Reddit reviews Neiko 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper Stainless Steel Body with Large LCD Screen | 0 - 6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion,Silver/Black

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Get yourself a pair of these (if you don't already):

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=calipers&qid=1565281175&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Then you just measure and model. Look at the basic shape first and model the basic shape. Then add (and subtract) as necessary.

I find using OpenSCAD a little easier for duplicating a real world part because you can use variables and fine tune with variable values rather than having to redraw something. (in OpenSCAD you write code instead of click-to-draw).

3D scanning would also be an option if you have that setup (been meaning to print a 3d scanning rig...couple of good options on thingiverse)

Cheap digital caliper
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498403628&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+caliper

You actually just graduated a level in motorcycle maintenance. You can replace your own chains with a chain breaker/pin set kit and a digital micrometer.
High quality chains like D.I.D. are a good idea, and the instructions will be clear regarding the spread/flare measurement on the pin.
If you do this, lube the threads on the extractor with a little lithium.
You will also typically want to replace both sprockets with the chain.

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.

I still sort and reuse Medeco pins because they're so damned expensive. Get a digital or dial micrometer. Much faster than dropping them into a plug with depth keys. You should have a micrometer anyway. It's pretty much the number one best way to diagnose fiddly little problems with depth and spacing. It's invaluable for adjusting your key machines. I can get my Borkey duplicator down to sub .001 accuracy with one.

In the old days, a decent dial micrometer was expensive. Now, those digital ones are dirt cheap and perfectly serviceable. I bought the one I linked to above as a backup to my fancy Mitutoyo dial unit, and at $17 and change, I actually use it as my main one now because it was so cheap I'm not afraid of damaging it.

Yep. But if you build the kit yourself:

This press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553125&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press

Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-30-RGB-Die/dp/B000N8LHQK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553143&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=lee+press+RGB

Scale
https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Digital-Scale-sensitivity/dp/B0012LOQUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553166&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+scale

Calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553204&sr=8-3&keywords=calipers

Priming Tool
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90106-Lee-Precision-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553314&sr=1-7&keywords=priming+tool

... and a few other small things, you should be under $100 dies included.

> would be possible to put a set of bullhorns on my bike

Almost certainly yes. You might need a new stem.

> and still be able to use my current shifters/brakes.

Maybe. Measure the diameter of your existing bars where the shifters are mounted. The best tool to do this is a pair of measuring calipers, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414190268&sr=8-1&keywords=measuring+calipers

Handlebars come in only a few standard diameters, but really the best way to answer your question is to measure it empirically.

This one is perfectly fine. I've been using it for 4 years. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Stainless-Electronic-Digital/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521558561&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=caliper&psc=1

Get a decent digital caliper and get good at measuring, model it yourself.

Here is the fun part though - printers shrink some dimensions and expand others based on temperature, extrusion, brand of filament and a hundred other variables.

I make parts that hold spring loaded Pogo pins than are about 1.6mm to 2mm in diameter.

For every design I print a test piece with the holes in various orientations to the build plate. I make each hole the correct size then some a little larger and some a little smaller. I create a profile for each part I print and save that.

When I get the test piece done, I check each hole for fit. Now I know that for part number XYZ123 on Brand-X PLA I need to make the vertical holes .05mm larger and horizontal holes .1 smaller.

It's a pain but it helps take some of the mystery out of sizing.

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

And to add on:

Some of us bought digital calipers so we could get really technical with our widths... =/

I use these nearly everyday at a desk doing reverse engineering / 3d printing prototypes. They work fine for me

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2668834182&pd_rd_wg=cSyFv&pf_rd_r=2SJYEW38AY5AGNBK2KCF&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B000GSLKIW&pd_rd_w=0nGkJ&pf_rd_i=digital+calipers&pd_rd_r=2VEACHX9JZMZ570M28R0&ie=UTF8&qid=1479323368&sr=1

For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.

Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.

Get a cheap digital caliper and get modeling!

