Must be, as they are literally $50

If you want New + quiet, this is similar to my setup:

Lenovo TS140 - Amazon $219

4GB of additional RAM - amazon $59.99

2x1TB Seagate $107.36

Perc 5/i w/ 256MB Cache - eBay $12.99

total: 399.34 + you have extra to get more drives and/or RAM.

ProxMox
I have 12GB of RAM + 4x1TB WD Blacks RE4s in a RAID10

I run Plex, a "Content Acquisition Server", a SAMBA file server and a 2012R2 VM to play with using 12GB of the RAM. 4 of which are going to the 2012R2 VM and I still have plenty of processing left. I would add another 4 GB of RAM and get another drive or two. :)

CPU

Mother Board

GPU

8GB of RAM

1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.

PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp

Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.

Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.

So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.

Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft

Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):

Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG

$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.

So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.

Does that "come close without cheating"?

Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:

AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.

PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.

PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free

PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.

You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.

Anyone who has suffered a failed hard drive will tell you its not worth it. there is a reason there are 100s of hardware/cloud backup companies making sick profits. Spend $20 more and get a new 1tb seagate with 64mb of cache

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/

Hey! I want to build a PC because the graphic card on my old one fried 9 months ago, but I have a low budget for a gaming PC. So I was wondering if I could re-use the power supply and the hard drive from my old PC (I bought it in 2013) in the new one? The power supply is a Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 630W CM and the hard drive is a Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST1000DM003. Thanks for your help!

You're worried about space? In the age of $53 1tb drives?

How much do you want to spend? Do you want to do any gaming on this PC?

You can build a better computer for cheaper, but the Apple Mac mini is pretty small and powerful enough for recording audio. It's $600.


You can build a better machine for a lot less, though:

• CPU: Intel i3-2100 - $125
  
• MoBo: ASRock H61DE/S3 - $76
  
• RAM: PNY Optima 1x4GB - $25
  
• PSU: SS-350ET 350W - $43
  
• Case: NZXT Gamma - $40
  
• Hard drive: 1TB 7.2k RPM SeaGate Barracuda - $100
  
• Disc burner: Sony DVD burner - $24
  
• TOTAL: $433
  
  The Intel i3-2100 CPU is just about the best bang for your buck.
  
  The ASRock H61DE/S3 motherboard has 5.1 surround sound, S/PDIF optical audio output, Gigabit ethernet, USB 2.0 (but not 3.0), DVI, VGA, and HDMI video output. If you don't need surround sound and optical audio output, we can get something about $20 cheaper here.
  
  SeaSonic power supplies are high quality. 350 Watts will be plenty for this build.
  
  The NZXT Gamma case is the best you can get for only $40.
  
  This build doesn't have a video card. Built-in graphics will work fine unless you will be doing 3D modeling or 3D gaming.

You're on your 3rd month of not having a computer because your hard drive died? Why don't you just replace it. Or ask a friend.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411472526&sr=1-3&keywords=hard+drive

It's $54. Shouldn't be that hard to scrounge up even if you don't make much.

/r/hardwareswap

Buying a new car isn't a good reason to not being able to afford a $70 HDD.

Edit:

Even amazon has a cheap HDD for $53...

I recently built a pink case computer with help from my cousin. It runs Minecraft wonderfully and played through the new Tomb raider with it's lovely hair graphics with no problem. I'll include a list of what I got for mine as it was a similar price range without the monitor/keyboard/processor. Some of the prices might have shifted a bit though but I hope it helps.

This is my pink case, it lights up and what not. It runs cold even without all the fans hooked up. There's also this slightly cheaper pink one, they're however the only two I found.

Power Supply

Hard Drive

Mother Board

Graphics Card

Windows 7

And my Ram

I already had a spare monitor so I didn't have to buy one and mouse/keyboard sets can be gotten fairly cheap pretty much anywhere now a days. I didn't include the processor because mines old and was given to me by my cousin. I used Newegg, Amazon, and a site called Outlet PC.

that 60 GB SSD is fine for just an OS. If you plan on also installing games onto that it will fill up QUICK. I'd recommend getting a 500GB or 1TB HDD as well.

Here is a link to a good cheap HDD

https://smile.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20

edit: It should be noted that amazon prices to vary day to day, but this one has been $50 or less for most of the past year.

You can get a seagate 1tb drive for $48

Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000DM003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_O3SFwbRGY0YWG

While the Caviar black does have more reliability for its cost, you can opt to get a 1TB Seagate Barracuda for about $25 less; I have one installed as my main program file directory and it's been working great so far. However, if you'll only choose between those 2, it depends whether you want more storage or to save $30. Also, the CB runs off a 6gb/s sata while the RE4 is 3gb/s, so the CB should be twice as fast at transfering data.

• You can get that processor for roughly $50 cheaper through Amazon.
  
  
• This RAM is still 8 Gb, is a single stick, and is much cheaper. (I'm currently running 2 sticks of it for a 16 Gb setup).
  
  
• This hard drive on Amazon will also save you more money. I'm also using it, and it works great (not as good as an SSD, but that's almost impossible). It doesn't come with a SATA cable, but your motherboard will. Even then, you can get extras on newegg for dirt cheap.

Storage is ridiculously cheap these days and there are many cloud based services that you could offload video files to in order to extend your maximum retention of the files.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

Four of these in a external enclosure (looking at 50-100 for one of those) and you can store a lot of video footage.

I tried my best, its a bit over 10,000

Case 1085

PSU 840

Storage 1000

Video Card 3900

Motherboard 1029

RAM 630

CPU 2300

That's expensive for an internal harddrive that's 320GB. You can get [1TB for that price.] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW)

CPU is probably around a 4790(K).

Your HDD

Really hard to determine the GPU from the given angles, that could range from a R7/R9 to a 9XX series card. By looking at the connector and the words it might be a R9 270X? Not really sure but I'm leaning towards the R9 series...

Stock Alienware CPU cooler, probably not worth too much.

Also I'm going to safely assume that's a 2x4 kit and not a 2x8 kit.

I might be completely wrong on everything but that's my go at it all.

Where are you buying that HDD for $90?? Amazon has a slightly faster one (7200 RPM) for $47.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

Here's a cheaper Seagate 1tb HDD from Amazon.

