Reddit Reddit reviews Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz by Microscale Industries

We found 10 Reddit comments about Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz by Microscale Industries. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz by Microscale Industries
Microscale BMF128 Micro Sol setting solution MSSOL
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10 Reddit comments about Micro Sol Setting Solution, 1 oz by Microscale Industries:

u/Massawyrm · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

Mirco-sol, baby. Softens the decal, makes it conform to the contours, and makes it look a lot more like paint.

u/elescapo · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Another method (in addition to varnishing) is to use Micro Set and Micro Sol. Brush the Micro Set on the surface before you apply the decal, and then brush on Micro Sol after the decal is in place. Micro Sol softens the decal medium and causes it to conform to the surface. It's really good for making it seem like the transfers are painted on.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Setting-Solution-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O9K5Q/

u/disgustipated · 2 pointsr/ModelCars

The console decal took quite a bit of fiddling to get it just right. If it was just a hair off in any direction, it would bunch up around the shifter hole. The dash laid down great, but with the trim rings and switches, I had to hit it over and over with Micro Sol until it finally flattened out.

u/TheScarlettHarlot · 2 pointsr/Warthunder

That looks fantastic, dude!

Mind if I offer a little advice? Use Micro Sol on your decals after they are applied. It dissolves the film, leaves the ink, and gets rid of that "decal sheen" like you see there.

u/Fongore · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use this and this for my water decals. Love the way the decals come out.

u/wyijx · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

As a preface this was my first Gunpla model coming back to the hobby and taking it a little more seriously. I built a few no grade and a couple HG Gundam Wing sets back in my youth when Gundam Wing was big and Toonami was still around.

So I picked up this RG Qan[T] knowing next to nothing about 00 Gundam but just liked the design of the suit. I may look into a higher grade of the suit in the future (MG probably)

A lot of you guys might recognize me as Thu from the group Discord. If you are not yet a member of the Discord I highly recommend it. A great friendly community and I have quite a few people I owe everything I've learned about Gunpla to.

I'm gonna do a few posts of the three completed builds I've finished since starting again, and I'd like to detail my growth through out them so hopefully I can offer some help to others growing in the hobby. If you want to ask me any questions feel free to message me here or reach out to me on the Discord channel. I'm Thu#3048, friend me if you like.

I began building this around early October and wrapped up the build probably late November.


The Build:

Overall the snapfitting process of this suit is like most of the other RG's I've done now, it's pretty sturdy and doesn't really risk parts falling off. My only complaint is the arm holding the shield isn't the most sturdy and risks disconnecting quite frequently.

It has a solid few gimmicks to it that are pretty sweet but using all the blades to form the huge sword is probably the best. Unfortunately it is way too heavy for the model to hold up on it's own.

This being my first painted kit I used a NEO Airbrush, Vallejo primer, paint and top coat (varnish in Vallejo's case). Vallejo has great colored acrylic paints and I recommend them if you're looking for the least toxic options out there. Be aware those they are water based acrylics, and because of that it tends to dry on the needle of your air brush and it becomes a mildly annoying sticking point to clean the nozzle and needle in the air brushing process. In a few longer sessions (around an hour and a half) I would have to do it maybe up to three times. That being said it's very easy to clean your brush (just water will do fine most of the time) and spraying a windex solution through there will clean it out. Acrylics are great for when you're getting the hang of it, if you mess up, just plop the piece in a bowl of windex and then brush it with a soft bristle toothbrush to remove the paint layers.

There are not yet any available water slide decals for this kit so I opted to pick up the HG decals, and although there are a few ratio differences between this kit and the HG despite the HG being also 1/144. But I felt satisfied with them in the end, and tailored a few to suit my own flair.

For panel lining I simply thinned grey (for white and yellow) and black (all other colors) enamel paint using Ronsonol lighter fluid. Although I found this technique effective enough, the lighter fluid evaporates very quickly so in the end some panel lines were more pronounced (when it was less thinned) than others (when I added back thinner). Which to me left the panel lines a little inconsistent.

What I learned in this build
This kit was a lot of firsts for me, but in a quick way:

Snapfit

  1. Cut pieces from the sprue with a little space between the part and where you cut, this helps reduce stress on the plastic and creating stress marks
  2. Cut thinner sprues connecting the pieces before cutting larger ones. I find this also helps reduce stress marks
  3. Replace your hobby knife (xacto) blades often and early, the longer you wait the more you're shoving plastic off instead of cutting it cleanly. I found this pack of 100 for $15 a pretty sweet deal on Amazon compared to what I'd find at my hobby store.

    Painting

  4. Wash your kit first, didn't know this going in. There's a lot of greases between the factory production of the kit, and oils from your hands.
  5. Primer, always primer. It helps your paint adhere and gives you a good even surface especially if you've sanded.
  6. Thin your paints 2:1 (at least this was what I did here unless you're using the Air Vallejo paints they're prethinned)
  7. Painting white is hard
  8. Experiment with your PSI from your compressor, the distance from your piece and how thin your paint is. It's hard at first but once you've found what works for you it will help create a consistent experience in painting.

