Reddit Reddit reviews Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz

We found 24 Reddit comments about Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz
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24 Reddit comments about Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz:

u/Elltrain_ · 6 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Malifaux minis are pretty darn close to KD in terms of complexity. I really don't think you are going to find anything cheap, but you could probably buy, assemble, and ebay the minis you build (and anything is cheaper than fucking up a KD model). You'll lose a few bucks, but a well assembled mini is worth almost as much as one on the sprue.

I am new to assembly as well, but after about 20 models I don't even sweat it. Everyone on this sub swears by Tamiya liquid cement -- but I think this applicator is 100x better than the brush for most cases:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N6ODS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Basically... take your time, clean up every little piece as it comes off the sprue, dry fit a few times to make sure. It's not that hard, it just takes patience. Sometimes I will sand+dry fit a piece a dozen times before it finally fits perfectly. One thing that I didn't realize for a long time is these things aren't perfect -- sometimes a piece just doesn't fit and its up to you to fix it. A couple of the hands on the Phoenix, for example, were real bastards for me. A really great trick I learned randomly on youtube -- you can use the plastic cement as a kind of seam filler by putting slightly more glue than necessary, so it just barely squeezes out the side. Then cut/sand any excess.

I also recommend grabbing a cheap seam scraper and a very nice sprue cutter (the clippers at home depot are not made for plastic). Also maybe some tools for pinning -- for example, I had a resin base that I wanted to put my antelope on, so he had to be pinned to it rather than glued.

If you are going to paint your models, there's a few more things you should get -- a putty you like, some clay shapers, and some way to do some light sanding.

u/yoda17 · 6 pointsr/modelmakers

Use good glue like the kind that comes with a precision applicator or a liquid glue for joining shell halves or panels. Watch a few youtube videos on gluing.

Do not use the crappy tube glue.

u/CruorVault · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Paints: Most GW paints are fantastic, there are a few exceptions here and there, but you can easily supplement your GW paints with alternatives from Vallejo, Army Painter and P3. This usually comes down to personal taste for most people.

http://www.thewarstore.com/vallejo-game-color-paint.html

http://privateerpress.com/formula-p3/paints

https://www.thearmypainter.com/

Brushes: GW brushes are a joke, they're the same price as really nice brushes like the Windsor Newton series. If you're going to spend $15-$20(US) on a single brush, get something nice not the GW crap.

Hobby Tools: GW's hobby tools are fine. It's hard to mess up simple metal tools. That being said, they're also 3-4x what they should cost. A trip to your local hardware store should net you the same or better products for about 1/4 of what GW wants to charge!

Glue: I hate GW glues personally. I've never had a good experience with them. For plastic assembly I prefer Model Masters and for Super glue I prefer the Bob Smith Industries gap filler medium.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/insta_cure_plus.html. I would be shocked if you can't find this in any number of hobby/craft stores. Worst case scenario, you can get it from Amazon with a couple of days wait time.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-Plastics-1-oz/dp/B0006N6ODS. Best plastic glue around, the metal applicator tip allows for extremely precise application of glue.

Primer: Everyone has different opinions on primer. If you're just getting back into the game I suggest going with GW primer. It rarely has issues and although extremely pricy, it gives an excellent base coat. That being said, any dollar store matte primer will do the trick.

**Once you're back into things, I highly suggest you look at an airbrush. The miniatures world has changed a LOT in the last 20 years, and now airbrushes are cheap and many paints are already formulated for use with them!

u/PseudoArab · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

This shit, right here.

And specifically that one. The metal applicator is fantastic, as it is easy to clean (seriously, why would you use a fat plastic need for plastic cement applications?) and being a thin needle allows you to apply it in hard to reach nooks and crannies.

u/disgustipated · 4 pointsr/ModelCars

The easiest way to remove paint or plating from parts before gluing is to scrape the spot with an X-Acto #11 razor knife. Be patient and take your time, you can get all the paint off.

Second, when you use your Testor's cement, apply it with a toothpick, and use less than you think you'll need. Amazing that it won't hold two painted parts together, but if you get it on paint it'll take that right off. :)

You can use CA (superglue) as well. I use Testor's Model Master cement (love the applicator) for most plastic-to-plastic, and CA for plastic to metal or rubber, as well as for when I need a faster drying time or if I just can't scrape off the finish.

