Reddit Reddit reviews Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

We found 126 Reddit comments about Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sports & Outdoors
Hunting Equipment
Hunting & Fishing
Hunting & Tactical Knives & Tools
Hunting Knife Sharpeners
Sports & Fitness
Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
Deluxe 5-stone knife sharpening system for kitchen, outdoor, hobby, or garden knivesIncludes extra-coarse, coarse, medium, fine alumina oxide, and extra-fine ceramic honesControlled-angle sharpening system with 17-, 20-, 25-, and 30-degree angle optionsColor-coded stones with finger-grooved safety holders; specially formulated honing oilIncludes precision-engineered knife clamp and custom-molded storage/carrying case
Check price on Amazon

126 Reddit comments about Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System:

u/Stormrider001 · 16 pointsr/BudgetBlades

The Spyderco Sharpmaker is a great knife sharpener to use. I believe it has 15 and 20 degree angles.

There is an alternative(and cheaper) Lansky Turnbox That sharpens at 20 and 25 degree angles. These two systems are great to travel with.


If you want a beginner sharpening system you could get a Lansky System but if you ever get higher end steels you will need to upgrade to Diamond system. You will also need to get a Lansky mount or clamp. It also has a wide variety of accessories and stones.


You can also get Fixed angle knife shapener that is like an apex edge. If uses the same stone size so you could order upgraded plate sets at a cheap price.

The system that I have been using is the 5th Gen Sharpener. It uses the same stones and plate size as an Apex as well. The only downside is the that it takes forever to arrive from china.

u/Shwingdom · 11 pointsr/Skookum

It's super nice. It's a gigantic Lansky. The one thing that bugs me, is he's holding a Cutco, which have a lifetime warranty in regards to literally everything including the edge, yet he said he just goes out and buys another one....... Yeah, $20 shipping is way cheaper than buying another cutco......

u/geetarobob · 9 pointsr/Survival

So buying a knife is completely subjective, if that Kabar suits your fancy then by all means purchase it. But here are some things you might want to consider for camping or general outdoor use:

  • That Kabar is a fighting knife. It is designed to be multifunctional but it is primarily designed for combat, same with the Seal Pup.

  • The handle on that Kabar is leather, which is fine, but it is one more thing that is susceptible to the elements that you will have to worry about.

    For what you're talking about doing any stainless Mora would suffice (I'm partial to this.) But if you want something substantial for under $70 I think you might check out any of Kabar's Becker series.

    Edit: For a sharpening system I really like this.
u/lethpard · 7 pointsr/knives

It takes away an excessive amount of steel. I've seen my in-laws grind away an decent butcher's knife in a couple of years that should have lasted a lifetime, and it doesn't do a very good job.

edit: The Lanksy jig system is another inexpensive alternative that requires little skill.

u/PoundTownUSA · 7 pointsr/interestingasfuck

I have a sharpening system that lets me choose one of four angles. It's branded as Lansky.

The second link is a stand for the knife clamp. It works really well to get super sharp edge, even without stropping.

u/drkaeppel · 7 pointsr/knives

There are a number of ways to get it sharp again. Instead of buying stones, some people use sandpaper glued/taped to a hard surface (a block of wood or brick..etc) and sharpen the same way you would with a stone. Lansky also has really effective sharpening systems that are reasonably priced.

u/Brotaoski · 7 pointsr/videos

May I recommend Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Works amazing and has a fool proof way for not fucking your angle up. There’s an add on stand item for like $5 that helps make the process even easier.

I have used it on my pocket knife and kitchen knives.

u/armchair · 6 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Lansky sharpening system can be had $35. You can get your stuff really sharp with that.

I don't have any brand recommendations for a set of whetstones or diamond stones, but you can easily spend something approaching $100 to get going.

And you can always use a piece of glass and wet/dry sandpaper to get stuff sharp. The method is called scary sharp iirc. Not really bifl though, you'll go through the abrasives.

u/EvilDoesIt · 5 pointsr/knives

I think the most idiot-proof sharpening methods are either the Lansky System or the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

I own both and I must say that I prefer the Sharpmaker more. It gets you to a shaving sharp edge in minutes. The Lansky takes more time but I think you will be able to get a sharper edge. More time meaning maybe hours for the initial reprofile.

If you want to learn to freehand, the Smith's Arkansas Tri-Hone is a cheap way to go to experiment. It gives you two decent sized Arkansas stones and a synthetic stone for just over $20.

u/Jonesaw2 · 5 pointsr/Charleston

Buy this. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Super easy.

u/desertsail912 · 5 pointsr/AskCulinary

I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.

u/jibberish_kid · 5 pointsr/knives

I have this. It is amazing. everything I own I can shave with.

u/scurviest · 5 pointsr/Survival

My opinion:

Don't buy that Smith's thing. Scrape together a few more pennies and get a Lansky or Gatco sharpener. E.g.

I have a Gatco that has 3 diamond and 1 ceramic hones but they work on the same principle. They are nearly foolproof and reliably produce insanely sharp knives. I put a 30 degree bevel edge on a machete that was sharp enough to shave with, cut down a tree with that machete, and in a few more minutes returned the edge (which was still pretty sharp) to that same scary sharp level...and I did it within minutes of unpacking the thing which means minimal learning curve for some of the best results I have seen.

u/mrflarp · 4 pointsr/knives

I wouldn't recommend using pull-through sharpeners. A set like the Lansky Deluxe or the DMT Aligner would be a better option. They have a easier learning curve than freehand sharpening.

For kitchen knives and pocket knives that are mostly doing slicing or push cutting, I'll aim for 20 dps in general, or if the steel can hold a stable edge at it, around 15-17 dps w/ 20 dps micro-bevel. For cleavers or choppers, something around 25 dps will hold up better. If you can, a convex edge will also hold up better for choppers.

As for the fire steel, don't use the sharpened edge of your knife for that. Use the spine. If the spine isn't squared off enough, use some sandpaper or a Dremel to create a small flat spot you can use for the fire steel.

u/Prospero424 · 4 pointsr/houston

If you're sharpening a fine, expensive blade, I can't stress enough that you should do it yourself. I used to send my knives out for sharpening with a handful of services, some of which were expensive and had excellent reputations. Sometimes they would come back great, sometimes they would come back absolutely BUTCHERED. One time it looked like they had sharpened it on the machine they used for lawn mower blades.

