Reddit Reddit reviews Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue

We found 25 Reddit comments about Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Tapes, Adhesives & Sealants
Cyanoacrylate Adhesives
Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue
Rubber-toughened, instant adhesive resists impact, shock, vibration and temperature extremesIdeal for metal, rubber, ceramics, wood, leather, paper and plasticsComes in a patented, side-squeeze design for maximum control and airtight storageGlue dries Clear and sets without clamping0.14 fl oz.; 1 Each
Check price on Amazon

25 Reddit comments about Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue:

u/wcfore01 · 8 pointsr/minipainting

I LOVE [Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue] (http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)

It is very strong and very easy to use with the squeeze control being built in to the container itself. It also dries in a couple minutes

u/knuck887 · 6 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

This is the el wire- excuse mobile

Lychee Neon Light El Wire with Battery Pack, 15 Feet, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EENNHMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wb-.zbMXQ6FDS

And I'd recommend using some scotch or painting tape with a fifteen foot string to trace out the path you want to glue down. It will make it much easier, but it does take a while.

Also, use gel glue. It's shock/water proof. I'd recommend 2 of those if you're using a full face helmet

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qe-.zbFH9CXFF

u/Debonkulous · 5 pointsr/SWlegion

I tend to buy superglue from my local grocery store. Any kind of “Gel” superglue is what I prefer to use. Loctite has always worked really well for me!

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

Here’s an amazon link as well

u/yoimdumbsry · 3 pointsr/lepin

The original LEGO design has the same design flaw - the magnets are just too strong. (kinda need to be) I tried to do this without using glue as well but at the end of the day, it really makes no difference. I would suggest Loctite. I used it with my lepin ISD and everything went fine. (almost 2 years now)

Just four dabs on the magnet holder studs will do just fine. The ones that have an extra lego piece, glue those 4 studs too. If I recall correctly, all the magnet location instructions should be fine and everything should line up but the glue really isn't all that permanent. I have sometimes pried off glued pieces using a knife and/or pliers with minimal damage.

If you are having issues with the wings falling apart, make sure to apply a lot of pressure on a flat, level surface to ensure all the long panels are inserted all the way. It takes a bit of force with the real LEGO pieces because of the size but sometimes a bit more with lepin.

I had a much easier time with the UCS Venator because of my UCS ISD lepin experience, but that one has some different issues.

u/MoogleMan3 · 3 pointsr/headphones

A dab of super glue and you'll be back in business. I like the gel stuff. Really good.

u/mcffles · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I only really use superglue for magnets and the very few amount of resin models we have, but i really like this one: Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nb9KDbT7PGKD6 because i have an insane amount of control over the amount that comes out, it is a pretty small bottle as far as i can tell though so if you need a lot of glue, i wouldn't recommend it.

u/nicely11b · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

No problem. CA is just super glue. I use Loctite Ultra Gel. It's nice and thick so I can apply it with a lot of control. I just use a needle in a pin vise to apply it and then once it's built up and dried on the needle, I burn it off with a lighter to refresh the needle.

What kind of paints are you looking for? It's hard to specify brands since they all kinda have their own place. I personally prefer to use lacquers out of my airbrush, so my go to paints for that are Mr Paint, Gunze Mr Color, and Tamiya. For brush painting, I like to use Vallejo Model Color acrylics. Ammo of Mig and AK Interactive have a good line of acrylic paints, but they don't brush as well, IMO, as Vallejo Model Color. You should be able to google them all and find them. If you need links I can get them, but I'm also on mobile right now so it's a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're in the US, I do my paint shopping at Hobbyworld-USA.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me, I'm happy to help.

u/obylix_work · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

super glue that i used

has worked great for reattaching an x-wing laser cannon and 2 pegs

my raider came with the front peg holder broken off, so every time i put it on or off peg i fear it will break again, but that damn super glue connection almost seems the strongest part of the ship now lol

u/bmkerce · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Oh no sorry to hear that! I would use this
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519869341&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+ultra+gel&dpID=51RApY2mL2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I have never had any problems in the past with this glue. place VERY fine amounts on her finger tips. This is what I would do, and I firmly believe it will work out fine.

So sorry :(

Edit: I purchase this from home depot all the time, but amazon would work fine. Keep me posted!

u/mutantfunk2 · 2 pointsr/funkopop

This is what I use whenever a pop breaks. It works pretty good. I use it on a lot of things like acrylic, metal, wood etc. dries pretty fast also

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m6TpzbQKTCDFG

u/xylltch · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the stuff I use at work (computer repair); it works fine for gluing feet back onto laptops so it should be good for your keyboard. Pretty much any hardware store should have it.

u/JigglyKneecaps · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Altering is something I'm really enjoying. It's nice knowing your mini is different. To answer your questions:

The most difficult part with altering the sword was making sure I didn't cut the blades incorrectly leaving them too short or long, as well as making sure they were flush. Then it's just a matter of gluing them in place. I recommend picking up Loctite Gel Superglue. I'm finding it works well with Bones figures and gives you a lot more control.

The runes were part of the new blades I cut from the Rauthuros figure. I just dry-brushed them blood red, then highlighted using an extremely small brush.