Finally, you have to leave it be while it cures. Model cement works by melting the styrene. Cover the surface of one part with glue, attach the other part, wipe away any excess that squeezes out, then clamp it or wrap it with a rubber band and don't touch it for at least 5-10 minutes. Moving the parts during curing will ruin the bond.

u/solipsistnation · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

Take it slow, then. Spend a lot of time looking at it really closely and absorbing the detail. Listen to sad music while you build (I usually do). Consider how nice it is that there are actually things in the world that fit together and make sense (and since this is a kit from Revell Germany it's probably quite good, and the directions should be easy to follow and sensibly written). Get some liquid model cement like this: http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-For-Plastics-1-15oz/dp/B0006N6ODS ...and some acrylic model paints from a hobby shop or online (Vallejo paints are quite nice, and acrylics clean up with water and won't stink out your room) and maybe a spraycan of some kind of gloss coat-- Testor's makes a decent glosscoat lacquer, and there are others out there too. Test fit before gluing. Use tiny amounts of glue, applied with a toothpick or something similar. Don't use model cement on the clear parts, though-- use good ol' Elmer's Glue (I think-- check our wiki to be sure) and if the clear parts are a little iffy, dip them in Future floor polish ("Pledge with Future Shine"-- it's like a magical model-building liquid). If you mess this one up, there are other kits out there, and you can learn from this one so the next one will be better.

We have a wiki with a lot of general info that may answer other questions, or just ask: http://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/wiki/index

u/Vonderbread · 3 pointsr/KingdomDeath

I did not need to pin him. In fact I've not found the need to pin any of the models because of the glue I use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N6ODS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That stuff emulsifies the plastic a little to create a nice bond, of course be careful with it, but it works great. The harder you press and hold the parts together until it starts to set up the better it fills in seems too. The applicator tip is very helpful for these tiny miniatures as well.

For the SA use masking tape to hold the disk in place if need be, but if you hold him in place for about 5 min it starts to set up enough to hold the base in place then you can turn him upside down so all his weight is off the leg and let him set up for for a day. Usually this stuff sets really fast, the only things that require more time to set are real "load-bearing" spots like the leg here or the left hand of the Dragon God.

Reminder: this glue essentially melts plastic, but as long as you don't bath your minis in it will not harm your model. It only emulsifies the surface it is applied to. It will not eat your model like acid or something.

u/locolarue · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

There's your problem, PVA glue is for basing, not for miniatures. You want plastic glue or thick super glue.

u/lashiel · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

KD was my first time assembling minis. I definitely had some trepidation over the whole thing, but really it's not bad.

Now, I admit, I had some guidance from a coworker, but I'll pass all that guidance onto you right now. All you need are the following three items:

  • Plastic cement. This stuff is great, and is the best thing to use for plastic models (even Adam recommends it--even this brand specifically, I believe). It actually melts the plastic together to create the bond. Now, this may sound scary, but the great thing about it is it doesn't act as fast as super glue, which means you have time to play with the join to get it just right (while it still dries fast enough to be convenient). Just be careful to not get it on your fingers while holding a join, or you may leave fingerprints (a little goes a long way, and this isn't hard to avoid).
  • A flush cutter. That's the one I use and it works great. You'll use this to snip the individual pieces from the sprue (that's what the sheets of plastic that you get are called. A sprue represents what comes from a single mold, and has many pieces attached to it, which you will need to snip free to assemble). It's super easy--just take your time to make sure you don't cut off more than you need to. Many pieces come with extra plastic to assist with the join (kinda like puzzle pieces--they fit together, you just still need to glue them).

  • A standard Xacto knife. I won't link this, cause honestly any will do. You'll use this to clean up your pieces. Primarily you'll probably use it to deal with the excess plastic left from where the two halves of the mold joined (also known as "flash"). I generally like gently scraping this away with the back side of the Xacto knife, almost like I'm sanding it. You can also use this to cut off any excess, if you don't get a joint snipped off quite clean with the flush cutters (better to cut off too little with those than too much!).

    Basically, the key once you have these tools is to take your time. Consult a guide like vibrantlantern.com, which another poster mentioned, and which was an invaluable resource to me.

    A mini takes me anywhere from an hour (really complex monster), to 20 minutes, generally. They can go much faster once you get the system down, but I like taking time to figure out exactly what the mini should look like (for the armor kits).

    Throw on some music, or Netflix (or whatever helps you pass the time without distracting you too much), maybe grab a beer, and make an evening of it.

    It's also worth noting that all you need to start playing is the White Lion, and the four Starting Survivors. These all come on a single sprue, and are really quite simple to assemble given the above directions and tools. That will get you through several hours of gameplay just by itself, and then from there you can move on to creating other monsters and survivors as you need or want them.

    Hope this helps!
u/Lord_Derp_The_2nd · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

FYI: You will want to use Plastic Cement for these hard plastic models. It will give superior results when compared to super glue.

