Reddit reviews Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output

I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.

Edit:

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter

You'd be better off getting a pair of micca mb42x and a cheap amp like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews

Couple ideas for you:

• There's a Pyle 2 channel amp with a usb charger on it, looks like it does a lot of extra stuff.
  
  Pyle
  
  Lepai
  
  
• You may want to consider a wall splitter that does USB power + Regular outlet. It's probably going to be the cheapest option.
  
  Belkin Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.1+lepai&qid=1564026642&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Here's that same amp but cheaper.

Even with that amp or any similar amp it's not going to power the sub, but it can connect to it. A sub will have it's own amplification. A 2.1 amp like that will allow you to connect a sub that doesn't have high level outputs, like the MartinLogan Dynamo 300 for reference (has high level inputs but no outputs)

On the sub you linked, assuming you go with the Micca's and the Lepy LP-2020A:

Speaker wire from the amplifier to the subwoofer "high level input", then speaker wire from the "high level output" to the speakers. That sub allows you to connect it with pretty much any existing stereo setup.

Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.

Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.

Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.

If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.

If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.

Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P

I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.

The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.

EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:


AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO

12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20

I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518544998&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lepai+168ha&dpPl=1&dpID=41HAXZahetL&ref=plSrch

Would this be a better amp for the price?

Yes, you just need an amp capable. The cheap 2 channel ones arent going to have a sub output usually. That requires a price jump.

But something like this combo will blow the pants off that logitech set
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PNOH2I&pd_rd_r=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE&pd_rd_w=u1mFH&pd_rd_wg=GZfhZ&psc=1&refRID=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE

this is a cheapy amp with sub out
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews

I don't know if this is the cheapest or simplest option, but you could have chromecast audios at the receiver, TV, and PC ($35 x 3 = $105). This would allow you to turn on/off media for the three systems from any device with chromecast support, and you could set up a Plex server if you want to use your own library of content in addition to streaming sources.

Issues:

Can you give the model numbers for the TV, receiver, soundbar, and PC speakers? That would probably be easier than listing their inputs and features individually.

How do you connect the TV to the soundbar? If it doesn't accept multiple inputs, you'll have to go through the TV, which could be a problem.

For the PC speakers, you'll probably need a y-splitter to combine the PC and chromecast inputs so you don't have to switch between them.

The two-zone receiver is trickier, because I don't know how you could control A/B/A+B from your phone or PC. If that level of control is a deal-breaker, then it might be easier to get something like this for the second zone, which requires another chromecast as well ($105 + $35 + $25 = $165).

I've been thinking about doing something similar (3 amp+speaker systems in different rooms), and this is the simplest solution I've been able to find.

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6qmgzbWC487DC amp to power the speakers and easy to transport. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla affordable speakers that punch above their price. Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rmgzbW2A60XF and an affordable subwoofer. Run speaker wire to connect speakers to amp. Not sure what your media source is though.

Here are some thoughts.

• I would go passives but I'm a big fan of changing out my gear. The ones that you mentioned are all active speakers for the most part. While they may be good I don't have that much experience with them.
  
  
• I would do what ctfrommn suggested or I if you want a 2.1 setup look at this
  
  
• Here is a sample of a 2.1 that you could do. BIC DV32 $60 and a Dayton Sub 800 $100 running through a Lepy 2020 $30, Lepai 2024 $20 or a Lepai 168 $35.
  
  
• Yep the amp choices above aren't great but if you're looking for something for your computer they should work just fine. I have used them for plenty of computer builds with not problem. The one good think about those little amps is they have tone controls. Yeah they don't work great but sometimes you can make things sound just a bit better using them.

I would not get that device. You don't need the led and its overpriced for what it is. I have a lapei 2020 that works great but it wouldn't work with the sub.


This version has a sub output and will be all that you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409635171&sr=8-1&keywords=2.1+lepai

This is what you're looking for

Best you can do is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO?ie=UTF8&keywords=lepai&qid=1465334470&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

It's a short term solution. At some point you are going to have to purchase a real receiver.

Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.

http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996566&sr=8-1&keywords=2.1+amplifier

You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404996848&sr=8-1&keywords=RCA+to+3.5

I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.

Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.

This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...

http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI

http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO

http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG

All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.

You need an amplifier. I use an Aura bass shaker with a cheap amplifier. Just match the watt ratings approximately.

Edit: also look at Voicemeeter if you want to duplicate an audio signal to two different outputs.

What information are you looking for? I run four of these hooked up to this. I'm getting ready to hit the sack but if you can provide me with specific questions I can try my best to answer in the morning!

Yes. Oops. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478404297&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX280_SY350_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2.1+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41HAXZahetL&ref=plSrch

I was in the market for a new computer speaker setup, and rather than go with a pre-built kit like the ProMedia 2.1 I decided to buy piece by piece.

I picked up a pair of the Micca MB42X's and this amp.

My question is... 1)How's the amp I picked and 2) How will it sound without a subwoofer? I plan on buying one but wanted to wait until I have more funds.

