to go all the way to a GTX 660 before it makes sense.
jbe1114's Entry Build
| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i3-4130 3.4 3 FCLGA 1150 Processor BX80646I34130|amazon|$123.41|
|video card|Gigabyte R7 260X GDDR5-1GB 2xDVI/HDMI/DP OC Graphics Card (GV-R726XOC-1GD)|amazon|$119.99|
|ram|G.SKILL NS Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-1333C9S-4GNS|newegg|$38.49|
|motherboard|MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$48.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR CX series CX430 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$44.99|
|case|GIGABYTE GZ-F5HEB Black SECC Steel / ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case|newegg|$29.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.60|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$99.28|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $585.73|
(Learn more and customize this build on KittenBoxes.com)
You can hop in there and play around with what some sensible upgrade/downgrade options are— I'd start with more RAM, which you could always do at any point down the line. Speaking of upgrades, this base can technically support upgrades all the way up to an i7 CPU and GTX 770 video card, though you'd be wise to upgrade the PSU as well at that point.
If you have any questions or feedback, I'll be around.
Intel Core i3-4340
MSI H81I Micro ITX Board
Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Case
I had an unused 4GB stick of RAM and a 300W PSU and was able to put this system together for about $230. The advantage to the case I chose, was it can fit a full size two-slot video card in it. That means it can fit pretty much every video card ever made in it. I just intend to stream games from my desktop for now, but I was trying to plan ahead. If SteamOS (and Linux as a gaming platform) really takes off, I'd drop an actual video card in it.
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394206419&sr=8-2&keywords=intel+core+i3
with 4gb and you are good to go.
Sorry! i3-4130 no K! This one:
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Professional PC builder/technician here. I monitor the market's prices all day, every day.
If you want a temporary and affordable upgrade, your motherboard is running on the AM2 socket. Check your motherboard's model number (Usually in between the PCI slots) and look up CPU compatibility. Assuming you're not running some crappy E-Machine, your socket shouldn't be integrated, and you can pick up something like an AMD Athlon X4 and have a significant boost in power.
If you're looking to fully upgrade, pick up an LGA1150 motherboard. If you want quality and don't want to completely break your bank, go with MSI. They're an awesome mix between affordability and features. For a processor, most i3s on that socket are pretty damn powerful, and cheap. 120 bucks will buy you enough power to do -anything- that 450 you have there will need. If you want long-term, pick up an i5, about 220 bucks will take you miles away from the CPU you have now. The i7 is endgame, it's worth it if you can afford it, but not necessary by any means.
Do not waste your time picking up any motherboard older than an LGA1150. They're the same price as the older LGA1155s, unless you're buying used. Don't buy used mobos, more often than not you'll regret it.
The last thing to consider is your power supply. You're making a serious upgrade with a new processor and mobo, and you need to take power into consideration. Since you seen new to this, Let's make it simple. Google "Power Supply Wattage Calculator" and type in your specs. Go 150 watts above that, spend a lot of money on it and get something nice. Your PSU is your computer's heatbeat, you don't want it failing and killing everything else you have. Buy a nice one the first time, and it will last years and years. Try and save 25 bucks by going off-brand and lower watt, suffer possible thousands of dollars in damage depending on what you have in there.
Edit: I forgot to mention, You're going to be stepping up from DDR2 to DDR3 ram. Don't go too crazy on ram, it's all pretty similar on the base levels. Corsair makes some nice sticks, Patriot does fine and affordable but you really need to look up compatibility with it, and Crucial makes some nice stuff that's affordable. If I were to build a low level affordable PC today, my baseline would sit here:
CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397850929&sr=8-1&keywords=i3
Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851005&sr=1-2&keywords=lga1150
RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KHX1333C9D3B1K2-8G/dp/B004DDI0IE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851050&sr=1-1&keywords=DDR3+RAM
PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B008RJZQSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851110&sr=1-2&keywords=power+supply
For the sake of maintaining a cheap build, you can use the heatsink that comes with the processor. If you're feeling moderately fancy, just grab something cheap like this, they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851211&sr=1-1&keywords=LGA+1150+heatsink
Re-use the optical drive from your old PC, re-use the fans. If you need cables, use monoprice.com
I have an i3-4130 I need to get rid of. Purchased in 4/2014 and ran in my desktop at stock. Great little CPU actually. $70 shipped?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EUUKVXM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cool, I might go with the asrock after all. Paired with this guy maybe.
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM
how does this one look? Also, does i3 vs. i5 make much of a difference?
