Reddit reviews Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter

Yep, I use a paintball tank to push beer when tailgating at college football games.

EDIT: In my experience it is more expensive to push kegs, I can get 5 lbs of CO2 for $14 in my big tank or 1.25 lbs of CO2 for $5 in my paintball tank.

This adapter will allow you to connect a standard regulator designed for larger tanks to a paintball tank.

• Regulator-$60
  
  
• 24 oz paintball tank-$23
  
  
• Paintball to CGA-320 adapter-$10
  
  
• Airline tubing-$7
  
  
• Diffuser-$12
  
  Total for everything is $112 not including tax.
  
  I use this regulator and the needle valve is a bit touchy, but its solid and works well enough. The solenoid has never stuck either. You can set it and forget it.
  
  People are going to call out using airline tube vs CO2 proof tubing. CO2 proof tubing is completely unnecessary at the pressures what we work at and isn't very flexible, so I like the airline better.
  
  This is my favorite diffuser because it has a halfway decent check valve, it has a build in bubble counter, and you can remove the ceramic disc without taking everything apart. I have 4 of these running in different tanks and 2 have had zero issues. The other two had small leaks that I sealed with gorilla glue and they've worked perfect since.

Regulator (it says not for aquarium use but it’s perfectly fine. Read the reviews, plenty of paid ole are using it for planted tanks.)

Hydroponics (Co2) Regulator Emitter System with Solenoid Valve Accurate and Easy to Adjust Flow Meter Made of High Quality Brass - Shorten up and Doub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NGH4M6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_y49oQQvbnDObI

Co2 tank

Aluminum CO2 Paintball Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WS6y6wpDabbwP

Co2 tank adapter

Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ygLvJnhVJyGBc


Have been running this setup for awhile now and don’t have any issues.

This setup has a solenoid that can be connected to a timer, here are the links.


Tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XKFQCM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KVG6PI8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Adapter for tank to reg: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Bubble counter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N2M2B6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As I'm sure you already know, Plant growth and health is limited by 3 factors on a sliding scale. Light, nutrients, and co2. If any of them are not present it inhibits the plant's ability to uptake the other two. I struggled for a very long time in my 20 gallon until I CONSISTENTLY provided all 3.

• At first it was the lighting. I couldn't get algae under control so I cut my light schedule then slowly tried to ramp it back up. It fucked up everything in my tank and black beard algae went ham on everything. The final solution I came to and the one that has been working excellently now is a schedule of - On from 7am-1pm, off til 5pm, On from 5pm to 9pm. The "siesta" in the middle allows for a build-up of CO2 (Walstad Method) and also severely inhibits bad algae growth (I need some algae as I have ottos, snails, and amano shrimp). First, I would suggest my lighting schedule and see how it works for you. If you aren't using timers they are absolutely essential to healthy plant growth. (Keep in mind we are using the exact same light, Planted+).
  
  
• Nutrients...I can't stress enough how important consistent, long-term fertilization is. I have some low-grow repens in my tank. When I first planted them they barely did anything. Once i dialed in my CO2 injection, and was consistently EI dosing for a few weeks they absolutely exploded. Something then happened in my family and I neglected the fertilization schedule for just about 1 week...and eeeeevery, single, part of it completely died off and melted away aside from the central stem. Instead of pulling them, I figured, "what the hell" and just started fertilizing again and within 3 weeks they were absolutely gorgeous and taking over my tank again. If you get a 1lb bag each of Potassium Nitrate, Monosodium Phosphate, and a Trace product called CSM+B, they will run about $30.00 total and last you for YEARS. Dosing is beyond easy as long as you have a scale ($8 on Amazon). Here is the calculator I use: http://www.aquariumcalculators.com/aquarium-plant-food/estimative-index/
  
  
• Seeing that you are in Alaska it seems like CO2 is going to be the most difficult aspect to integrate into your system. If you have access to a sporting goods store that refills CO2 canisters for Paintball then you can do what I am doing. All you would need (These are literally the items I bought from Amazon):
  
  
  • CO2 canister: link
    
    
  • Adapter to run canister to a silinoid regulator: link
    
    
  • Silinoid regulator so you can turn the co2 on and off with your light timer: link
    
    
  • We havent talked about filters but if you happen to be running a canister filter you can inject the CO2 inline with a reactor like this on your outflow: link
    
    
  • And in case you aren't running a canister a simple diffuser like this will do jut fine: link
    
    The startup cost is a bit, but once you are up and running it only costs ~$4.00 to refill a 24oz. Canister and one canister lasts me a month and half easy.
    
