Reddit reviews NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS)

I bought these, they’ve been fantastic. Stable and fast.
I’m in a home, built in the last 12 years so relatively new electrical. Each adapter is plugged into a wall outlet alone.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you should go wired for maximum speeds and the best connection, if your router is too far from your console you should check these out

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486060443&sr=1-3&keywords=ethernet+plug+powerline

these things are great!

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

You should consider Power over Ethernet instead. It lets you create a LAN connection through the electricity in your house by plugging one adapter into your router and the other into your computer. This is the one I'm using and I'll never look back.

EDIT: formatting

Check this out

Yea true again. I'm going to give the NetGear Powerline stuff a try.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01929ESG6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Seems like a good way to wire stuff scattered around the house!

Yes, but go for Netgear, I have personally had a better experience with Netgear than TP Link or Linksys....

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HdV.Ab8VQZD0F

Cheaper Powerline adapters https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481569843&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+powerline

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $549.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1417.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:29 EDT-0400 |

Same build but 1080ti

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $724.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1592.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:30 EDT-0400 |

Edit if you need a Wifi adapter this one will be good. Wifi is not recommend for online gaming thought. I would go with a powerline adapter if you have a free ethernet port on your router. I have some of these connecting the devices in my house and they work great.

Understandable. Another option could be a cheap Ethernet over Powerline adapter if your garage is on the same panel as you house.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494353640&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+over+powerline

There's not a noticeable difference between 3200 and 3000. There is a 16 GB kit of 3000 MHz Vulcan memory on sale right now for $100 and a 16 GB kit of 3200 MHz G Skill memory for $115. Upon further thought, if you're just mainly building this to game, then I wouldn't be concerned about memory speed.

Also you mentioned getting a motherboard with WiFi. While it is very convenient to have, might I suggest getting a powerline adapter if it is not possible to pull a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable through your house and walls? Something like this one would greatly improve download speeds: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B01929ESG6. I use one for my home NAS box that I have stuffed into the corner of my basement...works great. Not something you have to get now obviously, but something to keep in mind if you're not happy with your wireless speeds.

If you purchased a PowerLine adapter a long time ago, you probably had a PowerLine adapter with the original HomePlug AV1 specification. In short, AV1 sucked hard, and gave PowerLine adapters a bad rap.

The new PowerLine adapters with the HomePlug AV2 specification are more than capable of providing stability to online games. I use a set of 1000Mbps NETGEAR adapters, and I do not have this issue in any other game, just Rocket League, which leads me to believe that the game sends information too frequently at higher framerates. I don't have any packet loss issues when capped at 60FPS, but because I have a 144Hz monitor it looks very choppy without at least 144FPS.

As for your solution, that's what I used to do when I had a larger bedroom closer to our networking gear. Now I do not; because I've been going to higher ed for the past few years, my sister has taken over my old room, which makes perfect sense since I'm not there most of the year. My new room is too far to pass an Ethernet cable to (and too small for a desktop), so I situate my desktop in our living room and use a PowerLine adapter.

Thank you for the suggestion though! I appreciate the politeness, your English is great for someone who isn't a native speaker.

If you want a permanent fix with out a crazy long cable, get this;

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iVxXBbKD13EZZ

If you want to know what's wrong, it's probably servers and their bandwidth. It's probably getting bogged down from all the people on that server downloading.

That, or your Xbox could be downloading chunks of information and got behind in writing it to the hard drive. So your Xbox might be installing portions, then downloading.

Could also be your WiFi router putting your Xbox at the end of the priority list, or limiting it because of ports. There's a few ways to fix it, but I wouldn't recommend this step as it can be tedious and time consuming fixing it. Especially if you don't know what you're doing.

The model I used for a church is discontinued and replaced by newer, but the Ubiquiti PowerBeam series are quite nice. Our buildings were around 150ft apart and we have full speed at the receiving end:

Powerbeam

Connect a WAP at the receiving end of the antenna and you have WiFi 500FT away.

