Reddit reviews IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

I see yours has a hard drive. That's really really cool--definitely not the usual 5155 fare.

You can do serial connectivity, which is easy and well documented, or you can do the slightly less well documented but way funnier and more future-proof method.

I used this to get my 5150 online.

1. Obtain an Ethernet controller like the NE2000--something that doesn't care too much about the extra lines on the 16-bit portion of the ISA bus. I have personally had best luck with the 3Com Etherlink series, 3C509C to be specific. If this is not an option, there exists Xircom ethernet adapters that plug into a parallel port and you can use one of those instead, though that isn't as fun as an integrated solution.
   
   
2. Install the packet drivers, set your IRQs and I/O ports accordingly. This may prove difficult if you have no way of getting files to it to start with. If you can't write 360K disks, you can attempt to transmit them over serial, which is another task in itself.
   
   
3. Set up mTCP (http://brutman.com/mTCP/) to use the packet driver.
   
   You now have a 5155 that can talk over ethernet. If you connect an external wired to wifi ethernet bridge like this one perhaps you can have a luggable computer with wi-fi access!
   
   Disclosure that I love doing ridiculous things like that--making an Apple II talk to the internet is just as much fun--so please excuse the bias.
   
   Serial transmission will be easier and more era-appropriate if that's what you're after, but ethernet gives you access to the Internet as well as being able to transmit files to it over HTTP or FTP, which is majorly convenient
   

Time to go old school. This is how Wi-Fi was done back in the day (although this is a new 802.11n device).

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421519257&sr=8-1&keywords=Ethernet+to+wifi+adapter

Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.

Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).

Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.

　

4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |

　

4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |

　

faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |

Sure! You'll need a wireless bridge. Something like this .

You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:

Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637

There are devices that will convert Wifi to an ethernet connection. You could probably get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

You could also tether a cell phone to a laptop and bridge your connection over the laptop's ethernet port. You may also be able to bridge wifi over the ethernet port as well, this will probably vary from network to network.

I got the same one from Amazon for $12 cheaper than what the 4GCommunity offers on their website.

You can connect an ethernet to wifi adapter to the box for wireless access.

An example:

[IOGEAR Universal Ethernet](https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6)

No idea on that, never owned a beaglebone. I would think they would work, but there may be some differences.


At least the usb dongles for the pi are decently cheap. And it is always handy to have a known 'linux compatible' dongle - for getting problematic built in wifi drivers working on some laptops.

Since it has an actual network port, you could use one of those Network -> wifi 'dongles' like..

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

I have used those in the past for hooking up Non-wifi enabled devices to the wifi.

but that is a little overkill i think.

Could always use an ethernet to wireless adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

​

It's not the prettiest but it won't involve any drilling.

You may have a lot of trouble making that wireless work.

Does this machine have ethernet? If so you could use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6

After messing around with bridging and everything I could not make a setup like this work. I wound up using THIS to receive wifi and send to via ethernet to the router WAN port.

Should be able to get this thing to join your wifi network from the hotspot and hand off a wired interface to the MoCA gear. Is the bluray player wifi only? Seems like ti would be easier to just connect it with a cable to the other end of the MoCA setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6

a Wi-Fi/Ethernet adapter like this IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

Oops. I was looking at the wrong manual. Sorry! I still can't find anything on the repeater feature.
Worst case, you can use something like this to connect to your cellular device's wireless network and then plug it into the WAN/Internet port on the D-Link.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gptwzb55QP4WZ

You seek a a Wireless to Ethernet bridge.

Something like:

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413599693&sr=1-4&keywords=Wireless+Ethernet+bridge

Dead link.

Here's something similar on Amazon.

Oh man, that's definitely not the best way to go but I do know how to do it. In fact, I can't even guarantee it will because I've technically never tried it this way (although once I did something similar to make Chromecast work in a hotel.) First, you have to realize that just plugging into that adapter isn't going to work because it's configured to be looking for an IP address instead of assigning one. So, the first thing you need to go is Google "Internet connection sharing for Windows 10." Look at the instructions for turning your computer into a hotspot because that's what you're doing. The computer is essentially turning itself into a router. Wifi adapter gets an IP address and acts as a gateway. It's really not that complicated but you do have to configure it properly. You could also take an old router and flash it with DD-WRT and turn it into a wireless bridge. Otherwise, the computer has to be on 24/7 with a connection. I'll be around if you have questions.

*if you aren't networking savvy, you could save a lot of time buying a cheap wireless network bridge instead of making one. It looks like they range for 20 to 100 bucks on Amazon. The bridge connects to Wifi and "bridges" that connection to an Ethernet port. Here's an example -https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Smart-Dual-Band-Extender-EW-7438AC/dp/B015AMYCMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494275684&sr=1-17&keywords=Wireless+bridge

Or one of these - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494277810&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+to+wifi+adapter

Something like this might do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468418411&sr=8-2&keywords=wi-fi+to+ethernet+adapter

It allows you to connect a device that only has an ethernet port to WiFi. Then you can join your Hue bridge to the campus wifi and your other devices on the campus wifi should be able to access it.

Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but Amazon has a fairly generous return policy so you shouldn't be screwed if it doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_fiRJybG76T80T

Here's what you need. This one is powered by USB but you can find ones powered by AC outlets. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UAKCS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505772508&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+Ethernet+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31QxwJoJabL&ref=plSrch

I'm not sure if it can do both. Although, an option you may be interested is you can get an the IOgear universal adapter. This will connect to the hotspot via wifi and allow you to connect via an ethernet port.

I assume this is for the Hue bridge since you're posting in the Hue subreddit. Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqpbBbTMC0JYK

Or, as others have suggested, get a network extender/wireless bridge with ethernet ports.

Are you running the game over the PS3's WiFi? If so, I would suggest you hook it up directly to your router. If you cannot do that and your router has wireless-N functionality, get an Ethernet to wireless-N adapter. I had really bad lag problems on my PS3 but they went away (for the most part aside from SE's screwups) when I got that adapter.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

This setup is in the basement, where network cabling is impossible to get to without drilling through flooring and creating a huge mess. That's where the powerline adapters come in.

However, on my quest to research wireless bridges, I stumbled on this:

IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-DwYzbRWNHWN3

It claims to turn any wired device into a wireless device. Could I plug this into the WAN port on my router and bypass the Powerline completely? The wireless reception down there has never been too bad, currently I use it since the wired connection is so slow and so far it's pretty decent.

What about https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520207416&sr=1-2&keywords=WNCE3001?

Incase anyone is interested - I got it to work! I started off buying this: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MK0W2AM-Lightning-Camera-Adapter/dp/B01F7KJDIM/ which allows you to charge the phone and power the USB to Ethernet Adapter. Unfortunately, this only seems to work with newer versions of iOS (it says "Device is not supported" when I plug it into my iOS 9.1 devices).

I had to buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-to-USB-Camera-Adapter/dp/B014VGHG0U/

The Apple USB to Ethernet Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-Ethernet-Adapter-MC704LL/dp/B00W7W9FK0

And also buy a powered USB hub (any one should I work, but this one is powered by microusb so I can plug it into a car charger): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/

Lastly, I had to buy an Ethernet to Wi-Fi Adapter (I bought this one, again because it is USB powered - any one should work though): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UAKCS6/

So the extremely complicated solution is to have my iPhone 6S Jailbroken on iOS 9.1 connected over wireless CarPlay (uses Wi-Fi Direct) - so to get Internet data, I have the iPhone Lightning to USB Adapter connected to Anker USB Hub which is plugged into a car charger and the Apple USB Ethernet Adapter, then over Ethernet to the IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter. The IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter is configured to connect to my iPhone 6S Plus's HotSpot.

The bad thing with this is I cannot charge the Jailbroken 6S while I do this (I bought a lightning splitter to see if this will allow me to charge).

If I was on iOS 10.2 Jailbroken, I could use the newer Apple Lightning USB Adapter which can charge the phone too and get rid of the Anker USB hub. Maybe 10.3.2 will get jailbroken soon! :)

If Apple allowed Bluetooth Tethering like they do with iPads and iPod Touches, I could have simply tethered one iPhone to the other, but for whatever reason Apple doesn't allow that and there doesn't seem to be a tweak to fix this that I can find.

This is exactly what you are asking for.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496247910&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+ethernet+adapter

Advance warning: I don't think this is best solved with a Pi, so this is how I'd suggest addressing the problem, rather than the question.

1. The last time I needed to add wifi to something that only had ethernet, I simply used an ethernet to wifi adapter
   
   • The specific one I used was this, but for some reason they're stupid-expensive now, so unless you find a cheap one on eBay, I wouldn't suggest it. (I know it says 'access point', but there's a switch on the back)
     
   • This appears to be the same principle, but only 34 bucks. I haven't used it myself, but it's worth looking into
     
2. If the reason you're using wifi is just to avoid the annoying cable, you might be able to use a 'powerline' adapter
   
   • They simply run networking over your home's AC wiring
     
   • e.g. here
     
   • The catch is that, depending on the brand, and how your home/work is wired, it may or may not work (or at least well). It certainly can work well, and when it does, it's super-simple to set up
     
     If possible, I'd be inclined to try for #1, but I think either should apply.
     
     As for how to do it with a Pi, you should be able to put the Pi beside the machine and connect wirelessly, plug the machine into the Pi's ethernet, and then set up a 'bridge' to share the connection. I've never done it with a Pi specifically, but back in the day it was very easy to set up on Ubuntu on a netbook.

i have no idea if these work well, but it has to be better than usb.

Oh yeah, you'll be all over it. Totally nifty thing. No monthly fees either. Clamp it on the mains, plug it in, and go. They have a wireless version, but it was $199 when I was looking - appears to be on sale for $149 now which is probably easier. I bought this wireless adapter and plugged mine into that.

I just put a handy box in my load panel, wired up an outlet and put it in there, then plugged both in there. Very tidy.

In principle, a PCIe WiFi card is your best bet, and if you have the money, I highly recommend that.

In practice, you can use a dongle or an ethernet adapter (these are a lot less common than they used to be, since everything including your socks has a usb port on it these days).