    If you don't have access to co2 refills then a DIY setup would be the only option and I have absolutely no experience with those unfortunately. One other option, while more expensive, are the fluval injection systems: link
    
    

1. Make sure you fertilize consistently. I highly recommend EI dosing.
   
   
2. Try my lighting schedule
   
   
3. Figure out a way to introduce co2 to your tank.

Basically, you need a tank, a regulator some airline, a bubble checker would be good to have and a diffuser. Also, you'd like a timer of some sort as you really do not need to have co2 running 24/7 nor would you probably want to.

My setup:

• 24oz Paintball co2 tank: $30 at paintball shop filled with co2.
  $23 dollars on Amazon - though I would have still needed to get it filled at paintball shop for $5 which brings it $28. $2 more - i think it's better at that to support the local shop and plus I didn't want to wait for the tank to come to my house as that would have arrived later than anything else.
  
  
• Adapater to utilize paintball co2 tank - $9 on Amazon
  
  
• Bubble Counter - $10 on Amazon I know the regulator has a bubble counter, however with the paintball tank it would not work as it'll be horizontal instead of vertical - you can choose cheaper ones. I just liked this $10 one. Btw a bubble counter will show you how much co2 you're adding or at least how fast as not every bubble counter counts it at the same pace but a good gauge to see how much you are adding - ie. you really cannot ask how many bubbles per second you should be running. the 1-2 bps that I run might be different on your bubble counter)
  
  
• CO2 Regulator - $60 on Amazon
  
  Price for this setup: $109
  
  If you need a timer, there's plenty of options. I already had one, but you can find them on Amazon.
  
  
• I was able to get this one as an add-on for $3.54 for something else though now it's $14.50 :/ and ironically I switched to a smart switch idea for my build anyways.
  
  
• Got this smart switch to control my autodoser and some other things -if it works it's a good $20 spent.
  
  Though in the end, you would need a timer and if you already have one then you won't have to buy one. Or if you have extra smart switches either that you can set a schedule on.
  
  Other tanks:
  
  Instead of the paintball tank you can get a regular co2 tank:
  
  
• 5lb from Amazon - $62 + ~$20 to fill at an air place It would have brought my setup to $141 if I went that route. It might be $50 more than the paintball tank, but it only increases price by $40 because you don't need the adapter nor the bubble counter. Pros: It could be cheaper. 24oz paintball is $5 to fill(in most places) a 5lb which is ~80oz can be anywhere from $10-$20. If it's on the lower end of that range where you live it's cheaper. Other pro is that less often you need to fill it. Negative: Larger and harder to hide. It won't fit in my setup or how I have my tank setup.
  
  Of course, that's just buying the stuff to build the system.
  
  You can watch videos about it on Youtube like Aquarium Co-Op's Co2 guide but I can still try to break it down.
  
  Get tank and properly secure it to the regulator.(I'd recommend watching a video on that as the regulator does need to be open for this part apparently). If using the paintball tank, secure the adapter to regulator first. DO NOT secure it on the paintball tank first. If you do it with the way the adapter is built, I'm guessing you'd be losing a bit of co2. Though, I haven't tried it, I'm logically thinking that it ain't good. If you use a 5lb tank or larger, there's something about some disc or gasket or something that is supposed to help keep it from leaking. I'm going to refer you to youtube on that one. I didn't use any on my paintball setup except for the gasket already on the tank. I did use some plumbers tape on the adapter to regulator though. I'm just hoping I don't have a leak and I'd be pretty confident to assume that I don't as I still have CO2 in my tank after a couple of weeks.
  