I suggest getting two things that helped a ton with my prusa:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQR7TU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417042163&sr=1-1&keywords=caliper

Building from scratch is really great because you then have a mental framework for diagnosing when something goes wrong. Have fun.

calipers

I know what sub i'm in but seriously dude:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW

You have to factor in the value of your own time.

Cool fix anyway.

Search "digital calipers" just about anywhere, here is one on Amazon, for example.

You don't need a micrometer, just calipers with a wheel lock and 3 points after the decimal is fine

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

Measure it with calipers.

If you don't have any, buy a pair.

Your flow rate does look high. I do 95%. I think that Simplify3D might even default to 90% for PLA. The stuff expands a lot.

If you're doing any kind of modeling of real life objects, it might be worth your while to buy a digital caliper so you can make your own measurements, especially if you need more specific ones after you get the initial ones in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s

Get a caliper:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=X8J846GSRS6NS60FW29R&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1a8eac19-c971-50dd-a67f-89fb6ce5ef10&pf_rd_i=2476630011

>I've done lathe and mill work, where you have to use calipers for their intended purpose (measuring something), and you fucking treated them like gold. They're precision devices and should be treated as such damnit.

So what? Calipers are really cheap and he probably tried other methods.

Looking at my toolbox, here was something I bought so I could measure the trunks and keep a log over the years...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have yet to start that log but I did use it to measure a drill bit size.

Some time ago, I posted a set of Caliper Extenders for the Neiko 150mm digital calipers. I just added to the Thingiverse file a storage slot to glue onto the Caliper Case. It sort of snaps in, but obviously requires some glue. I'm using E6000.

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I dont have experience with printrbot, but i used tom's guide from youtube to do my calibrating. Just watch his video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

Depends on the software for real time changes. I use octoprint. I know repetier host is really good also. If you do that, just set it as 100 in the slicer, then adjust in real time so you know what your setting should be always.

If you dont have a pair of calipers get these to measure the outside diameter of your filament, that may be why you have to adjust your extrusion. if the diameter is bigger, then it is shoving for plastic in thatn it really should.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451996465&sr=8-1&keywords=caliper

I am a toolermaker by trade, and i actually use these everyday in the shop. I stopped using my expensive ones and just use these now.

Disagree on the digital calipers. I bought one of these last year:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

It's been perfect. Checked it against precision hole gauges. Held up great with abuse. And if it breaks someday, hey, $15.

I use basically this (probably a different brand, but likely made in the same factory):

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482953396&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+micrometer

If there is a second set screw and you have a set of calipers and a thread pitch guage handy, you can remove the second set screw and measure the major diameter which is your nominal thread size, overall length of the screw and the thread pitch. It will also likely be a "cup point" set screw, not a "dog point" or anything else crazy.

Otherwise, find a local machine shop to help you determine what you need, or a gunsmith to take care of everything.

I've been using these Neiko ones (0.01mm resolution, 0.02mm accuracy) for about 8 years now with no issues

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493316915&sr=8-1&keywords=6%22+digital+caliper

SAFETY GLASSES. Depending on how youre removing support material, those tiny peices of plastic can go flying, and I've ended up being saved by my blinking reflex more than once. Just get a cheap pair and use them. Support material will go flying towards your eyes, its not a safety cliche.

Everyone says to use a heat gun to clean up stringing(which can still occur even with near-perfect retraction settings, its just the nature of plastic.), but i prefer a butane pocket torch. Just quickly flicking the switch will vaporize the strings, without waiting for a loud heat gun to heat up, potentially warp your parts if theyre thin, and set it down to cool. Just dont hold a flame to your parts, they will ignite. A very brief(fraction of a second) flame works perfectly. If youre just using your printer for functional parts right now, dont worry about this.

A pair of curved tweezers for picking plastic off of the nozzle before/during(if youre OCD)/after a print (depending on how your cooler is setup). Side note- if your nozzle is really dirty, heat it up to ~200c and brush it with a wet qtip. Works great without scraping the nozzle with a wire brush.

X-acto blades #17 and #11. #17 is great for removing support material. Just please make sure youre not pushing the blade in the direction of your hand/leg/chest/eye/other body part.

