Reddit reviews NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R7000) - AC1900 Wireless Speed (up to 1900 Mbps) | Up to 1800 sq ft Coverage & 30 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 2 USB ports | Armor Security

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

• If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.
  
  
• If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.
  
  
• If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!
  
  
• If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  
• I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.
  
  
• When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.
  
  
• If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.
  
  
• If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.
  
  
• If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.
  
  
• I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.
  
  
• Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.
  
  
• Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.
  
  
• Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.
  
  
• Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.
  
  
• Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.
  
  
• Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.
  
  
• If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.
  
  
• Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.
  
  I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.
  
  edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

From the information you have provided, your router does not have QoS settings. So here are a few options:

0.) Contact ATT and see if they have a higher-end modem/router that supports QoS.

IF ATT doesn't have one, then you can do the following.

1.) Purchase a router that supports QoS - TP-LINK TL-WR841N Wireless N300 Home Router or NetGear NightHawk
1a.) If you have an older wireless router lying around, you can install DDRT and/or Tomato on it. However, you may also be limited to lower speeds.
2.) Set your 2Wire to Bridge Mode.
3.) You can copy your settings (manually) from the 2Wire over to the new router, so you do not have to go through the hassle of handing out WPA2 keys and SSIDs to all the machines again. As long as the SSID and the WPA2 key are the same, the machines should automatically join.
4.) Follow the manual for which ever router you got to enabled QoS.
4a.) If you want to setup static IPAs for your all your devices you can.
5.) Buy some decent sound-canceling headphones so you do not have to hear your sister complain and whine about slow internet speeds. ;)

It is much cheaper to flash the firmware by yourself on a router that supports Tomato or DDR- WRT and then use the built in VPN client.

For that money the flash routers are a scam: They charge you e.g. USD 349.99 for the netgear nighthawk r700:
https://www.flashrouters.com/blog/2016/02/03/the-best-tomato-routers-of-2016/

On Amazon you can buy it for 159.00 USD: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

How to install and set up Tomato:

https://www.privateinternetaccess.com/pages/client-support/tomato-vpn

https://www.howtogeek.com/59152/boost-networking-performance-by-installing-tomato-on-your-router/

Seconded. I use Arlo and love it. Decent price point, good mobile app, usable browser app. Small (easy to hide), completely wireless, and you can get different skins to camouflage the outdoor ones. Up to 5 cameras can be used on a free plan. If you'd like, OP, I recently wrote up a decent wall of text about Arlo and can send it to you.

EDIT: I'll just post the wall here.

_____

Here's some more information about Arlo to help you out.

5 wire-free cameras + base station ($630) - https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-Surveillance-Outdoor-VMS3530-100NAS/dp/B01CT6VOAW/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01CT6VOAW&pd_rd_r=ST6WJ3DCWE0Y7EGRWS34&pd_rd_w=uy9oi&pd_rd_wg=7FNzz&psc=1&refRID=ST6WJ3DCWE0Y7EGRWS34

other camera bundles are on that listing as well. 4 camera bundle for $499, 3 camera bundle for $419, 2 camera bundle for $299, 1 camera kit for $173.99, plus a couple other options. i would say to just get the 5 camera bundle and don't bother with the arlo q if you're only worried about the outside of the house. the add-on cameras are on sale right now for $145 instead of $160, so if you want more than 5 then now is the time to buy!

3 silicone skins ($24.99) - https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Silicone-Wire-Free/dp/B016D0O10U/ref=pd_sim_421_2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016D0O10U&pd_rd_r=EXQYGG3TDFGC05X6AHD6&pd_rd_w=C2Jxo&pd_rd_wg=MoyX4&psc=1&refRID=EXQYGG3TDFGC05X6AHD6

i like the black skins for the cameras i put outside. if they are on a white background though (maybe the house is painted white where you mount it) then the skins would make it stand out more. since mine are in trees i like the black.


indoor/outdoor mount (black) ($19.99) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2PHVS8

also has the white version, the standard wall mounts the cameras come with (maybe you want multiple mounts for a single camera so you can move it around), and the table/ceiling mount.



as for the cameras themselves, they are weatherproof and can operate between 14 and 122 degrees F (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/Are-Arlo-cameras-weatherproof/ta-p/1705). the batteries are the limiting factor as they stop functioning properly outside of those ranges. it should be noted that below freezing temperatures will reduce battery life significantly, but the cameras will still operate down to 14F (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/How-can-I-extend-my-Arlo-Wire-Free-camera-s-battery-life/ta-p/291).

the cameras should be at least 10 feet away from the base station and can be up to 300 feet away. walls and barriers limit distance a bit, but the LEDs on the cameras and base station can let you know if there is a connection problem (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/How-far-can-I-place-my-Arlo-Wire-Free-cameras-from-the-base/ta-p/35).

you can have a max of 15 cameras attached to one base station, but only 5 can all be streaming at the same time (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Buying-Options-Tips/How-many-cameras-can-one-base-station-handle/td-p/1063320). you can also add base stations to extend your range.

finally, subscriptions (https://community.netgear.com/t5/Arlo-Knowledge-Base/What-are-the-available-Arlo-subscription-plans-and-how-much/ta-p/88). 5 cameras + 7 days cloud storage/1 GB of video for free; 10 cameras + 30 days of recordings/10 GB of video for $10/month or $99/year; 15 cameras + 60 days of recordings/100 GB of video for $15/month or $149/year. if you get an arlo q, you can purchase a 24/7 continuous video recording (CVR) feature for $10/month or $99/year for 14 days or double that for 30 days, all per camera. unfortunately you can only watch these videos from the cloud: they can't be downloaded.

if you want to save your videos, you have to download them yourself and store them. videos are cycled out every 7/30/60 days depending on your plan. there is no undelete, so if you delete something, it's gone, and if they delete something, it's gone.

arlo provides useful help videos for setting up the system and debugging any possible problems (https://www.arlo.com/en-us/support/). there are recommended heights/angles for the cameras and that's all addressed in the videos.

if you happen to own a netgear nighthawk router, you might be able to use that as a base station instead of buying a bundle with a base station. you can also still get the base station and use that to extend the range for cameras you might want to place far from the house. if you don't already have that router and want a good upgrade, i highly recommend it (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474291904&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+nighthawk). i don't have mine set up currently, but it's a good machine. if your existing router works fine, then no need to spend the money!

it should be noted that if you want more than 5 cameras but dont want to pay the subscription fees, you can simply make a second account with a second base station and link up to 5 cameras to that. then you have two free accounts, but you do also have to sign in and out with each to check cameras, which can become cumbersome.