  All you need to do now is to attach the airline hose(some people will say to use co2-proof hose to prevent co2 loss, but I decided to skip that and you can decide what you wish to do as I might be right or wrong on that part along with other people who claim airline tube is sufficient) to the regulator. So after you attach the hose to the regulator, attach the bubble counter somewhere along the line before the aquarium(I think I did that right). Of course, if you use the 5lb or larger tank, you should be able to use the bubble counter that came with the regulator as it would stand vertical. The line eventually gets connected to a co2 diffuser which will break up the co2 into smaller bubbles to easily be dissolved better into your water. Of course, there are other ways to get the co2 into your tank, but this is the way I do it. Youtube can show you other ways, or other redditors for that matter. One thing to note is that you should also have a check valve to prevent water from going from the aquarium to your system. It should most likely be closer to the water than the co2 system. The bubble counter I use, also has a check valve for whatever that one is worth. Some diffusers come with bubble counters and check valves as well. Speaking of diffusers, i forgot to add that to my price. but that can run anywhere from $5 on up. Also the diffuser might have to be cleaned due to algae once and awhile.
  
  The system should be ran using a timer to coincide with your light cycle and should run basically when the lights are on. I turn my co2 on 1 hour before the lights turn on and turn it off 2 hours before the light turn off. Hypothetically, you can run it 24/7 however it's better not to as the risks are a bit too much for putting something in your tank that is not being used as the plants typically don't use co2 with the lights out and you can risk running into a situation where you deplete the oxygen in your fish.
  
  Overall, I think it's worth it at least for me. But also be cautious that adding too much co2 might be detrimental to your fish. If you are running it and your fish are all gasping for air, you definitely are putting too much in but you should never get it that far which some way to check it would be a good purchase for this. I just use the method of figuring out the ppm of CO2 based on pH and KH. I'm not sure how accurate it might be but it has been stable and my fish are doing fine as well as my plants and the algae is at bay. There's also what's called a CO2 drop checker that you can purchase to measure this.
  
  If you really want to get into this, I'd recommend researching it further yourself and maybe wait on some other more "experienced" redditors to answer as I might and could be wrong on some things. I know I've read some people don't think the ph/kh calculation method is good and to buy a drop checker, but I'm pretty confident in using it for my tank but I might be undosing the co2 for all I know. Though on the flipside, I could be overdosing, though my fish are not showing any signs of symptoms of said overdosing. But I could be wrong on that. If I am, please let me know. :) Definitely do your own research, like you should on anything. :) At least, get a good footing and confirmation from other sources.

I am quite happy with the following (I use on a 10 gallon and a 3 gallon at the same time using a T-fitting and two diffusers and two indicators):

Diffuser @$16.99 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFUGE5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This diffuser is good for hanging on the side of your tank. There are many others to choose from.

7 day timer @$14.65 (Three prong plug for regulator solenoid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHEHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You DO NOT want to let it run overnight because they say it will suffocate your fish.

CO2 indicator @#17.89 (need one for each tank) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9KWTHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CO2 proof tubing @#9.99 (regular tubing may leak CO2!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UCOFJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid @$69.99 (Yes, this one works great at that price) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N42JPDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Adaptor fitting to get regulator attached to a paintball tank @$9.90 (I had to modify this part, so pay attention): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Paintball tank @$21.49 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XKFQCM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dicks Sporting Goods will refill for $5 using your tank.

The issue with the adaptor is that the one I got had a bleed-off relief hole too far down in the threads such that the hole was exposed even when the tank was fully screwed in because the thread depth on the tank was shallow (fewer turns total) compared to the adaptor, Had to plug and re-drill the hole.

You should at least look at these components as part of your evaluation.

No problem. This is a low end system for sure, but it does a great job of pumping CO2 into the tank. The adjustment took a few days, partly due to the regulator valve being touchy, but also due to pneumatic systems like this changing very slowly. One other thing to keep in mind is that since this is a single stage regulator, there is risk of the tank dumping out the remaining CO2 at low pressure, but I will see what happens. Most people do not observe this, but some have.

