Reddit reviews ORICO Aluminum 5.25 inch to 2.5 or 3.5 Inch Internal Hard Disk Drive Mounting Kit with Screws and Shock Absorption Rubber Washer- Black

So I know this thread is about a month old, but I have a Shuttle SH67H3 and I think it’s a beast, so I figured I’d comment. There are different options and if I were building something I’d probably do things differently, but I had gotten a deal on this a while ago and so far it’s suited my needs very well.

So first things first. I use Emby, not Plex. Emby supports hardware transcoding (via FFMPEG using VAAPI) and this has made a huge difference. I know Plex is planning on adding HW transcode, not sure if it’s been implemented yet.

Specs:
Ivy Bridge i7-3770
16GB RAM

Now I didn’t something a little different for storage. I got a 5.25” to 3.5” adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I have 3 8tb drives in there with a 2.5 SSD mounted on between them, the adapter left me enough room to mount two drives to it. This uses all the SATA ports

Then, and this is more recent, I put an NVME SSD (Samsung 960 EVO) in the PCI 3.0 spot with a PCI adapter. The BIOS doesn’t support booting from the NVME, so I put the boot partition on the other SSD. What I’m probably going to do is move the boot partition to a usb thumb drive and install it internally on the usb headers. There’s spare usb headers and I got an adapter to convert these to a USB port.

For good measure, I also had a Sans Digital 8 disk JBOD enclosure that’s basically a SATA port multiplier. The external east ports not he shuttle doesn’t support data port multipliers, so in the other PCI 2.0 spot I got a esata card with two ports.

Most of the time people direct stream, but there are many occasions of them transcoding as well. With throttling on for transcoding, it takes around a minute to do a hour show. CPU runs about 14%. The transcoding temp directory is on one of the SSD’s, this helps speed up the process I’m sure as it reads from one disk and writes to another.

I do the same thing with my NZB’s, intermediate directory on one disk and extract to a different disk. I have gigabit and get sustained 107MB downloads, this is with direct write on, unzipping as it downloads, and also allowing repair on one download while continuing another.

I’ve had quite a few people watch at the same time. Like I said most people direct stream and transcoding is pretty quick so you’d probably have to have at least 11 people start watching something that requires transcoding at the exact same time in order to overload it. Maybe one day I’ll actually run a test.

Software:

Emby
NZBGet
Kodi (this is what I use to watch stuff in my living room)
Sonarr
Radarr
Lazy Librarian
Ombi
Organizr
Webmin (year I know)
Nginx

Nice build. If I could recommend some tweeks for the future...

1)put the ssd on the backside of the case(behind the mobo)

2)put the hdd in a cage and attach it to a drive bay
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You now can remove the drive cage and use the space in the future for water cooling, plus it cleans everything up.

This is the 5.25" adapter I used from Amazon....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Even if you're running an optical drive, you should still be able to fit this in there too. Definitely makes for a cleaner build with removing drive cages.

I have these and they work great and are totally silent (come with grommets) in my r4. Free shipping w/ prime.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OJFASY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395886205&sr=8-1

For ten comfy drives, Fractal Design Define R5
and two of these.

For eleven drives, three toasty, Fractal Design Define R5, and this.

For twelve comfy drives, Lian-Li PC-A79.

For thirteen drives, four comfy: Corsair 750D, this, and this.

For fourteen drives, five toasty: Corsair 750D, this, and this.

you can convert the 5.25in bays to hold HDDs

You could use one of these to move that HDD up to your 5.25 bays and then remove all the HDD bays on the bottom. You would probably get increased air flow too. You could probably do without the fan you have on the HDD cage now or you could move it to the bottom of the case afterwards.

Looks good!

Been looking for a solution myself. These might help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141699818821

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188V400S/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271923119160

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OJFASY/

Seems fine, the cooler should fit (I did not find specific clearance measurements, but the case is wide enough) there are 4x3.5" bays, so enough for the HDDs, you might need to buy something like this to cleanly mount the SSD in a 5.25" bay as there is apparently no 2.5" slot, but you have extra 5.25" bays.

Sure there are:

If you're from the states: Newegg or amazon.

If you're in the EU: amazon.co.uk

> Can't pull PSU cables to the back, because there isn't any space to pull them to the front again, could do that with the case cables, but if that's the only thing, then there won't be much difference.

It looks like the cables are long enough to route behind the back and up top, at least for that 8-pin EPS cable. I think, based on that stock Thermaltake photo, if you take the motherboard out you can then route the cable through the tiny hole cutout.

> Is it safe to just tape a HDD somewhere around the bottom or inside the optical drive's place?

Since HDDs are moving parts they need to be mounted where they won't move or budge. Putting that drive back in the drive bay would fix that issue. If you don't have it then you can get a 5.25" bay to 3.5" drive adapter (like this).