A heads-up - this is selling at the same price on Amazon.ca at the moment with free shipping.

$159 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Impossible to go wrong with an R7000. Powerful enough for a small business (<75 people), and the WiFi coverage is amazing.

You can grab the Asus
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS/ref=twister_B00NQQWQ3Y

Or you can get the nighthawk for 180 but can be found for less if you search online
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Very nicely done /u/drift0r. Way to keep it simple enough for the average person to understand.

What I really would like to know is what would be the benefit of getting an expensive router such as Netgear's Nighthawk AC1900 vs. the standard router/modem that comcast provides me with already? Is this where QoS becomes a huge defining factor or is that router just so expensive because of the power and range it offers for the wireless signal?

EDIT: Basically, is the nighthawk worth even considering or any "gaming" routers for that matter?

$179.99 on Amazon.ca

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Smart WiFi Router (R7000) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h8T.Ab0ABW4SS

Amazon price matched this

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-AC1900-Nighthawk-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6?th=1
And put the crappy hitron modem in bridge mode.

I swapped my modem for a Motorola Surfboard and got a Netgear router haven't had any issues with the setup.

Note that I pay for the fastest internet spectrum offers amd plan to upgrade to fiber when spectrums competitor in my area lays the lines so my setup is a tad overkill.

In my house, I use this Netgear router, and it work great:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0DD0I6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My house is about 2900 square and it covers the whole house without any issues.

Are you using the wireless part of that combo? Their modem combo is your problem. What is the model number of your modem combo? Get this ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190 and the NETGEAR Nighthawk and your troubles will end

Running in passthrough or AP mode will be less strain on the device, so ultimately it shouldn't bother you. I've run $20 wireless routers as passthrough devices and not had issues.


You seem to have money to burn, looking at that pfsense setup, so why not grab a very nice wireless router? I run THIS at home and I know there are newer ones out now, but it's a beast.

Good luck with the electricity bills on that home built pfsense :/

Have you done a WiFi survey using a mobile app or something? (some are free and they use your phone's antenna)

If your WiFi isn't too crowded (or at least if you can find a frequency that isn't overrun in your apartment) a standard WiFi network should have no problem here even for online gaming.

Just make sure you have a solid router; I'm a big fan of the R7000 because of it's custom firmware compatibility, but whatever floats your boat.

Go for Ubiquity if your house is big, say 2000sq/ft+, multiple stories and thick walls. because you need to setup at least 2 APs to cover the whole house.

If not go for Netgear R7000

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537944464&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+r7000

Its definitely much more expensive then R6700 but its worth an invest. Still within your budget also.

​

Here's the Amazon link bud.

DM me if you need help setting it up.

I picked up this badboy and haven't had to reset it even once since it was purchased ~6 months ago

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

The features and interface are crazy easy to use and there is a ton of customization if you need it.

This for a very good router for a decent price

This if you want to spend a little more and have the best.

Cheap? That's relative especially with those specs required...
I like Asus lately:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS

The Netgear Nighthawk is more:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Are you sure you need a router though? It might be you just need an access point.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465175715&sr=1-1&keywords=nighthawk

this is what I upgraded to and it has made a huge difference in watching movies from my Plex Server on XB1 compared to my old outdated router which didn't even get full bars in my 1k sq ft. condo..

I have had zero problems with this router.. easily stream 1080p 4gb movie files and of course my multiplayer gaming experience has been solid.



Checkout http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/ for other options though I think the Nighthawk R7000 is better if you can swing it.

Modems are completely independent of if a router is dual-band or not. You can safely connect that modem to a dual-band router.

For dual-band routers, personally I'd see if you can stretch your budget a little higher. I have mixed opinions on those models (750) after using it. You don't maention how large of a coverage area you need but at a minimum I'd go to the N900:

$90 N900

$120 AC1750

And my favorite AC1900/R7000 which is nearly double your price but it has excellent coverage for a two story house even. I've been really happy with the performance.

The N900 (step up from the 750) I have used successfully as well. If you want to stay under $100 I'd go with it.

I recommend hard wiring as others have said, pretty much your best bet. If you are really hard set on using wifi, I'd recommend buying your own router and modem. 1. Saves you money in the long run instead of paying that monthly fee. 2. xfinity routers are okay but I recommend getting an ac router. Here's a top rated router -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0DD0I6?keywords=ac%20router&qid=1453350166&ref_=sr_1_3&s=pc&sr=1-3 as always do your research, hope this helps!

for you:
Need: 10 Mbps in small studio.
http://pickmymodem.com/approved-modems-for-xfinity-internet-service/#x-section-6

Option-1 (Seperate Modem + Router):
SB6141 or http://amzn.to/2nTddLu
TC7610 modem http://amzn.to/2nTy8xO
or CM400 Modem http://amzn.to/2mFVZQK

with TPlink AC1200 (pretty cheap)
http://amzn.to/2oyezA4
or a better Archer C7
http://amzn.to/2oLik06

Option-2 (all-in-one):
you can choose C6220 which is AC1200 Combo
http://amzn.to/2nbnbuA

It does not have great range but good enough for small studio


For your GF:
Option-1 (seperate Modem + Router):
SB6183 is better for 100 Mbps http://amzn.to/2minyUV
and R7000 AC1900 or R6700
http://amzn.to/2oLbLLh (R7000 strongly recommended)
http://amzn.to/2oOknkU


Option-2 (all-in-one):
for a big 4BR house, go with C7000. It has pretty good range
http://amzn.to/2nbGF21


let me know if you have questions

The main issue is that the rental modems they give you are cheap and don't support DOCSIS 3.0. This is the one I got. It's going to pay for itself in 10 months since I was paying $8 a month to rent their shitty one.