The adapter is off of Amazon. It's this one specifically. The listing for the regulator did not describe itself very well, so although the thread fits a paintball tank, it does not have the pin in the middle to depress the valve of the paintball tank.

This is crazy, cause I had this list put together, let me know what you think of this stuff? May go with your diffuser tho as it seems cheaper, is it also a c
Drop checker or do I need to get one of those too? Also, should I be dosing stuff on top of this CO2 setup? Like should I use Excel and other stuff still?

Ohhh ok, wasn't sure if you tried cutting the top off of it or not.

JT CO2 Tank 12oz w/repeater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G2WAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-t03AbGZWQRJ7


Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iu03AbTZCMEKR

CO2 Regulator Aquarium Mini Stainless Steel Dual Gauge Display Bubble Counter and Check Valve w/ Solenoid 110V Fits Standard US Tanks - LP150 PSI - HP2000 PSI Accurate & Easy to Adjust Comes w/ Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C6HKTN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fu03AbFC8ZJ3S

Rhinox Glass Drop Checker Kit - 3 Seconds to Read CO2 levels - 3 Minutes to Setup - Fastest way to ensure sufficient Co2 in Planted Aquarium - Includes pH Reagent indicator solution & Color chart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C74ZCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xu03AbX7A0N5G

Pollen Glass CO2 Diffuser with U-Shape Connecting Tube for Aquarium Planted Tank (20 - 50 US gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2LZOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dv03Ab406ZNJT

AQUANEAT 25 FT Airline Tubing Suction Cups Control Valves Tee's Check valves Aquarium Air Pump Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Z8ZR9H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sv03Ab2DJ19BC

Rhinox Brass Check Valve for Aquariums - Sturdy, Reliable, Anti-Leak, Anti-Backflow, Non-Return CO2 Air Valve That Ensures One Directional Water Flow, Perfect for Sensitive Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHXW5SC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gv03Ab2QEHCZQ

Yeah, the only difference is that I used the Fluval diffuser. The glass diffuser is a lot more fragile - I dropped mine and it shattered. The Fluval one is a clunky piece of plastic, but holds up well. I've been re-evaluating my setup and will be replacing my DIY system with something more robust. Before I get into why, let me go share some advice with they DIY system...

 

First off, I'd also get a check valve. This will prevent siphoned water to back up into your CO2 setup. There are bubble counter/check valve combinations, even a diffuser/counter/check valve combo.

I haven't purchased these, so I can't comment on the quality. I will say - I purchase most if not all my supplies from Amazon with great success. I always buy the least expensive equipment. Most of it I can tell comes from China, but the quality is still pretty good - it gets the job done.

 

Second, the DIY setup is good, but does not last. The DIY kit you can get on Amazon is awesome - fits right on any standard soda bottle and has a nice needle valve and pressure gauge. My problem is durability, the setup I used to create the tank I have in the picture has recently broken down. The pressure gauge ripped off (because the tubing wore down) and although I tried to reattach and seal it, there was a slow leak that I wasn't willing to try and repatch. This is the second DIY kit I've broken, they both broke at the tubing piece that connects the gauge and the bottle cap. The main reason why it breaks down is because I shake the shit out of those bottles to stir up the Baking Soda and/or Citric Acid. I never really paid attention to the pressure gauge flopping to and fro, but now I realize that after enough "fros", the tubing worn down until it tore off. So if you stick with the DIY setup, try to either not shake it like a polaroid picture - or hold the pressure gauge steady.

 

The DIY system is cool because it makes you look like Walter White and also provides a "cheap" way of getting CO2 into your tank. All you have to buy after you have your setup is Baking Soda and Citric Acid. Baking Soda, I get at Costco for cheap and is so big it will last forever. Citric Acid - I haven't really looked in depth at purchasing local - but Amazon sells these 5lb bags for $15. I think it's the best deal on Amazon. I've only bought two bags total (I tried it in my 75 gallon tank - STUPIDEST IDEA EVER - but that was when I was really new to the hobby). I'd say for a 5-10 gallon tank, 1 5lb bag of Citric Acid should last you for maybeee a year - depends on your bubbles per second obviously.

