Reddit reviews IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripper, Self-Adjusting, 8-Inch (2078300)

They're rather common and are available anywhere from Harbor Freight to Home Depot. This is the set that I own.

These wire strippers right here. These things make stripping wires so freaking easy. I never had a proper set of wire strippers and would use Xacto knives and my fingernails prior to buying these. Now it takes a second and a half to strip a wire, no measuring or anything. Stick the wire in the thing, squeeze the thing, pull the thing, and you have a stripped wire. Highly, highly recommended.

What type of list would you be looking for? I have a spreadsheet with all the Knipex tools I own, and my wish list of tools I'm looking to buy when I find them at the right price, but I don't think that spreadsheet would be that useful to most people.


I work with shielded cable all the time at work. The Knipex Snips are great at stripping them. You can get the Knipex snips for about $20 if you look around. Check out the design on them and you'll see the little indention at the base of them which makes them really good at stripping stuff like shielded cable and Cat5/6.


for 18/2 or 22/4 shielded cable the #12 stripper slot on a regular pair of Klein strippers works really well. The Knipex automatic wire strippers are only designed for individual conductors, but they do a really good job of stripping every wire the exact same length which is really handy for terminating panels.


I have a pair of Irwin automatic strippers, and they do OK with stripping the jackets off cables, but overall I wasn't impressed with them and stopped carrying them at work. You might have good luck with them - they have good reviews.

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

These self adjusting wire strippers are pretty fantastic:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA

Inspired by this design with very few changes.

This is a wort/water pumping box that shields the pump from the elements/spills and allows you to use a simple switch button to turn the pump on and off instead of having to plug/unplug it to power cycle it. It also protects the pump head/pump body from getting damaged because I'm clumsy. It also provides 2 extra GFCI outlets for you to plug in a computer or anything else as needed.

Box/pump:

• Stainless head Center Inlet Pump 3/4" Inlet x 1/2" outlet - Chugger pumps - $160
  
• Toolbox Harbor Freight - $15
  
• 1-7/8" bi metal hole saw to make hole for charger inlet - Ace Hardware - $8
  
• 15-amp 125-vold black charger inlet - Amazon - $11 - this has gone up significantly since I bought it
  
• 15 amp weather resistant tamper resistant GFCI outlet - Amazon - $20
  
• Stainless Wall plate - Amazon - $4
  
• Illuminated Maintained Contact Pushbutton Switch, 22mm 120/240V- Auber Instruments - $12 - Light comes on when button is pressed & switches power to surge strip on. Shiny. Pretty. 600x better than a wall switch.
  
  
  Fittings for pump:
  
  
• 1/2" stainless hex nipple - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" stainless NPT 90 degree elbow - Bargain Fittings
  
• 3/4" stainless NPT x 1/2" reducing coupling - Bargain Fittings
  
• 1/2" Stainless NPT 3 piece ball valve - Bargain Fittings
  
  Had on hand:
  
  
• Irwin 2078300 8-Inch Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper with ProTouch Grips - These things are awesome and if you do any wiring projects, they save tons of time
  
• Power strip - Looks like this one
  
• White, black, and green 14ga electrical wire
  
• Spade connectors
  
• Electrical Tape
  
• Linesmans pliers/Screwdrivers/adjustable wrenches/circuit tester/power drill/drill bits
  
• Step drill bits - Harbor Freight - Not sure how long these will last, but they've worked so far
  
• Teflon tape
  
• 1/4"x6"x10" scrap wood
  
• 3 Small bolts/3 nuts/6 washers - This part was a mess. First I tried wood screws, then the bolts I had were too long, then I cut those bolts down and I couldn't get the nut on the bolt, then the wood I mounted the pump on was full toolbox length & I couldn't get it back in the toolbox so I had to cut it, then the bolt heads on the underside of the board made the pump unstable.
  
  Hoses:
  
  
• 12' 1/2" ID Silicon tubing cut into 2 6' pieces
  
• 2xStainless Steel Male Disconnect
  
• 2xStainless Steel Female Disconnect - I've bought these from morebeer & midwestsupplies & while they are slightly different in appearance, they both work interchangeably.
  