You can definitely find prices cheaper than the ones you have listed, but as a build it looks great.

1 TB Western Digital $58

1 TB Seagate $53

2 TB Seagate $83.50

3 TB Seagate $102.80

Any of those would be good choices. Like others mentioned, WD Blues only go up to 1 TB. WD blacks are pretty much over priced, so Seagate is the better choice above 1 TB. The Seagate 1TB drive actually performs a little better than the WD 1 TB. As for WD being more reliable than Seagate, I don't really know if that's true or not.

Things to consider: Cache size, RPM and platter density. Seems like 64MB cache, 7200 RPM and 1 TB platter size is the best bang for the buck right now. All those drives above share those specs.

IMHO I believe PC Part Picker is NOT the place you want to buy from. Yes, they have a user friendly interface, but that's it. Their parts are overpriced and you pay for shipping. Check these links for the exact same products through Amazon, and for most of the parts you get free shipping.

Case
Power Supply
HDD
RAM
CPU
Motherboard

WD Blue/Seagate Barracuda is the same price as the one you selected but better performing.

You can double your HDD space for $3

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/

tried to do a 980ti system but it ended up costing 1550 without the speakers.(+33)

If you want a 980ti in there you will have to drop the cpu to i5 or the ssd(i guess you need the 16 gigs)

https://www.amazon.fr/Intel-1150-INTEL-E3-1231V3-SR1R5/dp/B00K64I0S4/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462980991&sr=1-2&keywords=xeon

https://www.amazon.fr/ASRock-B85M-Carte-Intel-Socket/dp/B00MI8D2D4/ref=sr_1_31?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981228&sr=1-31

https://www.amazon.fr/HyperX-HX316C10FR-M%C3%A9moire-1600MHz-Rouge/dp/B00J8E90NW/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981338&sr=1-6 x2

https://www.amazon.fr/Seagate-ST1000DM003-Barracuda-Disque-interne/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=lp_430345031_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981103&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Disque-SanDisk-vitesse-lecture-SDSSDHII-240G-G25/dp/B00M8ABEIM/ref=sr_1_16?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462981299&sr=1-16

https://www.amazon.fr/GIGABYTE-nVIDIA-GTX970-DDR5-Overclock/dp/B00NZT6D68/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984185&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Seasonic-S12II-520W-Alimentation-520-BRONZE/dp/B00390P1NO/ref=sr_1_45?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462984132&sr=1-45

https://www.amazon.fr/ARCTIC-F12-Ventilateur-performance-boitier/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982595&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.fr/Thermaltake-Versa-Bo%C3%AEtier-tour-avec-ventilateur/dp/B00P9OES28/ref=sr_1_104?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462982417&sr=1-104

https://www.amazon.fr/Acer-GN246HLBbid-Predator-FullHD-1920/dp/B00IG0Z0HY/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462983738&sr=1-1&keywords=Acer+GN246HL

https://www.amazon.fr/Logitech-Speaker-System-Haut-parleurs-Subwoofer/dp/B003LNXT7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462984316&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+z313

final cost 1261,73 with all costs included

Good. Hard drive expansion is easier then. Buy a hard drive 2TB - 6TB depending on what you can afford. I like Western Digital but Seagate are fine too. Also make sure it comes with a SATA cable or buy one when you buy the drive.

Read the reviews on amazon to get the best idea of what to buy.

• Seagate
  
• WD Black
  
• WD Green This is what I use.
  
  Install the drive. Here is a link if you need it.
  
  Move steam games folder to the other drive. Here is an explanation.
  
  Good luck.
  

How much space do you need? You can get a 1TB for $55 on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1398393709&sr=1-2&keywords=1tb

I would say this build is possible if you personally build it, since companies will charge you extra to build it for you. However, I would say it would be significantly more difficult to acquire if aiming to buy any extra parts (Mouse, Keyboard, Monitor etc.) since those could cost up 100 pounds ontop of the rig build.
Firstly, you mentioned the GPU, which is a mid-high range Card, so getting it at £90 is extremely good value since it currently goes for £150 on most internet sites. This would conflict with your aims though, since there are noticeable issues with AMD Cards on the Metro Last Light game and other games no specifically built for AMD. With your pricing range, I would suggest going for that GPU however, since running on high specs with another graphics card at that price would be out of the question.
When it comes to the CPU, AMD would be cheaper but the structure of an AMD processor often results in short lasting lives. Therefore I would reccomend going with an Intel Processor, purely because the structure and effectiveness of the processor would be much more efficient. At your pricing, you can go for an i5 running at 3-3.2ghz depending on how much you are willing to put towards it.
I would reccomend going for this CPU - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-3-10GHz-Extended-Technology-Execute/dp/B00EF1G8XI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397229748&sr=8-1&keywords=4th+Generation+Intel%C2%AE+Core%E2%84%A2+i5+4440+3.1GHz+Socket+LGA1150
Motherboards are all general, just make sure its compatible with all the equpiment you're purchasing and the pricing can be as low as possible really, as long as you aren't planning on upgrading.
I would reccomend going for the Motherboard - http://www.amazon.co.uk/H81M-PLUS-Motherboard-Socket-Intel-Express/dp/B00EIG2O2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397229871&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+H81M-PLUS+Intel+H81+%28Socket+1150%29+Motherboard
Ram is standard, as you can get good quality ram at 1600mhz for roughly about 40-60 pounds at 8gb.
For the rig, I would suggest going for a coolermaster, as their cases have served me well in the past and generally have good air flow. Make sure its a mid tower, otherwise choose your pick! This could cost you £50.
Hard Drive - You haven't specified what kind of hard drive you want, but I would go for a 1TB if you choose this for gaming. You can get these for £50 too, so none too expensive
Suggested - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seagate-Barracuda-7200-14-3-5-inch-Desktop/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1397230093&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=Seagate+Barracuda+1TB+64MB+Cache+Hard+Drive+SATA+6GB%2Fs+8.5ms+7200rpm+-+OEM
These are the core components, and if you follow what I have suggested you can expect to be purchasing these at roughly £450, with £50 left over to spend on any extra's including optical drives, etc. This should serve you to be effective on most games to run at maximum graphical capability! Good luck

You can get a GTX 660 for $180. It's slower, but still pretty fast. A GTX 750 Ti won't work in this build because there are no nVidia Maxwell drivers for OS X yet.

