Reddit reviews Kaytee Silent Spinner Wheel, Giant 12"

First of all, realize they are nocturnal animals. He or she will be up ALL NIGHT and they are very active creatures, and if you are not also a night owl, this might bother you. Consider getting a large wheel like this one. They have long tails that can get stuck in the bars of hamster wheels, and they'll run on this thing all night long if you ignore them so the silent part is key. Yes, they need a lot of space, ideally the larger the enclosure the better. If you only have one or two sugars you can opt for a large bird cage or small reptarium (like a terrarium, but for reptiles) but any more than that, and you start looking at really expensive cages. They'll also enjoy large hamster or guinea pig balls to roam around the house. The more toys, the more space, the more attention the better.


Secondly, they are exotic and require a lot of care. Their diets are very specialized and you'll have to make a lot of it from scratch and provide a lot of fresh fruit and insects. They are marsupials, they require certain vitamins and minerals to remain healthy and free of disease. A common disease for sugars is something called HLP, hind leg paralysis. Because of this they need foods high in calcium... You'll need to learn to make BML food, the instructions and ingredients for which can be found here They also love fresh fruits, a good list can be found here You can go to any local bait shop and pick up bugs for them, my sugar really liked crickets and mealworms. I ended up keeping a small cage full of crickets and a small cup of mealworms in the fridge, in addition to the BML in the freezer, and fresh fruit, honey and snacks for feedings.


Food, aside from nourishment is a great opportunity for bonding. They like applesauce or yogurt and will eat it from the tips of your fingers. Its a good idea to start them young with these behaviours so they learn your scent, and are less prone to bite. He or she will enjoy eating with you, and they will appreciate getting treats or insects straight from your hands. Aside from bonding with food, scent bonding is key. Sugar gliders, like ferrets, have scent glands in their heads and bodies. The males are stronger scented than females, but they will mark their territory and you, and will look for your scent as well. I used small squares of cloth that I had slept with or kept under my pillow for several days. I'd put this in his nest box or pouch (obviously, marsupials sleep in pouches, yet another thing to research or a fun DIY sewing project) and he'd sleep with it, growing accustomed to my smell. Feeding them by hand and scent bonding are both important to start on when they are young.


TL;DR they're just REALLY different from any other pet you've probably ever had. Do the research and really think about whether or not this type of work is for you.


I hope you or anybody else who read all that found this comment helpful :)

Okay, lessee.. note: info overload coming..

Good bedding types are 100% recycled cat litter, there are only a few which don't contain harmful phenols, those are back2nature, yesterday's news and carefresh. Carefresh should be frozen beforehand to kill any possible mites. Don't use wood shavings/chippings, most are made from pine and that's harmful to the babes.

Don't use shampoo with them, if you must, get pet shampoo that doesn't contain phenols. I haven't actually washed mine and I've had them 7 months. Girls don't get very smelly and groom themselves. I occasionally add a small drop of pure olive oil to their food which keeps their fur shiney. You can add a drop directly to their fur, rub it in and they'll groom it out. The best way to keep them clean, is to teach them to go pea-fishing :D Start off with a small container with a small bit of water and build up from there. Always let them approach the water themselves and entice them with peas.

Don't feed them too many naughty treats, they're actually really easy to treat, my girls will do anything for a bit of chicken and they love peas.

Their diet.. now this is a tricky one. Lots of fresh veg, a small bit of fruit and a small bit of protein and lots of cereal. There's any number of commercial feeds you can get, others can advise which are best, we don't get the good ones in my country. The pet shop you got them from.. eh... know nothing, sorry. Bird food and moist dog food are a horrible diet for rats! The seeds have no nutrients and the dog food has too much fat and protein (you might find they have runny poo because of it). The best bet is to make up your own. I feed my brats a version of the Shunamite diet. The Rat Lady's and Suebee's also come highly recommended.

Random other things you can feed them, any meats or fatty foods should be given sparingly: hard boiled egg (crack the shell to get it started, then watch the mayhem), cooked chicken bones, cooked plain chicken, fresh veg, tinned tuna, porridge made from water, mealworms, yoggies. Things to avoid: apple seeds, citrus fruits, uncooked sweet potato, soda, milk. This is not a definitive list. If I'm giving my babes something new I will generally google it first, which recently stopped me from giving them asparagus (apparently it makes their pee stink!).