As far as finishing prints- I've only used sandpaper, but a resin like xtc-3d is also popular.

Calipers. Get a nice pair of calipers.

As far as modding your printer.... https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/ has all the nuts & bolts you might need for great prices.

As far as software goes, I used to use simplify3d but after switching to slic3r prusa edition i think its amazing. Join https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/ and get chris warcocki's pretty PLA profiles for slic3r. Really great facebook group, they'll keep you updated on all the latest mk3 improvements/news

Oh, and get some isopropyl alcohol, at least 90%. Wipe down the bed with it after every single print. Occasionally wipe with acetone, but not too often.

As far as filament goes, everyone has different recommendations. Avoid makergeeks. Great filament, horrible company. Atomic is great, but $30/kg which is a bit much for daily PLA, especially if its just going to be used for light brackets or whatever. I've been trying lots of manufacturers and i just ordered some makeshaper, i'll update in a few days if its lives up to the expectations.


Youre going to love your mk3.

Electric could be .011 too as I told my guy I play heavy last time I got my les paul set up. No idea what's on the Jaguar but I think they might be .008s? I like a light touch on fenders.

Either way I'd rather spend $17 on the tool and get the job done than buy a $20-$30 in electric strings and $10-15 in acoustic strings, and then throw most of them away.

Using a digital caliper on the clamp area is the best way to measure it if you can't find the spec somewhere online. I recall my 2009 Pista having a 26.0 handlebar clamp diameter.

Cinelli Peppers are cool, but you can't go wrong with Nitto either.

ABS and Nylon are the toughest, but can be difficult to print.
ABS will withstand higher temps.

Get a cheap digital caliper so you can take precise measurements. I model stuff in Fusion 360 and make weird parts all the time.

One machine screw with a spring washer and three sheet metal screws. Buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

You can take a pretty close guess at exactly what the screw specifications are without them, but they're cheap, very useful and will tell you exactly what the screws are.

Digital calipers! There are other methods, and certainly better calipers than this, but these are way more than enough to get yourself started for cheap. I have two nice sets of calipers, but at one point I just bought four of these and keep one in my office at home, one at work, one in the garage, and one more just stashed in a drawer because I use them all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Calipers&qid=1564629857&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For this print all I did was measure the diameter of the cable and the diameter of the knockout. That was enough to give me all the info I needed.

Eyy~ You'll likely want one of these~ A digital caliper / micrometer.

Get a set of decent calipers. You'll need them for all sorts of stuff and they aren't going to wear out. Plus they're so cheap it's almost a non-issue.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397511458&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+micrometer

I'd buy something like this. It's just an example, probably better ones available, it's just the first one that came up.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1405012283&sr=1-1&keywords=vernier+digital

Amazon link

This isn’t bad for the price we use $150 calipers and I’ve tried some of these in a pinch and they’re pretty comparable.

This is a must.
http://amzn.com/B000GSLKIW

I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.

They're insanely useful in DIY projects, and many cost under $20. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.

With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.

It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.

Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/

32 and 28 are pretty interchangeable as far as rims go. 25 will most likely still be okay, but 23 probably not. You can check this easily with a caliper, if they have more than 28mm width you might want to reconsider your choice :) By the way, I switched from 28 to 25 on mine and it made a hell of a difference.

To add to the others, get a nice set of calipers if you don't already have some. I prefer digital, and they are relatively inexpensive. I have this pair, and they work great for taking precise measurements. Spending a bunch of time modeling and then printing only for the parts not to fit is such a buzzkill.

Neiko 01407A Stainless Steel Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen | 0-6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRh8Ab09Q96YR

And not more precise or accurate, see https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ with the same accuracy.

Overextrusion would only change if you modify your E steps per mm. You should not do this, though, without proper measurement. To calibrate E steps per mm, you mark off 100mm of the filament and tell the printer to extrude 100mm of the filament. Then, see what difference it actually extruded, and adjust your steps fractionally to compensate.

As for your XY steps per mm, you cannot do it without calipers. Pick up a nice pair, like these

If it's a relatively simple shape, you can measure it up with some calipers and be on your way. For most 3d printing applications you don't need to go drop a bunch of money on some Mitutoyo or other "high end" calipers; These would do just fine.

Another trick for something with a lot more shapes to it, is to take a picture of it as squarly straight down as you can with a ruler next to it, so you can import the image as a 'canvas' into your modeling software, scale it until an inch on the ruler equals an inch in the software, and then you can trace the shapes up pretty well that way without having to do a ton of reiteration. Just keep material shrinkage etc in mind when you go to print if you're using a material susceptible to that.

Agree with check the clutch cable first (simple things first always). If at the point where you're sure that it's not the cable, it's not hard to pull a clutch, drain the oil, pull the cover off, take the clutch springs off and then plates (pay attention to orientation). At this point do two things. Take a pair of mics and measure the thickness in three places on each clutch disc. Then make sure your steels are flat by putting them on a flat surface and try to slide a feeler gauge between the plate and surface.

There are less expensive ones. I use mine all the time though, not just for vaping hardware.

Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:

Cam Lock

Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material

Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!

After reading a lot of reviews, I went with this pair. They aren't built like engineering equipment--there's a bit of wiggle in the depth rod, but many reviewers said that they were very accurate. In my limited experience, I'm also finding this to be the case.

I preferred the idea of a metal head to a plastic one, but this $15 one seems to get decent reviews.

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

Cheap electronic calipers are cheap. And they're incredibly handy.

I use an [Electronic Digital Caliper like this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491858601&sr=8-3&keywords=micrometer) and recommend you get one in your kit. Used several times in building the MK2S as well as calibrations later on.

Buy yourself a set of calipers (those are cheap, use better ones for real precision work) and take em with you when you go shopping. You'll be able to tell how thick things are from memory pretty quick that way.

And you're right; most dimensioned lumber is in 3/4" thicknesses. If you need to double that then buy 2 boards and glue em together. Easily done, just takes all teh clamps.

For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.

How about some measuring calipers.

Here’s an example of what you’ll need to measure your rotor thickness if you want. digital caliper

This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.

Press

Bullet puller

Scale

Dies

Caliper

Book

Tumbler

Media

Media Seperator


Case Prep Tool

Trimmer And also the needed shell holder

Sorry for the delayed response!

I appreciate the compliment, sometimes I still get the feeling like I'm over my head with this stuff, but I still want to help however I can. Qui docet discit, as they say...

OK, if your results are coming back that far off, I would take a big step back and start with the basics. From what you've told me, my first guess is that the steps/mm for your towers is off. In your case, I would throw the assumption that your towers are all moving the same right out the window for now, and check each tower independently:

• Remove the effector and the delta arms completely.
  
  
• Use G28 to home the empty carriages to Z_max.
  
  
• Pick a tower and stick a piece of tape on the column in a way that you can use as a reference for the starting position of the carriage on that tower. Personally, I put the bottom of the tape in line with the centerline of the lowest wheel. Technically speaking, you can do this for all three towers at the same time, but imho that increases the chances for human error.
  
  
• Use G91 to switch to relative positioning, and then G1 Z-100 to (attempt to) move the towers down 100mm.
  
  
• Put another piece of tape on the tower using the same reference point as you did before, and measure the distance between the two. If you don't have digital calipers, stand up, find your way to a hardware store, and buy them. Now. There is no tool more important in your 3D printing arsenal than a set of quality digital calipers. but I digress... If the distance between your reference points is not exactly 100.00mm, adjust your steps/mm... The simplest formula is
  
  (Current steps/mm) x (Expected mm traveled) / (Actual mm traveled)
  
  If that doesn't work, or if your steps/mm is still off, it's probably still a firmware setting, so try the following one at a time:
  
  
• If you're using a microstepping, cut it in half, or quarters if you'd like (don't forget to do the same thing to your tower's steps/mm!!!). Oh, and if you're using interpolation, don't.
  
  
• Trim down your max acceleration setting, again by 50% or 25%, and lower your speed settings too.
  
  
• Quadruple-check that your bed is 100% flat, and make sure the points on the bed being probed are completely clean. I use FSRs, which uses nozzle-contact with the bed as the trigger. This method only works if the hotend is at operating temperature, otherwise there's likely a hard glob of plastic stuck to the tip of the nozzle. However, running it at temp while probing means that a tiny bit of plastic is left behind after every probe. For longer than I'd like to admit, these little blobs started stacking up and interfering with the probe results, even though they were barely visible!
  
  Don't give up! Running a 3D printer is an exercise in patience, and I find it extremely gratifying when it works! Trust me, you'll start keeping backups of your config settings, it's a hard lesson that most operators don't need to experience twice.
  
  What you're in the middle of is exactly the kind of situation where "you have to know how to walk before you can run" applies, except in an extreme case like this, you have to learn to crawl first.
  
  I'll help in whatever way I can! If you'd like, put your config and config-override files on pastebin, and I'll take a look to see if anything stands out!

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

• A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.
  
  This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.

Calipers: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=lp_256411011_1_1/178-3815067-2714000?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1394071937&sr=1-1

I use them around the house all the time (and only once to measure my peen)

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Stainless-Digital-Caliper-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1311244096&sr=1-2

These will cover most small objects. They have different lengths for different things, so pick whatever suits you. Have fun!

I'd recommend you just pick up a set of cheapo digital calipers off Amazon like these. Worth noting, though, that if you plan to use it only to measure lug width you could save yourself some money and pick up one of these, since the precision of a digital set isn't necessary.

As the others said, stick to Maya or 3ds max. Learning C4D once you know other packages is pretty easy, but for employment you really want one of the Autodesk packages.

Also, I've found the best way to learn to do 3D modeling is to do it as often as possible. No substitute for hours spent trying and failing. Almost everything you model has unique needs and requirements, so watching tutorials can only help so much. You need to just get in there and start creating, hit a wall on how some part of it should be made, then go research the best technique. A good example is how best to drill holes in surfaces, many people trip up on this.

I would recommend you start by choosing simple real-world objects and model them, whether they are things in your room or products, etc. Go on Amazon and buy a pair of calipers (such as these) and use them to take measurements of real world objects as you model them. This will help you get everything proportionally correct, AND make the job easier. Guessing proportions is a good way to make everything look off.

Get a few of the cheap digital calipers. They're almost disposable, accurate enough for 95% of measurements, and if you need that extra accuracy on a final cut you should be using a good micrometer anyway.

Get a pair of calipers, this will confirm all you measurements. Good luck!!
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000GSLKIW

Bowl gouge, not gauge :)

Read this PDF and watch the video that's linked for more information as to why spindle gouges are not to be used for bowls or other cross-grain turning.

The accessory tool set you linked is mostly designed for metalworking by the look of it. You would make modest use of the two spring calipers and the scribe compass in the bottom left of the photo, but none of the other stuff would be useful to a woodturner doing bowls. To be honest, you can buy the same three tools for under $20, so I'd buy the calipers and then maybe a [cheap digital caliper}(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) for when accuracy matters.

People really overestimate how hard measuring things are.

Not what I would use due to how cheap it is, but look here dummy

I have uploaded my work papers here that should help, you can also check my post history for other work in progress shots.

Basic rundown:

• Get a set of digital calipers like this they are under $20, and are vital in making measurements off of the figure. Read the instructions on how to use them, they are a great tool.
  
• Figure how high you want the end result to be. I wanted Alphonse to be to scale. I found animator notes that had him listed as 7' - 4" or 88" tall.
  
• I made all of my measurements in millimeters (mm) because I found it easier, you can do inches but pick one now and stick to it for the duration of the project.
  
• Take the height you want and divide it by the height of the statue. You do not need to convert it the same units. I can explain why if needed.
  
• My Alphonse figure was 228.1 mm tall, so that gave me 88/228.1 = .3858.
  
• So any measurement I made on the figure I multiplied by .3858 and that gave me the dimension needed in inches for the costume.
  
  Always more than willing to answer any questions, so let me know if something does not make sense.

There totally are.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=lp_256411011_1_1/181-2774076-5213117?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1408725491&sr=1-1