Why two 500GB hard drives? Just to keep the two OSs separate? 1TB disks are $5 cheaper or put two partitions on a single 2TB disk.

Do you really need 16GB of RAM? Are you running lots of virtual machines? Recent versions of Mac OS X are much more memory-efficient than older versions and don't really need more than 8GB of RAM to be quick.

You also don't need more than a quality 500w power supply for an i5 + 760 system.

Hope that helps you out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z87M-D3H 1.0 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $90.16 @ Newegg
Memory | PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $63.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar 7K3000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $82.37 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 660 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $746.48
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-22 15:52 EDT-0400 |

OK, a couple things.

For your budget, we can bump up that graphics card a lot and tone down that processor a bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GDDR5-2GB-WINDFORCE-GV-N760OC-2GD-REV2-0/dp/B00DGM8B6O/?tag=logicaincrem-20

http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6350FRHKBOX-FX-6350-6-Core-Black/dp/B00CLBZAHY/?tag=logicaincrem-20

Also, that power supply does not have enough wattage. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10440897&PID=5961731&SID=0

And this is a better case, it has room for expansion and good airflow and dust filters. http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Gaming-Tower-Black-R5/dp/B007VER010/?tag=logicaincrem-20

Some suggestions for parts you have not chosen:

Do not get a CPU cooler unless you are overclocking
g, it is unneccesary.

This is a very nice mboo. http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GA-970A-UD3P-970-AM3-DDR3/dp/B00FRJL1RA/?tag=logicaincrem-20

For your budget, you should get 8 GB of RAM for max performance. http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-1600MHz-240-pin-KHX1600C10D3B1-8G/dp/B007TTEHUY/?tag=logicaincrem-20

Here is a 1 TB HDD http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW?tag=logicaincrem-20

And here is a 128 GB SSD http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Solid-SDSSDHP-128G-G25/dp/B0093HMKVI/?tag=logicaincrem-20

The drive is full of 1 star reviews on Amazon. Next time check for something of a higher quality, Seagate have been criticized several times for their crappy reliability. WD Blue's have higher reviews and are much more reliable.

I already posted my GPU and Motherboard (which has no onboard video btw), here is the rest of my build:
monitor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058UUR6E/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
processor http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SRQ214/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i03
ram http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003N8GVUY/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i02
power http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUK5C6/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i00
HD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRNW/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i01

and for some reason I also tried installing my old HD with windows 7 to no avail

How this deal better than this product and price?

The prices on amazon here total at 590€ (w/o windows, which I already have), using this instead of the SSHD.

Such as these:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454130155&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=seagate+1+tb&dpPl=1&dpID=41-VRmCClfL&ref=plSrch



http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088PUEPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1454130188&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=western+digital+1+tb&dpPl=1&dpID=51fbLQLVJFL&ref=plSrch

I ended up buying a 1 TB from Amazon Figured I could take a risk/gamble on it.

• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FC3YJ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009FC3YJ8&linkCode=as2&tag=pcbuonabu-20&linkId=5VYBYKSKWWC56IM7-**motherboard**
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009O7YORK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009O7YORK&linkCode=as2&tag=pcbuonabu-20&linkId=PIQGGTOQD6ERP2ZI-**processor**
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZGZFGS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AZGZFGS&linkCode=as2&tag=pcbuonabu-20&linkId=KLYO22UGOQ2VKBMR-**ram card**
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRNW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005T3GRNW&linkCode=as2&tag=pcbuonabu-20&linkId=WNHZDTM33Q4DAP3W-**hard drive**
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGHKK7M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DGHKK7M&linkCode=as2&tag=pcbuonabu-20&linkId=JHFACKH566NMZG25-**power supply**
  
  None of the other troubleshooting worked

I just got my build up and running with windows installed on my SSD, but my Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000DM003) isn't showing up. When I go to the device manager it shows up under disk drives. Do I need a driver for it? I don't understand why it's not showing up as the D:\ drive for example.

I checked and all the connections are solid inside the case.

Seagate Barracuda 1 TB HDD
it was purchased on March 27, 2014.
CDI.

Hey there, i built my pc end of 2013 with the following parts. Im looking to sell it now and am curious what kind of price to ask.

Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007SZ0EOW/ref=ox_ya_os_product[1] )
gygabtye gtx 670 OC 2GB (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125423[2] )
Seagate Barracuda 7200 1 TB 3.5-Inch Hard Drive (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005T3GRNW/ref=ox_ya_os_product[3] )
Corsair Vengeance 8gb Ram (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145345[4] )
Asus 24x dvd burner (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204[5] )
asus VE247H 23.6" monitor (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236112[6] )
asrock z77 extreme4 (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293[7] )
windows 7 home premium 64 bit (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986[8] )
Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107[9] )
Rosewill HIVE Series HIVE-750 750W 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182133[10] )
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099[11] )

any suggestions on a price to sell for? Everything is in good condition.

Seagate 1Tb. Amazon replaced it after the first failure.

Yeah, I'm planning on an SSD when I have the money. For now, I picked up one of these since the computer was running unusually slow. It helped a great deal.

Amazon has the:

Seagate Barracuda 7200 1 TB 7200RPM SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive ST1000DM003

for $99. Might be a good alternative to the western digital.

GPU -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDG3PRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

CPU -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2LIECO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

MoBo -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D1A5OR0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

RAM -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8E92R6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HDD -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRNW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

CASE & PSU -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCGPGD6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Greetings! I purchased a Seagate Barracuda Bare Drive and I'm not sure if I need to buy cables to connect it to the PC. Thanks!

Link for 1TB $50

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1406883748&sr=8-7


Link for 2TB $80


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T3GRN2?vs=1

Just built my first PC :)

I'm noticing that my [harddrive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is making a light scratching noise while running. It's pretty quiet and it still works so is this actually normal or is the drive defective, would this be covered by my warranty?

Good thing you mentioned that specific model, because it's the one I have. All good in the beginning, now it makes strange noises and is very slow. I can't suggest you a book, but i can link you to the amazon page of that HDD. Here you go. Would you get that HDD? I know I wouldn't.