Okay, what else.. TOYS! You don't need a wheel, but if you get one, go for a closed wheel with no gaps, ie: something like this. If you get the normal metal one their tails could get trapped. My girls get a lot of homemade toys, they love the inner rolls of toilet paper. If you give them some with the tissue still attached, they can use it as bedding. They love hammocks, there's so many ways to make them.

From your pics, they look a bit startled and are hiding in the corners, it might be an idea to give them some sort of shelter (a cardboard box) until they get used to their surroundings. This is a great guide in how to socialise them, basically, yoghurt on a metal spoon.

Oh, and did you know, rats can't vomit. So.. when you give them something new, they'll nibble a tiny bit, then go away and wait, if it doesn't make them sick, they'll come back and eat it. So, if your babes don't seem to be trying anything new, give them some time, that's just their natural instincts coming through!

Lastly, did you know you can litter train rats. Look for some youtube vids, but basically, use a different bedding to their cage, find their preferred corner, move their pellets in there and they'll pick it up. It'll never work for their pee though :/

You should aim to give them about an hour "free-roam" per day, this can be in a barricaded area. Remember, rats can jump quite high and they love chewing things, as some of my cables found out :/ Also, you won't be doing this for the first couple of days, let them settle in first.

Oh, and the first thing you should teach them is to come when called, use treats to get this (my girls will race for bits of bran flakes), it's a lifesaver when they get lost/stubborn!

Let me know if I forgot anything! :D

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006IK0PQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417282301&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40 thid is the link for it on amazon. It's 12 inches

Get a Superpet Silent Spinner. Not cheap, but quiet.

yeah that is a big concern! Wire can cause fractured/broke feet and toes! I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/Super-Pet-Chinchilla-12-Inch-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372998518&sr=8-1&keywords=silent+spinner that one. Are you getting girls or boys? OH! and if you want a lot of people cover the shelves with fleece for easy clean up/soft cuddle spots. I personally don't with that cage since the shelves are smaller. Just something to consider!
And another thing my rats like are http://www.amazon.com/Lava-Ledge-Attachment-Chinchilla-Habitat/dp/B00176F466/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2 I like to put one up and then a hanging toy above it. It just adds another little thing for them to use.

It may be an option. Other wheels don't seem big enough for rats I'm my opinion. Make sure you get the large size like this one : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Superpet-Spinner-12-inch-Various-Colours/dp/B0006IK0PQ

(It can either be used with the frame or you can remove the frame and attach it to the cage)

That does look too small. I did the exact same thing - even the exact same wheel! - and had to upgrade. I ended up buying the same brand but the next size up (the one that is usually marketed for ferrets). If you can fit that one in the cage you have, I highly recommend it. I was worried at first that my girl would have a hard time with it being so big and potentially heavy, but she runs in it like crazy.

Edit: The one I got was this one http://www.amazon.ca/Kaytee-12-Inch-Silent-Spinner-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ

http://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-12-Inch-Silent-Spinner-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ <-- I got something like this, it is not so silent though, but something like this size is good

1- Always adopt more than one!

Rats are very social animals, and to prevent undue stress and sadness, they need to have rattie friends with which to spend their time. Also, try to adopt same-sex pairs/groups to avoid accidental litters; if you must adopt rats of different genders, make sure one of them are ‘fixed’ before housing them together. It’s also a good idea to get littermates, as they’ll already be familiar with each other, and they’ll be the same age, which becomes significant as they age and pass on.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend trying to find a reputable rat rescue near you before going to a pet store or breeder. There are SO MANY loveable, beautiful rats out there that were rescued from bad conditions and need loving homes. Breeders often supply reptile owners with feeders, and many don’t keep their rats in good conditions or socialize them properly. Same with pet stores. A lot of times, female pet store rats will even end up pregnant because someone didn’t keep them away from the males. There are several Facebook groups and websites with area-specific rescue groups that can point the way for you to find your babies.