Anyway, there's no substitute for a good, multi-stone sharpening system. If you've got a lot of commodity blades to go through (like if you run a restaurant kitchen), by all means use a service or use a motorized sharpener like the Work Sharp (I own one and use it regularly).

But if you want the finest edge you can get and you want to really take care of a nice, expensive chef's knife; sharpening in a way that won't mar the appearance or take off too much metal each time (like the Work Sharp is known to do), a multi-stone kit is the way to go.

I've always used the Lanksy kits and absolutely love them. Here's an excellent general-purpose kit:

And don't worry, it's super easy to get the hang of. The guide included will take care of the angle for you, which is the hardest part. And there are short videos out there that detail the process, if you need them.

u/VaguePeeSmell · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

No. V sharpeners like this pull out the carbides in the steel out which means that it will lose its edge very quickly.

You want to use water stones or a guided system like a [Lansky sharpener](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/emjaysea · 4 pointsr/lansing

It's not true that we sharpen our own knives here in Michigan. Most of us just have dull knives. But you don't have to, you can buy one of these instead., and then watch this video showing how to use it.

Seriously, it's easy!

u/BrewerMan · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

I determined a few weeks ago that my knives were too dull and I wanted to sharpen rather than buy new ones. After much research I got this Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System and the Super Sapphire Sharpening Stone to add even more of an edge. I have sharpened 2 really crappy knives (no-name cheap ones from WalMart) with pretty incredible results. They are much, much sharper than new.

The system is very easy to use and ensures that you keep the same angle at all times. the one knife was very very dull and it took about an hour to get it to a point where I felt it was sufficiently sharp. Both knives I have sharpened with this system can easily pass the magazine paper test and can very easily shave hair off my arm.

u/ARKnife · 3 pointsr/knives

I also struggled with sharpening when I started until I got the Lanksy Sharpening System.

It's budget, super easy to use (in comparison to some other systems), pretty much universal and could be easily upgraded in the future.

I recommend getting the mount as well and practicing on cheaper knives first.

u/diversionmary · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

That's what /r/knifeclub is all about! Enjoy! Consider using that extra $30 for a lansky 5 stone sharpening system.

Edit: definitely check /r/knife_swap too. There are lots of great knives for cheap

u/Roketderp · 3 pointsr/knives

I'm not an expert either, just sharing some things I do.

Oils from your hands are technically bad for the steel, but it's not the end of the world. Wipe your knife with a cloth with a little bit of WD 40 every once and a while.

For sharpening, I like the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. I didn't think it would see much use, but now I sharpen my knives all the times. General consensus is that it's awesome for smaller knives, but sucks for big ones (anything over 5" in my opinion)

To get the little rust spots you mentioned out, just use some steel wool.

EDC knives are tools. They get used. Don't worry about if it's pretty or not. I use my SOG Trident for random things about every other day, and I have since I got it over a year ago. The Kershaw Skyline is an excellent knife.

Google "EDC Knife Care" and I'm sure you'll get tons more answers.

u/thingwrecker · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

I use this: and an old leather belt for a strop. My hands aren't steady enough for traditional stones and this seemed like the best bang for the buck.

u/CPTherptyderp · 3 pointsr/Cooking

What's your opinion on this kit? Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/Maximum_Ordinate · 3 pointsr/Hunting

Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).

Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.

Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.

Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.

Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

u/BarryHalls · 3 pointsr/knives

finish off with

If you find yourself sharpening a lot of different knives you'll want

it moves the steel faster (for changing the edge the first time) and the stone holds up longer.

Long story short, it gives perfect consistency and has the super fine stones for giving that polished razors edge. It makes sharpening anything UNDER 6" a dream.

For knives LARGER than 6" I use

with various ceramic belts from

It's also GREAT for doing convex conversions. Doing a flat grind on a concave edge takes a steady hand or a jig.

Practice on wood and scrap steel. You'll RUIN a blade in a HURRY with those coarse belts.

If the blade gets hot it will burn the steel and you will lose it's hardness. Dip it in cool water, dry with a towel, often. The tip is the most delicate part. Only grind for a second or two, then dip again.

u/SerenityNowPlzz · 3 pointsr/knives
u/RikVanguard · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I've had a lot of luck with the Lansky Sharpening system. I also recommend the little spindly mount if you don't have a vice. It isn't really necessary, but I find it makes sharpening a lot easier.

There are a lot of videos out there, but this is the one that helped me the most. I know it's not recommended to sharpen a knife by moving the stone backwards (from tip to handle) but I've tried to replicate his methods and had fantastic results.

That said, it takes some practice to develop a feel for how much pressure to apply and what motions to use. It took me about a month of not-really-sharpened knives to realize that I wasn't using anywhere near enough force with the coarser stones to form a burr. This guy outlines how to feel a burr pretty well (the whole video is a bit long, but definitely helps with some little tricks.) I also run my nail along the length of the blade to feel for a fully-formed burr.

Other than that, just keep practicing and trying new techniques, and find what is most comfortable and efficient for you.

u/bov-tye · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

You are very lost right now, it will all be okay.

First you need to understand what sharpening, honing, and maintaining are.

Sharpening = setting a bevel, restoring the edge
This includes taking out chips, reprofiling the blade ( reprofiling is taking the current edge angle and changing it, say 30° to 20°)

Honing = refining that edge and adding a micro bevel ( a micro bevel is adding a slightly more obtuse angle at the very edge, this increases wear resistance and improves performance )

Maintaining = stripping ( this can be done on most any porous material, well get back to stripping )


I don't recommend that someone new to sharpening start with bench stones, you can really mess up a blade if you don't follow the proper technique.

There are many systems that can do this whole bevel thing for you, you just need to follow the instructions.

This is a well regarded system that will reliably produce sharp, and consistent edges

Now, stripping;
Stripping is for when you roll an edge, or if it's not
Blunt enough for sharpening, it's also for refining the edge.
Stripping on leather is not always a good thing, leather is to some degree soft, it will give just a little and it can blunt the edge.

I personally strip on wood, there is little to no chance of blunting. I use basswood and pine.

> the higher grit the better...

Yes and no. It all depends on what you're cutting.
Some people love toothy edges ( not taken to a high grit)
While I love polished edged ( taken to high grits )

Bench stones are usually just larger.

