Reddit reviews Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi Wireless-G Broadband Router,Blue / Black

Wireless router. Can't tell you how many friends I have that bought the cheapest possible one and are stuck replacing it once a year, instead of getting a solid router that will last basically forever.

I suppose this extends to all types of electronic peripherals that have very bad quality low-market options, but routers seem to snag people especially.

They are still for sale, at least the wrt54g is

How about loading Tomato on a WRT54GL ($50)?

How cheap is cheap? I recommend this router Linksys WRT54GL to everyone because it works great and doesn't die after a year like other cheap routers. It's listed at $50 though, not sure if you consider that cheap. Check out the thousands of reviews on Newegg and Amazon, it's a solid, reliable wireless router that will last.

Also, I've read good things about these TP-Link Routers and they are cheaper (~$35), but I haven't used them so I can't personally vouch for them.

I would go for Linksys WRT54GL. I haven't got one, but I did get recommendations from a few friends who do. If you're into Linux, you might like it for it's support for Linux-based (3rd party) firmware.
> Fully supported by Tomato, OpenWrt, and DD-WRT.

As I see now, it doesn't seem to support wireless-n, so if you need this feature for your wlan, keep that in mind.

Here's a wiki link for WRT54G series, you might check that out.

Bump because Tomato is awesome. I advise you buy the WRT54GL if you don't have a router that can support Tomato already.

WRT54GL + Tomato

I just put in a small system with a Reolink RLC-410 camera and I really like the camera. This one is wired, but since you rent, you might want to go wireless--the ones with little wifi antennas that just link up wirelessly to your wifi.

Reolink comes with a phone app that handles up to 16 cameras on your smartphone--I check my property from anywhere over the app whenever I want. I really like it, and the picture quality is awesome, as the Amazon reviews attest. Night vision is awesome, too. The infrared leds illuminate at least 65 feet out. Price isn't bad, either. Wireless will be more. Reolink has them; sorry to sound like a shill.

For recording the footage, I got a Synology NVR 216. A little pricey, but it did what I wanted--record about 2 months worth of 24/7 video feed for liability purposes.

This NVR is "diskless", which means that it comes without hard drives, which have to be purchased separately. I got one 4 TB Western Digital Purple, which is "optimized" for surveillance applications, whatever that means. The system has been recording a single camera's feed basically 24/7 since May 14, and has so far used 586 GB of the 3,000 GB available on this single hard drive, or about 17% of available capacity. Obviously, if you have two cameras, the storage requirement doubles; with four, quadruples. And, yes, I've already purchased another camera. I'll probably have four total, like you, in the future, when my requirements shift from liability to security. This particular NVR holds up to two hard drives, and an expansion kit allows up to 8 more. I really should get at least one more hard drive.

My particular system is currently set up as wired, meaning the camera and NVR are both connected to my wifi access point/router with network patch cables--those ubiquitous ethernet, Cat 5, RG-45 terminated "computer cables" that connect work computers to the jack in the wall, etc.

If you go wireless, especially with four cameras, you'll have to upgrade your local network to gigabit speeds. I should do that, too, and when I do, I'll probably go with a Linksys WRT AC3200. I'm currently running a Linksys WRT-54GL and, frankly, my local LAN bogs down a bit when I stream a movie while the video gear is running (which is all the time).

Guess I'm a bit of a geek. There are actually a lot of people here who are knowledgeable with DIY security CCTVs. I started from zero back in April or May, asked advice here, and actually went with Synology after it was recommended by a regular, here. I'll find that link, later; need to run right now. Update: You'll probably find this link interesting; it's a /r_neworleans thread from six months ago--lot's of perspectives different from my own that may work better for you.

One more thing: I had originally used DHCP to assign IP addresses to the camera and NVR, but the camera kept renewing its lease to a different address, and the NVR stopped recording when it lost the feed. I finally got around to puzzling out how to assign static addresses. Turns out that the WRT software assigns DHCP addresses at 100 and above. So, I just set the camera to 192.168.1.50 and the NVR to 192.168.1.51. Also, the Synology requires port-forwarding to be set up in your router--this was also dead simple. I read documentation for about an hour, then just forwarded some port, I think it was port 5000, in what looked like the right place in the router's set-up software, and it just worked. This way I can access the archive video from my smartphone, as well as the live feed.