However, like many people here, I'm going to suggest that you stick to cables if at all practical.

Is it possible to connect the mixer to the wireless?

If not natively, with something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

​

We use these at work, they give pretty good signal

There are wifi ethernet adapters out there: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

You're going to need to power the wifi/ap in the garage with PoE. So theoretically you can use the power outlet with an injector and run the cable from the adapter through the injector and onto the AP in the garage. Honestly not sure how well this will work, but it theoretically should.

​

No this will not work in any way shape or form. The Ethernet jack on the camera is expecting an Ethernet signal your usb wireless adapter will out put a USB signal. You will be putting a USB signal into a device expecting an Ethernet signal. These are options that will get you what you need Wireless Bridge or Power Line Ethernet

You can get one of these adapters. Plug the Ethernet cable to the adapter and ST hub. Join the adapter to your wireless hotspot.

I have one similar to this plugged into my audio receiver and it works perfectly.

You just need a wireless bridge. It connects to your WiFi network and allows you to connect wired devices.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487095682&sr=1-9&keywords=wireless+bridge

You could look to see if your wireless router has a bridge mode, and if not perhaps you could install third party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato that would give you that feature.

then the you need the first device for your phone: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

But not that I understand the scenario better, an Powerlan adapter would be better for you: http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-Powerline-Gigabit-Wall-plug-PLA4225KIT/dp/B0061308MA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457079884&sr=8-1&keywords=dlan

If you don't know what powerlan is have a look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dC8WoQ4GuLg

The router should have one or more Ethernet ports on it. If only one, connect a switch to the router and then run an Ethernet cable to your room. But that's messy. If the router and your computer has wifi, use that. If the router doesn't have wifi, get a wifi access point and connect it to the router with Ethernet. If your computer doesn't have wifi, either add a wifi card if you have a free PCI slot (something like this), or use an Ethernet to Wifi adapter (something like this).

Note the products I'm linking are just examples I found with a quick search, I don't know if there are better/cheaper ones out there and I don't have any personal experience with these particular products.

Does your TV have the option of adding a wifi stick of some sort?

If not, you can get one of these things. It connects to the WiFi & lets you hook an ethernet device up to the other side.

You can use a wireless bridge, I've used them multiple times with standalone wired only devices to great success.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Hope this helps!

You could use something like this or use an old spare router with wifi.

Thanks. So, my Blu-Ray player doesn't have wifi, now that's not that big of an issue, I usually just unplug the HDMI cable and hook up my laptop. Granted, I could also just get an Ethernet cable, but I don't know if I want to mess with contacting the college to set up a physical connection (it's probably not actually that hard and I could always get something like [this thing from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6), but whatever, I'm getting off topic). Anyway, my main question is about headphones. I would need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Cyelee-Optical-Splitter-Converter--Include/dp/B01D1680O2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466101106&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1) as well as an additional HDMI cable to do what I was asking, correct? I just want to be sure, I bought the adapter without really looking into it and I want to be sure before buying anything else. So, to be absolutely clear, I would connect and HDMI cable from my Blu-Ray or computer to the stereo, use my adapter with the RCA output, and use a second HDMI cable to hook up to my TV, which I mute. I'm pretty sure I got it, I just like to make sure, I apologize for being redundant, but I am very thankful for your answer.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511726997&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+to+ethernet+adapter

USB is extremely common and meant for external peripherals, so it only makes sense that most wifi adapters use a USB port.

There are adapters that use an ethernet port, however. For example: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Alternatively, if size isn't an issue, any WiFi access point set in "client mode" will essentially do the same thing.

Finally, the latest RPi comes with onboard WiFi, completely eliminating the problem.

Yes, they have devices specifically for this. Here's one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

If your device has a USB port though, it might be easier to use a usb wifi adapter like another comment said. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKDAUAS

Yeah I wanted something like that too!
This is the closest solution that doesn't need to be plugged into the wall it's just usb for power Ethernet for data but the Netgear works better for me!
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

As far as the WEP thing goes, I would suggest getting something like this or this. It will let you (after it is configured from a pc) plug it into your ethernet port of the xbox and can connect to your current setup with up to wpa2 encryption.

A second route would be if you happen to find that your wireless network needs some extending, you can get one of these and have it setup next to the xbox. Then you can just run an ethernet cable from the extender to the xbox. This way you have a dual purpose for your purchase. Extending your wireless network range and also giving whatever room it is in 4 hardwired ports.

A third route would be to take any old router you have, set it up as a bridge (on most you just disable DHCP and NAT, and then connect the hardwire from router1 to port 4 on router2(aka bridge 1)) with a hardwire running back to the first router. Place router 2 next to the xbox and hardwire the xbox to router 2.


You will want to install XBMC4XBOX (not really install more like ftp over). It is a specially maintained version for the XBOX hardware. It is illegal for the dev team to release it technically because of the use of the xbox SDK to compile. You can compile yourself, or look into the xbins ftp server for binarys. I haven't messed with XBMC4XBOX in over a year so im not so sure on how the plugins function currently. Id imagine most will work since its all running on python. Don't expect it to play any HD content though.