Edit: Yeah $200 plus some cabling and install time isn't "Cheap" to some, but you can repurpose them after the party or attach them if you ever do another party. I don't think powerline would do well at 500ft but you can definitely try PowerLine Adapters - Just make sure you catch the same run of electricity that is shared with the house (If the electric is a separate service than the house then these won't work at all

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1GEX0Y5ZFMJPQ&keywords=netgear+ethernet+extender&qid=1569291096&s=gateway&sprefix=netgear+ethernet+%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-4

The old case will not fit the GPU and its generally outdated in terms of cooling and layout.Even if the gpu could fit,the case would run hot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ In order for it to perform well it must not be plugged into a power strip and it should be part of the same circuit breaker panel.

Gsync is used along with Vsync and also an fps limiter at 142 fps.This way input lag remains extremely low and screen tearing is eliminated.

If you disable Vsync then you get screen tearing.If you do not use an fps limiter with vsync on then if you reach 144fps Vsync takes over and you get huge input lag.(not that huge but big difference).

In overwatch at least,I cannot notice screen tearing on my 144hz monitor even if I try to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADYzuMe17q8 this video indirectly explains how to get the most out of the Gsync technology.Data at 8:20

Lastly by using Gsync you reduce the frametime variance.

I cannot vote against Gsync because I have never experienced it.I cannot vote for it also because i definitely do not need it.The monitor below comes with freesync(amd equivalent).Maybe amd can come up with a decent GPU that will be able to run 1440p144hz in the future.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Scythe Kotetsu 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $39.17 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z270 GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $112.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix SL308 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $155.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $684.79 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Corsair 270R ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.99 @ My Choice Software
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC AG271QX 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $429.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2343.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $2293.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 19:06 EDT-0400 |

USB Wifi adapters are bad for gaming, as USB 2.0 doesn't really have the throughput to transfer data at an acceptable rate. You'll have these problems no matter what kind of dongle you use.

Instead, I would recommend a powerline adapter such as this. They're much more reliable.

I used Netgear adapters for an install. Initially I plugged the one into the room it was going to be in and it did not get a connection at all. I changed to the outlet in the hallway and got a full speed connection. I would try switching outlets, you can even use a farther one and pick up a smaller ethernet cable. Here is the link for the adapters I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you get the power line adapters, yes you can remove the wireless adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01929ESG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494263848&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=powerline+network+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41vAVpQaRtL&ref=plSrch


Something like this should work well.
(sorry for the long link, I am on mobile)

I think you're talking about powerline adapters? There is a chance that they don't work in your house, they are hit or miss. Like you said I would try plugging into the router directly to see if it's your computer or the adapters.

You shouldn't need anything else. For me I just got a powerline adapter for the xbox one the tv, don't ask I got a deal on it ($80) COMPLETE overkill but the wifi functionality is also very handy for where it is, internet used to be unusable there. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-powerline-wi-fi-1000-access-point-and-adapter-white/4760605.p?skuId=4760605&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=bac6a3e4-eb83-48c2-a7ec-46bf847acf9c&ksprof_id=401&ksaffcode=pg112537&ksdevice=m&lsft=ref:212,loc:2

Didn't even have a pair button, works like magic. Id get a gigabit one for sure but you can pay less than $100 for it... Highly recommend this option.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01929ESG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484502846&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=powerline+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41vAVpQaRtL&ref=plSrch

This is probably better for you.

Im taking a look at your list.

Here is a Netgear powerline kit that looks good: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-1000-Essentials-PL1010-100PAS/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480819075&sr=1-10&keywords=powerline+adapter

I have a friend who bought this and it works great for him. Let me know if you have questions OP

The nice thing about PowerLine is that it either works really well, or it's complete garbage. As long as you don't have the type of AFCI breakers that mess with them, and if your outlets are on the same phase, they then to be rock solid. Buy them from someplace with a good return policy, plug them in, and see if they work in your environment.