My version is a little crappy, but check out /u/atomedge for a good one, Link for atomedge's guide

EDIT: I saw my mistake, I'm keeping it.

u/sandmansleepy · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

A couple whetstones is just about the simplest that you can do, one coarse and one fine. I like using traditional whetstones, and I get great results, but when I am lazy, I use a guided sharpening system of some kind. Pull through sharpeners destroy your blade, making nicks into bigger nicks. Don't use those. I use a spyderco sharpmaker or a lansky system when I am lazy, and for people who don't want to spend hours and hours getting good at freehanding with whetstones, these are probably the best options. Links are below.

If you have more questions, or are truly interested or into knives, come check out /r/knifeclub

u/barnacledoor · 3 pointsr/AskCulinary

I have to say that I avoided getting a wetstone for a while. I just bout this stone recently and found it was pretty easy to sharpen using it. To be fair, my knives were pretty beat up and dull before I sharpened them. So, I bought a pretty low grit stone. The only thing I'd recommend is getting something at least a little higher. Now that I've sharpened with both the 250 and 1000 sides once, it doesn't seem like the 250 side will be of much use anymore unless I want to change the edge angle entirely which is not likely.

It took about 10 minutes for my 8" chef knife and some other 5" knife that I found under my kitchen stove when I bought my house. :)

I've heard that the Lansky sharpening system is pretty easy to use, but the one common complaint is that it gets a bit tough for larger kitchen knives. There is a stone in it for serrated knives as well.

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 3 pointsr/EDC

It's definitely enough for a nice knife, though you might want to go a bit higher for a great knife. The KaBar BK2 is actually designed with things like batoning (hammering the knife through wood as a kind of faux hatchet using another piece of wood against the blade of the knife as the hammer itself) or chopping. It's a bit over $60, currently available for $69 to be precise, but as long as you don't flat out abuse it (prying heavy things, for example) it'll serve you well and quite possibly for the rest of your natural life.

At a lower price, you can get the Condor Bushlore, which at $35 is a perfectly valid choice that will serve you well indeed.

For an even lower price yet, the Mora Heavy Companion is from one of those few cheaper knife companies that does incredible work. I wouldn't baton with it, honestly, but even if you did it'd probably hold up just fine.

At a more expensive range, the Ontario Rat-5 is an amazing bushcraft knife. The Fallkniven Pilot Survival Knife is also an amazing knife. The Benchmade Bone Collector is spectacular knife made in D2 tool steel, one of the better steels available at that price. Another amazing knife is the Spyderco Bushcraft made in O1 tool steel. Finally, the Benchmade 162 is a pretty amazing knife.

One thing you'll notice about all of these knives with the exception of the Pilot Survival knife and the BM 162 is that they're all carbon steel knives. Carbon steel is a lot tougher than stainless (with a few very, very rare exceptions I'd never trust a long knife to be stainless steel) with the trade off of being a lot more of a hassle to take care of, since it needs to be regularly cleaned and oiled.

If you want a fire starter, carry a magnesium fire starter. With the carbon steel knives, you can probably strike it against the back of the blade to create the sparks you'll want and if not (like with some of the coated ones) you'll be carrying the striker anyway.

For sharpening, you'll want to get a decent sharpening setup and start stropping. A couple of easy sharpening systems would be the superior Spyderco Sharpermaker (usually available on Amazon around the $50 mark) or the Lansky Sharpening system which while cheaper isn't as good. You could take the time to learn how to free hand it, but most casual users don't care that much because it takes a long time to get proficient at freehand sharpening. Stropping is running the blade against something like smooth leather (usually smooth leather, actually) to remove burrs along the blade of a knife made by use and sharpening and the restore a blade to a better edge without removing metal. Stropping allows for a level of sharpness unachievable by sharpening alone and extends a knife's lifetime by allowing sharpness to be achieved for longer without removing metal from the blade. To learn how to strop, watch videos on YouTube or check out guides from the sidebar of /r/knives.

Finally, if you want a whistle, just carry a whistle. If you want a mirror for signaling, carry a small signaling mirror or mirror polish the knife you buy (a process where you sand the blade with increasing grit level sandpaper until it shines like the sun and you can see yourself in the blade).

If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

u/Kayanota · 3 pointsr/knives

If you are looking for a knife, head over to a site like this and just check out their sale/clearance blades. I linked to a stainless steel one that has a good shape for cleaning fish.

If he really is a knife guy, then he will have personal preferences, so a blade might not be the best.

I would suggest picking up a Mora HD Companion (~$20 with sheath) which is my all time favorite outdoor blade. A Custom Strop (~$45) there are a lot of custom makers of those here (see other comments) and a sharpening system (If he doesn't have one, a Lansky is an excellent field sharpener for ~$40, otherwise a 1k/6k stone for ~$30. )

u/the_names_Dalton · 3 pointsr/Austin

These Lanksy sharpening kits are legendary. I've used mine for years for both hunting & kitchen knives.

Here's an awesome instructional video for the Lanksy kit.

u/gordo1223 · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

I sharpen at home but my results are comparable to when I used a sharpening service.

This is the thread where I got my info. Like most of the egullet university articles, very high quality.

And this is the sharpener that I use. I started out with stones, but found that the guides on the Lansky setup make it much easier to set correct angles.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Both are highly recommended.

u/Rauldisco · 2 pointsr/knives

When cleaning a knife, don't use abrasives that will scratch the surface. Use water and soap and a towel, dry it completely with a dry towel, than use a good lubricant (WD40 is not recommended) to completely lubricate all of the moving parts of the knife. Be careful not to use too much lubricant or gunk will build up. Put some lubricant or oil on the blade to protect it from rust.
Next, you will need to know how to sharpen. Most of the people around here use either the Lansky Sharpening System, the Spyderco Sharpmaker, or freehand sharpening stones.
I use a set of free hand sharpening stones and a leather strop with a polishing compound to polish the edge. This is the edge of a knife I just sharpened today
As you can see, the edge is a mirror and is razor sharp. I taught myself how to sharpen and it is kind of hard to explain it in words because each of those systems for sharpening above use different methods of sharpening. Because you seem to be a beginner, I would recommend buying the Lansky System because it is less likely to mess up your edge than if you use free hand stones. Also, if you buy the Lansky, buy the stand for it as well.
After sharpening, oil the edge once again to protect it from rusting.
Remember to always keep as much moisture and liquid off the knife to prevent corrosion and always clean it with soap and water if it gets dirty.
Also, if you are interested in a leatherman, I recommend the Charge because even though it is pricey it is known as one of their best models.
I hope this all helps you!
EDIT: I also forgot to tell you not to use a knife outside of its intended purpose. It sounds like you tried prying with your previous knife, which ended up bending its tip. Never pry with a knife, next time it may break. Don't cut metal wire with a blade, use wire cutters. Don't use the edge a a screwdriver, that cause damage too. Remember to always use the correct tool for the job, which is beneficial for you because the leatherman will have many small tools.

u/missredd · 2 pointsr/knives

Fellow NJ'er. waves

I ordered the Lansky Deluxe 5-Hone Sharpening System and according to amazon, it should arrive today. I'm fucking excited to give it a try. I'm completely hopeless with sharpening stones.

u/piojo · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Absolutely. I think the shape of the shun's edge (its grind) makes it go through food a little more easily than our old chef's knife.

