Reddit reviews NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS108) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection

Something like this is all you would need.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486790475&sr=1-7&keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch

I like Netgear's ProSafe stuff (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/). I've been using them for over five years, not a single problem.

The Netgears are rock solid.

I've got a 16 port plugged into my gateway eero, no issues whatsoever with anything plugged into it.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A?th=1&psc=1

Absolutely. I'm partial to metal Netgears like this one although I admit I only have experience with the 5 port versions.

This is what I have:

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS108) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Li... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_.liEDbHY1TMET

I just use a very simple and cheap 8 port unmanaged gigabit netgear switch in my living room for this exact situation. I can’t see bandwidth being a problem considering you probably don’t use more than game console at once.

Edit: link

I've had the Netgear switches and love them. You could just get the 5 port one that would give you a total of 8 free ports between it and your current router or spend a little bit more for the 8 port version giving you plenty of room for future expansion. I own both and my 5 port GS105 has been running pretty much non-stop for 10 years.

Get either a 5 port or 8 port Netgear Gigabit switch depending on how many devices you need. If you have 5 devices, get the 8 port because one of the ports will be used by the connection to the wall.

Don't get a super cheap one. They don't last.

5 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-GS105NA-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

8 port: https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Lifetime-Replacement-Unmanaged/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502858441&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

Not the cheapest, but they'll last and won't give you any problems. Make sure you get network cables to go along with them. Buy them on Amazon, not the local super store. They'll be 1/10th the price on Amazon as they will be at Best Buy or whatever.

Specifically for your application, you may or may not see any difference. You will however see a huge difference in scenarios when you are moving large chunks of data, such as: backup library over network. 10/100 is very, very, annoyingly slow. It does make sense to invest in gigabit switch. You can get these for pretty cheap these days:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+switch
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS105NA-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449549866&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+switch

imho, gigabit is not only worth it, it's minimum level

So shouldn't the ethernet cable coming from outside be plugged into the WAN port on your router? Then the wall jack cables would all be plugged in to the switch you buy - or for now the LAN ports on the router.

Here's an 8 port gigabit switch for < $30 after rebate.

Guess it just depends on how many rooms you have wired. One port would be the uplink to the router, leaves 7 ports for 7 rooms.

Here's a 16 port gigabit switch for $65 after rebate

I ran into the same issue, I now have 85+ devices on my network with zero problems. Your best bet is to scrap/sell your current network gear and build yourself a solid setup. I recommend the following (get as many switches and APs as needed, I am using 3 APs currently):

Cable Modem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA5U1FW

Router: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Appliance-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK

APs: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-802-11ac-Dual-Radio-UAP-AC-PRO-US/dp/B015PRO512

Unmanaged Switches: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

Software: Unifi Controller - this is free - https://www.ubnt.com/enterprise/software/

Do you know if it has a built in router if so disable that. Oh and you should get a switch to connect to your router then connect to your 2 computers. Connecting directly to modem can cause lots of problems particularly with people trying to access your network.


Here's a link to a good small switch

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=dp_ob_image_ce

Intuit says QuickBooks is not to be run over a wireless network. Anyone that accesses the QBW needs to be physically connected or they need to RDP to the workstation/server hosting the QBW.

If you're interested in controlling your network edge (you should be) then find a router like a SonicWALL TZ500 or better that offers a comprehensive gateway protection (AV/IPS/content filtering/etc.) If that isn't in the cards maybe a Ubiquity router is a solid plan B.

You're not doing anything that would make me push you to some kind of special Ethernet. Honestly, CAT5E is fine. CAT6 is better, but better in ways you're not going to experience at this scale. That said the cost delta is little so do whatever and you'll be fine there.

