Reddit reviews Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter

If you are spending $500 on a subwoofer, it's time for a new receiver with an RCA sub out connection and subwoofer bass management.

Best value, DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2-Ch $599 $299. 4K HDR HDMI, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.

If you really have to temporarily continue using an outdated home theater in a box receiver, Kicker KISLOC Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter $20.

Then i wouldnt worry about it, occasionally some cars come with a stock sub on the roof of the trunk. heres the link https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3VY4QP19C1I95&keywords=high+to+low+level+converter+car+audio&qid=1555692943&s=gateway&sprefix=high+to+low+le%2Caps%2C351&sr=8-4 also are you doing it yourself? It might be a hassle but i did it myself too just watch a lot of videos.

Then I would use one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526374993&sr=1-1&keywords=kicker+line+output+converter

With one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Audio/dp/B07942M4MC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526375058&sr=1-2&keywords=mono+amplifier+home

Probably better to get a real sub down the road, as this is just a "get by" sort of setup. But it will give you some cheap thump if you've got a passive sub laying around.

You can just stab the meter leads into the speaker wires. You don't have to actually connect them together.

But yes. Multimeter leads----> LOC-----> RCA to 3.5 -----> iPhone/iPad. I'd recommend this LOC, because I know it's extremely flat response/sonically neutral. Also, if you really want to be safe OR already have an RCA to 3.5mm that you can reuse, pick up one of these. That will do two things. First, attenuate the signal down into your iPhone/iPad. And second, trigger the microphone input on the iPad/iPhone.

Mic band. I just meant you need a 4-pole 3.5mm connection. One with a mic line. Look closely at the pictures shown for the line level adapter I linked you to.

What you are saying is that you have only an amplified subwoofer out on your amplifier that drives a passive unit only? Your subwoofer does not have speaker level inputs?

Well you can purchase a line level converter and adjust it according for a high impedance low signal input amplified subwoofer unit.

Like this

In your case just use one half of the stereo converter and ignore the other side. There are many versions available in all price ranges.

Cool, that helps a lot thanks, I was hesitant about finding straight adapter cables for it. :) I do use my headphone port so I was looking to have something in the backside, I ordered this little booger after checking out a few different ones, the next best one recommended was $100 more, so...I'll try this first.

If it blows the speakers, well that would suck but I guess that's just how it goes.

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...

Accessories:

• Ford ST Heavy Duty Floor Mats (I live in a snowy climate)
  
• Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12in Subwoofer (600w RMS) w/ Rockford Fosgate Prime Amplifier(Class-D 1200w) + Speaker to RCA converter
  
• no-pistons Dead Pedal, Battery Tie Down and Gas Pedal Spacer (not sure if still available but I have access to a water jet and a machine shop so I might make my own)
  
• Rally Armour Mud Flaps (helps with the salt and grit from plow trucks in the winter)
  
• Tow Hitch + Cobb Exhaust Hanger Kit
  
  Step 1:
  
  
• Cobb AP with Stratified tune
  
• Green drop-in filter
  
  Step 2:
  
  
• Cp-e RMM
  
• Boomba Transmission Adapter Plate (short-shift)
  
• Boomba Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings
  
  Step 3:
  
  
• Cp-e Front Mount Intercooler w/ Stratified tune
  
• Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers
  
  Step 4: (all maybes)
  
  
• Turbo-back Exhast (not sure which yet)
  
• Cp-e Ram Air Box
  
• Velossatech Ram Air Intake
  

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/sa-103.shtml

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFHLC-Speaker-Signal-Adapter/dp/B009VTDVMU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

You have the option to use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uBHaAb3Y593VX
You can daisy chain from your rear speakers or splice into the speaker wire. This device will convert that rear speaker line into an RCA line so you can run an amp. They work really well, the downside is that your sub woofer controls will be affected by any changes you make to the rear speakers. But if you play with the amp, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. And yes, your rear speakers will work as normal.

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

See that's the problem. That's a single RCA plug.

You basically need to find an output of the amp that is variable with the amp volume. The only output that is this is the speaker outputs.

Your subwoofer doesn't have speker-level inputs, so you need to convert them with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCQSW3E/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

You plug the kicker into the L+R channel speaker tabs (along with your speakers) and then plug the Y-Cable into it. Then plug the single end of the y cable into the sub. Adjust the sub gain to your liking.

My idea is to attach this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_aBWVCbATTANSN, to the B channel of the Insignia receiver to attach to my AVR in the basement.

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!

I'm sure this is getting to the point where we're starting to toss practicality out the window and I should just get a reciever with a pre out, but would it work to get one of these line to RCA adapters designed for stock car head units and plug that into something like the Dayton wireless adapter? Even I'm cringing, so I'm guessing it isn't advisable.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC

Thank you. That's basically what I needed to know - that such a thing existed. I've purchased a couple of these on Amazon for $8.33 each:

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter

Hi Guys, I am new to this Vinyl world. I recently just bought a Pro Ject Debut Carbon with Pro Ject Phono MM...

I also just recently got my ELAC B5 Bookshelf speakers. The problem is that my speakers only take Speaker Wires and does not take RCA. Whilst my Phono Box MM only takes RCA and not Speaker Wires. I am new to this thing. Any help? Should I buy a Speaker Wire to RCA adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497481576&sr=8-4&keywords=wire+to+rca

Something like this?

Any help would be appreciated

You can do something cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-2&keywords=line+out+converter

or expensive with adjustment:

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-4&keywords=line+out+converter

its the kicker line out convert off of amazon

So basically the line out converter comes with 5 wires, 2 right wires, 2 left wires and 1 ground wire.

so essentially, if youre connecting to your rear speakers then you connect to the 2 right wires to the right rear speaker and 2 left wires to the rear left speaker. this requires you to cut the rear speaker wire though.

if your car comes with a stock sub, then you can simply connect the lineout to the stock sub and then to your amp. that way u can control the sub level from your headunit.

That's right, derp. I'm going to go ahead and say that's just not the right sub for that setup.

You're right though some variant of this will work, biwiring to both the device and the speakers. I doubt Sonic will be fine with that though, so like I said it's not the right sub for his setup.

Or do I need the version with pre-out? https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HEGESS0GF1Z6Z3B9PS40

The stock radio doesn't have a sub out so you'll need to buy a converter and splice it into the wires to the two front woofers. Here's one I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_50mvDb2307B0E