I know all this sounds complicated, but it's really not, and there are people here who know this stuff and are more than willing to help out. Also, I know I spent around $1000, which is a lot of money for me. It was hard for me to pull the trigger on all this. But it covers a liability exposure that exceeds my net worth--in other words, an exposure that could force me into bankruptcy. In that light, it was a reasonable price to mitigate a serious risk. I'm satisfied with both the gear and the price.

I have this modem: ARRIS / Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem

and this router: Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi Wireless-G Broadband Router with the firmware swapped out for Tomato.

The router shouldn't have anything to do with limiting the connection speed until that connection speed is amazing (i.e. never).

The mobo doesn't have a receiver. If you're talking about the Gigabyte adapter, it's probably better than most external receivers. Go to device manager to disable the device.

The Linksys WRT54G is the cheapest router that "gets the job done". It's slow but stable, durable and reliable. Think "Nokia of routers".

Then you've got 3 potential TP-LINK routers:

Basic N router: TP-LINK TL-WR841N.
Basic dual band N: TP-LINK TL-WDR3500.
Basic dual band AC IPv6: TP-LINK Archer C5.

I recommend this modem http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825188005 to replace theirs, it's the same or even better. If they had been providing you with a wifi router, I recommend this one http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ . Good luck!

WRT54GL

http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Cisco-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Compatible/dp/B000BTL0OA

Also used in a research project where we bought like ten of these things. They all worked great. They are also the most mature/baseline platform for popular firmware like Tomato.

The new WRT54G have had their memory and flash reduced to cut cost. It was rather convenient (even kind) that Linksys would continue to vend their "L" version with these additional resources to run the more-stable Linux/Busybox firmware at a small premium.

Sadly, I have heard many tales of woe of the post WRT54G v4 VxWorks based devices.

The WRT54GL is still sold new. This can only do 802.11g (54Mbps max yay!) and has fast ethernet ports. Don't like that? Well you can have this Amazon's Choice router that offers 300Mbps wifi performance on only fast ethernet ports.

But the maximum speed rating for wireless is deceptive. It depends on a number of factors such as your channel width, signal strength, and interference. In order to get 300Mbps, the router must operate 40MHz channels and have a strong signal free of interference AND have no devices negotiated to a lower speed.

Right now my TV has negotiated to 300Mbps, and it probably should get that as it is the only device on my wifi at the moment, and it's on the 5GHz band, which has much less interference due to weaker signal propagation and more bandwidth. If it was on the 2.4GHz band, I wouldn't be using a 40MHz channel due to interference concerns, and I would still be subject to HEAVY interference on the band, both from co-channel interference as there are only 3 usable 2.4GHz channels, and cross-channel interference from idiots. Even in a much less crowded environment you can still wind up with interference on the 2.4GHz band. And once you add walls into play, yeah you're going to be hurting.

The cheap "300Mbps" routers like the one I linked above don't do the 5GHz band, so realistically they won't get anywhere near that. Under ideal conditions I would expect them to get around 100Mbps over wifi.

Browser-based speed tests show my internet speed at somewhere around 150Mbps, and this is on DOCSIS technology that is available in most places. I actually have much faster available in my area, but between the cable company charging an arm and a leg and the fact that I'd have to get my landlord's permission to get cable pulled for fiber internet, this is what I have. It however is still fast enough that a cheap router will absolutely be a bottleneck for me.

So yeah, the customer's choice of wifi router can absolutely cause problems.

Camera that auto-uploads to WiFi AP: http://looxcie.com/

A variety of open source mesh WiFi projects: http://openmesh.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/a-list-of-open-source-ad-hoc-network-and-routing-protocolsplatforms/

Hardware is cheap, $55 for a WRT54G that can be firmware modded: http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/product-reviews/B000BTL0OA/ref=sr_1_2_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Apparently its Linksys, not TP Link, my bad. https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA

I know it's over your budget, but this is the one i'd recommend to everybody. I've got one at home and it's stable, hasn't crashed on me once. It also has excellent signal strength and is easy to set-up: Linksys WRT54GL.