You'll need a gigabit switch. It can be simple for now.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478050211&sr=1-1&keywords=gigabit+switch&refinements=p_n_intended_use_browse-bin%3A9647498011

Most any gigabit switch will work. An 8-port would give you seven open ports, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536242447&sr=8-3&keywords=netgear+8+port+gigabit+switch&dpID=4151BeCGkLL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Also - A generic unmanaged switch won’t screw anything up as the router up line manages all the routing and IP assignment.

Put this switch in your detached garage.
NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Sturdy Metal, Desktop, Plug-and-Play, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection (GS108) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FKVvCb832KE41

Run a cat line to the ceiling (from the switch) AP - https://www.ui.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/

Or down the wall to one of these
https://inwall-hd.ui.com

And then with the other 6 ports on the switch run direct lines to everything that can be hardwired. Get a bigger switch if you have more than 6 devices.

Nothing handy (I'm at work). I have an open shelf above a closet in my living room where I installed a 4-gang box with ac, speaker connectors, keystone and a pass-through for the ethernet cables. I installed this tiny patch panel vertically to the left of the gang-box. I color coded keystones from each room to the patch panel, and used the keystones in the gang box for cable, HDMI, IR, subwoofer connection and have my cable box, receiver, cable modem, router, and switch all up there.

You want to get a processor that supports aes-ni. That will allow SSL acceleration (opnvpn) and is also being required as of pfSense 2.5 and up.

I would choose this machine and purchase an unmanaged switch for your devices.

Hope that helps!

2nd edit; I was am an idiot... OK, Here you go. Under budget and should do what you need....

You can use this Zotac Barebones PC w/ the Celeron N3150 processor that supports AES-NI. Add some RAM and a SSD. Finally a Managed 8 Port Switch.

1st edit; Did not realize that I linked a celeron ( thanks u/suziesamantha ) as I thought it was a j1900 processor and then realized that the bay trail's also don't have aes-ni support. Sorry for the wrong information. The router I built is based on the Atom Rangley chip. You can use this link to help find aes-ni support.

My sonus connect in my living room is connected to my netgear gs108 and it has been working for years without a problem. It comes on 5,8 & 16 port version and the rackmount ones go to 24 ports.

I have two of these in my system and the server with all my music is in my office connected to one switch and the sonus in in the living room connected to the other.

There may be better ones but I have had no problems with these at all.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

I know it has already been answered, but I'll double down and say, YES! Just to expand on the point:

I have a few devices that are wired-only, and the ports on the eeros allowed me to get rid of my Powerline Ethernet adapters. This freed up a power plug at my "main" area that has my modem, gateway eero, tv, and numerous other devices.

I have an OTA box (SimpleTV) that is ethernet-only, and it's in a completely different room, attached (now) to a leaf eero. Getting that thing off of powerline ethernet vastly increased the speed/quality when streaming from the SimpleTV.

Also, you're not limited to just two ports on the eero. You can get an ethernet switch/hub and expand it that way. Something like this, for example.

I have an 8-port on my gateway eero that has: TV, PS4, Xbox One, NAS, FireTV...and it works just fine.

Can't do much better than Netgear for cheap networking stuff.

Gigabit version.

If you can, I'd recommend going with the Gigabit version, it'll be usable for much longer than the 10/100 switch.

For starters I would get a basic tester just to test the cable drops and make sure all is well, if it's really been about 15 years there is a decent chance of some breaks / cabling issues. Sounds like a simple Unmanaged 8-port Gigabit Switch can be installed in the attic with all of the Ethernet cables plugged into it.

