Reddit Reddit reviews Master Airbrush TC-20T Airbrush Compressor with Air Storage Tank, Water Trap and Regulator

We found 27 Reddit comments about Master Airbrush TC-20T Airbrush Compressor with Air Storage Tank, Water Trap and Regulator. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Artists Painting Supplies
Airbrush Painting Supplies
Arts, Crafts & Sewing
Painting, Drawing & Art Supplies
Master Airbrush TC-20T Airbrush Compressor with Air Storage Tank, Water Trap and Regulator
MASTER Airbrush Brand Quiet 1/5 hp AIRBRUSH COMPRESSOR Air Tank-2 Yr WarrantyHigh Performance Airbrush Compressor with TankProvides "Air-On-Demand" with Constant Pressure and Zero Pulsation1/5 Horsepower this unit delivers more Air Volume (CFM) and Air Pressure (PSI)Our Most Popular Airbrush Compressor!
Check price on Amazon

27 Reddit comments about Master Airbrush TC-20T Airbrush Compressor with Air Storage Tank, Water Trap and Regulator:

u/AenarIT · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k
  1. An airbrush is DEFINITELY worth it. Both money- and time-wise. Plus the vehicles (and other large flat surfaces) will be covered in a very nice way, something you cannot do with a brush.

  2. Try to get a cheap (20-40$) airbrush, since it is hard to properly clean and you need to practice with it before fully appreciating a 200$ one. Look for a double action airbrush.

  3. Try to get a good compressor, since it will last and will serve you in the future. Look for a compressor with an air tank, 3L is enough. I bought mine for 100$ and it works wvery well (it should be this one).

  4. As an airbrush station you can use a cardboard box, plus some cardboard or newspaper to protect your table/desktop.

  5. You will need some cleaning supplies, like an Airbrush Cleaner (I suggest the Vallejo one, but you can find something cheaper), a needle-like tip to clean small holes, ...

  6. Finally, you will need some paints. You can use the standard GW ones, but you need to thin them down with a proper Thinner (I suggest Vallejo's one, again). You can also look into the Citadel Air range. My suggestion is to get some Vallejo Game Air or Vallejo Model Air paints for the color you need most (primer, basecoat, ..), then use your Citadel paints thinned down for the less used colors. Vallejo paints come in dropper bottles, MUCH MUCH BETTER than the standard Citadel pots for airbrushing.
u/HoathZX · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

In terms of starter compressors, this is the one usually recommended.
This has both a pressure gauge and moisture trap along with a tank. Only issue is you may need to buy a different size hose and/or adaptor as airbrushes vary in connector size and not sure if it would fit the one you have. The reason for a tank is that it allows for a more constant air pressure as air is coming from the tank reserve and not directly from the compressor which can give some variance on your pressure as you spray which can affect your paint job. It also takes load off the compressor as they will generally sleep once the tank is full and pressure is met therefore extending the life of the compressor as it won't be constantly on as you spray.

u/glon · 3 pointsr/lasercutting

I use my airbrush for applying anything that I can, be that paint/stain/finish etc. Aside from saving money on paint you get much better results with a bit of practice. Smoother transitions etc etc. This is especially true with laser cut projects as I will often mask whatever it is that I am making, which allows me to spray the engraved/cut parts with an airbrush, and then remove the masking for perfect is an example Basically an airbrush is GREAT in combination with a laser cutter, that said, there is a cost. I'll provide you some links to my setup.



