Reddit Reddit reviews PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

We found 45 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter
Adjustable Line Output ConverterUse the SNI-35 when adding an amplifier to a factory radio to convert the radio's speaker level output to the lower amplifier (RCA) level inputUtilize Audio Transformer for Noise IsolationPhase Adjusted.5 dB Linearity from 20 - 20,000 Hz
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45 Reddit comments about PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter:

u/ChrisRK · 5 pointsr/hometheater

You can indeed do this. Peoples has been doing this with car audio for years.

You will need to get a high to low signal converter which is basically a resistor to increase the impedance and output a weaker signal to the active amplifier.

Note that depending on the power output of your receiver you might have to turn down the subwoofer output quite a bit to not blow or melt the converter as the one I linked above can only take a maximum of 50 watts per channel.

u/Kadori · 5 pointsr/CarAV

where to begin...

your stock alt is most likely ~90 amps, you should be fine powering that hifonics off of it. that being said upgrading your battery is a good idea, even if that is just buying a new battery (something like an interstate megatronII will be fine) and doing the big 3 is also a good idea, at the very least upgrade your battery to chassis ground (0 ga CCA will be fine for this).

as for your installation options, you will be needing a LOC if you want to keep the stock HU, something like this will be fine.

the stock HU should be just fine running those alpines and no it does not put out 160W rms, its probably closer to 10W per channel so those alpines will cope just fine.

if you have any other questions dont hesitate to ask, this sub is here to help.

u/EGHeart · 4 pointsr/Mustang

If you want to retain stock & just install a sub and amp it's a simple job.

You just need to purchase a 2 channel line converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3YN5tb0KVS0G4

After that just split that converter into one of your rear speakers. Use the RCA's and plug it into your mono amp and your all good.

I'm assuming you know how to power your amp & hook up your sub to your amp.

u/SlimVR · 3 pointsr/infiniti

Its relatively easy. Splice into rear speaker wires for preamp (rca) signal, and run power & remote,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495131589&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rca+converter+for+car+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=51N99mFrh%2BL&ref=plSrch#


unless it's one of the newer signal sensing auto ON amps.

Or disconnect the oem Bose sub harness, leave it disconnected and tap into that harness for power, remote, and signal (+ & -).

As for the shop and the previous backup camera issue, find another shop asap. Those idiots either grounded the monster amp to the tiny ground screw that the backup cam uses, or they spliced into the camera's power wire as a remote turn on for the amp since it powers on with the ignition.

Try over at Best Buy, their auto installation bay area where they do alarms, radios, gps, etc.

Definitely check crutchfield.com. They have an online "what speakers fit my car" section, and their customer service is great, as well as their knowledge of in-car entertainment. You can even call them with questions.

u/Pandalizer · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Get a line out converter. Splice it into the radio harness and gives you rca outs. Just find one on Amazon with good reviews.

Edit : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Llk-ub0FVZFK0

Check this out

u/soul_train_ · 3 pointsr/CarAV

If you don't plan to upgrade the other speakers in the future, the lower-priced options (meaning: whatever you find at your local electronics supplier) will be fine.
Fancier models can give you more outputs, such as Front, Rear, Sub, and will also give you more level control.

My recommendations are:

Budget - PAC-SNI-35
Midrange - AudioControl LC2i
High End - AudioControl LC7i
Audiophile - JBL MS-8

Again, it mostly depends on your future plans.
The cheapest of the cheap will do the job, but if you can afford it, pick one that is a bit more than you think you currently need.
Because chances are good that you'll want to continue upgrading.

u/lumberjack_dan · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Its called a line output converter

u/bean72 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

What kind of amp do you have? Some amps have speaker level inputs, you could just connect the speaker outputs on the head unit to go direct to your amp. Doing this will keep your fader working.
If your amp does not accept speaker level inputs, you can always use a line output converter that will take the front speaker outputs on your head unit to convert to RCA.
Here's a line out converter

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

its called a line level converter, and the type they sell for cars will work fine. should be able to get it easily in any car audio shop.

or:

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

u/BigSherv · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

u/ocinn · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Speakers:

NHT SuperOne 2.1/ Super Zero 2.1

JBL 530 (if you can find it), if not JBL 230

Martin Logan 15


Amp:

SMSL SA98

AudioSource Amp100vs


Sub:

Martin Logan Dynamo 300 (and other models)

SVS PB/SB 1000

SVS PB/SB 2000

You might need this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EAWS3W/
To use a sub that doesn't have speaker level ins.

Any of these combos would work very well. I would prob. Get the Martin Logan 15s and the AudioSource, and the Dynamo 300 (or one of the SVS if you can afford it).

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've used this one for what you're talking about and it sounded great. It's adjustable as well for the same price.