I mean, don't unmanaged ports literally run off like 12V DC? can you just find a different plug for it that'll convert 240VAC to 12VDC? Nothing with 8 ports is going to have a C13/14


https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A


Then get a different adapter for it? Eh?


https://www.sfcable.com/1ft-18-awg-nema-5-15r-to-c14-monitor-power-adapter-cord.html?gdffi=afde19f4670e4f608861514cfe93a30d&gdfms=3911580D2AF64F7E9F9D8DA1401FB3B3&gclid=CjwKCAiAt8TUBRAKEiwAOI9pAEwbffy65JZVipI6zhab6xB8xX33EeadnmLVKAB0_EDMEJzO87GgLRoCQ1IQAvD_BwE


(I guess this cord says 125VAC, but come on, it won't struggle with 6W being pulled through it)



https://www.amazon.com/Five-Star-Cable-100-240V-Switching/dp/B00PZ8OT9K


So you got yourself a C14 plug (that's what the PDU you link has) to a 5-15R plug (meh) and then an adapter that is good for 240V (hell, the one that comes with it might even say 240VAC on the side of it, I'll check mine when I get home later)


This was 5 minutes of Google, if you go this route do your own homework and buy only what you feel comfortable using

You didn't say how many network drops you've got, so we can't get too specific, but I can tell you I have an older revision of this switch (the 8 port version) and it's worked flawlessly for somewhere around 7 years now. I've always used D-Link or Netgear switches. TP-Link is another good brand that I've installed for other folks.

Here is the mobile version of your link

What they're offering is the "Legrand 1054" router/switch if I do their package. Anything special about this one?

http://www.legrand.us/onq/networking/wired-networks/routers-switches/da1054.aspx
http://www.homecontrols.com/homecontrols/products/pdfs/OQ-OnQLegrand/OQDA1054_Manual.pdf

Couldn't I just use this Netgear Router/Switch instead?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=twister_B01AKLC5NI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The erl setup is a little more involved, need to hit the IP directly in a web browser. For a switch i just use a dumb switch to keep everything simple and fast.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479318855&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+gigabit

Ok. I'm not a network engineer - just a humble help desk guy - but there are a couple things going on here that worry me.

1.) You have two wireless access points (the two routers) interfering with each other. Any communication on the same channel is going to cause a problem. They need to either be set so that the wireless networks they create are on separate channels that don't cross over (typically 1, 6, and 11), OR turn the Wifi off on the XyZel.

2.) The Nighthawk is an incredibly fast router. The XyZel is no slouch either. But bad things happen when you connect a router to a router without doing some configuration. I've never done such a thing, nor would I ever have a reason to, so I don't know how to configure a dual-router environment. It's my thought that this may contribute to your slow speed.

3.) From the way you described, it sounds like you guys just needed more ethernet ports? You don't want a router for that. You want a switch instead. No config needed - just plug it into any avail. ethernet port on your router and you've got 8 extra ports.

My recommendation: Disconnect either the XyZel OR the Nighthawk from your network. The Nighthawk is faster, and should work fine with minimal configuration if you connect it to the modem. Then get a switch and plug it in if you need more ethernet ports than you have.

The only environments I've seen which have had multiple routers in the same network were universally large, enterprise networks with multiple subnets and redundant circuits.

This is the one I use, been great for years:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A

> Is it worth it to get an AP and connect it to the switch? instead of using the integrated with the router (the one I have)
>

It depends how bad your current wireless TP-Link is. Is the wireless signal flaky (does it drop randomly or disconnect your laptop randomly)? Any issues? Signal problems? Random shutoffs?

If so, then replace it, if not then you could try using it as an AP.

In my experience TP-Link gear is a good value if you don't need reliability. I had bad luck with my TP-Link DSL modem frequently overheating and/or being unresponsive on the web gui.

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4DS5KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
>
Is it worth it to get an AP and connect it to the switch? instead of using the integrated with the router (the one I have)
>

Definitely eBay. You can get a UAP-AC-Lite for $60ish on eBay, and that leaves $40 for a switch which is more than enough.

Is noise a problem? As the noisier switches tend to be dirt cheap. Foundry FLS648 is $49 used or less, sometimes as low as $20. It's noisy though.

If you need a quiet switch it's more expensive, but you could always get a Netgear switch if your okay with it sort of flaking out every day or two randomly, those are around $20 new on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

A friend of mine once said if you avoid getting the Netgear switches with a web gui, and instead get the dumb/unmanaged L2 only version of the ProSafe line, that it's not bad.