2- Make sure your cage type is right!

Rats, like humans, need their personal space. If you cram too many in too small a space, you’ll get stress and fighting. Use a cage dimension calculator like this one to make sure the cage you’re looking at buying is big enough for the number of fur babies you’re going to get (2-3 is a good starting number.) also important is the distance between the cage bars, especially if you’re going to adopt young rats. Remember, anything they can fit their head through, they can fit the rest of their body through if they really want to. Try to get a cage with no more than 1/3-1/2inch of space between the bars.

Rats are also climbers- while a single-story unit would be fine for a rabbit or guinea pig, it’s important for rats to have multiple levels and platforms on which to live and play.

DO NOT use a glass tank. Rats are prone to upper respiratory infections, and they also pee quite a lot. This wouldn’t be an issue, except rat pee is high in ammonia, which is bad for them to breathe in. Tanks just can’t get the proper level of ventilation to be a good home for rats, even with daily cleanings; they might look cute, but for your babies’ sake, stick with a cage.

Make sure your cage has smooth floors. Rats, like most other pawed animals, have little pads on their feet. They’re also quite sensitive, and prone to getting their toes caught. Make sure that any mesh or wire platforms in your cage are covered with a hard, smooth surface so that your rats can walk/run/jump around comfortably.

3- Essentials

Rats are prey animals, so their instincts drive them to hide and nest; make sure you give them lots of places to hide away, like little houses, nests, baskets, and hammocks. Places up high are a favorite among my girls.

Make sure you have an constant, ample water supply. I recommend having a couple of water bottles, or a bottle and a dish- just in case they finish one off during the day, they’ll have plenty more to make it until you get home and notice that one’s empty. I personally keep a dish with dry rat food full in the cage as well, to make sure they’re never hungry.

Fleece liners or other bedding options are also important- rats aren’t very good at regulating their body temperatures, so giving them a means to keep warm is important. Fleece covers over the trays (I use blankets cut to shape and pinned with binder clips) or bedding spread liberally over the bottom of a deeper pan is important for this.

Exercise wheels are also a good idea; get the biggest one you can- it’s not good for them to have their backs/tails bent at too far an angle. A saucer wheel is perfect, but my girls wouldn’t run on the one I gave them, so I got them this one

Also, not quite essential, but- rats are über smart, and can be litterbox trained! Giving them a litter box and training them to use it will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to cleaning their cage every week.

4- Toys and decorations

Like I said before, rats are smart! They need mental stimulation. Puzzles, toy balls, and hanging bird toys are all great ideas. There are also a ton of diy toy ideas on the Internet in places like Pinterest. A lava rock ledge or a brick in the cage will help them keep their claws trim, and provide a convenient step-up into a hide. Try to stay away from soft woods, and keep with hardwood toys and shelters.
As for decor; they’ll probably regularly chew through the fleece you give them, so it’s easy to switch up the cage aesthetic whenever you want :) you can also cut up the old fleece into bits and give it to them as bedding to nest with, too.

This is my girls’ cage after it was mostly-clean yesterday (I did the top level later on.) I know the image is potato-quality, but you’ll probably be able to see the water bottles, hammocks, hides, and wheel :) their food dish is stashed behind the purple ramp next to the wheel haha

You might also notice the boxes in the top level; cardboard boxes are a great thing to put in their cages; it’s a chew toy and a hide all in one! You’ll need to replace them regularly, of course, but things like soda boxes and tissue boxes are great cage additions.

5- Cleanliness

It’s important to clean your rats’ cage weekly, at least, and twice weekly if they’re hairless (hairless are more prone to uri’s.) Personally, I wipe down the bars with baby wipes (or soap and water if they really need it) and clean the pans with soap and water. As for all of the hammocks and fleece, I toss it in the washing machine with my own clothes (no fabric softener or dryer sheets) and also make sure to beat them out (like a rug) so they’re as clean as possible before putting them in the laundry. I also wash all of their plastic toys, dishes, and wheels with soap and water, making sure to rinse them well so there’s no residue.