When the Shun knife arrived, it was the most scarily sharp blade I've ever seen, but it's been 4 or 6 weeks--while the Shun is still very sharp, I'm not sure it could still hold its own against a razor blade or X-Acto knife.

I just sharpened the old knife with this, and the Shun is still sharper, but now the old knife actually has a better edge for cutting tomatoes or bread (the cutting edge is a bit rough, and rough helps with certain types of cutting).

u/JaRay · 2 pointsr/Cooking

Having tried several methods sharpening pocket and kitchen knives the product i have enjoyed using the most is this one or this one I think I have the set with 4 stones.

It removes the guess work for the angle and evenly shaves off metal across the entire length of the blade.

u/AManAPlanACanalErie · 2 pointsr/chefknives

Yeah, in that case, one good chef's knife is the way to go.

At the sub $100 price range, here are my standard recommendations:

  • Victorinox Chef's Knife. This is a western style chef's knife, probably what you would imagine in your head if you said chef's knife. The blade geometry is great. Its a very easy knife to care for - its 100% synthetic handle doesn't mind getting soaked and the steel is very stain resistant. The steel is pretty soft, so its easy to sharpen to a serviceable edge. The down side - its steel is pretty soft, so you will need to sharpen it more often to get good performance out of it.

  • Tojiro White #2 series These are Japanese style knives (and made in Japan). They are entry level for hand forged knives. The fit and finish isn't the best (not terrible) but this is to kitchen knives what a Remington 870 is to shotguns or a 10 year old F150 is to trucks. Look at the Santoku or Gyuto style blades. Upside - I believe its hand forged, so warm fuzzies on that if it applies to you. Hard steel takes a better edge than the victorinox, and will need sharpened less often. Downside - You need to commit to caring for this knife. Its not difficult to do, but neither the handle nor the blade like water. The handle is wood, it will warp, swell, and rot if you leave it soaking wet. The blade is not stainless steel. This means you must wash and dry it right after use, or else it will rust. But its pretty easy to do. Once you are done with your cutting, walk to the sink, give it a quick rub with a soapy rag, dry it on a towel and you are done.

    Then, spend the rest of your budget on sharpening stones. No matter what knife you get, you need to sharpen it to keep it functional. This is a reasonable system if you don't feel like you want to learn how to free-hand sharpen. This is a reasonable stone to get if you do Youtube will be more than happy to show you how to use either one.
u/aussie_jason · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Define on a budget? For about $30, which I consider fairly cheap you can get a full sharpening kit - Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/ShuManChu · 2 pointsr/knives

Did you buy this kit? If so I would recommend not going back and forth on the same side. Just pull the knife through. If this is not the kit you have, please link to the one you did buy.

u/pussifer · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

How long did that take? Which Lansky did you use? And did you do the reprofiling with that sharpener, or something else? I ask because I feel like, even with the super rough diamond hone, it would take forever to reprofile an edge with this.

Edit: Added more

u/fiskedyret · 2 pointsr/sharpening

Hi there!

your post contains a referral link which reddit does not like. and as such was automatically removed.

if you replace the link to the lansky with this

i'll go ahead and get the post approved for you.

u/CostcoMuffins · 2 pointsr/AskCulinary

Everyone here seems to be recommending whetstones, which is fine (great in fact), but I figured I'd post about an alternative to that.

I personally use the Lansky system, which has pros and cons relative to a set of nice stones but is perfectly fine for a single college student like myself, because it's cheap, easy-to-use, basically foolproof, and gives your knife-edge a very steady angle.

u/papermageling · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

So, it's not hard for a knife to be BIFL. In fact, I have some $10 knives that probably are. What you pay for with a knife is edge quality, geometry, balance, and handle. In a lot of ways, having something to sharpen said knives with is the most important thing, as otherwise your knives will inevitably end up just as dull as your grandmother's.

How much time and effort are you interested in putting into your knives? There are a variety of options. Purists tend to prefer a sharpening stone, as it offers the greatest control. If you want to nerd about your knives, this allows you to control the edge angle and exactly how much material you remove from the knife. It's also the hardest though, and the one you're most likely to slack off from. The Lansky System offers nearly as much control and greater ease of use, and many people like this option.

If you know that both of those options are realistically not going to happen, get a pull through. It'll take a bit more metal from the edge when you sharpen it, but it's worth it if it's what you'll use. I got my parents one, actually. If you get a Western knife, you can pretty much get any pull through. If you get at least one Asian knife, get this pull through so that you can control the angle, as Asian knives are generally sharpened to a more acute angle.

As for knives? You can get really nice ones like Tojiro and Shun, you can get well reviewed ones like Victorinox, and as long as you don't get the super cheapo micro serrated knives, you'll probably be fine. I've got some Tramontina knives from Costco that are quite reasonable, and some Kom Kom knives which I adore and which are stupid cheap. Don't stick wood handled knives in the dishwasher (in general, the dishwasher dulls knives, but it also really is not kind to wood handles), and full tang knives are much better when you're talking wood handles, because they add extra stability.

Don't bother spending a ton of money on bread knives: they're incredibly difficult to sharpen, so it's really not worth it.

u/william_tells · 2 pointsr/knives

Are you still excluded/special (mil/fire/police/ems)? Gerber has an authentication, I think through idme, and you prefill the auto acknowledgment.

I have a Lansky 5 Stone and purchased a couple extra stones off the recommendation of some people on this sub and it’s pretty damn groovy. It works well and has made everything I’ve put on it shaving sharp. The additional stones are an Extra Coarse Diamond and a Super Sapphire They also have angled stones for serrated sections. I also picked up a few strops off of r/knife_swap from u/jester002100 which he hand crafts and are of utmost fit and finish.

u/jenkstom · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

The blocks with rods that stick out work fairly well. If you want to get serious get an eye loupe and one of the systems that use a guide rod to keep the angle perfect every time ( But those take some time and quite of skill to usr.