Do you have a make and model for your case? The pictures you posted seem to be showing the inside of the 5.25" drive bays (where one would mount a DVD drive)

E: You can mount hard drives in the 5.25" bays, you just need brackets for them. Here is a link to a simple one from Amazon, $10

pull that optical drive out and buy as slim usb drive to hook up if you need it. Remove all the drive cages and mount the SSD on the back side of the case behind the motherboard and put the 3.5" drive in one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY

There is a lot more than can be done here but still way better than some of the snake pits I've seen pass through PCMR and BAPC

You haven't TRULY suffered until you've had to build a system with 3 drives, a moderately sized heatsink and the biggest 900 series card ever made into what is probably one of the tiniest mATX cases out there (EVGA hadron)

https://i.imgur.com/woBe3ZK.jpg

Literally every step of that build from the very beginning was wire management. There were entire discussions on the OC forum Hadron owners thread about various aspects of cable management.

It turned out rad though and was comically powerful for it's size - 7700k @ 4.5ghz, Gigabyte Xtreme 970 and 16g DDR4 3200 RAM

[bought this] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005OJFASY?keywords=5.25%20to%203.5&qid=1453164965&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2) tried all other places. Would just barely fit the top 3.5 spot on the HDD bracket (Was hitting GPU sata cables). Thanks for the headsup, didn't know this adapter existed.

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My rationale for the chosen products:

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• CPU: Intel quad-core, hyperthreaded, unlocked CPU clocked at 4,0GHz with a turbo boost up to 4,4GHz. You can learn more about hyperthreading, overclocking and turbo boost in the videos above. But the turbo boost will be different once you OC. This CPU will be more than powerful enough for streaming and playing games while doing so.
  
  
• CPU Cooler: When overclocking, you need a CPU cooler. While this is overkill for this CPU. You could get a $30-40 cooler and be perfectly fine with it. The reason I went for this AIO liquid cooler is because it looks cool and it also will be able to perform very well while keeping the fans at low RPMs. Wich result in a more silent system.
  
• Motherboard: Z97 is the chipset from intel and got all the latest features, mostly storage improvements. This motherboard is designed with overclocking in mind. So it got great power delivery, etc. But it also carries the "gaming" brand. This is somewhat justified because of the improved on-board audio. Which uses a seperate PCB for the higher quality audio components. Resulting in a cleaner and better sound. It also got a killer NIC. This is a network adapter chip that lets you prioritise games and streams over other random internet crap, resulting in a more stable and slightly better connection.
  
• Memory: RAM is RAM. As seen in the video above, speed does not matter for gaming. Capacity is the only thing that does matter for gamers, 8GB is enough as of right now. So I went for a 2x4GB, 1600MHz, CL9 kit from G.Skill. This is considered the "standard speed" and will work just fine. It also looks pretty cool. You still have the option to upgrade to 16GB later if you want, need to. I highly suggest to get the exact same kit if possible or at least the same speeds (1600MHz/CL9). This will cause the least trouble, but technically most RAM sets should work just fine.
  
• Storage: 250GB SSD & 3TB HDD. Went for a 250GB SSD as I find this to be a sweet spot in terms of price. It also should be more than enough for a while. You should install your OS on it and perhaps a game or 2 that you play often. But do note that the only thing an SSD does is make the loading screens go faster. Games won't get any higher FPS or anything when played from an SSD. Here is a nice detailed review about all the 4 capacities. For the HDD I went with a low RPM, 3TB HDD from WD. This HDD isn't as fast compared to higher RPM HDDs but it will be a lot more quiet compared to those. That is my reasoning behind this suggestion. The speed difference also is very small to begin with anyway.
  
• Video Card: This is the beauty of the system. The R9-290X is a great card wich got all 4GB of VRAM. Reason why I went for AMD is that the other card that is in this price bracket is the GTX970. Wich got 3,5GB of VRAM instead of the 4GB that nvidia speced it as. This won't be fixed by a driver update either since it's a physical binning process that causes the 3,5GB issue. Also a few cool technology bits that this card offers are Free-Sync & True-audio. Mantle as well, but.. not to sure how much that will matter as DirectX 12 seems to be pretty amazing. The cooler on this card is pretty amazing. Here is a very detailed written review.
  
• Case: Here is the best video review of this case. It is a beauty in my opinion and also an amazing piece of technology went into it to make it silent. The only tricky part is the radiator. I would suggest to not mount it in the top to keep the overall build silent. Because if you open the top moduvents, it will let sound escape. So my suggestion would be the front or the bottom of the case. I doubt that the tubing lenght will be long enough to get the radiator in the bottom. Perhaps it's possible. I have not worked with this case yet, so I can't tell for sure. You got 300mm lenght on the tubing, so that is a good amount, but not sure if it's enough. If you put the fans at the bottom so the radiator is slightly higher, you could perhaps just about fit it. The other option would be the front. But this would mean that you need to use the optical bay drive as your HDD drive. You can't mount the 3 x 3,5" drive bays in the top as it won't have the hooks. So you are forced to either mod it or use adapters. The silver one is a bit cheaper. So I would highly suggest to buy this adapter just in case.
  
• Case fans: The stock fans are of very solid quality. No need to replace them. Depending on how you can setup your radiator, I would suggest to place the 140mm that is in the front at the bottom of the case pushing air into the case, when you mount the radiator in the front. See more about fan orientation in the video above.
  