    Decals & Panel Lines

  9. Don't use stickers, they're ugly :P.
  10. Water stickers are a builders dream, revolt against the stickers and take the leap if you haven't. I promise you water decals are 100% easier to re-position if you screw up than stickers are. Just keep that sucker wet.
  11. I at first was seeking to use Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softer but opted to try Micro Set Solution ($6 at time) and Micro Sol Solution
    ($7). I found this was more than adequate and did the job great, found them at my local Hobby Town.'
  12. Panel lining is best done with enamel paint (be sure you've at least primed to use enamels because the thinner for them will split your plastic in two).
  13. Thin that panel lining if you do your own till you can basically see the pigment floating around in it.
  14. If you use ronsonol lighter fluid be sure to keep it thinned consistently, because it will evaporate consistently making your panel lining inconsistent.

    Top Coat
  15. Be patient, do not over do it, and do many coat. Use your lighting to a consistent coat on it.

    Learning Resources
    I have to admit I camped the tutorials linked in the subreddit wiki, asked a hundred new builder questions in Discord, and tried a lot of things people suggested. Without a doubt if you're a gunpla builder beginner or not, join the Discord and get involved, there's a great community there.
u/wjapple · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I would skip the gundam markers entirely, you will probably find yourself not really needing them. any small color additions are better off done with a brush.

As far as the waterslides, the Sazabi comes with waterslide decals. to get this style of decal to conform to irregular surfaces and to make them appear as though they are painted on, you use solvents to soften and melt the decal material once you have it in place. Link Here

If you don't have an airbrush the recommended topcoat would be Mr. Hobby topcoat.

u/L3F_TRN · 1 pointr/NASCAR

I thought I was going to have trouble too but it fit over the hole without any issues. The micro-sol really helped curve the decals over the bends very well.

Micro-Sol:
http://www.amazon.com/Microscale-Industries-BMF128-Setting-Solution/dp/B0006O9K5Q

u/windupmonkeys · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I'm going to take the minority position here, and say that it could be greatly improved. Some comments, then some suggestions. That assumes that what I'm seeing isn't just distortions from the canopy.

  1. It appears that multiple panels and dials are stretched, or in the wrong positions, or misaligned. This may partly be due to the canopy's visual distortion, however.

  2. The panel on the left side, bottom, looks like it's been stretched and distorted.

  3. The panel on the right (the dials) looks like it's not sitting flush with the plastic.

  4. The top panel looks pretty good.

  5. Again, could be the distortion, but the panel top left also looks like it's distorted.

  6. The center MFD also looks like it might be slightly off center.

    Some suggestions (applicable even if what we're seeing is just distortion, and in case helpful):

  7. Biggest one is if the decal seems like it's a stretch to fit in one piece (I recall this decal being in one piece or two for the entire panel, aside from the decals for the powered on screens), you can cut it up. Cut up each MFD/set of gauges, then apply separately, so you don't have to needlessly stretch it and potentially cause distortions.

  8. Use decal setting solution. Some modern kits, including this one, have decals that are meant to stick on to "raised" detail, e.g. for the buttons on the displays, and soon. The decal setting solution, when applied after application, will help the decal conform to those surfaces. It's also good for curves and things like that. Example of something like that is this: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Setting-Solution-Microscale-Industries/dp/B0006O9K5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542335746&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+sol (Microsol decal setting solution, applied after the decal is in final position).

  9. Even if you don't use decal setting solution, cutting it up will help, because it makes it easier to conform each individual display as opposed to the entire thing at once.

  10. Use a soft cloth (cotton shirt, etc) or dampened cotton swab to press the decal down, once you're sure you're in the right position.

    Examples: I don't have the best examples, but I built a F/A-18E (probably the same one, if it's the Revell one) some years ago when I was starting back out, and did the same cockpit:

    https://imgur.com/a/243ojdU (photos of a Revell 1/48 F-18E cockpit. I left the screens "blank" leaving out the powered on screen decals. I used setting solution instead of cutting it into pieces. Also there is a photo of Revell's F-15E panels. It wasn't done at the time, so there's gloss clear paint where there shouldn't be, but you get the idea about how you can conform the decals).

    Hope that helps. Let's see some photos of the rest of it!
u/conipto · 1 pointr/Warhammer

RE: your shoulder pad decals..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CW4NV8/ref=dp_prsubs_2

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Got a nice-ish inkjet printer? Print your own! Trim them as close to the finished print out as possible (pro tip when experimenting, print near the bottom of the sheet so it can be used again and again until you like the size/shape) then put this stuff on top of the decal after you use it:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O9K5Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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You should have some pretty nice looking decals when all is said and done.

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