Or if you are lazy and don't care about longevity of the blade get one of the chef's choice sharpeners. They are pricey, but ridiculously easy to use and you can have a razor sharp blade in seconds.

u/PissedOffBiotic · 2 pointsr/EDC

I use a Lansky, also good is a Smith's. The best one out there imo is the Sharpmaker.

u/BageendJr · 2 pointsr/balisong
u/reversethrust · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Oh. didn't the kit come with oil? The Lanksy kit comes with oil: although, i guess, the Spyderco doesn't. I didn't see the Spyderco one in store when i was shopping :)

u/orbitalfreak · 2 pointsr/Sacramento

Depending on how many knives you need to sharpen, and how frequently, you can also look into getting a sharpening kit. Look at cost of purchase vs cost of hiring a person. I use this one:

There are some quick videos from the manufacturer on how to use it. It's pretty easy to knock out a kitchen's worth of knives during a Netflix binge. I sharpen mine about every 6-12 months, depending on when I remember, and depending on if a particular knife really needs it.

u/bakerman03 · 2 pointsr/knifeclub
u/Reachmonkey · 2 pointsr/knives

okay, so... as far as cheap sharpening goes, stay away from pull thru sharpeners they give a mediocre edge and take years off the steel.
a cheap-ish way is to get a stone but learning to free hand sharpen is a pain and can take years to truly get the hang of. also chosing grits and a good stone that wont crumble and scratch the shit out of your knife.

you can get a lansky for 35-40$

or you can get a spyderco sharpmaker for 50-60$

i use one of these for rough stuff, really bad edges and reprofiling. i would recommend this because if you arent going to be sharpening often and dont need a razor edge itll be fine.

a good strop can get expensive but honestly you can just pick one for 15-20$ and some buffing compound for 3-10$

you can also use one of these to get a mirror edge, closer to finishing, freehand sharpening again has a larger learning curve, practice on a crappy knife. seriously. you will fuck up at first. you should see my first knife, gross...

if you decide in the freedom of freehand sharpening, check out atomedges guide in the sidebar. pretty helpful.

u/hermeslyre · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Yeah. Edge pro is the expensive one, you can get any angle you want, and the much cheaper lansky version has set guide holes for the rods.

Yeah, my crocks sticks work and your sharpmakers better. I just wanna try something different.

u/KaineOrAmarov · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Someone else suggested this product, also by Lansky. What's the difference?

u/wee0x1b · 2 pointsr/Cooking

I use a Lansky sharpener. You can shave with the knives. And once you get the bevel set to whatever angle you like, re-sharpening takes about 3 minutes.

u/Juggernaut118 · 2 pointsr/Fishing

Thanks for the reply. What kind of sharpener do you use? I have one of these
I find I can get a sharper edge then any other technique I've tried, but it is a slow process.

Also, have you found some blades just have better steel overall?

u/siamonsez · 1 pointr/Tools

Which Lansky do you have, one of [these[(

I've always been hesitant about getting into sharpening with stones because of the price, but that's not bad.

u/Hatandboots · 1 pointr/knives

I just got the Lansky Deluxe kit and it worked wonders for me. Got my old Mora to a smooooth 17° finish. I'd recommend it. The kit is decently small and comes with everything you need for any knife.

I'm also pretty new to sharpening, so getting a 3 year old Morakniv back to shaving sharp is a huge success for me :)

u/DavidPx · 1 pointr/Cooking

+1 for the Lansky system, it's inexpensive, simple, and produces repeatable results. I got the 5-stone set for under $40.

u/deckyon · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

Everyone answering in here will give you a different way to go. You need to find what works for you. The biggest thing to think about in field vs home is, how long will you be in the field? If its for a weekend, then personally, I dont even bring a stone with me. I wipe down the blade before sheathing it, and I worry about it when I get home.

Now, I was raised by my dad (hunter) to treat your knives like you treat your guns when it comes to cleaning. When you get home, you do a full inspection, cleaning and sharpening. For the carbon knives, I use gun oil (Remington spray, yellow and green can). Spray it down, clean it up with a cotton towel, if there are spots, then put more oil on and rub (with the grain) it down with medium to light pressure using the RED scrubbie. Not the green, they are too abrasive, and the red ones have anti-rusting compounds. You can do the same for the stainless, you just wont need the scrubbies as often. If you are not going to use your carbon knives for a while (more than a month) then wipe it down with denatured alcohol to remove the oil, then put a coat of turtle wax (from the tub, not the bottle) and leave it sit. Do not store either in their sheathes, especially if the sheath is leather. Condensation is killer.

Then, before you head back out in the woods, do a check of the knife and a good cleaning and coat of oil (wiping excess off). Check for nicks, burs, folds, rusting and treat as necessary. It is really the same as for firearms. You cant clean them too often, and must clean after every use.

If you will be in the woods for an extended period of time, bring some oil and a couple different grit stones to hone while out. I use a Lansky 5-stone kit both at home and throw it in the kit now. Got a great demo and tutorial this past weekend with it, and it really works well with practice.

Treat even your cheap knives like firearms when it comes to maintenance and they will last much longer than expected.

u/T1978_sach · 1 pointr/oddlysatisfying

Absolutely! Steel knives are made to be sharpened, there is no such thing as a blade that stays sharp forever. Either get a fixed angle system like the Lansky or go with traditional Japanese water stones. Stones take much longer to learn and are an entire rabbit hole on their own but you can get amazing results.

u/Ropeless · 1 pointr/orangecounty

What kind of knife?

I agree with the comments about learning to do it yourself, but freehand sharpening is a skill that takes time to learn, and you'll want to do on cheaper knives at first.

I usually recommend a lansky constant angle sharpener for most people. It's easy to use, and will give you a perfect edge, much better than most people get freehand.

If you still need it sharpened in a week or so,
Send me a PM, I'm in Brea, and could sharpen it for you if you like. (Knife making is my hobby)

u/davidkappelt · 1 pointr/knives

Sounds good. Any experience with this :

Are the extra coarse stones included coarse enough for this job?

u/HandiCapablePanda · 1 pointr/knifemaking

Okay thank you very much! Do you have any tool recommendations for beveling the edge and also sharpening the blade? Is there a tool that can do both of these jobs with a different attachment? I was thinking about purchasing the lansky sharpening system. Is there something similar in which I can also attach a mill file to produce the bevel? I would want something to purchase, not plans to build and something less than $100 if possible. The bevel I'm thinking about is probably 1/4 of an inch or 3/8ths.