fume hood

masking material

Also there will be a smattering of paints/cleaners/paint thinners and airbrush cleaning supplies you'll need. So you are probably looking at $300-500 investment to get a good set up. Now clearly you can spend less on the airbrush, and if you plan on working outside, you can skip the fume hood etc etc, but just know that you won't be saving money on this right off the bat. All that said I heartily recommend getting one

u/YammerEnt · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Get an airbrush. Nothing fancy is really needed, just something that works. I used a cheaper airbrush for a long time before I felt I needed an upgrade. I started with this brush: and this compressor: I still use that compressor, and now use this brush:

edit: I would also point out that this was my first model that I had even attempted this sort of shading on. It turned out well, but I got a lot of my inspiration and technique from this guy:

u/Licentious_Cad · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Of course; you can generally break compressors into 2 broad categories, tank and tank-less. Because you're probably going to be working on precise projects for long periods you'll ideally want a compressor with a tank. Tank-less compressors can have fluctuations in air pressure that can mess with your painting. This is a good compressor, it's the one I own. You can also get it bundled with an Iwata HP-CS. It does run a bit hot, so be careful handling it after working for a long period, or take regular breaks (something you should probably do either way)

If that's a bit too expensive, wait for a local hobby story to have one of those "1/2 off one item" coupons, or shop around. You just want a tanked compressor and a braided hose. Just make sure that the hose is compatible withe the compressor and the brush. The connector for the HP-CS is 1/8". Tanks will vary, the one linked above has a 1/4" connector. So you'd either need a symmetrical hose, and an adapter, or an asymmetrical hose.

u/Gerwalkun · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use a similar model to this one from the buying guide. This is definitely a bigger option, but I feel like it won't clutter up even a small room. It's about the size of 2 shoeboxes stacked on top of each other and smaller than a PC tower.

u/Jackdoesderp · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

u/GenghisSwann · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I got this compressor and absolutely love it. Airbrush Depot TC-20T AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR WITH WATER TRAP AND REGULATOR

The next question is what is she going to be painting, small detail stuff or more large coverage ??

u/Currix · 2 pointsr/OOAKDOLLS

First of all, whatever you choose, make sure it's double action and gravity fed.

A couple of months ago I bought my first airbrush kit.

After A LOT of research, I decided to go for an Iwata Neo CN airbrush. It's great quality and reliable, as all Iwata products are, but still more economic, which makes it great for beginners. It comes with two interchangeable cups in two sizes, which I find very practical.
With proper cleaning and maintenance, it should last a long, long time. So far, mine has been a delight to use.
It's around 55 USD on Amazon.

In my case, I preferred buying from a known, quality brand. I'm not saying the more inexpensive chinese airbrushes can't get the job done, but I'm very meticulous with my works and I'd rather minimize the chance of an unexpected failure.

Paasche is another well-known airbrush brand. I found this kit which might also fit your criteria.

One strong suggestion: do not go cheap on the compressor. It's the motor that will power whichever airbrush/es you decide to get, so it's important that it's good. I'm not telling you to buy the most expensive ones, of course, but to avoid the cheaper, smaller ones.

I recommend a compressor with a tank. The tank helps store air at the desired pressure, avoiding pulsations in the air flow. This also allows the piston to only start when the pressure drops below a certain point, saving energy and piston life, while avoiding overheating and constant noise. Additionally, the tank helps condense the humidity of the air in it (it sinks to the bottom and can be emptied), thus decreasing the risk of water droplets suddenly coming out of the airbrush (getting an additional water/humidity trap also helps).

Here is an example of one such compressor (it looks bigger than it is haha).
There might be cheaper ones; just make sure to check the reviews thoroughly to check for possible common issues, and to make sure the company provides customer support.

No matter what you buy, maintenance is key. Learn how to clean your airbrush. Make sure you're using the correct cleaning product (for instance, it's not recommended to clean certain varnishes with alcohol, as they get sticky and it makes it harder to remove from the airbrush). Clean it as soon as possible; some materials dry way faster than others, so look into that. If you're not going to use the airbrush for a long time, applying some airbrush lube on the needle is a good idea.
Cleaning it is fast and easy once you get used to it.

Sorry for the long comment, and I hope it helped in any way! :)

There's lots of articles and videos online, too; just Google things like "Good airbrush for beginners" and "How to choose an airbrush".