Most wifi routers will be fine, but I got a pretty expensive one because I'm in a very long apartment with a lot of walls in between the cable entry and the farther room.

When I got the new modem, my up-time went from dropping once a week to not dropping at all. My speed increased as well. I'm on a 50mbps plan and before I was getting around 20-22mbps and now consistently get 25-29mbps. The new router basically just made my wifi signal never drop, ever, thanks to high transmit power and beam forming.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511045173&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nighthawk+dual+band+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41YrrbN1ojL&ref=plSrch

ok. I get it. if I'm going to be buying a router I should buy an AC model so I could future proof myself. everyone is suggesting the ac66u, but if I'm going to spend $150 to future proof myself, I'd rather pony up an extra $50+ to get the best available router out right now.

so from my research I noticed that the ASUS AC87U is pretty neat (sorry about the ASUS love but I am basing my research off of mainly one article and the author, at the time of writing, really loved the ASUS routers).

ASUS model: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AC87U-Wireless-AC2400-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00MPI5N7U

is this a good option or is there a better, cheaper option? would the ac66u suffice? would this linksys be a better alternative?

Linksys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K91DB7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427049742&sr=8-1&keywords=linksys+wrt1900ac&dpPl=1&dpID=41BI8x1i4HL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

or maybe even a nighthawk?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427052167&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+nighthawk&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41651m2TjVL&ref=plSrch

anyways I'm just wondering how do those compare to the router you've suggested? which is the best today? is it worth it to go for the ac87u even though it's still $250 or am I better off going for the $200 routers?

I literally just resolved this problem myself. I live in a 6-7 apartment unit outside boston and each one has a comcast router on 2.4GHz. I can count 20 available networks and on a wireless spectrum map I couldn't distinguish one from another. From literally 5 feet away we were pulling 2-3 Mbps down and paying for 120.

I only ended up fixing it with a bust ass 5GHz router. I went with the Nighthawk AC1900 and it's solved everything -- on 5GHz channel we get 70-80 down and even on 2.4 we can get internet in the basement from the top floor and can range from 15-40 down on a less busy day.

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_300189_4&pf_rd_p=6f74083a-4541-5fc3-91f1-2d621a6b118d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=300189&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=55YXC5Y3TKGKH1ET74CS&pf_rd_r=55YXC5Y3TKGKH1ET74CS&pf_rd_p=6f74083a-4541-5fc3-91f1-2d621a6b118d

you would probably be fine with the AC1750 tbh

6141 is old, but is generally rock solid. If the issue recurs with a brand new modem, it's likely still in the line. Did you return the other 6141?

The 6183 absolutely supports IPv6, but even if it didn't, that's not a deal breaker anyway. Several folks I know have 6183s and have no issues with them.

Get a Nighthawk. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Certified-Refurbished-R7000-100NAR-Compatible/dp/B01HW8XSV0
(refurb. version of this, I would recommend this)

If you don't want refurb, and you don't want to spend $150, then this should work, just not QUITE as well.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2

I am pretty sure mine is a v2. I have not had an issue with firmware updates as mine got an update recently. My version I actually got on Amazon for $80 under used. I have had not one problem with the router. Wish I could say the same with my internet(Spectrum). Lol.

I have never had an issue like yours. I think back in those days they were different chips and when they upgraded a version it wasn't backwards compatible. I think that's fixed now since the Nighthawk series is open source. Open source is great because you can flash your own firmware from myopenrouter.com. Dd-wrt is great I just haven't had a reason to use a secondary firmware as I've had no issues at all.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (R7000) with Open Source Support. Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NFXJzbGM6XA88

This is what I have, it's old and I bought it in 2015, but it's a beast. When this thing dies, I'm going to get a newer version.

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Buy a new router that has uPnP. I have two XB1s and probably going to get a third. I have this router and once I set it up about 3 months ago, I have never had any issues.

Your Linksys E1500 doesn't support more than 1 Xbox without NAT issues.
You may be able to get it to work by using DD-WRT but if you don't flash the correct firmware it'll brick your Linksys.
I would recommend the Netgear NightHawk R7000 if you can't get DD-WRT working.
http://www.reddit.com/r/xbox/comments/2mr5po/some_help_for_people_who_are_having_issues_with/

Well - let's see.. I know that you have Verizon with a 75/75 Connection. So it sounds like you have a FiOS Connection and most likely have an ONT (Optical Network Terminal) on the outside/inside of your house. My guess is a 611/612. None the less, it's TYPICALLY better to utilize their Modem with their services. I am not sure Verizon allows a "bring your own Modem" when you have FiOS. I do not have them, however. But from my memory, I believe that is the case. If you CAN use your own - I can definitely recommend a Modem for you!

So otherwise would suggest contacting Verizon or going to a local store - to see if you can get a STANDALONE Modem. Something with 1 LAN Ethernet Port and no internal Router/Switch. As said above - a lot of people with Modem/Router combos seem to run into more issues than not - with a lot of basic configuration changes. Such as Port Forwarding, etc. But - mileage varies depending on the user.

As for a suggested Router? Oh boy.. that depends on how hardcore you want to go. A lot of people give NETGEAR some flak, but they've been killing it lately in their Quality Control and market. I'll give you a few to go by, depending on how intense you want to go.

-----

NETGEAR Nighthawk R7000

• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6
  
  This is the more.."Lightweight" of the Nighthawk Series. They go up in "quality", for more money of course. The feature set is different as you go up in the line, but doesn't necessarily mean things will be "better". But they are great for Gaming. Not particularly because of the reasons they market, but because of how they handle Traffic internally, and their support for any odd configurations you may need to handle. Feel free to check out the Nighthawk Series a bit.
  
  NETGEAR AC1750
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Router-AC1750-Gigabit-R6300v2/dp/B00EM5UFP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494439575&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+router
  
  It's basically the same concept as the Nighthawk R7000 - actually within the same technical family. The biggest difference for the Nighthawk is more or less it's range and a few other capabilities. But in terms of performance - they typically function the same. Another excellent Choice.
  