Personally though this is what I use and recommend: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brocade-Foundry-FLS648-Switch-4-SFP-48-1-Gig-T-Ports-no-rack-mounts-ASIS-/162057859029?hash=item25bb66afd5:g:B8EAAOSwKfVXI7TL

The seller would probably accept $49, but if not here is another cheap L2-only switch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-1810-8-J9800A-Ethernet-Switch-/201721628473?hash=item2ef78bc739:g:748AAOSwPCVYB72f

It's the HP 1810, it's ok. Not as reliable as the FLS648, some people have had them fail on /r/homenetworking and /r/homelab, but a lot of people have had great luck with them, and they are dirt cheap ($25-$35). You could always buy one every year in case one fails :D.

Another option is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-JE005A-V1910-16G-16-Port-10-100-100-Port-w-4-Port-SFP-Managed-Switch-/282251385279?hash=item41b77e59bf:g:O~AAAOSwOdpX0dho

HP's 1910 is much more reliable than their older 1810 model, and has some L3 capabilities.

Here's an old pic of the FLS648 in action.

Just get a 3 way (or more) ethernet switch. (the 5 port option)

Would you like the NETGEAR GS108 ? I have bought two from Amazon that worked fine.

I like pmarinel's suggestion and I'm just going to piggy back on his response.

Since Xfinity is your provider, you can use an Arris Surfboard modem to give internet to your router to distribute to your house and through that you can save on not having to pay monthly rental fee's to Xfinity to use their modem.

I would find the coax cable that is most central to your apt (and also has one of the network ports in the wall near it), plug my surfboard modem into that coax, plug my surfboard modem into the WAN/Internet of my router, and then have one of the LAN ports of my router plugged into the wall network port leading to the box you have in the photo, and then plug ports 1, 2, 3, 4 of that black patch box into an unmanaged switch such as this that you can leave in there. Doing all of that would mean your WiFi network would be distributing throughout your apartment from a central location (even coverage), and all network ports in your house would be wired to that same network, and best of all you don't have to waste money paying for Xfinity's monthly equipment rental fees.

If you want suggestions for WiFi routers, let me know and send you a few recommendations. If you apartment is large and you're worried about WiFi from a single device not covering your home well enough, I heard Google Mesh networks are pretty good for that.

For $30, the TPlink TL-SG108E is a pretty good value. It's built fairly well, and has a 5 year warranty.

For $15 more ($45) you can get the Netgear GS108 I've used this switch, and the smaller 5 port version in a ton of places, and have never had 1 fail on me. These things are tanks, and should be perfect. But if you're on a budget, go for the TP link.

It costs a little more than some of the other options listed but I'm a fan of the GS108 from Netgear. It's a really great little switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QhlZCbSCQ77MB

I'm an MSP which deploys hundreds of these.

I live in Florida, the lightning strike capital and these are the most rugged I've been able to find reliably without the extreme markup.

As an update I own these two switches - right now my setup under cable is modem - router/wifi/switch - NAS/5-Port Switch/8-Port Switch/Free (I think, I cannot recall, I do not think I have a 4th device hooked into it).

So their modem - pfsense - I am assuming this EdgerRouterPOE/8PortSwitch/5Port Switch/Ubiqiti AP

Am I missing something?

It's a Netgear Gigabit 8 Port, similar to https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Lifetime-Protection/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523027575&sr=8-3&keywords=netgear+gigabit+switch

Same slowdown from two of the same model switch. I don't have third different switch on hand to test.

Don't strip the individual wires, but do remove the outer blue sheath. There's more room in the jack before it's crimped, and you can fit the wires all the way in with their individual coating still on.

Patch panels are not necessary. All you need is something along these lines: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

Make sure you get one with enough ports for all the plugs!