Thank you!

u/HamwiseVonTossington · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The key to proper sharpening is a consistent angle. Some people can hand sharpen with success, but this requires a ton of time and practice to master. Products like the Lansky Turn Box and Spyderco Sharpmaker both hold the sharpening rods at an angle and it's left up to the user to keep the knife straight while sharpening. Some argue that your sharpener should have a guide system in order to keep a consistent angle. These systems will clamp the blade in place and have a guide for the rods, which for the most part eliminates the variable of the users hand not staying straight. The Lansky 5 Rod sharpener is an entry level guided system that is very reasonably priced IMO and works well. Some pros (not me by any means) insist on using products like the Edge Pro Apex or Wicked Edge systems which have the ability to have near perfect angles. These are both several hundred dollar systems and are way over kill for the casual user IMO. I'd say go for the Lansky 5 Rod, otherwise jump in where your budget allows.

u/dougbtv · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

You might try a lansky knife sharpening system. I have been sharpening my knives for years with the same (relatively) inexpensive set. Or a slightly more expensive diamond set. You can reprofile a knife with these, so, for just regular sharpening make sure you use only the finer stones.

...For a axe / hatchet you do want a sharpening puck. And if you carry an axe or hatchet -- do yourself a favor and sharpen it regularly.

And get yourself a strop, too.

People who are a lot more technical about it use water stones, and more expensive knife sharpening rigs. But for me, the lansky is totally sufficient (and I do appreciate a honed blade)

edit: grammar

u/bushdid9711 · 1 pointr/knives

I have the regular “Lansky sharpening system” the one you can choose your angle and go to town. I bought more stones (more course and more fine) and I enjoy it more than a freehand type like you’re suggesting.
Mines similar to this:
Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
Though mines a few years older.
That’s what I personally use and recommend. I can choose my angle from 17, 20, 25, and 30 Degrees depending on what I’m using the knife for.
Sorry if this is typed badly I’m running on about 4 hours of sleep.

u/TeeDubya1 · 1 pointr/balisong

Cheap and easy is the Lansky system from Amazon. $32 and you can repair (reset a bevel) and simply sharpen a blade easily. You can get the 3 stone one for $25 but 2 extra grits for $7 extra is worth it. Just follow the short instructions and you'll be good to go.

u/auntie-matter · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

How do you feel about the Lansky system with the clamp and guide rods and so on?

I just broke my fancy (and old!) Kyocera powered diamond wheel sharpener and am looking for something good but affordable to replace it with to keep my kitchen knives in order. I'd like a set of water stones but I'm a bit broke and frankly I don't want to spend the time learning how to hold a knife at just the right angle.

u/zx80r · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I suggest you get a good pocket knife, sharpen the shit out of it and use it. Snap-on makes a good few. Lansky makes good sharpeners, use a swirl motion. Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System
And never post on the Internet and feel stupid again.

u/aarongough · 1 pointr/howto

I use a Lansky sharpener for sharpening my blades:

You could alter the filing jig to sharpen the knives too, but it's probably easier and more efficient to get the Lansky sharpener. If you're sharpening knives that have never been sharpened before (like ones you've made) then I recommend going with the diamond Lansky set, as the diamond stones are much faster.

u/Taboggan · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I would get something a little cheaper like a:

u/konzy27 · 1 pointr/knifeclub
u/IAmAPhysicsGuy · 1 pointr/DIY

Sure! Here is what I originally started with. It works great once I have an edge, but setting the edge took a lot of time on really dull knives so I bought this extra coarse diamond hone. I love it, it sets my bevel in minutes so I can go back and finish the edge with the fine stones. For a few extra bucks, you can buy the whole diamond set. I would also recommend getting the mount so you can safely attach it to a workspace.

And finally, I learned how to use the system from Aaron Gough in his video here

u/AnotherMadHatter · 1 pointr/knives

Accidentally replied to myself. . . :-\

I am not trying to come off as a Lansky fanboy.

I actually bought the Gatco first and used it, and it definitely was a lot cheaper than the Lansky. I am not sure if it was just the quality of the stones or not, but after using it, I am here to tell you, the stones really do matter that much.

I started with the most basic Lansky kit I could get, with like three stones. Then later I bought another finer stone, and then later still bought the triangular stone for sharpening some serrated knives.

Hell, right now at Amazon the 5 stone kit is $33.49 I do not know your budget, (I am an Engineer and my wife is retired with a comfortable retirement income, so I sometimes forget that what I consider inexpensice is different than what others consider expensive) but that is actually a lot lower than I paid for mine because I was dumb enough to buy my first kit in a knife store.

u/Critter10 · 1 pointr/army

Buy 2

Easy to sharpen, small, and hold an edge relatively well.
I'm one of those guys that can appreciate benchmade and kershaw, but can't swallow the price on a tool I'm likely to abuse and/or lose. CRKT knives have done well for me and I've only managed to lose 2 in the last 7 years. I have about 5 as of now, a few bigger ones that don't see much use and 3 or 4 of these smaller ones that see regular use.

Buy something like this to keep sharp things sharp.

I sharpen my daily carry knives about once every 2-3 months. All my knives get sharpened once a year.

u/crick2000 · 1 pointr/knives
u/SOULSofFEAT · 1 pointr/Cooking

You could try something like this kit:

I was thinking about picking one up but decided to stick with my two grit stone for now.

u/Phillije · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I'd suggest a Lansky knife sharpening system I believe the deluxe version has an extra coarse hone (70 grit) if you need that to re-profile the blade. It also has an extra fine hone (1000 grit) so you can really polish it up. Additionally you can get a strop as well.

Just looked it up, it's on offer. From $76.22 down to a very reasonable $33.99.

u/greath · 1 pointr/knifeclub

>I would like to maintain the blade through continual touch ups rather than redoing one. With the strategy, will I have trouble maintaining the proper angles?

Some. Touch up will help maintain an edge for MUCH longer, but you will still eventually have to actually sharpen the knife.

I would go with this if you can't put any more money into sharpeners. You may have trouble with s30v or anything harder, but it should work for MOST of your blades just fine.

Also, look into making a good strop. You only need some stropping compound and some cardboard or better a good piece of leather glued to a piece of wood. That will be the easiest way to maintain your edge to shaving sharp.

u/doomcrew2123 · 1 pointr/everymanshouldknow

just like /u/kickingturkies said, they are made to "sharpen" at an angle that more than likely does not match the grind of your knife.