I have two sets of these, so two that have built in wifi and two that are just the ethernet.

• Non-wifi 1: Connected to my router on the 1st floor
  
• Non-wifi 2: Cconnected to my wife's computer on the 2nd floor
  
• Wifi 1: In the living room, 2nd floor, ethernet port unused. Roku4 connects to this with wifi.
  
• Wifi 2: In detached garage/workshop, ethernet port unused
  
  The router and both wifi powerline adaptors are set to the same SSID and password, and laptops/phones switch between them as needed.
  
  You could get the pair I linked above, or you could skip the wifi part and just get this pair.
  
  I also had a pair of these that worked just fine. The only reason I replaced them was because I wanted to add the wifi capabilities.
  
  Remember that the default encryption is identical for every device shipped from the factory. That means anybody who owns the same device could access your network by plugging in to an outlet on the outside of your house, or in another apartment in the same building. Leave the encryption alone when you're first setting things up, but make sure that after you've got it all working and you're happy with the performance, you go back and change the encryption so that only your devices will work together.

So would I get this
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493732895&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+homeplug+adapter

plus a modem and a router?

I prefer not to recommend, as what may work for someone may not work for you. WiFi is a very situational thing. But I'll give some more information:

First, find out if your router is running (802.11) AC or N or other (G/B?). AC is the most modern, N is still OK. Are you running a 5GHz network or a 2.4GHz network? Is the PC near the router, or a fair bit away? All this makes big differences to your choice of stuff.

If you do not think signal is going to be a problem (eg your phone is full signal in your room), a USB dongle is probably the most optimal starting solution. Preferably one that works fine on default Windows drivers, so you aren't installing unnecessary junk. One with a good cable to reposition as well.

If you think signal will be a bit weak, try the PCIe option. Reason is the antenna's are bigger and better, and if needs be they are replaceable with more suitable ones.

This little guy appears to mix the best of both worlds. However, I think you'd want a USB 3.0 extension wire according to the top comment...

I personally use a bridge. If you don't have reasonable network knowledge, don't go near one. Mine took a few hours over the course of a few weeks to fully stabilise and tweak. However, if you want a little challenge in the future, have a go. It'll be able to overcome most all issues people have with WiFi if you get it right.

Best no hassle solution. A powerline adapter and a pair of suitable length ethernet cables.

Sadly, I don't know what's good as I always hook my PC up with Ethernet. You could use a Gigabit Power Line Adapter, plug it in at your modem and PC and enjoy an Ethernet connection.

Powerline adapters are not the greatest and you never get the speeds advertised on the box, but it is a cheaper solution and can be used to connect two routers via powerline. You'll also have to play with settings on the upstairs router (whether you choose the EA6100 or the comcast modem/router) to turn it into a wifi access point or not to assign DHCP.
Best long term solution would be to run the CAT6 cable inside walls and make jacks. (Same playing with routers will have to happen, but you'll have done it already for the powerline.) It's not a major remodel and can be done with some simple HomeDepot tools/supplies. It would add to the value of your building.

I had a similar problem when I had 1 router (a very good one) at the front of the house near the door bell, and tried using it to work with the floodlight (in the back at the alleyway). I could get the floodlight and router to talk, but it would lose connection from time to time. So I bought another router just like it, configured it to be a wireless bridge, and put it in the garage. The router/wirelessbridge connects to the other main router using network over power lines such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6

So now, instead of 1 router at the front of the house trying to communicate with the floodlight all the way at the back of the house, the floodlight now has it's own router back there, and the two routers communicate over power lines.

Correct me if I'm wrong. Does the techicolor modem provided by time warner? Can you buy a new modem and have them register it on their end (one that is not time warner). Is the guest house on the same power line as the main house?