It’s rare, but sometimes your rats will need some help getting clean. When my girls were younger, there came a point where they smelled like pee and they had porphyrin all over their fur from their own cleanings; at that point, I prepared a thick towel and some warm water, and washed each of them with oatmeal baby soap, making sure to avoid their faces and ears (as you would with a dog or other pet) and immediately afterward cuddled them in the towel until they were dry enough that I felt like they wouldn’t be too cold in their cage. My SO was a big help with that stage.

6- Nutrition

Rats need a varied diet. Depending on where you look, you get different percentages, but personally what I do is leave a bowl full of dry food in their cage and top it off as needed, and every night (or, being real, every other night) when I get home and make my dinner, I make a plate for them and load it up with a bed of kale, sliced or canned vegetables, berries, a sprinkle of oats or nuts (I have some petite babies and I’m trying to help them gain weight) and some chicken or turkey baby food; sometimes I’ll even put some fruit baby food on there as well- they absolutely love it. For protein I’ll also sometimes do scrambled eggs or chicken that I’ve shredded up post-cooking, instead of poultry baby food (baby food is just the easiest thing for me to do) :) these guys give a comprehensive list of foods that are safe for rats, and when in doubt, google it before feeding it to them. Male rats generally have more dietary rules than females, so watch out for that with them.

7- Playtime!

Every single day, your rats will need at least an hour of playtime with you. Just like we were told as kids “get out and play an hour a day” this is really important for their mental and physical health. This could be anything from a free-roam in a rat-proof room, or just running around on the bed while you watch a movie. This is also a great time for you to teach them some tricks (there are plenty of tutorials on the web for how to train them 😊) or set up a little play area for them complete with toy houses and things to explore and treat-laden puzzles for them to solve. For treats, my girls love yogies, nuts, and dried fruit :)

Ours super love to run on their wheels (they are like this type https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Silent-Spinner-Giant-Exercise/dp/B0006IK0PQ ). And for bedding, we use corn cob bedding. It's supposedly very good for them because it does not have dust and is therefore better for their noses:). Do you think yours would be allergic to that?

They need a wheel in their tank to run in which MUST be a closed face wheel, not the open wire mesh type.




https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0006IK0PQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title




That's the one we got, the 30.5cm version and he runs on it all the time.

She is a dumbo!

I haven't played or done much more than get the girls food since about Wednesday last week (with Thanksgiving and being sick myself .... ). It is possible that she's had this for a couple of days. I think I would have noticed her limping before last night, and the bald spot is decently large, but it is possible that she had the problems for a day or so before I noticed.

I did a basic check last night and I was going to do a more in depth one now (since now it's light outside and I can see a bit better anyway). I didn't see any signs of mites or fleas last night, however (and the others aren't showing any signs of them), and only a couple of scratches that are healing and that I was aware of.

This is the cage, or pretty close to it (some things are moved around or different - I bought a different wheel and last night the "tightrope" was more like a U or a swing - they rarely bother doing anything regarding it anyway). The idea that she fell isn't far off - she often jumps from the lower of the two hammocks to the top-most balcony, and she doesn't always make it. Also, the flooring isn't ideal (I'm working on changing that) - being 1/2" square mesh, but it doesn't quite seem small enough for her to get her arm stuck in.

The last time I fixed up the cage was a week and a half ago (and it needs it again, I've been putting it off). Usually when I do that I tend to breakdown everything and clean it with this stuff. I haven't used a bleach solution since I first put the cage and girls together - back in March.

I wouldn't be surprised if she got into a fight. One of the other girls - Anise - often beats on Moe when she gets hormonal (so every couple of days), and I've definitely seen her aggressively "grooming" that spot on Moe's neck after a tiff.

Patti's a year old and she took to it like crazy, but the other rats (both younger – 6 months and 3 months) haven't really gotten the hang of it. If you get a wheel and they don't use it, you'll eventually have rats that do. This the the brand and size I have, and I'd recommend it. It's quiet and you can either use the stand or attach it to the cage wall.

Get a Kaytee wheel. It’s cheap, can attach to cage and spins silently: Kaytee Spinner, Giant Wheel, 12 Inch (Colours Vary) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0006IK0PQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UgQxDbHRBGAB7