Reddit Reddit reviews IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps, One-Handed, Mini Bar, 6-Inch, 4-Pack (1964758)

We found 11 Reddit comments about IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps, One-Handed, Mini Bar, 6-Inch, 4-Pack (1964758). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Hand Tools
Clamps
Power & Hand Tools
Bar Clamps
IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps, One-Handed, Mini Bar, 6-Inch, 4-Pack (1964758)
NON-MARRING PADS: Grip firmly and protect your workpiece from scratches and scuffsQUICK-GRIP DESIGN: One-handed triggers release the clamps instantlySTURDY: Resin construction with hardened steel bars to prevent flexing and bending140LBS of force: Keep your workpiece together and evenly distribute 150LBS. of forceEASY-TO-USE: Ideal for clamping smaller workpieces and working in confined areas
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11 Reddit comments about IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps, One-Handed, Mini Bar, 6-Inch, 4-Pack (1964758):

u/SirEDCaLot · 9 pointsr/DataHoarder

Cool stuff!

Here's one thing- when stacking them improves the sound, I'm wondering if that's just due to having more resonant coupled mass. Try not stacking them but instead put something heavy and rigid (old HDDs, cordless drill battery, a brick, etc) on top of the drives. See if you get a similar effect. Also try putting something heavy on top of the stack...
By resonant coupled mass I mean material that gets the vibrations of the drive transferred to it, and thus helps with putting those vibrations into the air. Thus bolting the drives down to the board will help a lot. But let's come back to that.

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To build your box, you really only need a couple of tools and parts, which I'll link you to now.
Cordless Drill
Cheap Drill Bits
Circular Saw (a jigsaw is also OK)
Set of 4 clamps
Carpenter's Square
Angle Brackets
Wood Screws (probably want some 1/2 inch screws too for the brackets)
A piece of 1x2 wood moulding or similar
A piece of quality 1/2" plywood or MDF
Feel free to substitute whatever's on offer at your local big box home improvement store, it's the concepts that matter not the specific models of things. With that stuff you can build almost anything, your little box will be a snap.

The key with all that- use two of the clamps to clamp the board you're cutting down to the table. Then use the other two clamps to clamp a 2-4' piece of moulding down to the board. The moulding then serves two purposes: Along with the square and a pencil, it lets you draw a very straight and very long line along where you want to cut, and then when you move the molding back a bit (by the exact distance between the edge of the saw's skid plate and the sawblade), it forms a guide for the edge of the circular saw skid plate to slide against, giving you a perfectly straight cut even from a handheld saw.
Note: always cut with the saw facing away from you or your body, and keep your fingers away from the path of the blade! Let the tool do the cutting, don't force it. When you drill a hole for a screw, pick the drill bit that's as wide as the screw shaft (not the screw teeth).

I suggest using more angle brackets to rigidly mount the floppy drives to the casing itself. Obviously brackets that have the hole in a place which holds the drive flush against the casing are preferred. Angle brackets come in all different sizes, and you can always just drill another hole through the bracket if you need to. A larger angle bracket could hold both the upper and lower drive. Or for a stack of two drives, mount one to the inside of the main casing, and the other to the outside of the HDD casing.

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Now back on audio. A box like you designed might really help, especially if the back is closed as you're creating a cavity which focuses all the sound forward.

However you should also get a better microphone. If as you say it sounds great in person, well, that isn't being captured well on your video. The video is seriously lacking in bass- floppys make a great raspy bass and that doesn't come over well in the video. :(
I suggest an external mic, something which will stay right next to the drives and enclosure. There are also portable audio recording gadgets which have a good mic built in, I'm thinking something like this.
(Random sidenote- that's why the clapper slate exists, seeing the clap on film and hearing it on a separately-recorded audio track is used to sync up the video with the audio...)

For reference, consider how What is Love has really strong bass, but has a good quality mic right there.
Also production wise- what that guy sometimes does is first record half the drives with the mic right next to them, then record the other half of the drives with the mic right next to them, then sync the recordings and make the two (mono) recordings into the L and R of a stereo track and lay it over the video of the drives moving which is recorded without any microphone...


Hope that helps!

u/OnanationUnderGod · 3 pointsr/ElectricScooters

I figured out how to change the tires pretty easily. You can take the tube out with the tire lever; this is the easy part.

To put the tire back on, first put the valve through the hole. Then, use the clamps and the tire iron (or possibly start with the tire levers) to do the rest. Clamp it as far as you can on each side (1/3rd to 1/2th the tire clamped in place) and keep moving the tire into position with two tools very close to each other starting close to the clamps. When you make some progress, put a new clamp into position. I had to use the tire irons for the last part as it's extremely tight. **You won't be able to go straight for putting the rest of the tire on, you have to do it bit by bit from the clamps.

Pedro's Tire lever - https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-6400051-Tire-Lever/dp/B001SN8IW0

Clamps - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSY4QO

Tire iron - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVGSO0A

u/solipsistnation · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Take a look at how wooden model airplanes are built. They have scale plans that you can lay the parts out on and you can use T-headed push pins to hold them in place while the glue dries. Techniques here might be useful:

http://www.pldaniels.com/flying/balsa/balsa-pinning-methods.html

I have some little tiny bar clamps (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-5464-One-Handed-6-Inch/dp/B001DSY4QO ) that might help, too, although the ratchet action on them is quite strong and it would be easy to crush whatever you're working on.

u/RoyOConner · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

"making dabs" lol

Sorry - I always just get a kick out of that usage.

You definitely don't need a press - a hair straightener can work great, but like other people said, if the bud is too dry it won't work.

We use this clamp: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-1964758-One-Handed-Clamp/dp/B001DSY4QO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=clamp&qid=1564765600&s=gateway&sr=8-3



In fact, if you're not going to make lots and lots of rosin, don't even invest in a press. This method will work well and get you a decent yield.

u/Paremo · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Seen here? The blue ones appear to be Irwin quick-grip clamps, while the red ones are probably Bessey K body clamps.

Come on man, this shit isn't exactly hard to figure out.

u/mubbythelarge · 1 pointr/ElectricScooters

I just finished a rear tire change myself for the first time. A few things that helped me that I picked up from various youtube videos:

I used quick-grip clamps to compress the tire and keep it in the wheel on the opposite side I'm working on. I placed 2 clamps aligned with the spokes on either side of the valve, and worked on the other side so I don't accidentally damage the valve with my efforts. I have clamps like these:
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-1964758-One-Handed-Clamp/dp/B001DSY4QO

I lubed the tire bead edge and wheel rim with WD-40. It still took a lot of force to get the final section of bead over the rim, but the lube really helped. My first attempts at taking off the tire ended up with my old set of plastic levers snapping. Had to make a trip to the local bike store to get a new set of nylon tire levers with steel core. The ones I found were made by Specialized. They did a great job (tires were still stubborn but came off and on).

u/chung_my_wang · 1 pointr/howto

For this job, or one very like it specifically, a couple of those one handed speed clamps would work really well, too. In this case, you'd clamp the handle/knob first, east to west, and then the rim, east to west. It's different than with the tape, because the forces applied go different directions; pressing on the tape is a vertical downward force, and the clamps provide an inward lateral force. (the elastic force of the slightly stretched tape is inward and lateral, but is also marginal; enough to slowly squeeze the excess glue out, but not enough to hinge-spring the two halves apart)

u/tranteryost · 1 pointr/architecture

I’m in US so names of things might be different:

X-acto: Getting the nicer knife (with a cushioned grip) and a couple different styles of blades is so helpful!
I found that having The Chopper a miter box, and this thing kept my cuts square.
Now I have a mini miter saw and it’s pretty awesome but pricey.

A self healing cutting mat that you use only for cutting (don’t get glue etc on it).

Sandpaper to clean up messy cuts.

Glue: tacky for most things - let it set up a little on a scrap piece before applying, things won’t move around as much. cyanoacrolyte (non gap filling is better) and an accelerator are godsends when you can’t hold pieces together to dry.

mini clamps or mini clips and a square that you can clamp to (you can make this out of foam board and line it with parchment paper to keep glue from sticking) so you don’t have to hold it while it dries. The gentle painters tape also helps.

Wash your hands constantly! Have a ‘clean area’ for cutting and assembly and a ‘dirty area’ for glue ups.

Edited to add that I wouldn’t buy a styrofoam cutter off the bat, most schools have them and they’re just for concept massing models. Check YouTube for videos, the guys that make scenery for model trains etc are amazing.

u/oldneckbeard · 1 pointr/woodworking

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

  1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
  2. Metal-body combination square
  3. Basic chisels
  4. Workbench with clamps
  5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
  6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
  7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.

    Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)

u/raistlin65 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Then maybe you are right. Could be sunlight heated it up.

​

I would imagine you can glue it back down again. Use some bar clamps to hold it tight: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-1964758-One-Handed-Clamp/dp/B001DSY4QO/ . Just put cloth in between the clamps and the veneer surface so you don't scratch it. Probably find some DIY information online about what kind of glue to use with veneer.