First of a few suggestions. If he is getting wifi signal from the techicolor modem but its terribly weak then I would get a better modem or a router for your current modem. If he simply only uses his laptop/computer then this USB should be find to get the signal https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00MX57AO4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485987291&sr=1-3&keywords=alfa+usb+wifi


IF, and I mean IF the guest house is on the same power line/circuit as the main house then I suggest getting a powerline adapter. Here is one of the best and within budget https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485987521&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

Check these out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/

That $70 pack does actually come with two adapters. If you're willing to drop down a model you can get a twin pack for $40 https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/

It's not as good as LAN, just so much easier and gets rid of most of the jitter WiFi suffers from. Just don't turn on the microwave...!

A powerline adapter is a system that allows you to transmit Ethernet through your homes in-wall power lines. For many, like myself, it is a great way to get ethernet from one end of a house to another to create a hardwired connection or add another wireless access point.

The reason it works better for some, is because it is reliant on the quality of your homes powerlines and potential interference in those lines.

Edit: To use, simply plug one receiver into an outlet near your modem, running a patch cable between the two. Plug the other receiver in a location you want ethernet, and run another patch cable from it according to your needs.

an example, and the one i personally use is
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=lp_1194444_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494641806&sr=1-2

I think you only really have two options if running cable is out of the question.

Wireless Network Extender

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX3700/dp/B00R92CL5E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1V6VFPS74O1AY&keywords=netgear+wifi+extender&qid=1564151119&s=gateway&sprefix=netgear%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3

This is what is called a wireless range extender, this on has a outgoing ethernet port on the bottom. Basically, what it will do, is connect to your wireless network, and send out the signal as a secondary wireless signal and/or a wired signal. I use these at my house, and they work great for my needs.

One con is that the connection speed will be slower than a direct connection, or somebody connecting to the originating access point.

Powerline Ethernet

Another thing you can try is powerline Ethernet, I have not used it myself, and do not understand the requirements as well as I would like to yet. I have heard good things about them, however. Basically what it does is use the existing power wires in the building to carry a ethernet signal.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=netgear+wireless+to+wired&qid=1564151336&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Looks like during peak hours your speed gets cut by a factor of 5, if you're in a place where your wifi is the only wifi listed (no neighbor networks) then there's probably nothing you can do about it because a uncluttered wifi space is actually fairly reliable at reasonable ranges.

If there are a bunch or even just 2 or 3 networks that aren't yours then try plugging in your console/PC with an ethernet cable. A cable connection to your router will help minimize lost data packets which are the cause of random bouts of stuttery lag and disconnects.

If you can't reach an ethernet cord to your console/pc then try something like this which allows you to use your electrical wiring in your house as a network. However the quality of connection you get with something like that is highly dependent on the age of the wiring in your house and distance it has to navigate through the house.

I figured so too. Some other redditor made a suggestion for this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6#customerReviews

Definitely a solution. Use one of these. Basically it uses your power lines to send an Ethernet signal across your home. One module is plugged into the room with modem. The other module in your room. Then you sync and connect by ethernet for maximum throughput! Good luck!

I have experienced this a bunch on WiFi (Xbox One X Scorpio User). It's concerning that you are still having these issues using an Ethernet connection, as that was my hopeful solution to this lingering issue. I was planning on using Ethernet power adapters to avoid having to run a cable through my house (link below for those interested).

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519053449&sr=1-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Powerline+1000&dpID=41dQv6CrHzL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You can try directly connecting to your wifi router using Ethernet Over Power adaptors. They basically turn the powerlines in your house into Ethernet cables.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483625252&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+over+power

I'm shocked! lol That's fantastic.

If there really is no good way to run the wire, you can also try using a powerline adapter instead. A decent 500Mbps adapter set should be pretty decent, especially if the 2 plugs it's connected to are on the same breaker. It will be far superior to the wireless issues you experienced, but may not be able to get you the full 95Mbps. Rent one from a local best buy to see if fixes the issue (30 day no hassle money back guarantee!)

EDIT - Turns out even the gigabit powerline adapters are a decent price now too:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483846046&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter