Reddit reviews OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love the RAMPS 1.4 on my Makerfarm i3v, basically the same as the controller that comes with your printer, just slightly less contained. This one comes with the big screen and SD card reader, and it only costs 33 bucks. (Never heard of the brand though) Or you can get the full kit with brand name parts from Makerfarm for $130.

If you have Amazon available, this is by far the best price on the full setup (plus LCD and SD card slot)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZITDwb43HXT2

I've bought about 5 of them, and these guys may actually have some quality control.

It really depends on how comfortable you feel with electronics. Watch Youtube videos on the conversion and see if its something you are up for. If it were me, I'd do RAMPS (still with the mosfet mod) with Marlin firmware. Several people on this sub have done it and would mostly likely be nice enough to give you their Marlin firmware. If you go this route you'll have to set the current limit on the drivers, edit the configuration.h in Marlin, calibrate the e-steps, PID tune both hotend/bed and give the RAMPS board solder joints a carefully once over. Sometimes there are extra solder balls and shotty joints.
EDIT: you might also need to recrimp some connectors.

For sure. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/howto-converting-to-a-ramps-controller/

Pretty helpful sub, you can always ask me for help if you get stuck along the way. Also, I used the Makerfarm Pegasus instructions for putting the RAMPS together.

This is the kit I bought, it was mostly complete but I had to order some jumpers because I was short a few. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

I found a clone board, which includes an LCD, Mega, motor driver, etc. I've got a Raspberry Pi lying around that I can use to run Octoprint. My only concern is, as it's a clone part, is it going to be worth the $37 US? Also, a question about the heated bed - I assume the builid plate sits above the heated bed, so must the build plate be the same size as the heated bed? Or can it be slightly larger? I'll get back to you after I get the parts (or worst case, my printer doesn't cancel). Thank you for all your help, xakh!

EDIT: Also, I'm having some trouble locating a bowden cable. Also, the printer's coming in around $50 over my $250 budget. Is it possible to cut that any lower?

EDIT2: This really, really sucks. My printer was shipped already and they won't cancel it. Well, this will be the first thing I print after I level the bed and test it out. Thank you for your help, I'll build a SmartRapCore as soon as I can. Sigh

Well you can ask if they will take the melzi board and replace. You can go to wanhao site and under replacement they sell melzi board plug and play for $108 but you will have the bad melty connectors again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479852532&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Doing this you can even update to the bltouch and have auto bed leveling.

I like the MKS, but most of them only have 1 connection for the Z-axis which means you'll have to wire them up differently than the RAMPS which has two. The Sainsmart looks like it uses screw terminals? You'd have to cut the connectors off all your motors and wire them up to that. Which might be slightly annoying.

Though on the MKS Base you can probably use the 2nd extruder driver to push the 2nd z-axis motor, still a bit more hassle than just a RAMPS.

I just got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/r when I replaced my Melzi. You'll need a new LCD since the old one won't work anyways.

I just built my i2 I've had laying around and ordered some cheap electronics kit off amazon, This one. I'm using a 12v 30 power supply off amazon as well. I configure marlin and after messing with the endstops finally I get the motors to move. next onto the thermistors. both the bed and the extruder are working and reading 25c at room temp as long as the 12v power supply is turned off. as soon as I turn it on the extruder goes to 0c and the bed remains at 25c. I tested the thermistor and im getting ~99-98k ohms at around 25c room temp. I also went into marlin and changed the temp pins for the extruder from t0 to t2 in the ramps_pin.h script. same result.

Do I have a bad ramps/Mega? or has anyone seen this problem before? am I missing somthing in the firmware that might fix this or should I buy a less cheap ramps and mega?
Thanks

so i put marlin firmware on it that was from a Facebook group for my printer and it screen was fuzzie no text at all on it i have this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O

Oh yeah most definitely. Here is a link to the RAMPS kit that I bought and Here is a link to the E3D clone I bought. For this clone to work I printed an insert for the heatsink.

Oh boy, that's a mess of a motherboard. I'd recommend you really not buy another of those. I'd recommend buying one of these, if you can, but this board would still be an improvement over the one provided to you by Anycubic. They're all Arduino based, so the firmware would be more or less unchanged, and all the inputs are basically the same as well.