  TP-Link Archer C7
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494439549&sr=1-1&keywords=C7+Router
  
  This thing is moderately known - but not often talked about. TP Link has always had some great quality hardware. The software isn't anything too extreme, but the quality and performance is decent enough for me to recommend it.
  
  NETGEAR N600
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K
  
  A cheaper alternative, if you don't want anything super crazy - and need something more affordable. It's a pretty decent quality, I used to have this at one point and a few of my friends use these and have never had any issues with any Port Forwarding, or extras that they've needed to take care of. Great signal quality in a 2 story home - and kills it in performance for the price.
  
  -----
  
  Those are a few of my recommendations. Of course there are plenty more - but those ones specifically I have had great experiences with. Either with friends, or my own personal preference. For myself, I have the Nighthawk R7000 and previously had the NETGEAR N600. The only reason I left that one behind - was because I wanted a little more of an extended range when I was outside of my home in the yard. Which the R7000 handled perfectly. But - that's not a scenario many people really deal with. Plus you can always make/buy an extender.
  
  I'm glad to help, when I can! :)
  
  
  

DOTA guy here. There are no friends in public games.

ANYWAYSSSS--

This is in your price range, and fantastic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C9VB318?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00C9VB318

I know the look of it is a bit odd. No status lights for the individual LAN ports... but that's ok for you.

If you wanted to go bigger, this has a bit better speeds at long range, but is slightly outside your budget. It's also the router I use at home: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419565731&sr=1-1&keywords=r7000

At somewhat close range, the D-Link I listed performs the same as the R7000.

All that being said, I'd save the $50 and get the first one. If you had a ton of devices, I'd say get the R7000. You likely won't be able to tell the difference, though, with under 5 machines.... unless it's on the opposite side of the house or something.

I have the nighthawk r7000 and love it. https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

everyone in this thread for the most part seems to love Ubiquiti. looks like you can get a secure gateway, 8 port managed switch and an AC access point for ~$400 and have a prosumer/enterprise level system.

if you are looking for simpler/cheaper all in one and like netgear, the r7000 is well regarded at ~$150. i've had one for a couple of years and its been rock solid. (the r7000p might be the better option for an extra 30 for the MIMO capabilities, but i don't have the experience with it to say). when you feel like tinkering, throw Xwrt-Vortex or dd-wrt on it.

ultimately ubiquiti looks like the more robust solution, and future upgrades to new wireless standards would clock in most likely cheaper then a new all in one router as you just need to swap in a new access point, all while giving higher security and more overall network capability and flexibility.

Most of them use Verizon FiOS. Under FiOS, you get the same upload and download speed, so if you get 100Mbps download, you'll get 100Mbps upload; very good for streaming at a price that's better than competitors' like TWC and Comcast.

For routers I suggest the Netgear AC3200 Nighthawk X6 Triband Router (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC3200-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-R8000/dp/B00KWHMR6G). It's costly but this thing will give you WiFi speeds that are equivalent to wired ethernet speeds, and the LOWEST band (which is a 2.4GHz band) is capable of 600 Mbps, with the other two 5GHz bands packing up to 1.3Gbps capabilities each (which you won't get even with Google Fiber).

If you don't want to spend $270, get the Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band router for $185 (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412720595&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+nighthawk).

If there are a lot of people in your house that use WiFi, and you guys do any kind of video streaming or need constant, stable WiFi connections nearly the entire day, the extra money you spend on the TriBand AC3200 is WELL worth it. You will not need to upgrade routers for a long while. Furthermore, AC is the newest WiFi technology, and it just started to be included in several new technological devices like the iPhone 6 or newer laptops. 802.11ad is just around the corner, but it will still be backwards compatible with a/b/g/n/ac

You'll get extremely quick and stable WiFi connection with the AC3200 TriBand router. No need for a wireless adapter to boost signal capture unless your PC doesn't have a built-in WiFi card. Reason being is the router has range that will cover your entire house while still being extremely stable, especially if you're able to get it somewhere near the middle of your house in an open space with no surrounding furniture or objects to 'deter' any signal.

Yeah it looks like one too, lol. Picked it up last Black Friday from Staples for pretty cheap after ink recycling rewards.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/

If you're looking for decent performance, look for a dual band 802.11n router such as the Asus RT-N66U. If you're looking for the best performance, get a dual band 802.11AC router such as the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC87U. Also, make sure you have a Docsis 3.0 Modem if you have cable.

This Router is the one that I have at my house. It's super fast and we don't notice any slowdown and we have lots and lots of streaming going on at a time. It's fast enough to also handle any faster internet plan you get as well. And it's range is pretty damn impressive.

How many devices do you have? I have 7 devices (computer/tablet/phones) along with 2 TVs streaming 4K so although my speed is not the fastest (advertised 60mbps), I decided to go overboard with my modem/router set up.

If you only have a few devices, you can easily find them on Amazon for fairly cheap like this one. You can find general xfinity modem/router on craigslist/eBay fairly cheap if you don't mind them being used previously.

I am using this set up to have dual-band wifi and all that jazz. I don't even know if it makes a difference but I got the router for fairly cheap so why not.

Yep, they have it now, and they have ECHO, too, for wireless repeaters. With that being said, you can get the R7000 or R8000 and both will do the job nicely.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Gigabit-R8000/dp/B00KWHMR6G

Current prices are 180 and 242, but there may be sales going on since it is Memorial Day weekend.

What kind of price range are you working with?

<100$

>100$

It's the router. I've had the same Netgear N150 for over four years. Definitely time for a new one. This is the one to get, or at least that I'm planning on getting: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R7000)

Buy a better router and you should have no issues. Also try to set the router closer to the bedroom area so the coverage will be better in the back. If it is only you then you wdon't need that much band with. Something like the R7000 would be sufficient.

Gigabit!!! Lucky. Yeah I have a rack full of equipment. the modem is from Comcast, but my router is a NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router

this is a nighthawk

edit: and this is some sort of alien mothership from the same search

You can get a good solid AC router for that. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00R2AZLD2?th=1

If you want to spend a little more https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

and something off this page to go in her PC
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=Wireless+AC+adapter&N=-1&isNodeId=1

I'm a big fan of the Netgear Nighthawk (http://amzn.com/B00F0DD0I6/?tag=niclake-20). I tried out the ASUS RT-AC66U as well, and while it's good, I feel like the overall performance of the Nighthawk is better.