*Edited because typos, and a formatting fail 🤦🏻‍♀️

u/7x13 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Spend a little more and get the Master Airbrush TC-20T. It'll be worth it in the long run.

He Iwata NEO is a good Airbrush to start with, not only that many craft and hobby stores have replacement parts readily available for them which is pretty convenient.

u/Vonschlippe · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

This is what I recommend as a starting compressor.

I had one that lasted me three years before I upgraded to a different one. It has a tank, moisture trap, and regulator. Pretty damn quiet too! All you need is a 1/8 bsp hose to fit your airbrush onto it.

u/Dr_Von_Spaceman · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The airbrush will be complete, and the compressor will be complete, and with any luck the airbrush will include an air hose. Those are pretty much the only things you need to get going. My airbrush (a Paasche) did not include the hose, but I didn't get a "complete package" deal either.

You can use any compressed air source - pancake compressor or industrial strength Ingersoll-Rand diesel-powered air compressor. However, I suggest getting a dedicated airbrushing compressor. I've got a cheap Harbor Freight pancake compressor for inflating tires and it is loud as sin. My TC-20T clone, on the other hand, I can use in the house without annoying people even at night. This compressor is well worth the modest amount of money. A tankless version is also available, but the tanked version was recommended to me and I've enjoyed it.

For what it's worth, I live in a 2-bedroom duplex. My hobby space is against the shared wall with the other unit. The neighbors have said they have never heard it. If I close the hobby room door, you can't hear the compressor in the hallway.

u/BT9154 · 2 pointsr/resinkits

If you don't want to invest a huge sum up front then as /u/TheRealMacLeod said you can pick up a normal $100 compressor & airbrush kit on amazon. I myself have been using a $100ish compressor with an air tank and $20 Chinese import gravity fed dual action air brush for my whole air brush career and if you look through my post history a cheap airbrush is not a deal breaker. One thing I learned is you have to take care of the airbrush so an end of session cleaning routine is a must for any airbrush to give good results.

This is what I use



u/Tweakers · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

You're going to find that you can either get some decent gear upfront for a realistic price, or you can go cheap and have to replace poorly performing gear almost immediately, which is the expensive way to go. These items below come in within your listed budget and will give you good service for years.

Get a compressor with a tank. Those cheap air compressors may save you thirty dollars upfront, but you're really going to regret having that on-demand-only air pressure bobbing up and down and screwing up your air flow. This Master TC-20T is a good buy. Get the TC-40T for twenty dollars more if you're going to want to do other types of spray paint art in the future. This one has more endurance before heating up. I own one of these and they are quality gear at a good price.

Get a decent starter air brush. This Iwata Neo Dual Action is good for a starter and yet isn't too expensive so if you screw it up you won't break the bank. At the same time, the machining of the parts is much, much better than those cheap Master sets which really aren't good at all. Granted, you may get lucky and get a good-yet-cheap Master air brush, but more likely than not, you'll spend most of your time trying to get the thing to give you a spray without splatter.

Get a quick release coupling set for the airbrush. Having to use a wrench to attach the air brush gets old really, really fast -- like immediately -- and the ten or so bucks makes it a great deal. Iwata-Medea Quick Disconnect Set

u/XenophonTheAthenian · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I can't remember if this is the compressor I have or not, but there's a ton of clones just like it at varying price ranges. Whichever clone I've got has served me pretty well

u/IgwanaRob · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Search ebay for "TC-20T" - currently there's a Zeny listed that comes with the hose, regulator, water trap, and the tank (that's the one I got). You can catch them on sale for as low as $30 every now and then, but even at $60 it's a steal. It's one of the same models re-badged by several other companies like Masters/Sparmax/PointZero/etc for a lot more (ie:

u/alecKarfonta · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Got one of these:

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.