Because I'm on a budget, would this be a good choice; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=pcpapi-20

Here you go. Significantly cheaper by about $175 from your original build, and $150 from the above build.

Swapped the low end SSD + 1TB HDD for a 240GB SSD instead. If you really need the HDD storage I'd recommend adding on this 1TB HDD

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Asus H81M-D PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $46.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $55.99 @ Newegg
Storage | OCZ ARC 100 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | HIS Radeon R9 290 4GB IceQ X² Video Card | $252.98 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT Source 220 ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Rosewill 500W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $14.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) | $92.00 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $862.39
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $842.39
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-06 22:59 EST-0500 |

Something like This would work. You would need a separate computer (with windows) to clone the hard drive.

And now that I search for those drives it seems like using 8GB of bcache per drive. Interesting.

Going by 1TB drives, 3 of these would be $300. 3 of their non hybrid drives would be $210.

With that $90 difference, it looks like I have my pick of 120-128GB SSDs, of which I could portion out up to 40GB of bcache per drive (though I would probably use less and store boot/bins there).

It seems like a nice idea for someone buying a single drive, and I notice that many of the hybrids are 2.5" for laptops where one can't easily RAID multiple drives. However, the price differences don't seem to scale well.

$1500 budget. minecraft, might buy h1, csgo, overwatch, and league of legends

don't worry about monitor, keyboard or mouse.

i also already have my list done but if you'd like to tweak some things that'd be better or more price reliable go ahead

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E8ZLK/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474030959&sr=1-2&keywords=4gb%2Bof%2Bram&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A2253866011%2Cp_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A677427011&th=1
$25 8GB Ram

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474031151&sr=1-2&keywords=1+tb+internal+hard+drive
$50 1TB Hard-Drive

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Unlocked-Skylake-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475917609&sr=8-1&keywords=i7-6700K
$300 CPU

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-1060-WINDFORCE-GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD/dp/B01KCWZ2EO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475918147&sr=1-1&keywords=geforce%2Bgtx%2B1060&th=1
$300 Graphics Card

For graphics cards comparison, take a look at this article. You can gauge for yourself how much you want out of your graphics card, and how much you want to put in now.

At least as far as gaming goes though, you will notice the most significant increase in performance with an extra few dollars going to your GFX card as opposed to RAM or the Mobo.

Again, consider whether you need the optical drive. If you have another device with an optical drive (your laptop), you can use that to burn an iso to a usb if you are installing software.

If you are a student and have access to an ethernet connection, consider skipping the wireless network card.

Additional savings (possibly), a used 1TB HDD from amazon: link

Good Luck!

A few things

• Do you really need a sound card?
  
• You should probably get some better Thermal Paste.
  
• Is 64 GB enough? I would rather go with a 1 TB 7200-RPM drive
  
  Else what, it looks really solid
  EDIT: Raidmax PSU. No. Just don't. No.
  

Okay I'm not sure If I'm getting this correct but how will I connect my 3.5 inch desktop HDD with the Pi Zero W?

I searched about it a little and there seems to be an usb to SATA adapter cable but it's pretty expensive IMO, around US$10.

Will it work? Or is there any other way to connect the desktop hdd to the Pi Zero W.

This is my drive.

If it will really be a mess I'm thinking of buying a new 128gb microSD card and use that instead of desktop HDD for torrenting.

Notice: I was doing a rough price estimate for you on what I could get where I live. Prices listed are for example and my not be available in your location. I am not recommending any of these parts this is a quick and dirty price / parts example.


($50) Case: Same as listed in OP

($90) Motherboard: Same as listed in OP

($199) CPU: Same as listed in OP

($40) Heat Sink: Same as listed in OP

($80) SSD: Same as listed in OP

($99) OS Windows 10 Home: Same as listed in OP

($60) Power Supply 500W: Not listed in OP

($65) HDD 2TB: 2x that of OP ($13 upgrade)

($45) Blu-Ray drive: OP was DVD drive (about $25 upgrade)

($80) 16GB DDR4: Equivalent Size, Speed and Spec of OP not sure on Manufacturer

($350) GPU EVGA 4GB GTX 970: 2x video memory and faster clock than OP (GTX 960 4GB is about $230 and a GTX 960 2GB $200)

($8) Heat Sink Compound

($8) Sata Cables (drives were bare bones)

Total Cost as listed: $1174 or 1110 Euro
Total Cost Closest to OP PC (no upgrades): $986 or 932 Euro

The closest thing I could come to the exact build with 20 minutes searching yielded a PC that was only 157 Euro less than that of the OP PC. If you are more comfortable with buying a prebuilt it is not actually that bad of price and components.
Would it be able to play SC @ 4k with good fps probably not. Will it handle the game on medium to good settings at 1080 yes. Keep in mind that the current game is still not optimized and the player count in a map is also low, so we could see gains or losses in performance.

few edits: simple format changes
edit 2 side note: Nvidia Pascal is said to be around the corner with 10%+ gains. I am waiting myself to see what it offers before upgrading.

I recommend 1-2TB for the scratch drive. That way you have enough space to have several projects going at once. Something like this Seagate 2TB drive for $109.99 (US) would be great.

I usually recommend this drive.

I'd put a modular power supply in there. It's worth the extra expense. You can make room in the budget by getting an OCZ Octane SSD instead, a Barracuda, a Corsair A50, and possibly a HAF 912.

LOL, no. You can buy a 1 terabyte HDD on Amazon for $68. Believe me, you alone can fill it easily in maximum a few weeks if you keep downloading movies, games, music and such (via Steam, Netflix, torrent sites, whatever). A big multimedia company like HBO has likely tens of thousands of TB data on their servers and data storage devices (or even more). HD / QHD videos and other media files take up a lot of storage space.... ☺

Just 1 episode of GOT is probably much more than 4 - 8 GB uncompressed (many video MKV files are around this), and it's just the final cut. However the studios usually storage all the raw materials too that they used during production for a long time.