Also if anyone can recommend a decent lower priced sub to go with this I would really appreciate it!

Cool, so it's nice that you have both types of input. The "line in" jack and the four coax guys can be used independently. Therefore if you liked the small amp form factor you could get something like this, or go scrounge a thrift store for a larger unit.

This was what I was running before I purchased a receiver: LP2020A+ Amp and Dayton Audio B652

This is only 2.0, but it sounded great and it was less than $100.

You would most likely need something like this if you plan on getting a passive subwoofer, or this if you plan on running a powered subwoofer.

I highly recommend anyone new to home audio head over to /r/zeos and then /r/hometheater

T-amp is the way to go, as others have said.

This one seems ideal https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478008165&sr=8-4&keywords=lepai

You connect the two bottom black connectors and the two bottom red ones to create a "68w" mono sub output and it has the crossover control in the front. It's far more powerful than you need but it's small, stealthy, and I don't see how you would beat the price for amp+crossover.

Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.

This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:


Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF

Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP

Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ

StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X

Use of a buttkicker usually involves another amplifier. You can buy the whole kit like this or you can get separate parts like this (Note the "Frequently bought together" list on that page). Either way, you'll take an audio output from either the headphone jack on your computer or an audio output from your soundbar, and send it to the amp, which will filter the higher frequencies and amplify the base for the kicker. Usually, this will be the left channel. Screw that puppy (or two) onto your couch and your whole couch will join you in VR! :D

Wow thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Yeah Elite is one of the main reasons for getting this. I already have a DK2 and HOTAS so this is kind of the cherry on top for immersion lol. I don't know a whole lot about sound but I am above average with computers and quite handy with tools so I'm sure I will get it all going nicely. Thanks again for your advice I think it has pointed me in the right direction. A couple more questions though;

How important is the crossover? I'm looking at this one here http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417740400&sr=8-1&keywords=Lepai+LP-168HA it's a little more but has a built in crossover, and some extra power, worth it?

My soundcard driver panel has an LFE crossover frequency thing outlined here http://www.manualslib.com/manual/414988/Asus-Xonar-Dsx.html?page=40 maybe this is enough and I don't need to spend the extra money on the other amp? Not that the few extra bucks will make or break it for me. Thoughts?

I have the Xonar DGX soundcard and I only use Headphones if that makes any difference in what to get or how to set it up.

How about this one? Looks like it's 40w x 2.

http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417038573&sr=1-12&keywords=amplifier

I'm hoping to spend absolutely as little as possible to get the speakers working.

I'm getting ready to order a set of Micca MB42x and for the sake of future proofing for a sub was planning on using this amp. Most of these subs appear to be powered though, what does the setup look like when using powered and non powered components? Would I set the speakers up as usual then set up the sub separately?

Honestly I would build a passive sub to go along with those OSs. Also I would go with a cheap amp like https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

You can always upgrade later...

Several options.

You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.

You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.

Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2

You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3

I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA

What are you going to be connecting them to? A PC? TV?

You definitely need an amplifier/receiver, but what kind of equipment you use will depend on the audio outputs available on the device you'll be connecting them to. These are probably about the cheapest amplifiers that will support two speakers and a subwoofer, and they work well as long as you don't crank the volume up past 70-80%, but you'll need to be able to provide the audio signal through either a 3.5mm TRS (headphone) plug, or red and white RCA plugs. If you want audio from an HDMI source, you'll have to spend more (probably ~$100 minimum) for an AV receiver.

I was going to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1523319607&sr=8-21&keywords=two+channel+sub+amp

That should work, right?

I edited it into an older comment, whoops.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO

Hi, I need help to power my new headphones (ath m50x's). I have the Lepai LP-168HA amp ( https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO ) for my speakers and have that connected to another sub woofer amp. I was wondering if there was a cord that would go from the speaker out that the amp has to an female aux cord. If more details are needed. Ask away, can also provide pictures if need be. Thanks!

Hey, that's what I've got! It sounds great. Perfect for an apartment. Lepai makes an amp with a 68 watt subwoofer ouput. Get that and a passive subwoofer and you've got a pretty bangin custom 2.1 setup.

http://www.amazon.com/ANV-515-Passived-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Silver/dp/B005CKN00U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HC0W7NCWY0AQB7RQVDW

I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.

i have the following hardware:

• Amp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z87YO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• pwr adapter for amp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• 2x bass shakers - https://www.amazon.com/AuraSound-AST-2B-4-Shaker-Tactile-Transducer/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=aurasound&qid=1565363135&s=gateway&sr=8-1
  
  
• 3.5mm headphone to RCA audio cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8KO2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Then i just use voicemeeter banana to sort out the audio. - https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
  
  I take the headphone/soundcard audio + VR HMD audio and route it to the voicemeeter virtual VAIO device, and make that the default audio device in windows. Also, I limit the bass frequencies on the output that goes to the amp/shakers using Voicemeeter EQ.