• 4xHose clamps
  
• 4x1/2" NPT Female x 1/2" hose barb
  
  Build Steps:
  
  

1. Drill a hole using the bimetal hole saw where you want to run your plug from the wall to the toolbox.
   
2. Cut out a hole where you want your GFCI outlet to go. I used a dremel, it doesn't really matter what you use.
   
3. Line up your gfci outlet and plate how you want them & drill holes so you can screw the plate -> GFCI -> box to secure it.
   
4. Drill a 7/8"/22.5mm hole using a step bit or punch an appropriate size hole where you want your power switch to go.
   
5. Cut a small 1/4" x6"x whatever length you want bit of wood to mount the pump on.
   
6. Drill appropriate holes using a step bit where you want them for your pumps outlet/inlet.
   
7. Mount the top half of the switch. Make sure you line it up so it's easy to wire the bottom half & attach it to the mounted top part.
   
8. Remove back rubber piece from charger inlet. Cut 3 wires (one each: black, white, green) long enough to reach from your charger inlet to the line on the GFCI outlet. Strip ~1/2" off each end of the wire. Insert into appropriate colored hole on back of charger inlet and screw them in tight.
   
9. Unscrew metal band from back of charger inlet. Insert into hole you drilled in step 1, screw band on to tighten and feed all 3 wires through rubber piece & slide rubber piece on back of inlet.
   
10. Screw Hot (black) to line Hot side (Usually gold screws), screw Neutral (white) to line neutral side (Usually silver screws), and Ground (green) to ground screw on GFCI outlet.
    
11. Cut plug off of surge protector & strip back outer sheath to expose 3 wires inside. Now it's time to wire up your switch to provide power to the surge protector.
    
12. Cut a black wire long enough to go from the Hot Load side of the GFCI outlet to the bottom of the switch. Strip 1/2" of insulation off both ends. Crimp a spade terminal on one side, screw the other side into the Hot Load side of the GFCI. Hook the spade side into the post labeled 23 on the switch.
    
13. Now you'll need to do some splicing. I used compression sleeves, but feel free to do it however you want. The Neutral (white) wire from the surge strip needs to be split. Strip the end on the surge protector wire, cut and strip 2 white wires, long enough to reach the switch and GFCI outlet and splice them together with the surge strip wire. Crimp a spade terminal on one and hook it up to X1 on the switch. Hook the other wire up to the Neutral Load side of the GFCI outlet.
    
14. Cut 2 Hot (Black) wires long enough to be able to reach the switch from the end of the surge strip, strip the ends, and splice them together with the hot (black) wire coming from the surge strip. Crimp spade connectors on the ends of both wires. Hook one spade onto X2 on the switch & the other onto 24.
    
15. Screw the ground (green) wire from the surge strip onto the ground post on the GFCI (You have 2 wires on the ground on the GFCI now, right?).
    
16. Attach the bottom half of the switch to the top half. It just snaps in place.
    
17. Put your fittings on your pump & mount it and the wood it's sitting on to the toolbox by drilling holes through the wood/bottom of the toolbox & using bolts/nuts. In mine, I only used 2 of the 4 bolts on the pump base & 1 additional one to secure it to the bottom of the box.
    
18. Screw the GFCI/outlet cover into the box.
    
19. Plug your pump into the surge protector.
    
20. Close everything up, apply electrical tape where appropriate. The light on the switch will come on when pressed & anything plugged into the surge strip will get powered (the pump will start). The GFCI outlet has power with a small indicator light that tells you it's properly grounded as soon as the box is plugged in.
    
    Switch overview in brief:
    
    

• X1 - Neutral load from GFCI -> X1 & surge protector
  
• X2 & 24 - Hot from surge protector
  
• 23 - Hot load from GFCI
  
  Note about using step bit: It kicks out pretty hard when you move between steps. My wrist hurts today from it binding up a bit between steps and torquing my wrist.
  
  I did submit this yesterday, but the link that imgur provided was giving 404 errors when you viewed it, so I deleted that post & resubmitted.

These wire strippers are amazing. They save me so much time!