Also, from the below article: "The hackers claimed to have stolen 1.5 terabytes of data from the company, which they plan to keep releasing in future batches."

https://www.engadget.com/2017/08/02/hbo-data-breach-thousands-internal-docs/

And a cheap HDD:
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

--------------

*edit: clarification

Also, an interesting data related article: http://www.cisco.com/c/en/us/solutions/collateral/service-provider/visual-networking-index-vni/vni-hyperconnectivity-wp.html

"Annual global IP traffic will reach 3.3 ZB per year by 2021, or 278 exabytes (EB) per month. In 2016, the annual run rate for global IP traffic was 1.2 ZB per year, or 96 EB per month. Global IP traffic will increase nearly threefold over the next 5 years. Overall, IP traffic will grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 24 percent from 2016 to 2021. Monthly IP traffic will reach 35 GB per capita by 2021, up from 13 GB per capita in 2016."

The amazon reviews of that drive are pretty bad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=pcpapi-20

ah i see i misread a little bit b/c I thought you had a 670/680 already lol, sorry about that,

Yea I suggest you upgrade your GPU but unless you have an old HDD you shouldn't really NEED an ssd for recording I don't know what your HDD speeds are but with more modern HDD's its not that big of a problem I have no problem recording video using OBS using a seagate barracuda
With the hardware recording option youll still have to store it on a hard drive but it wont put stress on your graphics card or processor as much while recording.

However if you are looking at upgrading your GPU anyway id suggest upgrading to a gtx770 and taking advantage of shadowplay when it is released.

edit:
the 770 is essentially a 680 but you can get a 770 with 4gb of vram which is good for higher resolutions/ more monitors

I got [this] (http://www.ncix.com/detail/thermaltake-tr2-600w-cable-management-8e-66851-1356.htm) one. No particular reason. probably not the soundest decision.

Lastly, I'm having a hard time deciding on the Storage. HDD or SSD.

I've had to use amazon for some parts and the one you suggested is double the price on amazon.ca. I found a decent one, but its HDD, and I've been hearing good things about SSD. Whats your say?

[here] (http://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422308700&sr=8-1&keywords=Seagate+Barracuda+1TB+3.5%22+7200RPM+Internal+Hard+Drive) is there HDD i was referring to.

It would only cost $110 for another 1 TB Drive and a 120gb [SSD](http://www.amazon.com /s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-
keywords=120gb+ssd). That WD drive costs 200 or 180 with a coupon code.

EDIT: /u/sdneidich told me they're only 150 on amazon. Also, OP put that it's a laptop in the post. I feel dumb because a laptop is the only way this drive makes sense.

I'm fond of Western Digital Green drives for storage purposes.

They're slow, only 5400RPM, but they power on when needed.

http://www.amazon.com/WD-Green-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B008YAHW6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417454522&sr=8-1&keywords=Western+Digital+Green

Another poster mentions a Seagate that would also be a good option. That particular drive mentioned has a 7200RPM speed. http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417454633&sr=8-1&keywords=Seagate+Barracuda

I've got a bit of a bias toward the WD drive though. I've used WD drives in my personal builds and they haven't given me an issue yet. Though, I also recently put 8 2tb Seagate NAS (they were cheaper than RED drives at the time) drives into my file server and, knock on wood, no issues there either. 8 drives, all passing stress tests, 0 DOA...that's noteworthy!

would it work to replace all of the ram for something more powerful or should i just buy one more of what's already there? is this ram and hard drive compatible with the pc?

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416113080&sr=8-1&keywords=seagate+1tb+hard+drive&pebp=1416113080504

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AFOK2U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VBI64L0E2QBN

>Would getting a higher RPM HDD really be worth it for gaming?

If this matters to you, upgrade to the 256 GB model of that SSD. You'll see much more significant differences that way.

>Need help in choosing a cheap'ish case

There's a good deal on the Corsair 200R right now that brings it down to $39.99 over here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139018

>any area where I can possibly save money or get a better alternative?

Instead of one giant 2TB drive at $180, buy two 1TB drives for $60 each here:

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

Also, are you really planning on overclocking? Because you're paying a hefty premium for that in both the CPU and the motherboard, which is money that you can save.

Your choice of RAM is overpriced. Look around on Amazon and Newegg for better deals.

Consider a microATX motherboard, they're usually half the price and no less powerful. The main difference is they have fewer PCI slots, but if you're only getting one video card, it won't matter to you.

That console is pretty low end to be honest. The problems are the RAM (only 4GB), and the graphics for this says "Custom Nvidia Maxwell GTX CPU". I would go custom build, but you don't want to :(. There are very few good cheap prebuilt PC's

This is an ok prebuilt PC

Try pcpartpicker, ask on /r/buildapc. Custom built are really the way to go nowadays :).

Check this out:

GPU

CPU

RAM

HDD

CASE

PSU

It's a pretty decent build. Not great, but inside your price range. I know it's definitely better than that console.

If you want a decent gaming PC, check out the subreddit buildapc.

Yeah... this is still overpriced. In-fact I would wager competitors likely even give better prices for similar builds.

Take for example the "gamer's build" http://www.performancetoprice.com/#!products/vx292/!/The-Gamers-Build/p/61869357/category=17835001

A $1,000 price tag and lets break down the hardware and the prices piece by piece.

Core i5 4590 which can be found for $179 here

The stock cooler in a "gamer's build" is just pathetic. Since it comes with the CPU naturally no price needed to be added.

1TB Seagate Barracuda $50 [here]http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457233830&sr=8-1&keywords=1TB+Seagate+Barracuda)

Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB which doesn't specify if its a single or double to run in dual channel. I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and say it is running in dual channel. $30
here

EVGA 500W Bronze, no idea on what specific model. Anyhow PSU price $45 here

On Board LAN Network 10/100 part is where things get fishy. The claimed mobo they list seems to have gigabit adapter which can handle 10/100/1000. So either they have no idea what they are even selling, are lying of the quality for you to be tempted to upgrade to their equally capable network adapter for $40 more.
My guess is on the latter.

The motherboard when searching it up seems I either find the "pro" or the "m" version since the network adapter is a lie I can't use that as a resource so I am going to assume they are using the smaller mobo. $64 here

A unnamed CD-ROM drive which I'm not even sure if this is correct. It makes no sense to have a CD-ROM drive and not at-least a DVD-ROM. Even then I have to question why not a DVD burner? Anyways lets just assume its a decent DVD burner so $20 max.