Also, the carbide bits don't evenly grind metal, they take it off in chunks and will put little pits in your blade. The ceramic ones are better, but still aren't made with the angle of your knife.

A system like this lansky one gives you flexibility with the grit and angle with very little learning curve (light pressure, go slow) at a prettly low price point.

u/neuromonkey · 1 pointr/Maine
u/uberfastman · 1 pointr/knives

I'll second /u/super_octopus 's post! I've got the Sharpmaker and it works great for all my knives, from my Buck 505 with a 1.875" blade to my custom Bowie and Kukri both with over 6" blades. The system is pretty affordable (under $60).

Alternately I've heard really good things about the Lansky system, either the three stone or five stone sets, both of which are even more affordable (under $40).

I've also got a few diamond coated whetstones for freehand sharpening, which work great too, but you just have to be prepared to go slow at first and learn how to hold your blades at the proper angles and sharpen them evenly. DMT makes some good diamond coated whetstones.

So definitely watch a few youtube videos, read the sidebar guide /u/super_octopus pointed out to you, and if you're still unsure on technique, once you get something to sharpen your knives with, try to practice first with some old beater knife or cheap blade that you might not mind having to sharpen a little extra in case it takes you a while to get it right.

u/Freezerburn · 1 pointr/knives
u/armchairracer · 1 pointr/knives

What's the preferred knife sharpener for large knives? I have a [Lansky sharpener](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System for my pocket knives but it doesn't give an even edge geometry on blades longer than about 3 1/2 inches. I'm looking for something for my 8 inch chef knife. For the people that are going to suggest freehanding with a wetstone, I've screwed up knives in the past because I couldn't keep the angle consistent so I'd rather use something that holds the angle for me.

u/sauceLegs · 1 pointr/knifeclub

After reading through the comments, you really can't go wrong with either the BM940 or the ZT0450. Also, a cheaper and just as great sharpening set is the Lansky System. All you need to add to it are the Leather and Diamond strops, oh and the Stand.

u/kowalski71 · 1 pointr/AskMen

I have a basic arkansas stone that works very well at what it does... but I'm not necessarily a pro at what I do. Hand sharpening on a stone requires you to hold the knife at a very constant angle while working it through a relatively complex motion. Very difficult to get a good edge but if you practice and get the skills it's the cheapest and most versatile method of sharpening. Most people (definitely myself included) also need a decent preexisting edge to sharpen as they can 'set' the knife on that flat. Much harder if the existing edge is crap.

What I have for quick and dirty sharpening is a Lansky set. A bracket clamps to the knife and holds a rod (attached to the stone) at essentially a constant angle to the blade. It has some issues so I don't use it on the knives I really care about but it's good for really quickly bringing a beat knife back to a decently usable edge. I use my Lansky set on kitchen knives.

However, if you're willing to spend a bit more money, the Spyderco Sharpmaker is a very well reviewed product. I suppose this is my 'Everest' tip as I don't actually have one but I'll buy one eventually, when I have a particularly profitable feeling month. The idea here is that it's much easier to hold a knife vertical than at some obscure angle like 27 degrees. The put the sharpening stone on the angle then essentially do a 'chopping' motion along the stone to bring an edge in. It solves a lot of the problems of the Lansky but doesn't require as much skill as just a stone. These are rather well regarded in the knife community, though those guys still go after hand sharpening.

u/no_eu · 1 pointr/knifeclub

The first sharpener I got was a Natural Stones Lansky system which was fine. It doesn't require much skill and it got my knives sharp enough to shave hairs off. If you opt for a Lanksy though, I would recommend the Diamond Stones because they cut faster and are easier to clean.

When I started freehand sharpening, I got a Smith's Tri-hone which worked nicely. It was cheap and I was bad at freehanding, but with a good bit of practice, trial and error, and some instructional videos I was able to produce hair shaving edges consistently. And eventually, I decided I favored freehand sharpening over fixed angle sharpeners.

However, I gave away my Lansky and Smith's Tri-hone. Right now, I use DMT continuous sharpening stones. They cut very fast and I like them a lot. I'm a broke college student, so all I have is the Coarse, Fine, and Extra Fine stones which I can consistently get a toothy edge that will still shave hairs.

I'd say I'm still pretty bad at freehand sharpening. I don't always hold consistent angles and sometimes I fuck up a knife pretty bad, but I usually know what I did wrong and try to improve the next time I sharpen a knife. So whatever you get, meter your expectations. The first few knives you sharpen probably won't come out the best, but with enough practice, and especially patience, at the very least you'll get your knife sharp again.

u/gheedsgreed · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I think people around here usually recommend Lansky's guided system:

I personally use the DMT aligner kit.

u/nkosoana · 1 pointr/AskReddit

what do you think of something like this?

u/EbayNachos · 1 pointr/knives

Well first off, for hiking, the last thing I would recommend would be an all black, "tactical", tanto pointed, ka-bar stamped, crop circle handled thing as such.

But alas...

Good sharpeners that are always reccommeneded would be either the Spyderco Sharpmaker or a Lanksy.

u/Adolf_ · 1 pointr/knives

So this or this?

u/freedoomed · 1 pointr/knives

OK, i looked into your sharpener a little more and it is not as bad as i thought. the way yours works is it has a spinning diamond coated wheel and the plastic housing guides the knife at the correct angle against the diamond wheel. This style of sharpener won't destroy your edge like a carbide sharpener will. However diamond is very aggressive as an abrasive material. This means that you are probably taking off way too much material from the edge of your knife than you need to. This means you are shortening the life of your knives. This sharpener also only has two stages of sharpening which means you are not getting much of a polish on your knife edges. The higher the polish the more of a slice you are getting as opposed to a rip. This is both good and bad. cutting some materials requires a more 'toothy' edge to the knife but if you are slicing meat you don't want a toothy edge.

In short what you have is adequate for the average kitchen. if you want better results you will need to upgrade to a better sharpener.