IRWIN Tools VISE-GRIP Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8-Inch (2078300) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tRzcvb0NA9RNA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tRzcvb0NA9RNA

I wonder how the Katapult compares to the cheaper but highly-rated Irwin model.

thanks for the reply... i have strippers that go down to 6awg, i was just wondering what folks recommend for lower gauge and/or faster speed (like this self-adjusting stripper, but for 4/6/8 gauge)

Something like this. Makes stripping so easy that a child could do it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EZTOAbT5TCC02

22 AWG stranded wire is pretty standard for wiring anything.

i usually buy these, as they're a good price, 2 day shipping w/ prime, and its a nice multi color kit, which helps when wiring...in case you have to trace the wire back to the board when debugging. plus everyone likes colors:

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Stranded/dp/B00B4ZQ3L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Hook-Wire-Solid/dp/B00B4ZRPEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418566941&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+kit

use shielded wire (with the 'shield grounded') for any audio signal inputs/outputs if you get noise. not 100% necessary, but might be worth it in the end for the sound quality and reducing any noise.

i also recommend you get a real wire stripper. this one is the bees knees:

http://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1418567132&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+stripper

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

If you don't want to wait, and have some network cable lying around, you can just use the wires inside the network cable. The wires are just the right gauge, and they're color coded, so they are perfect for handwiring keyboards.

Here's what mine looks like done using network cable: https://imgur.com/a/P0W7sIP (I have later moved the pro micros and organized the wires to the pro micros a bit better). I removed the insulation using a self-adjusting wire stripper.

Note that the two bottom images (1, 2) on the page you linked to show a row-driven wiring diagram, while the rest of the images use column-driven wiring. So make sure to only follow one set of images.

For (bigger) diagonal cutters/pliers, I think the most BIFL are NWS with their "Titan finish". Knipex is a fairly close second, but I like the finish on NWS better. Both can handle hard and medium hard wire (including nails and screws) without a problem, unlike most Klein, Snap-On, etc. The biggest issue is finding NWS in the US. The NWS Fantastico Plus are the best diagonal cutters I've ever laid my hands on.

For precision cutters/pliers, Xuron. They're semi-flush (Xuron call them flush, but I'd still call them semi-flush) micro sheer cutters are great but thankfully don't seem to nick up easily like (Xcelite, Snap-On, etc.) flush cutters do. I like the ones with that are ESD safe, with extra long handles, and the lead retainer best if you're going to be populating a lot of circuit boards. Otherwise, their cheaper models are just as nice.

Wiha precision screwdrivers. I've given this set as a gift before. Wera for the bigger stuff if you need it. Wiha or Wera bits (only larger sizes, I've never found precision bits I've particularly liked).

Klein to fill in gaps.

Bondhus hex keys.

Find a nice used Fluke multimeter on eBay. 89IV go for under $200 and have pretty much identical features to the 189 (believe the 189 mostly just has a bigger inductance/capacitance range). Most universities will have someone tasked with calibration/maintaining the measurement equipment. Make friends and he'll probably calibrate it for you/teach you how/just let you jump in and try. Mine was falling out of the box after UPS drop kicked it to my door, but the calibration was still super boring as nothing needed adjustment.

Hakko or Weller soldering station. Easy to find tips, especially for Weller. WESD51 dropped to $99 on Amazon a couple times in the last year, great time to scoop one up for little more than the analog version. The Stahl Tools one Amazon sells is also good for dirt cheap, but not really BIFL; good luck on finding tips. Metcal is too rich for my blood, but if you ever happen across one that is cheap.

Kester "44" solder, accept no substitute. 63/37 or 60/40, but since the spool will last you half a lifetime, I'd probably go with the 63/37.

I have a love/hate relationship with wire strippers. Something like this usually gets the job done, but sometimes you'll get wire with a strange jacket size and they'll fail. For the automatic kind, this style works ok (especially if you adjust it to what you're stripping), but I usually like this style better; again, as long as the jacket isn't too small and you wire is in the right range. Sadly, I probably most often grab for cheapies like this. The adjustment screw is great if you have to do a lot of a certain size, but I tend to free hand them. It takes quite a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, it's the fastest. Thermal wire strippers are just too pricey for the home user, especially if you want to do PVC, teflon, etc. jacketed wire.

I also have a love/hate relationship with crimpers. I have some crimpers I got for Anderson Powerpole connectors from West Mountain Radio (largely because I couldn't believe how cheap they are-- connector-specific crimpers are usually many times the price they charge) and they were great for the Powerpoles. I even bought some of the other die sets, but I've been less happy with those. I often end up using a similar pair to these or the die on a pair of Klein lineman's pliers for the larger crimps.