I have the Netgear R7000.

I can only speak to what I did, and am very happy with. I bought the netgear r7000, flashed dd-wrt onto it, and then setup PIA on it.

Here is the router: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425526696&sr=8-1&keywords=r7000&dpPl=1&dpID=41651m2TjVL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Here is a guide for flashing to ddwrt (I think it's the one I used about 6 months ago). http://www.tweaking4all.com/hardware/netgear-r7000-dd-wrt/

Here is the PIA guide for setting up openvpn on a ddwrt router with PIA. https://www.privateinternetaccess.com/pages/client-support/#ddwrt_openvpn

This is the beginning of what I setup. I've since done more, like only having my HTPC go through the VPN using routes on the router, and certain services bypass the VPN (plex for one). I also can throw other devices onto the VPN as needed like Roku, Xbox one, iPad, etc. But that starts getting a little deep. I love this router, and it is also recommended by wirecutter.com, which usually provides pretty good reviews on products (headed up by a former gizmodo editor).

Good luck, and feel free to ask questions anytime.

Edit: this might be more than you want to spend, and it can be done cheaper I'm sure. The router runs about $200 usually.

I'm digging my Netgear 7000P. It covers my 2000sqft house and with a wire to my Roku it's been solid on 5Ghz and 2.4 for my family's various phones and tablets and laptops. I paid <100$ on Amazon for it.

Firmware: DD-WRT v3.0-r36070M kongac (05/31/18)
Time: 18:50:18 up 59 days, 2:54, load average: 0.29, 0.20, 0.14

Here's the router I use.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449412652&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=netgear+r7000&dpPl=1&dpID=41MfXitXjeL&ref=plSrch

Funny, I just [ordered this] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00F0DD0I6?psc=1). Arrives tuesday.

I had that problem earlier when I was running perk off the FIOS router provided by Verizon. The router kept on dropping the connection so I ended up buying this router on Black Friday. I have not had any dropped connections since. I love this router.

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499700493&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=netgear+nighthawk&dpPl=1&dpID=41MfXitXjeL&ref=plSrch

This is mine.

Fantastic router. Almost never have to reboot it. Just set and forget.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6?pc_redir=T1 baller ass router. I mean that's my guess. I don't have any boost or anything.

Really depends on your needs and how much you are willing to spend (Both time and money). Do you want mesh wifi kit with antennas in each room?(go with Eero or Orbi) Do you want enterprise grade router and wireless access point? (go with edgerouter x or pfsense with unifi ap) If you want something simple like ac1900 then I would recommend you buy it now as its on sale for 44% off at amazon https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Amazon has it for $180 though and looking at price history $200 is the highest it's been there since mid-February. >$300 for the router is a bit of a BS price...

https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/

Netgear night hawk http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Even if you don't have any AC devices you'll still get a very Nice bump in range and performance, esp in throughput and overall performance

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/32512-does-an-ac-router-improve-n-device-performance

If you want something a touch cheaper get the Netgear N900 WNDR4500 $99-119 in most cases just as fast and range.

This is what I have, and it does its job. Not sure how others feel about it. I have a large house, but we couldn't run cable to put multiple access points up, and this covers the entire place.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425526696&sr=8-1&keywords=r7000&dpPl=1&dpID=41651m2TjVL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Nighthawk+AC1900&qid=1554863740&s=gateway&sr=8-4 is this the same model?

> Linksys EA4500

Yeah, that is probably the issue.

To start with, can you move the router closer to your usage area? It's easy and a lot cheaper than buying something new. You may find that moving it just 5 feet could help, too, especially if it is sitting next to something metal.

I have this router and it's pretty good. It was top ranked at SmallNetBuilder:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1454246694&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+r700

Your PC is fine. An i7 is overkill IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453138055&sr=1-1&keywords=nighthawk (i have this personally)

or even cheaper http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Gigabit-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453138078&sr=1-2&keywords=tp+link+archer+c7 both will do great.


To add, to get the open nat you will still need to do a bit of configuration on the router - more or less just simply turning Upnp on.

If you use 5 Ghz, you should be able to get full speeds like I do. I get the same speed on WiFi, as I get if I connected via ethernet. You just need a good strong router (such as a TP-Link AC1900 (I use this one) or NETGEAR AC1900) and a good wireless adapter OR a good Wireless Bridge and connect via ethernet (I use a bridge so that I don't have to deal with Wireless Adapter drivers)

At the moment we have a standalone modem(i believe) and a cheap belkin router, the basement is where we use computers the tvs in the basement and ground floor are used for streaming and the upstairs is only ever needed for phones and tablets. The coverage is okay but I simply do not know much about networking. I was looking at some APs but is it better to get a standalone Router then 3 aps? at the moment we only have a handful of other networks that are in range.

Or should i keep the $20 belkin router and just put in aps?

Some that I have looked up from other sources said something like these:

1.) https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ and https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/

2.) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320174

3.) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6

4.) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-Router-800MHz-Processor/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8

I'd first of all determine if your existing router supports UPnP. if it does, make sure it is enabled and go from there.

If you have an all-in-one device from Comcast, then replacing it won't be as easy as just buying a router. but if you currently have a modem and a separate router, you can just buy any router you want. I use an ASUS router, but pretty much any router that supports UPnP should be fine. this netgear is well regarded for use with multiple Xbox consoles.

Arris motorola SB6183 or SB6190

Have used the SB6183 for many years now, and no real issues. Small hiccups here and there when a new firmware comes out or something goes wrong on Comcast's end.

As for router, I use the Netgear R7000 Nighthawk. Its pretty nice. Fast, looks ok and simply works. Its not too flashy. I connect multiple iPhones to it, and all my consoles(Ps4, ps3, xbox 360, xbox one, WiiU, and more) and PC's and have not ever had any issues with it. I also use it with my Apple TV 4 to stream wirelessly and the speed and range are fantastic.