Change the processor for an i3-4130. Faster and only a few bucks more at $120, not to mention you have an upgrade path to a Core i5/i7 if you want later. Or, if you can, budget get an i5-4590 and you get a quad-core.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EUUKVXM/?tag=pcpapi-20
With that obviously comes a change of motherboard, and the best one for the price is the MSI B85-G41. It costs $70.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130699&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Changing that TN panel monitor for an IPS model only costs $5 more and gets you a screen that looks a lot more elegant, has much thinner bezels and because it's IPS has much better viewing angles, better contrast ratio, and better color reproduction. The monitor is something you use every single time you use the computer, so don't skimp on it.
http://slickdeals.net/f/7215282-hp-22xi-21-5-1080p-1920x1080-ips-monitor-110-with-free-shipping-at-shopping-hp-com
Corsair AF series fans are very good, there's no denying that, but honestly there's quite a good amount of fans that are better for the money. But if you MUST have purple LEDs, they're okay. For something functional, Rosewill Hyperborea 140mm will push a lot more air (90CFM vs 57CFM) and they're also 4-pin PWM and don't use cheap sleeve bearings so while not silent they are relatively quiet (I have them). There's also the 120mm version that pushes the same amount of air. $13 for 140mm, $10 for 120mm. Honestly if you're on a budget I'd say to spend more on stuff that's gonna make your games run better and your PC run cooler, but if you'd rather spend it on making it look flashy that's fine too.
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-ROCF-11004-Hyperborea-120mm-Case/dp/B006DKEQV0/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07XK7TFAF1V50CH4FE4S
As for the case, there's really no other one that has that combination when it comes to color, but there are better options for the money. If you want a mix of both it looking flashy and having good features there's the Rosewill Patriot for $60. It comes with four blue LED 120mm fans to the two on the Bitfenix, meaning you could also buy two fans instead of four. It also comes with a side panel window if you wanna look at your components.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147169&cm_re=rosewill_patriot-_-11-147-169-_-Product
The graphics card you should definitely change as there's much better options for the money. For example there's the Radeon R9 270 which will give you performance within 10% of the GTX 760 for only $160 and will stomp on the 750 Ti, meaning on most demanding games you can run at High settings instead of Medium.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202090&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
The keyboard you should change. You can get the Monoprice Cherry MX Blue for $51 on sale, saving you $40.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=114&cp_id=11401&cs_id=1140102&p_id=9433&AID=11064683&PID=4485850&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11064683&utm_term=Slickdeals+LLC-1122587
As for the mouse, I know it's a great mouse, but there are also cheaper options that will give you the same options. Not from Logitech themselves, though, obviously. This one has 4.5/5 reviews on Amazon, has weights, on-the-fly DPI buttons, and 12 macro buttons. Only costs $37 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Perdition-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-profiles/dp/B00GU8W5AE/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1411949015&sr=1-1&keywords=gaming+mouse
As for RAM, you can pick up Patriot 2x4GB DDR3-1600 for $73 at Newegg and that will do the trick nicely.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220836&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Any questions let me know.
I def do NOT think consoles are dying or the PS4/XB1 sucks--I wanna buy both of them, I love certain console games. But they are definitely falling behind the pack in terms of raw performance/price.
I don't know about the $400 pricepoint that some people are bringing up because no one buying a PS4 is spending $400. They are spending at least 40-60 bucks on top of that to get games. Plus you need PS+ for online gaming so tag on another $50/yr.
Even if you went for a lower priced PS4, you're still throwing out close to $500 bucks and then some. So let's be fair:
$500
Let's see, by my math, i broke the bank with a grand total of 574. (assuming I didn't forget anything..I hope!) Aw rats. Well that's assuming you couldn't get your hands on Windows in some way or another...whistles Hmm what? nothing to see here. Of course, this is also assuming you don't buy anything on sale--which anyone who has built a PC knows, you can get so many rebates on all this stuff if you buy it at the right time.
But wait, I don't need to shell out $50 bucks a year just to play my games online?And this system will out-play the PS4/XB1? (by my speculation) The best part about this, if I gave myself another 100 bucks (like say in comparison to XB1), my build will get that much better. I could splurge on 16GB ram and a slightly better motherboard. Not to mention I can now use any input device I want--Xbox/PS4/PS3/mouse and keyboard--you name it.
There's no way this system will play games like Far Cry 3 or crisis on ultra, but neither will any console. Side note, I built a PC almost 3 yrs ago which cost me $700--thanks in part to living next to a microcenter (woot woot). It will run laps around 'next gen' systems.
Excuse me for my lack of knowledge, but something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408368754&sr=1-1&keywords=i3+core+processor and also, if I change to the I3, will I need to change the other stuff. I mainly used all the stuff from the video as a base to go off of, and as a good guide to building my pc. If I had the exact stuff he had, then I could build it easier right? Also do you suggest a different motherboard?