I recommend looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-Plastics-1-oz/dp/B0006N6ODS

The Model Masters (an offshoot of Testors, so a well-known brand) has a very nice this applique needle to apply very small amounts to precise locations. It'll keep you from ruining your new expensive figures! The game can be played without them. Take your time assembling, fixing, sanding, etc.

u/neromir · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I'm a big fan of the Testors ModelMasters variety: http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-For-Plastics-1-15oz/dp/B0006N6ODS

The "ModelMasters" part is significant because it has a small metal applicator that is very clog resistant.

There are other brands that other people really like as well that have the metal applicator needle, but I can't remember what they are, off-hand.

u/indigoswirl · 2 pointsr/ModelCars

What happened?

Also, I highly recommend upgrading to this - Better Plastic Cement

u/flounderflound · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

If you're using Testors, go with their Model Master line. This one in particular. The cement comes out a long steel tube about the size of a pin, so the flow is much easier to control. These come with two rods to clear any blockages as well.

u/liefbread · 2 pointsr/DnD

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-Plastics-1-oz/dp/B0006N6ODS If you're doing a lot of plastic model stuff, treat yourself to one of these. It lets you shift around the piece to set it in place but has a nice sticky hold and after a couple of hours will actually melt the plastics together making them have a solid one piece bond.

u/RansomedAmbassador · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k
u/crazedhatter · 1 pointr/transformers

You would have to be extremely careful, but you might be able to do it using this.

It has a very tiny, needle thin applicator that should allow you to avoid gluing the joint, but as I said you'll want to be REALLY careful. I think you're probably okay if you just handle it gently though, if you'd rather not take the risk.

u/bigbananaberry · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

well imo, Testor's Liquid Cement For Plastics is the best thing out there for assembling plastic models. Stuff only works on plastic so if you get it on your hands or anything else, you can wipe it off and it's fine. Also it gives you some time to adjust the model unlike super glue. http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Liquid-Cement-Plastics/dp/B0006N6ODS

u/Mannwich86 · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

I was able to assemble my entire core set plus 11/12 expansions with these items:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N6ODS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1JYXKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The clippers are still going strong and the files work nicely. I have no mold lines or excess glue on my minis and I filled in some gaps with green stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Strip-RPR-75006/dp/B001BR8AU8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1498688095&sr=8-10&keywords=Green+stuff

You can usually find it a bit cheaper. Hopefully, that helps!

u/Mooberries · 1 pointr/Zoids

Just my thoughts on gluing these models. I have built 4 of these HMM models (Shield Liger, Blade Liger Bang Ver. [Pic](https://i.imgur.com/VU5go5C.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/VU5go5C.jpg), Raven's Geno Saurer, and the PK Iron Kong.) I glue all, non-moving pieces, and the reason is because, when you don't do that, the models are VERY fragile. I built the first one (the Shield Liger) without glue, and kept having issues where parts would fall off while trying to pose. I eventually stripped it all down and rebuilt it with glue because of that. I like to pose these models because there is so much articulation to them, that posing them is a joy. Using glue basically makes them an action figure.

​

This is the "glue" I use: Model Master - Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. This stuff basically fuses the plastic to plastic, so that's why glue is in parenthesis, so be VERY careful. I like that it has a needle like tube that allows you to use a very minimal amount, and 1 bottle lasts for many builds. Just my 2 cents from a guy who actively builds with glue.

u/Vitachan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

A couple drops of this http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Cement-For-Plastics-1-15oz/dp/B0006N6ODS should solve your problem. Just make sure to wipe any excess off before it dries :)

u/FenrisFrost · 1 pointr/twilightimperium

From the world of Warhammer I learned about this stuff

Great glue for plastic. I don't know if it will work on the TI plastics but it essentially melts the piece and makes it stick back together. I would try this on that plastic and see.

u/aVaultDweller · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

I currently use the testors black bottle glue. It's a very thin product and is easily applied in small amounts through a very thin steel tube applicator tip. The red twin pack glue is a thick gel that is a bit more unwieldy to apply. It's been years since i've used the thick gel type and I recomend using the black bottle stuff. It's the type of glue that will melt the plastic and create a permanent bond.

Reading the packaging a little closer it looks like the black bottle now uses a plastic applicator tip. This model master version (still Testors) has the metal tip, which I like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=psdc_2236128011_t1_B00005CA7S

Games Workshop has a glue that is the same as the black bottle Testors/model master but the the GW bottle isn't as good and the applicator tube can pull out of the bottle on you if you're not careful.

u/Jioto · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

No Amazon considers it an add on item and won't let me buy it alone. Has to be bought with something else making the order more than 25. That's why I was wondering if it matters what brand or if I could pick another one on there like Liquid Cement For Plastics 1 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6ODS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bl5FzbVNY0BDB