Netgear R7000 shoud do the trick. I would not use it if he lives in an apartment though.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450902200&sr=8-1&keywords=r7000

http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/24043/~/how-many-clients-can-you-connect-wirelessly-to-a-netgear-router%3F

you wont be happy with the wifi speeds of a n450 class router.
this one is GOOD.
https://smile.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=wifi+router&qid=1573379646&sr=8-10

but if you dont want to spend that much
this one is half the price (but has slower wifi - not as slow as the n450
https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?keywords=wifi+router&qid=1573379646&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFPSzZSSkhVN0NSODgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA4Mjk2MzBRRDY4TzFZQlhHWlomZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDEyMzUzMDFVNDdWVVdMVE9DRjEmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

I was dealing with this recently and got a program called ping plotter which I then used to ping 8.8.8.8 over and over for days and was able to observe intermittent spikes of latency and packet loss, as well as a few 20-60 minute periods of 100% outage. I had my ISP come out and because it is cable had them remove unneeded splitters in between their box outside and my modem (because each splitter decreases the signal intensity and adds noise) and also had them redo the coax connector ends of the cable. The stuff that was outside had corroded over time and was also causing an inconsistent/noisy connection.

Things visually improved pretty dramatically-- the signal viewed on a time scale of days had fewer spikes and wasn't as "thick" (like.. the relative standard deviation of the latency dropped.) I haven't had any issues since. In my case there were two splitters and an old union: the union and one splitter outside, and one more splitter in the basement.

I tried replacing the two splitters myself and it didn't help, even though the one outside looked like it was installed back when Alf was still on the air. Hard to say if it was all contributing to the problem or if there was one weak link... but the same is true for many people who have problems with their ISP. If the issue is further upstream than the last piece of connection coming into your house it can be a real bitch, but having the easy stuff redone can at least help half split the problem and eliminate some possible causes.

FYI if you're using a router and modem provided by your ISP (or any 'all in one' router+modem) that is another big source of issues. Most ISPs allow you to provide your own modem, but even if they require you to use their modem providing your own router is something that could help with your problems.

I had a time warner cable provided combo router/modem a few years ago and was having all sorts of issues. I replaced the router part by getting my own netgear ac1900 (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Support/dp/B00F0DD0I6) and then when time warner rolled out 350 mbit connections in my area I needed to get a better modem to utilize all the bandwidth and I replaced their modem with an Arris SB 6183 (https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00MA5U1FW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480391388&sr=1-1&keywords=sb+6183).

Wireless issues and instances where my internet stopped working and I needed to reboot the modem to fix it dropped dramatically.

Heads up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0DD0I6?ref=emc_b_5_t is also on sale, no $20 coupon like the N6700, but still.. $119 is the lowest it's ever been on Amazon in 3 years.

The only question you need to ask yourself is "Is the current speed I'm seeing in all the areas I use it, fast enough for my needs?"

Roughly translated, do you want it to be faster? If that answer is yes, then you should absolutely consider getting something new. If you do purchase something new, do yourself a favor and don't buy the budget AC model on the shelf at best buy. I would consider at a minimum getting an AC1900 if not more. if you are going to upgrade make sure it will meet your needs for a while!

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494005297&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+1900

I have the netgear nighthawk 7000 listed above, there are similarly priced modems from linksys and asus that will perform just as well. The transmit power on the nighthawk is great. It sits on the middle floor on one end of my ~2000 sq ft. colonial and can pull a few hundred mb/sec on the opposite end of my house through a floor, and around 4 walls.

The distance is even good enough to stream music to my phone at any point of my property, the farthest point being around 150' away and across the entire house. I fiddled with your run of the mill $80 router for years. When I ponied up and bought this one it was an unbelievable difference. When I bought it the R7000 was one of their higher end models. Now it's practically on the bottom.

For your budget idk if youre going to find anything that good. Although this is higher, this is what i have after doing alot of research. I have several devices connected at once. Honestly i havent had to reboot the router, other than when applying firmware updates. Ive had it for about a year now, also has excellent range. I know its expensive, but you wont need another router for years.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1419176640&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+nighthawk

This is the router being used Firmware is updated. Works without a problem with an ethernet cable.

My USB wireless adapter is from when I didn't have an available PCI-E slot for a better one. I have room now though, so I'll look into getting a better one.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/ (I don't know much about modems, but have seen this one frequently recommended on support subreddits)

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ (2.4 ghz only, good enough for 99% of people)

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ (5ghz + 2.4ghz, good if you are in a heavily congested WiFi area, i.e. have 10+ strong-medium strength interfering networks)

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ (If you can spend more then get this instead of the N66U above)

What ISP do you have?
A good amount of ISP's tend to give a modem that takes the connection from your wall port, and allows for you to use an ethernet cable to plug into a router, or directly into your PC. You are right in that it is a combo.

First see if the ISP will give you a non-combo modem. If not, a motorolla modem is a good choice. Get the wire from the wall, plug that to your modem, and the get the ethernet and plug one end into the modem and then one end to the wireless router, and then you should be set.


Modem

Router

Something like this Netgear would work well. When some new neighbors moved in and were looking for a router for their 500mbps connection I recommended it and they get the full speed via Ethernet.

The range will vary depending on the materials of the walls, what's in the etc. but Amazon has a great return policy.

https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500507712&sr=1-4&keywords=netgear%2Brouter&th=1

1. Get this modem: https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6183-Docsis-Packaging/dp/B00MA5U1FW
   
2. Get this router: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00R2AZLD2
   
3. Or this router: https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6
   
4. Profit
   
   Make sure you verify with your ISP that the modem is supported before purchasing.

aaah I see. So I would probably have to get a router like this that has that one seperated yellow Rj45 port instead of just a coax port?

Good 'ol Nighthawk. Love this baby.

are there max transfer rates higher for different routers? Such as this one on amazon

while 100mbps is hardly a gigabit I would very much like to take full advantage of my internet upgrade and am concerned my router isnt cutting it, or at the very least settings arent ideal

You are correct regarding the OS, I guess I was over thinking it. Networking wise the server goes straight into my router:

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_37?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414524106&sr=1-37&keywords=asus+router

And feeds the media to the Fire TV's through the Power Line Ethernet Adapters. I assume I should worry about those being the bottle neck? Speed test on my PS4 shows I'm getting about 28-30mbs through them, although those are internet speeds and not local network speeds. Is there a chart somewhere that shows what kind of speeds you need to stream a 20gig .mkv file?