 

One major con I have for the DIY system besides durability is that it's all manual. Sure - you can figure out how to rig up a solenoid of some sort and what not to get it on a timer- but seems like more trouble than it's worth for a DIY system. I let my CO2 run 24/7 which isn't ideal - but as the picture above clearly shows - it works. The other downside of it being manual is that baking soda surprisingly doesn't mix all the way with water. So when you introduce it to the citric acid solution (which mixes well with water) - the entire reaction may not occur until you shake it and baking soda then reaches the citric acid. Having to periodically check my CO2 system isn't terribly difficult, especially if you chose the DIY setup to save money - but sometimes if too much citric acid is transferred into the Baking Soda side - a fuckton of CO2 is created and now either is pumping into my tank or my soda bottles look like they're ready to explode. I will say - this has happened to me very rarely. I've seen my soda bottles build a lot of pressure before - but never bursted. So it's not the end of the world, just an unexpected inconvenience.

 

The other major con I have is refilling. Sure refilling doesn't take that long, empty the neutral baking soda/citric acid solution and add a the the right amounts of the new solutions in. But after doing it so many times - I'm kinda tired of it. I sometimes have extra soda bottles at the ready with the solutions and unscrew the old ones and pop in the new ones. Good plan, but still takes time and effort.

 

If you're careful not to shake the tubing of the pressure gauge, content with either having CO2 run 24/7 or manually turn it on and off AND are willing to periodically refill soda bottles, then I'd say give the DIY system a shot.

 

I chose the DIY setup when I first started the hobby and wasn't sure how dedicated I would be. Also - I didn't have a great paying job that would warrant me paying more for a convenient/foolproof CO2 setup.

 

Which brings me to what I plan on doing now. Now that I'm more interested in the hobby, I've decided to step my game up. For starters, I have a 75 gallon tank rigged up to a 20 lb CO2 tank that I have to refill every 3-4 months. I live by a small hydroponics shop that refills my CO2 tank for $20. I don't know if $20 is cheap, but the store is close, convenient and gets the job done. I also attached a $40 solenoid to it so I could connect it to a timer. This setup has been AWESOME. Very simple, and 100% reliable. I just take my empty 20 lb tank to the store and get it filled and plug it back into the solenoid.

 

Because my 20lb CO2 tank setup has been so successful in my 75 gallon, I've decided to do something similar for my 5 gallon. While a 20lb CO2 tank is complete overkill - there are pretty good alternatives out there. I've looked at using the Fluval 20G CO2 kit and using Threaded CO2 Bike Tire Cartridges. The diffuser that comes with the Fluval system is huge and I would never use it. So basically I'm paying $30 for a regulator that can't even easily attach to a solenoid. Also those 16g bike tire cartridges seem small and wasteful. So your costs are $30 for the setup and ~$30 for the CO2 cartridges - which who knows how long those last. The main benefit to this setup is that it's super small. This seems like a good setup for sure and was very close to going for it, but I've decided to go with something else.

 

I'm buying a 24 oz Paintball CO2 tank ($25) , a CGA 320 Adapter (CGA 320 is the size of the standard CO2 tank threading) ($10), and a regular solenoid ($40). The prices seem reasonable except for that CGA 320 adapter piece. $10 for a piece of metal. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the same piece at Home Depot or Lowe's and I'm also lazy. So I'd rather pay the $10 then figure out how to jerry-rig my own. The adapter allows the threading of a Paintball tank to connect with the threading of a standard CO2 solenoid. Considering the Fluval setup is $60, I'd say this $75 paintball setup is worth it - especially since it now has a solenoid! The main difference is CO2 refill. Dick's Sporting Goods (also local for me) refills 24oz paintball CO2 tanks for $5 and every 5th fill is free. I think 24 oz will last me a long time anyway. In any case - I think the main obstacle whether it is using a 20lb CO2 tank or using a 24oz Paintball tank is where you're going to get that CO2 filled. You can search for a local Airgas or like a place that sells/refills Fire Extinguishers. Bars use CO2 as well for beer - but you don't need food grade CO2, that's just overpaying.