MSI GeForce GTX 970 now this gets even more confusing as we have no idea what version of this MSI 970 to expect. At-least this makes sense for a gaming PC however. $315 here

The ugly Thermaltake Versa H22 which doesn't do a gaming PC any justice. $44 here

And lastly Windows 10 what version? Who knows? They don't care to share. Which likely means its the home version. $80 https://www.redboxsoftware.com/microsoft-windows-10-home-edition-64-bit?gclid=CjwKEAiApOq2BRDoo8SVjZHV7TkSJABLe2iDUHnjPPHssOpCBsyyIkh6sUNrbfjhUW8tbbsoT_d9fhoCYDfw_wcB Though you can find it for cheaper for purely digital versions.

So in total $827. Now understandably they both need to cover the costs to assemble and profit but does that sound like $173 worth of work to you? It certainly doesn't to me. Even worse is the fact that if someone waits for sales they could easily shave a large part of the prices off. For example I've seen the 4590 at about $125 before. Meaning the entire build likely can shave hundreds off the price in the end.

Your prices may not be as outrageous as some places but this still doesn't make pre-built systems worth it.

7200 RPM. Here is the exact HDD on Amazon

If you have even the slightest inkling that you might use the extra storage space, you should consider getting a 1 TB hard drive. This one is only about $5 more than the one you have picked out.

My Internal HDD (Seagate 1TB) I have for storage that runs secondarily to my SSD that has my OS on has just died and I've been unable to recover anything. Is there anything I need to be aware of when replacing it? I'm currently looking at: WD Blue 1TB

I would recommend forcing an SSD if one is affordable then add a HDD for storage; a build that was generated for $650 that could have easily included an SSD is:

|Part type|Name|URL|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|motherboard|Gigabyte B450M DS3H |https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145083|66.99|
|processor|AMD Ryzen 5 1600|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B06XNRQHG4/?tag=envybits-20|118.99|
|memory|Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB 3200MHz CL16|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07MNJSRYY/?tag=envybits-20|49.95|
|video_card|Sapphire Radeon Vega 56 Pulse|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B07BGZNTQJ/?tag=envybits-20|299.99|
|drive|Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD|https://www.amazon.com/-/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=envybits-20|41.99|
|power_supply|SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze S12II|https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096|59.99|
|total|-|-|637.90|

Other than that it looks okay to me.

You might consider getting a smaller SSD (this one is $34 right now https://www.newegg.com/crucial-mx500-250gb/p/N82E16820156176) and then getting a 1 TB HDD (this one's $39 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=pcpapi-20). Looks pretty good though.

2200 build list
CPU- http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134248&sr=1-1&keywords=i7+6700k
Price- $410

\Motherboard- http://www.amazon.com/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO-ALPHA-Motherboards/dp/B017RI8UYA/ref=sr_1_19?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134314&sr=1-19&keywords=lga+1151+motherboard
Price- $300

PSU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0750-XR/dp/B00K85X2A2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138651&sr=1-4&keywords=Psu&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Price- $90

GPU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Cooling-Graphics-06G-P4-1996-KR/dp/B00Z0UX8TA/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138400&sr=1-5&keywords=gtx+980+ti
Price- $700

250 GB SSD- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138522&sr=1-1&keywords=SSd
Price- $90

500gb M.2 SSd- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-3-5-Inch-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIW1XG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138908&sr=1-5&keywords=m.2+ssd
Price- $160

You can use either option they are both good but the M.2 is my recomendation

RAM- http://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-TridentZ-PC4-24000-Platform-F4-3000C15D-16GTZ/dp/B017QI1V74/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138836&sr=1-9&keywords=ddr4+3000
Price- $120

CPU Cooler- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138978&sr=1-8&keywords=cpu+cooler
Price- $110

3 TB HDD- http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458139072&sr=1-2&keywords=hdd
Price- $90

My favorite gaming keyboard but its up to you. It doesn’t have any fancy side buttons just a great feel and excellent build quality- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00CD1FC6G
Price- $150

total $2130 without the case or windows or optical drive

let me know where it is you would like to go fro here? Is there anything you want to add or take out we can revise this build a couple of times

Nice! :D I used Logical Increments for help, and ended up with the following:

• Case: Cooler Master Trooper (Rev. 2)
  
• Motherboard: ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING
  
• CPU: Intel Boxed Core I7-6700K 4.00 GHz 8M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151 BX80662I76700K
  
• Power supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 P2 80+ PLATINUM, 750W
  
• Heatsink: Noctua CPU Cooler [NH-U12S]
  
• RAM:G.SKILL 16GB
  
• Graphics: Gigabyte AMD 4096 Bit 4GB HBM PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card
  
• SSD: SanDisk Extreme PRO 240GB
  
• HDD: Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD

Would this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cgckzbS8TMTB6 be ok with this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N7MLWX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_asckzbS8HDHRS ?

Just wondering because of a tight budget and I'm clueless and just need to know if it's necessary to upgrade the RAM, thanks :)

50 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405571177&sr=8-2&keywords=1tb

60 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405571177&sr=8-1&keywords=1tb

My advice is to always go WD over Seagate, but little difference between them

I intend to use it primarily for video editing. I'll definitely end up with Final Cut X (it's what we use at work), but I'd like to learn the Adobe Suite for personal projects.

I'm completely new to building so any feedback I can get is gratefully accepted. I expect that I'm underpowered in key areas or overpowered in others, and may even have overlooked compatibility. Here's the build I'm looking at:

[CPU]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPRWB9G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I26KB1GS72W5JH)

Motherboard

[Memory]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LTBJFW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I27ZF0ELS7WTUI&psc=1)

[Video Card]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDG3IDO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I1WMAY7HXBLUUO)

[Power Supply]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ALYOPSS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I385MZ6CQFP5TP&psc=1)

[Boot Drive]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I2XFXVCKJXF2JH&psc=1)

[Internal Storage]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1RORLKAP2BWSL&coliid=I1B3EQ0706J5GL&psc=1)

check this place out!

after you find something within your budget on this subbredit, come back and ask what you can make better! Also so you don't have to put more money towards some of the pieces that are harder to replace (like the motherboard, since you literally will have to take everything off to upgrade this), i suggest a better motherboard within the price you can afford, a good one can run from $90 to about $150 or so.

