Reddit reviews LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip

This is my parts list.... Simple and it works

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cmswrcpapaiAyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiGzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cmswrcpapaiMAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cmswrcpapailChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cmswrcpapaifDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.

Induction Heating Module

Power Supply

Glass Adapter

Momentary Switch

Project Enclosure

Drill Bit

Edit for parts list.

You will need an induction heater

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALTHK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a power supply

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01461MOGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Technically that's really all you need. You could wire the leads to the induction heater and plug it in and it will be on. But I don't think anyone likes the idea of leaving this thing plugged in and always on. Which is why most users will choose some sort of switch set up. For my induction heater I used this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D373HZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Several users have pretty in-depth full guides. I think the best and most clear one out right now is this one https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/diy_induction_heater_guide/

If you're ok with the strips only being one color at a time (no rainbows, fire effects, chasing lights, etc.), then the absolute simplest thing to do would be a wifi controller with a set of rgb(w) lights:

• Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• LED Strip: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Changing-Lighting-16-4ft-300leds/dp/B00K6ZJVP4/
  
• Power Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-Supply-Transformers-Adapter/dp/B01461MOGQ/
  
  Once you get it wired up, you can add that to Home Assistant like this:
  
  light:
  
  • platform: flux_led
    devices:
    192.168.1.10:
    name: NAME
    protocol: 'ledenet'
    
    You can also find snap-on 5-wire connections to extend or change the direction of the led strips, but I add a little solder to the connections on them anyway, to make sure they connect.
    
    That controller has a few effects you can choose from but if you want something fancier like fire effects & rainbow, then go with the ws8212b/esp8266 solution that /user/MeudA67 suggested.

I followed the Ikea LACK build, with my own mods.

I don't live near an IKEA, so I bought two end tables @ $8/ea, but ended up paying $26 total after shipping. I then purchased $60 in plexi, but used corrugated plastic for the back panel since it's significantly cheaper and the white background reflects more light on the print bed. It's basically the stuff that political yard signs are made out of (if that makes sense). I printed standoffs / brackets to hold the plexiglass (see Thingiverse), $14 in brackets & board for the side shelf. The lights were about $45, using this, this, & this. I put the LED strips on aluminum channel, but that really could have been skipped. I just had some from a previous project.

Because I went "full nerd", I used an arduino & temperature sensor to create a temperature controlled fan, with LED control panel (designed & printed bracket), and used sketch-up to build an exhaust housing very similar to this one, except for a 120mm fan. I don't have a filter on the enclosure now, and to be honest, 90% of the time, the fan is off. But I wanted to be able to place a charcoal filter on the exhaust fan for ABS, so I planned ahead. I'm going to tie my OctoPi to the Arduino and trigger the fan on high after a print ends to cool the enclosure down faster so I can pull parts off the glass bed sooner.

I'll guess my all-up price was about $200. It could have been done for probably $130 without the arduino & lighting tom foolery.

Other mods pictured are the printed Z-axis braces on the printer itself, this fan shroud on the control box (because the stock fan is a joke), and the aforementioned borosilicate glass print bed.

Until you have an enclosure sorted, even surrounding the printer on 3 sides with cardboard proved to be a huge step in the right direction for me. It proved that yeah, I really do want an enclosure.

Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-Supply-Transformers-Adapter/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485796874&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+5A+power+supply

I don't use the plugs on my FLS-pp's that I have. I just cut the plug off the power supply and hard wired it directly to the FLS-pp. Since mine is a permanent installation this isn't an issue. Honestly I don't see why you would ever want the plug. It not like you will be swapping power supplies that often or ever.

This’s the one I bought.

12 V LEDs?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01461MOGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492592370&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+led+transformer&dpPl=1&dpID=51LCdONZWbL&ref=plSrch

This one works wonderfully, and at a great price (~$10)

Hah! Not at all, this is the one I got. LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AME1DbXG6XC11

Had a lot of issues deciding, myself. For the price, I went with this and skipped the MOSFET. I followed this guide to the T, if it helps.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/comment/etwdtf8?utm_source=amp&utm_medium=&utm_content=comment_timestamp

This is what I got.
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B013C2U09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oCdsybMS72SB8
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eDdsybYH0EKW5

They don't have ones that are specifically white -> red but what you could do is buy addressable RGB LED strips and use a controller to do that. Adafruit would be a good place to start. https://www.adafruit.com

No you need something more like this

LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dfX2DbY18XP3R

Don't be sorry for the wall of text, that link was very helpful.

I'm giving up on the RGBW and going with standard RGB for the time being.

If I go with one of the Magic Home RGB controllers, they state they can go all the way up to 12v, although I'd probably rather run 5v to it. I could get this step-down (as the article suggest) with this power supply. Or can the Magic Home take 12v no problem?