Any thoughts on if this would be okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491874832&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+kit

I don't want to get something that might go all sparky sparky poof poof

I've been working on converting to a ramps 1.4 kit. That's the one I ordered. I also picked up an ATX power supply so I can control it with my pi. As far as the conversion goes, it seems pretty simple, installing the Marlin firmware was weird (I ended up having to do the configuration/install myself with the current version of Marlin, not using osoyoo's custom one). I just printed the mount conversion and I'll be installing it soon.

Not sure if it helps or not, just wanted to give you my perspective :)

Yeah, it was a printer i got for a good deal from china. My old board melted and shorted out so I had to get this new one.

Is there a way to enable eeprom on this board? I'm not having much luck finding any article online on how to enable it.

Also, is this everything I would need to convert it to the arduino with ramps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZNj3wbQV2DV9T

https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487997525&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+1.4

I don't know if you need any of those additional parts, but this also has Prime shipping, so you don't need to wait a month for aliexpress shipping.

Sorry.. I fell asleep for a bit..

In the left pane at the top is "connection" where you set the port and baud rate. From other responses it seems the manufacturer screwed you on that though as it only does .gcode files. That is crazy.. I never heard of that as gcode is kind of an industry standard for CNC and 3D printers.

The ramps board is not too bad for most printers I've seen, but you would have to open up your printer controller and look at the plugs to gauge how hard it would be. Go on Amazon and search for "Ramps 3D mega". I got a kit with the RAMPS board, Arduino Mega 2560, 5 a4988 stepper controllers, 5 heatsinks, and a serial cable for $25. For $35 you can get one that includes a display and rotary encoder.something like this and then you just have to flash the firmware of your choice on there.

I have an Anet A8 with Ramps 1.4 and a BLtouch sensor. I used the Anet A8 Config file and adjusted a few things to enable my BLtouch. This video helped me a lot to understand what each line of code is doing, so I wasn't just assuming everything was right. I do believe I have different stepper drivers though, if I'm not mistaken my drivers are the A4988's that came with this Ramps kit on Amazon.


Edit: Sorry I'm not much help I got mine to work by following countless videos and wikis. Some specific for Anet, some specific for the BLtouch, and some for general Marlin firmware. Then I compared all the above to fit my setup as well as going over my config file many times for reasureence. If this post doesn't make headway try r/aneta8

I’ve done some basic configuring on a pi before, but not an Arduino.

Is something like this a good place to start?

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXi2AbTGH6C67

Ah, well, part of this difference in perspective may be the career path I had -- I've been doing custom electronics off and on for the past 20 years, and a larger number of the electronics design projects I work on are self-contained devices. A different realm than industrial applications. (I also used to do IT/Networking -- in that world, everything was networking gear, servers, and storage devices.)

In some cases, when I talk about real-time, I'm talking about timing relationships that are measured in ones or tens of nanoseconds. The PLC specs I've seen so far talk about cycles times of hundreds of microseconds -- which clearly wouldn't work for those applications requiring sub-microsecond timing. Of course, not everything I do is like that. In fact, most of the work are fine for PLC cycle timescales.

At the start of my career, I worked on a "crane game" arcade machine which would have been trivial to do with a PLC had I known about them then.

It's just that I've spent most of time at a different end of the spectrum than you, I think, and I'm now trying to get a better grasp and understanding of the PLC world.

BTW, I'd love to hear about your background and the path you took to get to working with what you use.

Also, could you point me to where I can read about some of the more "high-grade" systems that you mentioned? I'd really like to learn about them. TIA!

It's an interesting point you make about "selling lots of machines". I can see how if you are selling industrial equipment, using PLC's as building blocks would be the more appropriate approach.

A 3D printer is, in many ways, similar to such an industrial machine in complexity. The most popular forms of building printers today is to use a printer controller built around the Arduino platform (or, more correctly, the Microchip/Atmel Atmega family processors that are used in Arduino). We're talking about a controller board that typically runs 3 PID temperature control loops, 5 axes of motion control, communication with a host computer, reading (and occasionally writing) data to an SD card, running a control panel with LEDs, a graphical LCD, audio, and user inputs, and incorporating the motor driver -- for $35, delivered from Amazon (just to grab the first example I found). By my estimate, at least several tens of thousands of those are sold every year now.

Would I want to run an actual industrial machine with that board? Heck no! :) (They are known fire-starters in some cases, and most of the cheap boards lack hardening that you find in superior devices.)