The work sharp is basically a miniature belt sander. by having replaceable belts you have a sharpener that basically has an unlimited life, those diamond wheels will eventually wear down. by having replaceable belts you are able to change the abrasiveness of the belt. when sharpening a knife you want to move to progressively finer grits. this grit progression will ensure that you are not spending longer than you need to on finer grits and it will get you a highly polished blade edge. the work sharp belts are flexible which means you will also get what is called a convex edge. so instead of being a perfect V the V will be bowed out slightly. this provides a much stronger edge due to the shape. the wheels in the chef's choice will grind to a concave edge or what is known as a hollow grind. a hollow grind provides a much thinner edge. thinner edges tend to be sharper but they also tend to chip and not hold their edge as well as a convex edge.

amazon has the lansky sharpening system for $36

the lansky system will provide you with similar results to the work sharp in terms of edge polish and sharpness but it will give you the standard V edge. these clamp style sharpeners are very popular because they work really well. with a clamp style sharpener you will spend much more time on a single knife than with the work sharp.

u/RIKENAID · 1 pointr/knives

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

You'll also need the stand for it.

Lansky Universal Mount

Watch some tutorials on YouTube to find all the little tricks for it. The big thing is that you will essentially have to reprofile any edge the first time use the shapener on it. After that you can just touch it up with the finer stones.

u/doomsday_solforge · 1 pointr/knifemaking

For some links (again, not to endorse amazon, but...):

I use this sharpener system, also with an auxiliary diamond extra coarse sharpener and leather strop.

For the initial edge setting, I use this surgisharp edge tool:

It lets me put 20 degrees or whatever on the edge with a belt, and then use the stones.

Finally, I use a 1x30 stropping belt ( to get a super sharp edge at the end.

It's a little expensive, but I think it's worth it. I can shave with the knives I sharpen.

u/0OKM9IJN8UHB7 · 1 pointr/gadgets

A good knife sharpening kit, Lansky makes a good one.

u/BrynRock · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I use the Lansky guided system and it gives me a good edge. I have the set that comes with 5 grits and it works well. It will take about 30~45 minutes if the knife is completely dull. It will give the knife a near mirror finish but you can finish with a strop and get a good polished edge. The guides work well and make them process very easy. I'll say that I've found it very helpful to mount the clamp in a vise or fasten it to a block wood. The systems are easily find on Amazom. I think I paid about $35.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

u/king_human · 1 pointr/knifeclub


I, too, have a level of dislike for these abominations that borders on loathing. In addition to the Spyderco Sharpmaker, look into the Lansky sharpening system as well as the Smith's clone.

u/grrfunkel · 1 pointr/knives

So if you were to buy one, which would you buy? Also what do you think about guided sharpeners like the Lansky sharpening system or the Spyderco Sharpmaker?

EDIT: or the DMT DMGEF Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpening System to go with the DMT Diafold

u/downhillcarver · 1 pointr/knives

You mean this thing? I like it, especially that it folds away nicely.

Any idea if this is any good? It looks like it gives you more for about the same price, and the angle guide is nice. It's getting good review too.

u/Tadashi047 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Save up for a Lansky Sharpening System or a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Carbide pull-through sharpeners will tear-up and eventually weaken the edge of your blades. Here's an example.

u/stonewall1979 · 1 pointr/Woodcarving

You could try a sharpening jig system like a Lansky stone system for your knives. There are a lot of other jig systems you can look at.

For chisels, do you have an Angle Honing Guide or are you free handing it? It's hard to free hand a blade & stone when you're new to it.

u/test18258 · 1 pointr/knives

Its sad how many "professionals" out there are just morons with a belt sander.

Assuming that your trying to only spend whats on that gift card you looking at the lansky clamp system or one of the chinese edge pro knockoff sharpeners.

the lansky is a decent sharpener but can be a little bit fiddly to work with. however its capable of leaving a mirror polished perfectly flat edge once you know how to use it properly.


The edge pro clones are going to be various levels of quality as they are chinese clones of an actual quality product. And if you do decide to get an edge pro knock off please get real edge pro stones or aftermarket stones made fro the edge pro the ones that come with the chinese clones tend to be garbage.

fake edge pro

I know you probably want to spend the money on the amazon gift card but you can also find knife sharpeners for relatively cheap on things like craigslist or here on /r/Knife_Swap

If your willing to spend more than the $50 on the giftcard there are a few more sharpeners that become available such as the spyderco sharpmaker, a real edge pro (cheaper varients apex 1,2 or 3 dont buy the version thats $700) a KME, wicked sharp, and a few others.

If you do decide to get the edge pro I would highly suggest getting the real thing if you can afford it. The edge pro stock stones are perfectly servicable but many of the aftermarket stones for it are way better.

Though if you are on a budget for this you could also get the chinese fake and get some either stock or aftermarket edge pro stones.

The only systems I have personal experience with are the edge pro and the spyderco sharpmaker though the rest of the ones I mentioned come highly recommended often.

u/nickfreeman14 · 1 pointr/spyderco

No its this one.

u/Phuzzybear · 1 pointr/Chefit

Honing steels are more for edge maintenance, if your knife has already gone dull, you'll need to sharpen it.

If you're just getting into it, or don't want to risk messing up nice knives, consider getting something like a Lansky Sharpener set, they are relatively inexpensive, and a good starting point.

If you're willing to put a little more time and energy into it, you'll probably get better results with a 1000/3000 combination whetstone and a knife guide, you probably do not want to try sharpening freehand until you get a feel for it. This Tojiro video is not a bad place to start watching.

u/Toastalicious_ · 1 pointr/videos

What about this system?

There's no 15 degree option, but you get what I mean.

u/gun-nut · 1 pointr/holdmyfries

I really like my Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

It's how I sharpen my dozens of knifes. Is not as fast as a small belt sander but it's a lot more relaxing and I can get my knifes shaving sharp. I don't even own a razor (I have a beard but I still need to clean up the edges sometimes) and it works on all of my knifes.

u/reddit_is_filth · 1 pointr/Cooking

I've used that same machine (or at least one very similar) professionally. It's fine if you have a really fucked up knife and you have to start a new edge from scratch. I'd use it when I worked in kitchens, if only for speed's sake. If I even had a few minutes to spare, I'd always touch up with a tri-hone.

Insta-edit: If you don't trust yourself to use a tri-hone effectively, there's always a Lansky kit. That thing works wonders.

u/sindex23 · 1 pointr/CampingGear

You should sharpen before heading out - I don't see why you'd carry the weight to sharpen on a trip. That said, this seemed pretty popular on Massdrop.

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System. That link is to Amazon, where it's around $30.

u/Stole_My_Banana · 0 pointsr/knives

this is the set that I have. Depending on how long it has been since the knife has been sharpened I normally start with either green or red if the knife is REALLY dull