I'll set to work on pictures of a couple other figures I have here next to me and make a new post for you to check out.

u/justinoconnor · 1 pointr/cats60

I used this glue -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G/

I really tried to use as tiny amount as possible and kept it closed while it dried. It was a little stuck when I opened it, carefully scraped the parts that needed it. Definitly still waterproof per light testing.

u/discodover · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I use loctite super glue on pla and it works great too. Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GY-UCbGDJ010B

u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/modelmakers

If you use Zap a Gap or similar they have a removable tip. It seems to stay very clog free with minimal buildup on the tip. Maybe the plastic they use has something to do with it, but my bottle seems fairly clean. That and I like the Loctite control type glues which have the squeeze sides. They tend to let me keep the tip clean as no glue seems to leak out unless I squeeze them. They also have great formulas imo. Gel or liquid depending on your needs.

u/8BitOnYourChin · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I read a study someone had done in the past few months, and oddly enough, testing PLA specific glues and other various specialty glues, the study concluded that Loctite Gel Ultra Control Superglue drastically outperformed all of the other glues as far as ease of use and overall strength bond. That being the case, I've been using it to assemble the 20" Voltron model I've been printing since Christmas and it's worked wonderfully.

link

u/kvasieh · 1 pointr/Necrontyr

Try getting Gel Superglue (like this). Apply a decent dob in the joints, then plop the arms in there and hold for 15 seconds. You can still move them a tad after, but they won't fall out. Let them set for a few minutes before putting any large amount of tension on them and you should be golden.

Second option is to use an accelerator, like this. Apply glue to the joint, then spray/dip the arm ball in kicker, and put it into the joint. This will set very quickly. It's also exothermic, so if you get glue on your hands and don't notice, then get kicker on there, it can be fairly painful.

Last, a helping-hands can be quite useful if you have it laying around. I use this one for electronics, and it works pretty well holding awkward model parts for letting glue set.

u/sizziano · 1 pointr/overclocking

Ah ok, I ordered the stuff that Rockit cool recommended. I'll write up a similar post when all the stuff arrives.

u/metameh · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Welcome to the hobby!

  1. Short answer: No. Long answer: -ish, but mostly no. DIfferent sub-factions have access to different tactics, stratagems, and units, but no-one worth playing with is going to fault you for running your red painted marines as Ultramarines or vice versa.

  2. I recommend this brand/style of paint set If you keep your focus small, these paints will last you a long time. For washes, I recommend this and this to start. Using a spray can from Army painter is also an easy way to get your base coat down. Brushes are a tricky thing to recommend. Some of the best miniature painters in the world use the cheapest brushes so there's no way to make a solid recommendation. FWIW, I've used the citadel (point wouldn't keep), army painter (too soft), and vallejo brushes and prefer that latter far more.

  3. Generally, 2 thin coats. It can be more with lower pigmented paints (like Reaper) or if you're trying to paint a lighter color on a dark undercoat. As mentioned above, you can also use army painter rattle cans to do your undercoat. Then they're just detail work and a wash away from "table top standard".

  4. Youtube is full of great hobby videos. This video has a good run down of some common and uncommon brands of paint. They also have a useful video for washes.

  5. Variable. Beginners will always take longer. Some minis are more complicated than others. Some may require extra steps like washing before assembly. For plastic models [this](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G?aaxitk=yw87pCjpm4VEKpuh.qGtFQ&pd_rd_i=B003Y49R7G&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=6960164520701&sb-ci-n=productDescription&sb-ci-v=Loctite%20Ultra%20Gel%20Control%20Super%20Glue%204-Gram%20(1363589) is a great glue. Spraying on your base coat will definitely speed things up, but the more detailed a model is, the longer it will take. Some people even drill holes and glue in magnets so the can swap weapons around on their minis.

  6. Yes, but I really would advise against starting with Dark Imperium. It's a good deal if you are intent on getting into full army battles and you know you'll make use of both factions/be able to sell one. Kill Team is a better entry point because the only investment in plastic crack you need to make is one box of troops for your preferred faction. It will also give you a feel for the rules and if this is a game you like enough to invest in.

    One more thing: terrain makes games of 40K great, but buying manufactured terrain can be very expensive. I recommend buying a double sided battle mat made of mousepad material. These are good mats in the US/Canada and these are good in the EU. As for your large, line of sight blocking terrain, I recommend...building it yourself. Wyloch's Armory is an excellent place to start with crafting your own terrain.

    I hope this helps, and if you have more questions, please feel free to ask.
u/Davesnothear · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Something like this would work too.

u/smillzosaur · 1 pointr/applehelp

+1 this tip. I recommend the super glue gel to keep it from dripping into the headphone jack, possibly causing further issues.

u/redwoodser · 1 pointr/DIY

This would be great to fill small dents in the floor. Just drip it in. Dries clear. If you use a wood putty of any kind, from 10 feet away, it will look like you dropped something on the floor https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474861033&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+glue

u/The_rarest_CJ · -6 pointsr/Vive

Use some anti blur gel on your lenses and rub some in your eyes. My friend recommended some and it didn't work for me , I fact it blinded me, Buuuut it might just work for you.
Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G



*typed using microsoft talk to text



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