• Power Supply: 10 year warrenty, 80+ gold, fully-modular, semi-passive fan design, 850W PSU from EVGA. This is probably the best PSU you can buy in this wattage range. It's made by SuperFlower who make exceptional quality PSUs. The price is also pretty amazing and the semi-passive fan is a nice extra, meaning less noise. Here is a very detailed written review. Spoiler: 9,9/10 wich is very good.
  
• OS: Windows 8.1 is the latest Windows out there, it's also been confirmed that you get a free upgrade to windows 10 with it. At least the first year after it's release you can upgrade to it for free. Anyway, windows 8.1 is a pretty solid OS, much better and faster compared to 7. It also is less demanding on the system. I would highly recommend to visit ninite.com after you are done with the OS and motherboard/GPU driver installations. That site is pretty amazing. I would recommend to get classic start button, for sure.
  
• Monitor: I went for 2 monitor setup. A 144Hz gaming monitor and a 60Hz IPS secondary monitor. Watching movies, streams, etc will all be awesome on the IPS monitor. I have this exact model myself. Not the 144Hz, just the 60Hz IPS. It's a beautiful display and it also got an 3 x USB2.0 HUB wich is sweet. I use it for my keyboard and webcam. The 144Hz monitor is pretty awesome as well. Here is a fairly in-depth review. I've seen this monitor in person and it looked pretty well, considering it is a TN panel.
  
• Keyboard: As said above, it's very hard to recommend peripherals without having more information. So I went with parts that I find will work in most cases. Here is a great, short informative video review of the MX brown version. The only difference is the backlight and the switches. Here is an image of the red version. I do highly recommend a TKL keyboard because of the more natural posture. But it's up to you if you want this or not.
  
• Mouse: Here is an hilarious, but very detailed video review. It's an amazing mouse and I am sure you will like it. IF you use a fingertip, claw grip it will work fairly well but a palm grip is what I use and love. All grips pretty much can work with this mouse, but palm is the most ideal. Just let me know what grip you will use and if you want an other mouse, I can suggest a lot.
  
• Mousepad: Just get one, this one is relatively cheap and works like a charm. I have been using SteelSeries their mousepads for a very long time now and love them. Here is a very short review with a nice trick!
  
• Headphones: Now generally a gaming headset isn't something I recommend. A good pair of headphones + a seperate microphone is often much better in terms of quality for both the sound and microphone. But this headset is an exception. It is an amazing value as well and more than good enough quality. I have multiple friends now who got this headset after I recommended it and none of them dislike it. The only funny complaint I got from one of my friends was the fact that they seal so good, that he can't hear him talk to well wich made him talk slightly to loud sometimes. Here is again another detailed review. You can look for other reviews of this unit as well, they all pretty much say the same.
  
  

  Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  

  
  

Alternatively, you could put your SSD in your 5.25" bay with one of these.

Thanks....that's the kind of thing I'm looking for. I like for things to be properly mounted. I'll probably try to chop off the front part so it won't show from the outside though

edit: found what i'm really looking for......thanks for pointing me in the right direction
http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-AC52535-1S-Aluminum-5-25-inch/dp/B005OJFASY/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41jZzEbVIGL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1ZKBV0GP684PGM6BTEZ0

If you run a build with 1 ssd and 1hhd, I recommend getting a 5.25 to 3.25 mounting adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-AC52535-1S-Aluminum-5-25-inch/dp/B005OJFASY

I placed my HDD right below my CD drive and removed both the drive cages for better air flow.

Those cages don't stack, you just get the one cage (it looks like you MIGHT be able to mount another next to it, I doubt it though). You can definitely install a single HDD in each 5.25" drive bay, or take up both slots and install 3 HDDs, or 4 SSDs per bay

Yes, you could look into this :

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Aluminum-Internal-Mounting-Absorption/dp/B005OJFASY

Or search: 5.25inch to 2.5inch bracket

Goodluck

Look for something like this. I can't vouch for this product as I haven't used it, but with a HDD (mechanical) you need a little bit of space for heat dissipation, and something with vibration dampening is nice for noise canceling but not necessary.

You could rig something out of the existing cage and some metal snips / creativity, but honestly it's probably wiser to go for an existing product. Search for 5.25" to 3.5" adapter or something along those lines.

Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Aluminum-Internal-Mounting-Absorption/dp/B005OJFASY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541792754&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5+to+5.25+drive+bay+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41a%2BnV56boL&ref=plSrch

I'm installing an SSD in a 5.25in bay. Looking for recommendations for a good mounting bracket.

Something like this, or is there a better one?

Sorry to waste your time man, don't answer if you don't want to, but is this it?

I don't think that's the bracket you're looking for. The one you linked converts an external 5.25" bay (for, say, an optical drive) to a single external 3.5" bay (for a card reader or floppy drive). You want to convert a 5.25" bay to two 2.5" bays. Because of the greater size difference, there's a lot of options open to you. You could just get something like this, though you'd need to find a 5.25" bay plate to cover the hole. There are also options like this that include a faceplate (and actually will mount 4 2.5" drives), or this if you want to be able to hotswap drives, or even this if you want to retain the ability to have an optical drive.