As for one within your budget, I think this one should do the trick:
TP-Link WR740N.

Yeah, you could set up MAC address whitelisting. This will let you limit specific devices onto the network. It can be bypassed by someone technologically savvy, (sniff the network for MAC addresses of those allowed on, the attacker can then spoof the MAC address and gain access) but probably not enough to worry about it.

EDIT: The 'equipment' charge will probably be a modem. That should connect to the wall, and then you would hook up your wireless router to the modem. You probably shouldn't get their router, get something like this, as it has compatibility with DD-WRT (an open-source firmware) and will be highly configurable. This one does not have Wireless-N, so plan accordingly.

I just renewed for a 2nd year with Colba.

No throttling, unlimited bandwidth, good service.

Best router ever: WRT54GL (open source firmware)

Cheap little ADSL2+ modem I've been using for 5 years without issue: TP Link TD-8816

http://www.speedtest.net/result/2046862988.png (taken now while gf is on laptop... can usually get up to 12 or 13 down)

You're looking for a wireless router. You can pick one up anywhere. Here's one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/
Most companies wouldn't want you broadcasting their internal network, so you may run into problems with the IT department, but otherwise easy to set up.

1st of you're being an asshole. Talk to your roommates instead of trying to be an internet czar. If they don't know you're doing this you truly are being a dickhead. Living with people comes with sharing. Now just because you always want a no lag LoL connection doesn't mean you can throttle your roommates without telling them.

2nd off the router you have is a piece of shit. You get what you pay for, I'd look at this Asus or this Linksys

I personally have the Linksys and its amazing. It is only G speed but is the most reliable thing I have ever owned. I've had it 3 years now not once have I restarted it or had issues with it. I am running DD-WRT custom firmware on it and that makes a huge difference. Check their site if your router is compatible.

You did some good troubleshooting, the router definitely seems to be the choke point. The only routers and Wifi Repeaters that give me troubles, were the ones people purchased on the cheap. My router at home for comparison, it's an old beast but with the DD-WRT Linux Firmware upgrade, it's awesome.

No worries! And I am sorry, you say that ($50/60) in your OP.

E2500, 2700, or 32oo refurb:

http://store.linksys.com/products/linksys-outlet-refurbished_stcVVcatId543906VVviewcat.htm

This:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085WN7YQ

This gets good reviews at amazon. I have not used one:

http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=zg_bs_300189_2

If you are going to try this brand, I'd get the upgrade for ten bucks more:

http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B00A3YN0Z0/ref=zg_bs_300189_13

This has great range, but out of price range, and single band only:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=zg_bs_300189_28

$73 with rebate though.

I have not used one:

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-App-Enabled-Dual-Band-DIR-826L/dp/B0081TXJ28/ref=zg_bs_300189_33

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Whole-Home-Router-Wireless-N-DIR-645/product-reviews/B005DIPWFC/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

One of those will do it.

No Belkin please, sorry. (And yes I know belkin owns linksys now.)


Here we are back at the real WRT54GL again:

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ref=zg_bs_300189_6

Fifty dollah. Still a good router, for light loads, single band only. I think I'd go with a dual band refurb myself.

I was thinking about a commercial router like this one for example: http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA with a slot for a Raspberry module.

1. Get El Classico, the Linksys WRT54GL.
   
2. Install an open-source firmware build on it.
   
3. Using the built-in management tools, conduct a channel survey to find out which channel has the least interference. Switch to that channel.
   
4. Turn up the power on the radio to the full 200mW.

Just buy something like this. https://smile.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484353834&sr=1-12&keywords=router


You might be able to do something with a switch or AP, if you manually assign everyone IPs, but I'm not 100% sure that would even work. Just get a router so you can use DHCP and your life will be infinitely easier.

This is the router to buy, no questions about it. Just go ahead and do it regardless of what you currently own. It'll make everything easier, and that router can be hacked in about 2 minutes to give it features that usually cost around $600 to get. As for helping you out, I'm not adverse. I should be in town Thursday through Sunday of that week, but earlier in the week I think I may be travelling.