Happy painting

u/FrankTheSpaceMarine · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For that money you could probably pick up a relatively good airbrush/compressor set. If he's never used one before it would be a fairly big change in his painting process, but I've yet to meet a modeller that doesn't lust after that smooth airbrush finish!

Paasche make excellent airbrushes, this looks like quite a good one. This would be a sufficient compressor to pair it with although you may need an adapter if the lone user review is to be trusted. This would leave you some budget left to pick up extra supplies like paint thinning solution (for making normal acrylics airbrush friendly).

u/kablaq · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

u/Aimnlo · 1 pointr/airbrush

I've only had two but getting one with an air tank helps. That way it only runs to keep the tank full.
I've been happy with this one and it's fairly quiet. Much quieter than the Badger one I'd had before.

u/morganfnf · 1 pointr/BloodAngels




These are all that I use and have been nothing but happy with them. I'm one of those with the mindset that if I'm going to invest, I'm going to invest - and the Iwata Eclipse is praised far and wide as one of, if not the, best airbrush out there.

u/jwarenec1 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.


u/Wood_Eye · 1 pointr/minipainting

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

u/VentureGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use the Neo CN and my only gripe with it is that the paint cup is small for doing large parts in batches(think PG large - but it's good for almost everything else). It's very easy to tear down and clean. Another issue is that the O-ring for the cup will break down quickly if you keep it around lacquer/enamel thinners, but it doesn't seem to be necessary (My cup no longer has the O-ring and there's no leaks).

For compressors try looking for used ones on eBay or craigslist (You're looking for one that delivers at least 30 PSI with oil-less single or double piston operation). You can get name brand one with a deep discount. Most compressors made for hobbyists come with regulators already so no big deal. Try to get a name brand one such as Testors, Silentaire, Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Grex. The designs from Master and unbranded are all copies of the ones made by Silentaire and others. I can't comment on the quality but they get lots of good ratings and recommendations. Here's a prime example. Noise can definitely be an issue, so do look into quieter options with tanks if you live in an apartment complex. I use a old model Testors AC 200 and it can run for 3 hours easily without thermal protection kicking in. I picked it up for 40 dollars on ebay.

Honestly if you use a proper hobby thinner with your paint you'll never have part brittleness unless you just pool a crap ton of paint. Lacquer thinner (the medium with the worst rap) can dissolve polystyrene and ABS, but when paint atomizes from the airbrush, most of the thinner already evaporates as it travels the distance to the part. When most of the paint hits, the worst enemy of your plastic is already in the air. Hardware store thinner can be much harsher than hobby brand thinners (Mr. Hobby Thinner/Leveling Thinner/GaiaNotes Thinner/Tamiya X-20A lacquer thinner), even then I know a few users here use hardware store lacquer thinner with no issues. But if you're afraid of paint brittle-ness you can just stick to acrylics such as Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel/Games Workshops, etc. They are easier to clean up and the fumes aren't near as bad as lacquers (still need a mask for particles, though). I wouldn't recommend spraying a lot of enamels as base color though, as enamel thinner can also make parts brittle and unlike lacquer it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. Not to mention everytime I'd spray testors or tamiya enamels they'd be quite difficult to clean out of the airbrush.

Another thing to consider when you're choosing your type of paint is where you can spray. If you can only spray inside and you don't have the money for a really good spray booth, you should stick with acrylics. Acrylics also require good ventilation but you can get away with a strong fan blowing out a window and a respirator as well. Lacquers fumes are carcinogenic. I spray mine outside with a fan running behind me and my organic vapor respirator on. I'll be investing in a spray booth further down the line but it's important to consider your workspace.

u/The_cogwheel · 1 pointr/airbrush

If this was the kit you're looking at then I should warn you that it is missing the compressor. If you already have an air compressor capable of producing a steady 20PSI then you'll be good to go, but if you still need a compressor them, fair warning: the compressor can be just as expensive as the airbrush itself - which is probably why they didnt include one in that kit. Asside from a missing compressor, it does look like a solid kit