 

I know I went a little overboard, but this is all information that I've recently researched and figured I'd share it. I can't comment on the performance on the paintball tank setup just yet, but I assume it will work fine.

 

TL;DR DIY systems are cheap and good, but not 100% reliable/consistent and must be manually turned on/off/. You may or may not marry a woman named Skyler White during the process. Major costs are $15 for DIY rig, $15 for a 5lb bag of Citric Acid. I'd recommend using a 24oz Paintball CO2 tank because they can attach to a solenoid and are reliable and consistent. Major costs are $25 for a 24oz Paintball Tank, $10 for a CGA 320 Adapter, a $40 solenoid. $5 fill ups at Dick's Sporting Goods.

You will need an Paintball adapter.

If you want, you can purchase a 20oz paintball tank, buy an adapter, drop checker, tubing and use that. Or you can just spend 300-400 for the actual machine.

My 20oz paintball tank has lasted me about 1.5 months before refilling.

http://www.amazon.com/U-P-Aqua-UA-148-Simple-Regulator/dp/B005VS1GD6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Interstate-Pneumatics-WRCO2-5A4-Paintball-Adapter/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Pure-Energy-40020-Empire-20oz/dp/B0008G2WAW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Glass-Drop-Checker-MONITOR/dp/B00OO2FUFK?ie=UTF8&keywords=drop%20checker&qid=1458869676&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

Thanks, that helps confirm what we thought.

If the goal is to serve from the sodastream and feed your beer kegs, here’s what you have to do:

Firstly, you need to think of your sodastream bottle/cylinder as a mini CO2 tank. You will be replacing your 5lb CO2 cylinder with the 9/12oz sodastream bottle. You’re going to bypass the sodastream machine completely, as it’s not necessary. Also, keep in mind that most CO2 regulators have checkvalves, which means the gas only flows one way (this is good, don’t want beer in your reg!).

1. Remove the CO2 regulator from the big CO2 cylinder. The only way to move gas through your reg is from the big thread, through the body and out the tubing. You can’t go in one tubing and out another (unless you have a non-checked splitter, but I don’t see one).
   
   
2. Hook up the adapter to the Regulator I linked earlier (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I2UMZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KZH9BbBXEMM3K, your local homebrew shop may carry these, mine does). I am 95% sure it’s the same threading paintball/sodastream, but I could be convinced I’m wrong. For a temp fix, plumbers tape is tour friend. Attach this securely to your regulator first, before you add the cylinder to the mix.
   
   
3. Attach the reg/adapter combo to your sodastream bottle. It may hiss a bit as you tighten it, as there is a post that pushes in the pin on the cylinder. Just keep going. Double check the o-ring on your bottle is intact first to be sure you don’t empty the cylinder.
   
   
4. Now you can use the regulator as you would your normal setup. Take another look at the picture I posted earlier, this is how I use it. https://i.imgur.com/xg7KXvK.jpg
   
   If you’re trying to do something else (fill the sodastream cylinder for reuse, or use your big CO2 tank to run your sodastream unit), there are different parts/steps to use. Let me know if I got it wrong and you still need help.

Im not sure but I know this when I was using CO2 thanks for my welding. I would keep paintball tanks for emergency so I got this [Interstate Pneumatics WRCO2-5A4 CO2 Paintball Tank CGA 320 Adapter])https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2UMZ2Q/)ie=UTF8&psc=1
you will need something to push the center valve pin down to let the gas flow.
So maybe something like this Propane Refill Adapter For One Pound Tank only the reverse.
Note: I think it will suck that tank dry fast. I use a wagon to drag mine around.



found one its called Steak Saver Adapter 1 lb to 20 lb Propane Tank Adapter