In my experience, android devices are very susceptible to WiFi interference. I'm not sure why, but maybe it has something to do with power-saving features? At any rate, try downloading WiFi Analyzer and check to see if there are any other networks around you on the same channel. If there are, configure your router to use a channel that is more empty. I would especially suspect this if you are living in an apartment as there are likely many other wifi networks nearby.

EDIT: Another thing, it seems that a lot of the time people just get the cheapest WiFi router they can find or use a built-in router that came with their cable or DSL modem thinking that they are all the same. Upgrading to a quality router might save you a lot of trouble. I have this one and it solved all of my range and speed issues (thanks in large part to beam-forming technology). The N4 doesn't support 802.11AC but it will support N and you will eventually have a phone that does. If you are ever going to stream video between devices, stream games to a device or have an internet connection over ~200Mbps, you'll be glad you have that extra speed.

I don't know of any, sorry. I don't remember having any trouble figuring out how to do it based on the router's config pages.

I'm currently using a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900

There are plenty of other ways to get wireless Time Machine without shelling out for Apple's router. For instance, this WD MyCloud + the router I recommended is about the same price as the 3TB Time Capsule, but you get an extra TB of storage, and when the drive dies, you can get another without replacing the router as well.

Nope, Asus made one too. I think they're pretty similar.

https://www.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

I recommend an 802.11AC router, so you can actually take advantage of the 1gbps connection over wireless somewhat.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

I often refer the Netgear Nighthawk to friends, very consistent, works great. I've been using it for the past 2 years, doesn't have any issues. Older models usually have more support and all the bugs worked out/updated by now too. It's easy to setup.

It depends on what you are doing though... are you a technical person? Do you have a home server that you want to utilize? Are you going to use Power of Ethernet? etc...

If you just want something that works and doesn't need a whole lot of headache, just get the Nighthawk.

So... Why don't you just return your router if you really need AC? Check out the Netgear Nighthawk. I have it and love it.

Netgear Nighthawk AC1900: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0DD0I6/
TP-Link AC1750: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JD7F7G/

This bad boy? Did you purchase your own modem too?

Thanks for the help, by the way.

I have the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 and a Motorola Arris SB6141. They are rock solid and now pretty affordable:

SB6141

R7000

I have no personal experience with the Google WiFi ecosystem, but from a quick Google search, I could not find anything that shows it being supported.

I was able to find this netgear router that supports creating a OpenVPN server, and quite easily infact, just seems like a couple of clicks.
Netgear R7000-100PAS Nighthawk AC1900

VPN Guide

I chose this router because of my personal trust for Netgear products, and their simple to use interface for a home user with some advanced functionality for the prosumers. For your Modem, heres one that I found: Netgear N300.

Depending what your ISP and router you can set up something similar to parental controls where the network is shut off on the devices selected (either manually or based of a schedule).

If your modem is not capable of such tasks then getting a new modem/router that allows this feature.

E: Since you're using a VPN for work then maybe a Nighthawk from Netgear could be the best.

That’s why my R7000 does right?

R7000

I think I'll be ok :)

I am waiting to spend big bucks on an AC router until the standard is set in stone, hopefully sometime in the next year or so. The Nighthawk AC1900 is definitely a beast, but it's pushing your budget and might not get all the range you want. You could get 2 of these Linksys EA4500 or 1 and another cheaper access point and get better coverage and performance overall.

Yes i do its the http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6 its 5ghz signal is pretty good where ps4 is and i would love to take advantage of it.

Just got my Gear VR in the mail yesterday, followed your steps and I'm getting some pretty bad lag. It's definitely a network issue, however I am running high performance router(s). Any tips on wifi setup? 1st router is a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 I've tried connecting to both the N and G signals I have setup. From there it's hardwired to my PC through a Asus RT-N16 router that is running in switch mode. All connections are gigabit capable too. I also have a third Wifi network running off the Asus router but it is configured more for range than latency and it had the worst of the lag out of the three. I unfortunately have no wireless card installed in my rig so no WiFi Direct to test. Sorry if that got too nerdcore, networking sucks haha!

I'm going to update my Netgear's firmware and give it another go!

NOTE: I posted this yesterday and got a lot of helpful information about modems, but not as much about routers. As such, I decided I'd try posting again today to see if anyone else could spare some thoughts on router choices.

My parents are switching their ISP from AT&T to Time Warner Cable. They mentioned that they wanted to purchase a router / modem instead of renting one since it will save them money in the long run and will likely perform better than the leased product from TWC. So, I come here asking for router suggestions

Relevant Information:

• The budget for the router, is $200. Obviously, if it's possible to spend less that would be excellent.
  
• My parents have a fairly large house (I can provide square footage if helpful) with many walls and at times there can be up to three people streaming content at a time.
  
• The internet speed they'll be receiving will be 300 Mbps.
  
  I came across the Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 and it seems like a pretty solid router, but on Newegg it only has three stars. I also came across the TP-Link Touch which has high ratings on both Amazon and Newegg. Any thoughts on either of these? If neither of the routers I linked are adequate, please point me in the direction of one that would work better.
  
  Thanks for your help.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Smart WiFi Router (R7000)

Why? <-- Click for the full report

• Fastest WAN (Internet) through LAN (Local wired and wireless) throughput.
  
• 2nd Fastest LAN to WAN
  
• Greatest Simultaneous Connection support. (Great for connecting every smartphone, wireless device, laptop, gaming, security camera, torrent, and whatever we're putting wireless modules in today)
  
• Very high maximum simultaneous limit.
  
• $190.99 on Amazon.

RT-AC5300 is over hyped, and over priced. Triband is one of the most useless things ever.

ASUS RT-AC87U, or Asus RT-AC88U

If you want a quality router on the lower end go with NETGEAR Nighthawk R7000 it goes on sale every 2 month and is around 150.