Last thing i forgot to mention is that some of the parts that are referred can also be switched out with an equivalent in performance and stuff and sometimes cheaper. like the wesgate hdd in the first build can be switched with a seagate

That's less than minimum wage... Especially since I was rounding down. Assuming you could efficiently use each disc (archive then split into 4.7GB pieces) you'd need 213 DVDs for 1TB of data. At 5 minutes each, that's 17 hours and 45 minutes. So, assuming you sat there ready to swap discs every 5 minutes, you sit there for an entire day (unless you don't sleep). If that's $100 worth of work, you just worked for $5.63. Of course, that's only the first time you have to restore. Writing to the disc is going to be slower. If you have to do an initial backup of 1TB, it'd take ever longer plus the cost of 213 DVDs. Here's 200 Memorex (better go with a good brand because DVDs degrade over time) [on sale for $50.] (http://smile.amazon.com/Memorex-DVD-R-4-7GB-Multipack-Spindles/dp/B00KONGBME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409148190&sr=1-1&keywords=200+DVD) So really, looks like it's not all that much cheaper than using a HDD. [Here's the first result for a 1TB drive] (http://smile.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409148320&sr=1-1&keywords=1TB+HDD) on Amazon. $55.

DVDs don't last forever. You better be careful to backup in such a way that losing one DVD doesn't ruin your entire backup. All to save $5.

I have one more question.

What's the difference between this and this?

They look identical besides the SATA part. The amazon one is just SATA and the outletpc one is SATA 3.

Is this a big deal?

This r9 280 is cheaper than that r9 270x. You can use the labor day promotion to get an extra $15 off.

Cheaper ram with promo code

Cheaper Hard Drive.

stuck between these two.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJRS6FU/?tag=pcpapi-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=pcpapi-20

I was $7 off on the HDD, although they typically go on sale around $40 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_k.Xtxb1PWHY9M
750ti's on hardwareswap go for around $100 so I'll be generous and say $115, and the motherboard is $100 max. Even adding the extra $122 from these adjustments makes it $557.
I'm not shitting on your price or anything but you said yourself that it isn't selling so I'm just valuing your parts at what they're actually worth so you could get a quicker sale

Edit: The PSU goes for $39 brand new in box

LINKS FOR EVERYTHING

2 Way SLI - 780 Ti Superclocked edition

Intel i7 3820 3.6GHz

Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performace Liquid CPU Cooler H100i

2 packs of Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) Memory

Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard

Samsung 840 EVo 250GB SSD

Beats Pro Over-Ear

Skullcandy Aviator Headphones

Male White Fiberglass Mannequin Head

Oculus Rift Development Kit 2

Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Desk Clamp

Seagate 1TB Barracuda

Seagate 3TB Barracude

Corsaie Air Series SP120mm Quiet Edition

Rosewill 1000Watt Bronze Certified PSU

NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Edition

Three Acer H236HLbid 23" LCD IPS monitors

Wallart USA Panorama New York

Blue Snowball Microphone

Flexible Gooseneck Microphone Holder

Microphone table clamp

Philips Fidelio DS3000 Speaker Dock

Razer Lycosa Mirror special Edition

Razer Abyssus Optical PC Gaming Mouse

Razer MAnticor Aluminum Gaming Mouse Mat

HP G62-219WM 15.6" Laptop (Pretty Old and outdated)

Xbox one controller

IKEA Tables (both 73" and 96" are used)
IKEA Table legs (8 used)

Sleeved cables used

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XJ4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heh.. boob ^

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036ORCJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am not familiar with the Team Vulcan RAM listed, but I would suggest a CAS latency of 8 for DDR3-1600. I also would suggest scrapping the Hybrid drive for a SSD, such as the Samsung 840 EVO 250GB with a storage drive like Seagate Barracuda 1TB.

What kind of display are you using, what resolution do you plan on playing at? Are you determined to get the Windforce model? There are options just as good for $100 less, or in most cases a 970 is the better buy which could save you even more...

You definitely will not need a 750W PSU, a 500W will certainly suffice.

Is there a particular reason as to why you need 32 gigabytes of ram?

Also the Seagate Surveillance HDD is a bit of an odd pick.
This Seagate 1TB is cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1462893668&sr=1-1&keywords=seagate+1TB

Also I'd replace the Corsair CX power supply with something more better such as the EVGA GQ:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-210gq0650

You may want to get a CPU cooler with that CPU if you're planning to overclock the CPU.

My formatting is really bad, so I apologize ahead of time. This is what I've done research on and saved so far.


Monitor- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160240&ignorebbr=1


CPU- (Dual core) http://www.amazon.com/Intel-G3258-Pentium-Processor-BX80646G3258/dp/B00KPRWAZQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357130&sr=1-1&keywords=g3258&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=11a30b5f30fd79c6d6919bca3aa14c1f


Ram- (16 gigs ram) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148545&cm_re=Crucial_Ballistix_Sport-_-20-148-545-_-Product


Motherboard- (Asus) http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-H81M--MicroATX-DDR3-Motherboards/dp/B00ESETQOK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357170&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+h81m-a&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=60be0ea7c8506bbb9c1dee32c151c0ac


Hard drive - (1 tb) http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357232&sr=1-1&keywords=seagate+1tb&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=87e7d08908036af45a70d409a29a6801


Video Card- http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814500349&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-TechSource%20Official-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=7899552&SID=


(other option) http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Cooling-Graphics-02G-P4-2958-KR/dp/B013WQC9U2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357501&sr=1-2&keywords=gtx+950&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=cc7e6d2ede49ec0d489f64252ca2ef13


Keyboard - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1KT2FA2910


Case - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-MicroATX-Tower-Computer-FBM-01/dp/B005LIDU5S/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357279&sr=1-1&keywords=rosewill+fbm-01&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=e7076f52a8f3cfa59e8f7ecf39eb20f6


Power Supply - http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Continuous-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1455357296&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+500w&linkCode=sl1&tag=techsource02-20&linkId=0c53362e4ccfc9d77d7c8c0203dd9f38

Thanks for the help.

Ya, im using a samsung S24D590L which is 1080. Do you have any recommendations for a 1440p monitor?