I just got the Irwin wire strippers that I've heard good reviews on. Only ~$20 and man they're awesome.

Also if you are doing alot of electrical work.

These are very useful tools.

IRWIN VISE-GRIP 2078300 Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Kj0rDbPFT84GB


2-in-1 Interchangeable Rapi-Driv Screwdriver Klein Tools 67100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak0rDbVZ5C5BV

Also buy a small roll of romex. To use in pigtails and jumpers.

like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/?coliid=I3SZYGQY60UGV8&colid=2SRZ1IXGMHXZB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

does it push the wire off the end? so like i could just keep making the stripped areas and then itll all just be cut off on the end?

I just use a pair of these.Not the best but they do the job.

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

I have these and LOVE them.

I have had these for quite a while. Finishing up re-wiring about 80% of my Ericson 39-B. I'll never go back to the cheap crimpers and strippers...these take a lot of the menial frustration out of involved re-wiring projects.

Ratcheting Crimper

Self-adjusting wire stripper

I would also advise a set of knee pads!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/

26g is such a pita, I feel for you. I have used a lighter before. Its not the cleanest but its the easiest way with I have found to make sure I don't slice any of the strands.

Edit: woops. Let me explain. I use a lighter to heat up some metal like a needle or paper clip. Then take the hot metal and score around the wire then pull the sheathing off

I have this wire stripper that I used for speaker wires, is that the same thing as a crimper? Do I need something more precise for the tiny wires inside these cables? I remember adding RJ45 ends in school when I was a kid, I can probably relearn from YouTube.

EDIT: Got it, a crimper is something entirely different from a stripper.

Ask the current owner if they will leave the TV mount for you, you can even offer to pay/buy them another one if they decline. With that already in place you could probably lift it yourself, if you get an LED LCD, or find someone to help lift it, no skills required.

Speakers are incredibly easy to hookup, you just cut wire to length, pull the two ends apart a bit, strip the ends, stick it in the holes, and tighten. A youtube video and a few practice strips will make it a breeze in no time even if you've never used tools. You'll need these wire cutters, and optionally these auto-strippers, and some wire.

As far as your setup goes you could get the following, or anything similar:

TV $785 - 50" Samsung LED

Receiver $310 - Denon AVR1913

Subwoofer $280 - Newegg has the Klipsch RW-12D for $280 until 5/22.

L/R speakers ~$300- Polk or Pioneer towers from Newegg

Center ~$150- A matching Polk or Pioneer center from Newegg

Surrounds - none yet; the wiring would require some drilling to conceal, if you have a crawl space going under the floor would probably be your best bet.

Adjust as needed to fit your budget or to get any features you want; pushing closer to $2000 and installing it yourself would be best.

EDIT: I forgot to add that tower speakers just stand on the floor, no mounting required. The center channel will just sit on the top shelf of whatever entertainment center you have under the TV, put it flush with the front edge of that. You will also need a single RCA cable to connect the subwoofer to the receiver, you may have one already, any RCA cable will work, or you can buy a 10ft+ one for ~$8.

Anyone have any experience with this Irwin crimper? im starting to get serious about doing more electronics projects and want something inexpensive and durable.

As the stripping goes, I use one of those 'self-adjusting' strippers, and they have pretty much changed my life:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/

Video in action: https://youtu.be/o9EdPiEoXM0?t=50 He only shows large solid-core wires, but it's just as slick and easy for small stranded wire too.

Get this for a wire stipper, totally worth every penny. Especially if your going ot keep it around.

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

better than these? https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Self-Adjusting-Stripper-2078300/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=lp_553398_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=150169786
ive had no trouble with this style of stripper

depending on what type of work you're doing, I prefer these:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

but depending on whether or not you're doing work with aerospace stuff or REALLY tough insulation (fireproof etc) the pair I'm suggesting either won't be allowed or wont make clean strips.

Not really. I just use these and sometimes have to just hold the clamp tight with my fingers.

Get this one, or a similar one. I bought one from MAC Tools when I was a tech, don't know what I paid, but I've never once regretted it.
IRWIN VISE-GRIP 2078300 Self-Adjusting Wire Stripper, 8" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FlWOAbA5745J2

Without knowing what he's already got it's hard to say. He's probably already got all the basics. I'm just assuming he's already got boardsaws, tape measures, screwdriver sets, plier sets and so forth.