[Netgear AC1900] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-AC1900-Nighthawk-Smart-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6)

also make sure you set up [Port Forwarding] (http://portforward.com/) on your router for the Chromecast

http://www.amazon.com/SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Retail-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0


Plus


http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463423877&sr=1-1&keywords=Netgear


Will leave you plenty of room for adding more devices, has crazy good range (we have one on the 2nd floor, and get full reception in the basement), and will nicely futureproof you in case you happen to get gigabit service at some point in the future.

I posted this question on r/mlbstreams and someone on there uses a first gen chromecast without stuttering issues but he has a wicked router - Netgear AC1900.


Maybe my router just doesn't have the power to handle my PC accessing a stream AND sending that stream from my PC to the chromecast. Either way, I ordered the new chromecast so we'll see if it makes a difference. If anyone is interested I can let you know how it goes.

Yeah this is by far my most common way of using my gear VR and I love it.

The router I am using is an AC router. Its the AC1900 by Netgear
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464194086&sr=8-2&keywords=ac1900+netgear

I picked it up on sale at Best Buy For 129.99. Couldnt pass it up

I bought one of these bad boys from "the open box (website linked)" a while back that works with my MidCo cable internet. It wasn't new but it was cheap and it works. Then, I bought this thing which might have been a bit overkill, but dang is this thing awesome. I'd recommend them both, but you could probably do better with a less crazy wireless router.

There are a ton of options available to you. A repeater or wired access point may be something you'd consider:

I bought the Netgear AC1900 as a refurb, and couldn't be happier:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6

Easy installation, very good speeds, and the firmware has reasonably good security to keep the bad guys out of your network.

There should be no need to have so many hard drives in a PC. With his budget you should be rethinking home networking capabilities.

5 Bay, 15 TB NAS, RAID 5 = 12 TB of usable space --$2000, not quite SATA 3.0 speeds, but good

[2 AC Wireless Routers](
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395110922&sr=8-1&keywords=AC+Router) --$400

Also will need a 1500-2000W UPS.

Hey, I'm glad I can talk about this with someone who is interested! No worries of annoying me with your question, networking is my passion.

An unmanaged gigabit switch would be fine for 99% of normal setups. Having a managed switch that supports VLANs will allow more flexibility in how you decide to connect devices logically but in a normal house, it's not necessary. If you start having a lab to play with, security camera you want on a different network, or a guest wifi with users that shouldn't be able to see your other devices, the managed switch becomes a necessity. Honestly, switching hardware for unmanaged switches are probably all made in the same Broadcom factory in China, so any brand will do. When you go for a managed switch, then software quality matters and spending a little more can avoid large frustrations later on.

For a 1Gbps internet link, there are two kinds of setup possible. If you have a larger house, or can't place the router centrally, I would recommend a "separate devices setup" with the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite, a switch like the Netgear Prosafe GS116E if VLANs are needed or the TP-Link TL-SG108 if they aren't needed and on the AP side, one or two of the Ubiquiti AP AC Lite, or if you want more speed the AP AC Pro. This would allow you to make use of the 1Gbps you get.

You could also go for an integrated unit like the Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC68U. If you have a smaller house or apartment and the router can be placed centrally, this is probably the most cost-effective setup.

For something not Ubiquiti, I would suggest Mikrotik, as they will have something that supports 1Gbps routing. They also have nice APs. They have a lot of models though, so I can't say which one would work best.

There are so many choices it's hard to be able to say "this is the best device for you". There are combinations that I know they will work well, but there are so many options I don't know them all.

How come you want a modem/router hybrid? They causes problems. It's best to get a router and modem separate.

Wireless N is the standard for Wifi capable devices. The next Wifi protocol is AC, And AC routers full supports wireless N and b/g ( i have a asus ac66r).

For your budget you can get an AC router, You would be future proofing your network and you won't have to buy a new router in the future. The xbox one supports AC but it's not activated yet.

Top AC routers
Netgear nighthawk $180.099

Asus rt-ac66u $169.99

So what router would be better overall for my situation? The Linksys I posted or this one: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Think this is causing more stress than necessary. :P

I'm rocking https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466582208&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+r7000+nighthawk I've had the thing for 2 years now in Aus but hasn't given me much grief, after i set the USB3.0 external HDD to EXT4 format instead of NTFS.

I've looked around on Amazon, the issue is I don't know what exactly is good, and what is useless filler info.
https://smile.amazon.com/R7000-100PAS-Nighthawk-Parental-Controls-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_3905707922?_encoding=UTF8&crid=P3UUTEDWLC8P&ie=UTF8&keywords=router&qid=1562888803&s=gateway&sprefix=Router%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-9


I saw this one, $150 price tag which isn't a lot. I am willing to spend upwards of 250 for a good, reliable router.

when I google that router the only for sale link that popped up was on ebay for $5 so it may be time for an upgrade in general. There are a lot of factors to consider but in general: you could upgrade your modem from the one given to you by your ISP. It will usually be a little more reliable and saves you the $10 or so a month rental fee. Next, you have to look at your house set up. Most routers should handle more than 30 feet without to big of an issue (assuming there arent weird walls or other things that would create interference). So a simple upgrade would be great. My favorite is the Netgear AC1900. It's easy to work with and will cover a solid area. I get single when working in my yard easily 200ft away from the router location. Those would be the two most common things to upgrade. Also to consider is what speed is expected from your ISP and if your laptop's internet card are current enough to take advantage of current bands.

Any way you could offer tips for my router? I have the Netgear Nighthawk AC1900.

Additionally, here's an example of the stuttering that I suffer from. My ping is always good and I never get the connection error symbol.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415292205&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+nighthawk

With IP passthrough from my Uverse gateway to the router. This does not bridge the router, but allows the outside IP to be shared with one other device on the network, which happens to be my router. I suppose you could also use router behind a router setting as well.

I have Xbox One, two 360's and they can all be on at the same time with open NAT.

I'm wireless (albeit I have a nighthawk) and I still don't have "lag" problems

I also have at least 50 mbps down 10mbps up... so by theory I should have a lot of "lag" problems since people are punished for good connections because of lag comp... yet I don't