Reddit Reddit reviews PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count

We found 18 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Electronics
Car Electronics Accessories
Car Audio & Video Installation Products
Car Amplifier Installation Products
Car Amplifier Noise Filters
Car & Vehicle Electronics
PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count
Eliminates ground loop noise between the audio source and radio. For use with portable devices that have RCA audio outputs, including pre-amp outputsClose to perfect response of +/- .03 db from 2 to 20,000HzUtilizes proprietary audio transformers for a 1.3 dB gainManuel
Check price on Amazon

18 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-1 Noise Isolator, 1 Count:

u/PM_ME_YOUR_MANDOLINS · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

Could be a ground loop. There are commercially available ground loop breakers that use transformers. Eg. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/

Could be the integrated soundcard. Guaranteed that a decent USB DAC will sound better, and it will probably negate the need for the above noise isolator. There are countless USB DAC's Eg: https://hifimediy.com/DACs/ready-made-dacs/sabre-dac-uae23?sort=p.price&order=ASC

u/troublesville · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I have a 1993 MR2 that I've installed a (somewhat period correct) Nakamichi MB-75 in. I got it NIB off eBay because I always wanted one. I'll probably upgrade to something more modern soon, but it looks awesome in the dash. It sounds great when the car is in accessory mode, but...

​

Onto my moronic questions: The power steering pump is electric on the MR2 and the HU makes a significant whurring noise as a result. Things I've tried:

  • It's definitely the power steering pump as I disconnected its power and the noise stopped.
  • I've isolated the noise to the HU -- if I run RCAs directly to the frunk (front trunk) mounted amps (ACM-4.300 and ACM-1.300), they don't have any noise.
  • I've tried grounding everything to the frame (ground wire, chassis, antenna) and different grounding points. It has no effect.
  • I ran power directly from the battery to check that with no effect.

    I ordered some of these noise isolators to try as they are cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K50HJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    ​

    Any other ideas? Would a DSP take that noise out? I am ready to stab my eyeballs out with this project.
u/swervicus_rex · 3 pointsr/ProAudiovisual

Seems to make sense to me, just make sure whatever you are tapping your speakers can be supported by your amp. (I typically give it a 2.0 Safety Factor for power.) Try to avoid sharing outlets of your audio system with anything else (like PC or other appliances.) If you do, you may need one (or more) ground loop isolators https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VXXU83M8Y6CP&keywords=ground+loop+isolator+rca&qid=1572640221&sprefix=ground+loop+is%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

Good luck, building a speaker setup, like a PC is a great learning experience!

u/kethera__ · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

I had to ground everything to everything:
Phono<->Preamp<->Rcvr

Alternatively, you can isolate the phono with one of these transformers:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?

u/egamble · 2 pointsr/audiophile

There is no such device that takes an optical signal and turns it into USB to connect to your Schiit Fulla. When connecting over USB, it requires drivers and your operating system to interface with the DAC.

You could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K50HJE to see if it will help for fairly cheap but unfortunately you may need to replace your dac with one that takes optical natively, or the scarlett 2i2 and try TRS to XLR cables.

u/dGlitch · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Had the same issue. Bought a 10 bucks ground loop isolator and the humming was gone.

u/soggyburrito · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/

or

https://www.amazon.com/ART-DTI-Transformer-Isolator-Eliminator/dp/B0009GUOQA/

But, if that doesn't work, you're probably gonna need an electrician to install a grounded outlet.

u/Choppin_Broccoli_ · 1 pointr/mazda3

Basically it's a filter that goes on the power line going from the car into the head unit. In my case I cut the large yellow and black wires in the adapter harness and wired in the filter (this will at least involve crimping or soldering).

If you're not comfortable cutting wires you can always try traditional RCA ground loop isolators like this. I tried these as well and while I did notice a decrease in the noise it was still present. These don't require cutting, just plug the RCA plugs on the harness adapter into the isolators, then plug the RCA plugs on the isolators into the radio.

u/bpsuxballz · 1 pointr/audioengineering

a ground loop isolator should do the trick. i had a similar problem when i bought my HS5's. something cheap like this should do the trick.

u/Carlobv · 1 pointr/buildapc

For anyone that's having a similar issue, I bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K50HJE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the problem is gone.

u/SoberBrent · 1 pointr/Miata

Did you sand the paint off the ground location? What your hearing is the alternator. Could be caused by a number of things. Faulty rca cables, bad ground connection, power wires run alongside rcas. They do make a noise isolator that may help as well.


Just a first step in troubleshooting. Unplug the rcas from the amp. Start the car and see if there is whine. If there isn’t you know you have a rca/head unit problem.

If you want more info I would suggest posting over at r/carav. There are people who are more knowledgeable than me.

u/sheffy55 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

That said there is a constant whine when the car isn't running and the amp is on as well

I've tried this and my next item is this

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

Right! Also, I only skimmed your post, and since you're using a receiver, and you're only hearing the sound through the sub, one of these between the receiver and sub might be better. I think either will work, as if I understand correctly the buzz is only present when using one of the PCs, but if you're connecting to the receiver with optical or HDMI, the RCA one between the receiver and powered sub is going to be the better option. You could also just get either the RCA or 3.5mm version and just use adapters, but, in my opinion, the fewer connections the better.

u/rambler429 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's either noise on the power line which would need a power noise filter or its in the ground loop and needs a ground loop isolator.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2RTC4VV2KB4UE&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1550033811&s=gateway&sprefix=ground+loo%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-6

Some amps pick up noise.

u/ThePookums · 1 pointr/buildapc

I had similar issues with a car audio setup, where I wasn't able to properly ground my amplifier due to it being a cheap Japanese car with no solid metal anywhere near the trunk. I bought an inline ground loop isolator and it really made a big difference. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1556836405&s=gateway&sr=8-5

u/SandFate · 1 pointr/CarAV

So, here are some common ways to remove "static" from your system.

  1. Upgrade your ground wires. (for your car battery, stereo, Alternator, and your amplifier negative connection) Make sure your amp's ground wire is connected to a CLEAN piece of metal on the body, no paint!

  2. Connect a ground wire to the negative side of the RCA plugs going into the amplifier.

  3. Double check how your RCA's are run through the car.
    If you have your main power wire for your amp running on the left side of the car, then you want to have your RCA's and Speaker wires running on the opposite side of the car.

  4. Use "Ground Loop Isolators" on every pair of RCA's going into the amplifier. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE

  5. Make sure your positive and negative connections to the amp is clean and solid, not loose or damaged looking.

  6. Make sure you have a nice tight connection on the battery and that the battery connections are tight. Also check both sides of the fuse on the amp's power wire near the battery. Make sure the connections are clean and inserted completely.

    Try those. If you still have a noise issue, then we can do a real diagnostic from there.
u/upinthecloudz · 1 pointr/audiophile

Ahh, hum is quite different. That's likely grounding noise, and would be less common on higher end equipment, but you'd be surprised where this kind of issue rears it's ugly head :/ You can confirm this is the problem by turning up the volume on the amp when the source cables are not connected to another device. If it's grounding noise, you won't hear the hum unless the cables are plugged into a source that is also plugged into the wall.

You aren't too worried about extreme details of sound quality with this system, so a ground-isolation transformer is probably the best way to fix the hum and improve the experience of using the system.

Assuming your sub is not producing a distracting hum, the best place to install an isolation transformer is between the sub and the amp, as these are the devices most likely to be creating a ground loop. The cheapest option I found on a quick Amazon search:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462919977&sr=8-7&keywords=ground+loop+noise+isolator