I'll list off a couple of things I would rather not live without:

[Irwin wire strippers] (http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-2078300-Self-Adjusting/dp/B000OQ21CA) These are totally awesome.

[Non contact voltage detector] (http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449993757&sr=1-3&keywords=Non+contact+voltage+detector)

Stubby ratchet screwdriver

Magic if you're working on smaller cables

You're going to need speaker wire over all else. A pair of electrical pliers come in very handy if you're going to do more electrical work...if not then just a stripper would do you fine. I would go for the pliers but that's just me.
If you're hooking in a computer/iPod you'll need a 3.5mm to RCA cable. If you're doing a DVD/Blu-Ray or Roku you'll need some HDMI cables. If you're going from the TV/Cable box you'll probably need an optical cable. If you want to get the AVR on the network and you have a wired port available you'll need an ethernet cable. If you can I would recommend it so you can get the updates online and use the app to control the AVR.

that should work. I honestly don't think mine is the best though, it feels a little shoddy but it got the job done.

https://www.amazon.ca/Capri-Tools-CP20012-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B01018CYV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491433643&sr=8-2&keywords=wire+stripper

and

https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1491433643&sr=8-6&keywords=wire+stripper

should also work.

Yeah, save you the embarrassment of asking for vice grips and getting handed This

> Do yourself a favor and get an automatic wire stripper. That way you can set a consistent length for stripping and get a bunch done at once.

Something like this? Any specific recommendations?

Thanks!

I used a vise grip to strip the wiring. You can also just burn off the insulation with the soldering iron but that's more difficult and smells bad if your fume flume isn't perfect.

Buy a tool of the correct gauge or use a razor. You aren't going to be able to do a job without tools

I bought this thing.

They come in many flavors but I have this. It's a self adjusting or automatic wire stripper. They make life easy stripping normal wire ends but they also allow you to strip mid wire quite easily. The same thing can be accomplished with a normal wire stripper it just takes a little more effort.

Self-adjusting wire strippers are amazing, but may be expensive for a single-use tool. Here is a cheaper version.

First of all, amazing. Second of all, how are you not platinum?

And I have to agree with your general thoughts on soldering. When I ended up using every io on my teensy and I didn’t have a short or cross, I almost jumped for joy. I know I at least stood up, fists in the air. It was so ugly but damn if it didn’t work.

The trick, in the end, was flux and a heavier duty mask : ) it’s like congealed magic poison but in a good way!

And, ya know, I ended up using the too large straight tip I had on my last project as well. I had just figured I’d have to use this one for something so fine. Sounds like I might like and have as much luck with a finer straight tip. I was finding that it was hard to keep those fine tips clean though. Hoping the lower temps were part of that.

And I’m absolutely going to try the hot air station. Let’s face it. I’m going to pretty much try every one of your suggestions, from leaded solder to 28 gage wire. You seem like someone who is passionate about this stuff and knows what you’re taking about. That’s a winning combo in my book. I’ve just gotta get past my fear of melting lead close to my face.

One last question: have you found any solid core 28 gage wire that is worth a damn? The best I’ve found is this 30 gage wire . It’s okay but it came in such a rats nest.

Finally, I’m going to attempt to give back a little. You’re probably already aware of this device but it has been a godsend. Are you familiar with this Irwin Vice Grip Wire Stripper. I’d used similar devices before and found them to be more trouble than they are worth. These, though, are amazing. Truly. Barely ever have to adjust. They strip most small electronics wire (10-24) in one fluid motion with zero adjustment. Sometimes I have to tighten but it’s rare. Really one of my favorite tools of all time.

And, again, thank you for taking the time to give such helpful suggestions. I’ll be referring back to this often.

These wire strippers. They are awesome.

Just about every hand-tool manufacturer has their brand attached to these. This one seems like it has the most trust on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-2078300-Self-Adjusting-Stripper/dp/B000OQ21CA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526925570&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+strippers+self

if you can find a more reputable brand like knipex that has them and you want to pay for german engineering, I'd recommend it.

Vise-grips is under the stanley black&decker umbrella so YMMV with quality. Everyone else looks like they use the same or similar manufacturer based on the lack of much discernible difference apart from the handles