I've been using this power supply for two 16ft light strips that are connected to one controller and it's been working good.
LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YTRDb5S1HY57

I put my intakes towards the top of the bucket and my exhaust fan in the lid. It mostly depends on what type of pot you're going to use. If it fills your bucket then you'll want to have them high enough so the air isn't blocked. If there's some space around it then you could go lower but be sure to leave a little space at the bottom if you plan to make a drainage tray. I planned my bucket with a 3 gallon smart pot in mind so i kept the intakes high enough to not be obstructed. There's a link to my first bucket in my profile as Ekropf was kind enough to put it on spacebuckets.com. I haven't taken pics of my 2nd bucket yet, but it's similar. That site has lots of great pictures and info. If you do end up using an intake fan you'll want to mount it somewhere that doesn't blow directly on the top of your pot as it will dry out the top layer of the medium too quickly so the wet/dry cycle will be tough to maintain.
I can't stress the passive intake enough. I was very much of the opinion that I was going to have 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan but some very good people here pointed me in the right direction before I started building. You can see the thread and comments in my profile. (Hoping I can pass along the knowledge I gained. The people on this subreddit are awesome and helped me immensely.) I was very pleasantly surprised by the pvc elbows. They're only about 80 cents each and since I had already ordered 2 fans I made a 2nd bucket. Also, if odor control is important to you then you'll want to maintain negative pressure in your bucket. Intake fans can lead to positive pressure and air leak whereas passive will guarantee negative pressure. Just Google it if you haven't read about it yet.

Regarding the fans; here's what I bought. They're plug and play for a regular outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
I also got lamp dimmers for my fans and they work great. Here's a link but I found them for 7 bucks at a local home store similar to Lowes or Home Depot.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241

I'd recommend getting a temp/humidity weather monitor and try your bucket with 1 fan first. You can always install a 2nd if needed. It's important to check temp/humidity with your pot and medium in the bucket...I found its much different than an empty bucket. Something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00611A3-Wireless-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001B35APA

I found cheap bricks of coco at Petsmart. It's also used for bedding/substrate in reptile terrariums. Roughly 6 bucks for 8 quarts...add about 30% perlite or vermiculite and you can easily fill a 2-3 gallon pot.
http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=/reptile/substrate-bedding/exo-terra-coco-husk-tropical-reptile-terrarium-substrate-zid36-5133039/cat-36-catid-500013?null

Here's what I did for led side lighting and power supply. It's not an absolute must, but definitely helpful from what I've read.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01339F5ZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457338928&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=led+tape+5630&dpPl=1&dpID=512cIyl2inL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01461MOGQ/ref=psdcmw_15704861_t1_B01339F5ZO

If you have any more questions, feel free to pm me. I highly suggest looking through spacebuckets.com though...it'll give you lots of different ideas and you'll be able to see how they work before building your bucket.

Hope this helps!

If you're on a budget, it's pretty easy to convert an old PC power supply into a 12v bench power supply and those usually have more than enough power to power several battery chargers at once.

Or if that's too hard, you can buy one of these or even one of these or something similar and they'll do the job nicely and can usually power more than one charger if you wire things up properly.

Not that there's anything wrong with spending a few dollars extra for a charger that has an AC input, of course. (And that's what I'd suggest if you buy any new chargers.) And if you want to be able to charge two batteries at once, often it's cheaper to buy two seperate chargers than a single charger that can handle two batteries simultaneously -- at least check the prices.

I had picked up this charger from HK for about $20 about a year ago and it's been really good -- but they don't seem to carry it any more. And it doesn't do AC input so ... I see no reason not to go with ohhnoez's suggested charger if you do buy a new charger.

So, I would just go with 4A and assume you're ok, but that's just how I roll.

How much is your usb pulling, probably not much, honestly I really doubt you'll have a problem with the 12v/4a.

If you want to be safer, go with: https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Power-Supply-Transformers-Adapter/dp/B01461MOGQ but you'll still need a splitter.

That one doesn't supply enough current unfortunately.

You can use a generic 12V supply so long as it provides 5A or more. Something like this one on Amazon would probably work provided the tip size is correct. Anyone know what the plug diameter is? 2.1mm inner / 5.5mm outer is the most common but you see a variety in the real world.

I was more so talking about a normal power supply brick, something like this (DC power supply is the proper term, just used to incorrectly calling them transformers). I've used similar of these to drive simple LED strip light setups.

The heat up time is how I calibrated it - ya I like it that way

I put a small rock at the bottom to adjust the height - see this guys post https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/d7pcew/make_sure_to_calibrate_your_home_made_induction

Without the rock it heats FAST - Too fast. I could try a smaller rock when I get around to it

Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ

IH module: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA

Module: SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Power Supply: LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKGHDbACFYZQB
(You May want to find a 10a one instead)

Momentary Switch: yueton DC 36V 2A 16mm High Round... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131XF9KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Box: Pinfox 2 Pack Black Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5SZNR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FEDqDbE02Z0BA this is the power supply we used!

Iv been looking for something like this, thanks. For those that are looking here's the parts...

LED strip

Power supply

Connectors