After checking tom's hardware PSU tier list, I did a search for something available in China for around the same price. I found the Season G-650, tier 2 on the above list, for only about 15$ dollars more.

I also upgraded to the 6600k

I also do have a version of windows 8 on my old comp but its water damaged and won't start. I might still have the box back in the states, but I'm not certain on that.

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | [Intel Boxed Core I5-6600k 3.50 Ghz ] (https://www.amazon.cn/Intel-Boxed-Core-I5-6600K-3-50-GHz-6-M-Processor-Cache-6-for-LGA-1151/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463916601&sr=8-1&keywords=Intel+Core+i5-6600K) |￥1,613.53 @ AmazonCN
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | ￥194.22 @ AmazonCN
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro Motherboard | ￥649 @ NeweggCN
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | ￥414.86@ AmazonCN
Storage | SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250G" Solid State Drive | ￥579 @ Tmall
Storage | Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA | ￥329.24@ AmazonCN
Video Card | XFX R9-390X-8256 | ￥2831.96 @ Tmall
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 200R | ￥428.03 @ AmazonCN
Power Supply | Seasonic G-650W | ￥609.02@ AmazonCN
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) | ￥720 @ Microsoft Online

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | [Intel Boxed Core I5-6600k 3.50 Ghz ] (https://www.amazon.cn/Intel-Boxed-Core-I5-6600K-3-50-GHz-6-M-Processor-Cache-6-for-LGA-1151/dp/B012M8M7TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463916601&sr=8-1&keywords=Intel+Core+i5-6600K) |￥1,613.53 @ AmazonCN
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | ￥194.22 @ AmazonCN
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170M-D3H Micro Motherboard | ￥649 @ NeweggCN
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | ￥414.86@ AmazonCN
Storage | SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250G" Solid State Drive | ￥579 @ Tmall
Storage | Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD SATA | ￥329.24@ AmazonCN
Video Card | XFX R9-390X-8256 | ￥2831.96 @ Tmall
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 200R | ￥428.03 @ AmazonCN
Power Supply | Seasonic G-650W | ￥609.02@ AmazonCN
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) | ￥720 @ Microsoft Online
| Total | ￥8368.86 = $ 1278.48

I found one on amazon, but it is $69 not $60. Link to the drive. That price increase is probably due to the doubled cache size. Your case has some bad reviews about airflow and size, but you'll have to decide whether to believe them or not. Otherwise it looks like a good build.

This HDD is twice the size for less money

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=pcpapi-20

yeah, you're better off with newer memory.

you have a 2x2x1x1 setup. I can fit in a dual channel 8GB or 16GB if you desire :]

also I found a 1TB for 49 bucks on amazon just incase! http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396644233&sr=8-1&keywords=baracuda+1tb

The only thing I would point out is that you are just using a 120GB SSD for your primary storage it may fill up quickly so I would just throw this 1TB hard drive that's pretty cheap compared to the SSD- (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T3GRNW/?tag=extension-kb-20)

Edit: Just another point, Windows 8.1 (64 bit) takes 20GB of space just for perspective.

The least expensive new 1TB drive that I could find was this Seagate Barracuda for $55.

e. http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395853057&sr=8-1&keywords=Seagate+7200+1tb

Ok thanks man you’ve been a really great help, really appreciate it. Just one more question (sorry!); The Acronis information on the SanDisk website says: “you will need at least one WD branded or SanDisk branded HDD or SSD as source drive or destination drive for this program to perform cloning.”

My HDD is a bog-standard Seagate ST1000DM003 which isn’t a WD or SanDisk branded source drive. Is it necessary to have a WD or a SanDISK HDD/source drive, or is it just the SSD which needs to be SanDisk branded?

I get that SanDisk is a WD brand, so you’d expect it to work, however about 3 or 4 reviews on Amazon claim that the Acronis cloning software doesn’t work, and required them to pay $30 for the full Acronis version, rather than the WD Edition. Maybe it will be best to go for the intel SSD or even another brand.

Actually should I get this it has about 7200rpm

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

You could probably get a 1 Tb HDD and a 120 Gb SDD for the same price as the 250 Gb SSD if you don't mind having two hard drives.

Install your OS on the SSD and the games/apps you use most; and on the HDD photos, films, ebooks, word files, games with not a lot of load times...

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW?tag=logicaincrem-20

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-2-5-Inch-Solid-SDSSDHP-128G-G25/dp/B0093HMKVI/?tag=logicaincrem-20

everywhere http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1408395899&sr=1-2&keywords=1+tb+hard+drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236070&cm_re=1_tb_hard_drive-_-22-236-070-_-Product
or in local stores

The PNY XLR8 120 GB and 240 GB aren't bad deals. The 1 TB Seagate Barracuda's isn't bad either.

i heard these are silent is this possible or yust a selling trick? https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW

This actually looks pretty good. I have an HTPC with about the same specs (although mine has a lower powered video card), and It runs great. A 1 TB hard drive is just a few dollars more, if you can stretch your budget, I would highly recommend it.

http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Barracuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/

I would recommend a AMD A8-6600K. It is currently on sale, so it is even $20 LESS then what you have, and it is miles better(well, unless you just really want 6 cores). Also, for clarification, it is actually a 3.9ghz, the 4.2 is like.. turbo speed or something.

This means you need to get a FM2 compatible motherboard. As for advice for looking at specifics of motherboards, the main points are:

• Memory slots. As far as I know, all memory cards need to be the same. So if you are going to add memory, it needs to be the same kind. With 2 slots and your 8gb stick, you would only be able to get one more 8gb stick, unless you sold it and got better memory. With 4 slots, you could get 2x4gb sticks, and have room for buying one 4gb stick at a time for upgrades.
  
• Stuff like special audio ports or USB 3.0 capabilities.
  
• Room/arrangement of components. You want to make sure your graphics card isn't going to be sitting in the way of anything else. For a lot of smaller motherboards, a graphics card is going to be sitting right ontop of where you would plug a wireless network card, for instance. My friend also had to get "right angle" sata cables just because the graphics card was sitting ON TOP of the sata connections.
  
  EDIT: Didn't even notice. Why do you have a 500gb HD for $50? You could get a 1TB for $60.