Alright, so I know this is a bit old but I thought "hey this is the only think I know a bit about, might as well input my two cents"


I'm sure I will get a few people disagreeing with me, but it's the internet.. lets live dangerously.


So, I use to be an electrician and I can tell you right now.. it's a 50/50 chance you will get someone who knows or cares what they are dong with low voltage / network cable. The biggest problem is they run it too close to romex and you get interference and general degradation of signal also.. when they do terminate plates and ends they untwist about 5 inches of cable which completely defeats the purpose of UTP.


My suggestion, call a company likes http://www.ramsey-communications.com/ OR if you feel comfortable drilling holes and running your own cable read on below.


So Ethernet is a type of network, not an actual cable...no worries, everyone calls it Ethernet.. but what you are looking for is CAT5e Un-shielded Twisted Pair or UTP CMP (yes there is a shielded, more on that later)


There are so many types of UTP, why do I recommend this particular one?

• It's cheap https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10233&cs_id=1023301&p_id=9480&seq=1&format=2
  
• It will fulfill pretty much all your needs, unless you are running a 10 GB device (which i doubt)
  
• It is CMP or Plenum rated, this means really fire resistant and will produce low toxic fumes / smoke when burning (the plastic) .. I'm a paranoid person and I like to use plenum, now most people will say CMR or Riser rated is plenty.. which yes it's used frequently and helps prevent the spread of fire from room to room (if installed properly) and it is cheaper, but that is your choice.
  
• Solid core is what you want for in the walls, it's stiffer, cheaper and works beautifully.. STRANDED is what you want to make patch cables out of.
  
  Now you will need tools..
  http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10509&cs_id=1050905&p_id=7056&seq=1&format=2
  now that is taken care of..
  
  So, you need a good switch for all this as well..
  http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464749515&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+gigabit+prosafe+8+port+switch
  
  Up to you, i'm sure we could find a bit cheaper.
  
  Any-who.. Pick your home-run spot, where all the cables will originate from (usually a good spot is where the modem and router can also be accessed) Then run all cables from that spot to the rooms you want network access to. Cut a low voltage box into the wall http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464749515&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+gigabit+prosafe+8+port+switch (same height as outlets to make it look nice!), and then fish cable through.. once through put on a face plate http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6725 with a terminal on the endhttp://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5376 and punch down the cable with those hand dandy tools.
  
  Now back at your home-run spot crimp down those rj45 ends and test them with something like this http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8138 and you should be good to go.
  
  Videos with some how to's
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gxNZoPcnP4
  https://youtu.be/X-azkafrgrw?t=1310
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH9zlCZe1qA
  
  
  So, shielded so STP is way more expensive and reserved for installations where EMF and RFI (noise) are key factors..
  
  Hope this helps or points you in the right direction
  
  

Any switch will be fine, I personally recommend the Netgear Prosafe line for a simple unmanaged switch. Cables, either Cat5e or Cat6.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-Gigabit-Desktop-GS108-400NAS/dp/B00MPVR50A

OK, here's what I suggest...

Find a central location with 2 Ethernet ports (preferably in one outlet or at least close to each other) where you think the RG would provide better Wi-Fi throughout the house. Then make new connections based on this schematic.

This will require purchase of a female-female RJ45 coupler like this one and a gigabit switch like this one. These can be purchased for $20 to $50 depending on the switch. There are cheaper switches than the Netgear I linked to.

I also suggest, before disconnecting or moving anything, that you find the two Ethernet cables in the cabinet from the location where you're thinking of putting the RG. Then connect these one at a time to the switch (yellow ports) on the back of the RG. Plug a computer into the corresponding port in the outlet and test that you have Internet connectivity from that port. Also test the speed by browsing to speedtest.net.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6/

Can't go wrong for $18. I have one of these downstairs, and one of the Netgear Prosafe GS108 upstairs. Both work great.

Yes. I use this and have had no problems.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPVR50A/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_JGUxDbHAGEB8W