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Receivers like this aren't usually designed to feed power amps other than an active sub-woofer, with it's own built in amp. It's to be expected, for convenience sake that everything needed, including the amplifier is contained in that one box.

Power amps on the other hand are more for people who prefer to build a system using separates. Separate amp(s), separate tuner etc., and using a pre-amp (some have tuners built in and others don't) as a switching station, volume control etc., for all of the separate components.

The only thing I can recommend is to use a speaker to line level converter. Here is an inexpensive model for example of what it is sake.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451244396&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level

This will connect to the speaker terminals of your receiver instead of speakers and will convert that signal to a line level signal needed to feed your power amp. The receiver will still control the volume etc.

If you are going to use the Fisher STV-893 towers as your front L&Rs for the 5.1 Pioneer VSX-521 system then those are the speaker terminals you want to use the "speaker to line level converter" on.

u/raider2016 · 2 pointsr/FordFocus

Tint I would definitely recommend a professional for sure, I know places around me do it relatively "cheap" for 150-160 and a lifetime warranty.

Window switches no idea, won't even bother commenting.

Sub is not very difficult. I added mine with the stock headunit w/sync w/o nav or MFT. It costs about 20 dollars for a LOC and a remote turn on switch.

Wiring harness isn't needed as I just used vampire clips (absolutely no idea what they're called all I know is they just clip into existing wires without splicing, they work perfect.)

I found a wiring diagram online for my particular model of HU and spliced into the two right and left sides of the speaker line outs and hooked it up the LOC and found a ant out turn on on the radio that would trigger the 12v out when the car would turn on and turn off when the car turned off.

It is my understanding there is an all in one however I don't know which one it is and I'll just link the two I used. I know what I did worked flawlessly and has for the past 8 or so months.

Obviously after that you'll need a wiring harness and sub/amp whatever else. I have found that high volume levels 20+ tend to cut the sub out completely and I'm not sure if it has to do with the HU doing that or my set up. My guess would be the stock HU doing that to try and attempt to save the stock speakers.

Remote turn on module: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR-4-Remote-Turn-on-Module/dp/B0002J22BE/


LOC converter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

u/iball2016 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

u/hfmutlu · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

u/ampsby · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Yes, The new amp only has speaker level out.

IF you wanted to go this way

use one of these on the subwoofer out of the new amp

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI35-Adjustable-2-Channel-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407004949&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+level+to+line+level

and use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter to pug this into the controller, only the low end will go into the controller now

u/CBarberena · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!

u/9999dave9999 · 2 pointsr/sonos

You can if you connect this to the speaker outputs. link


u/cinepro · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The subwoofer output is going to be mono, so you only need the one output. Connect it to either speaker-level input on your subwoofer and you should be fine.

If for some reason that doesn't work out (I've never actually used speaker-level inputs on a sub before), the other option would be to use one of these to convert the speaker-level output to an RCA-level and use the RCA input on the subwoofer.

u/itcrackerjack · 1 pointr/diyaudio
u/diabolical_furby · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Perfect, thanks! This is the back of my sub, so there are line-level outputs. Where I messed up is I tried to connect straight RCA cables from the line out to the sub without using a Y-splitter, which of course didn't work. Then I bought this guy and connected it to my speaker outputs, and then ran the same RCA cable from that to my sub, which also didn't work. Maybe I did it wrong or I got a bad converter? Either way I'll experiment with the Y-splitter, one has got to work. If not maybe my sub is defective and I'll get in contact with Best Buy who I got the sub from as open box.

u/strategicdeceiver · 1 pointr/NoAudiophile

If keeping the remote control is a priority, some people have had success with line level converters. Other option is to use the tape output in conjunction with a pot in a box like one of these, but you will lose remote volume capability.

u/Gah_Duma · 1 pointr/hometheater

Don't give up so fast. If you're feeling adventurous, try buying a line-out converter. Typically these are used for car stereo systems. Not sure how they will affect the impedance of the speakers and I can't guarantee that they won't blow your amp, but logically it's possible.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W or something else like it

u/pervyme17 · 1 pointr/CarAV

What are the advantages of OFC? Will it sound better/last longer, etc.?

Also, could I get away this this cheap Line out converter, or should I get something better? Thank you for being so much help!

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=pd_bxgy_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001EAWS3W&pd_rd_r=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08&pd_rd_w=gL0hJ&pd_rd_wg=gFhz3&psc=1&refRID=RVMV8TKNZ21269XR4J08

u/Spud1080 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This sort of thing exists if it's helpful - just make sure it can handle whatever power you plan to pump into it. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

u/TheImmortalLS · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You can do that but maybe use a high to line level converter (PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W) first? Don't want to blow the active sub with too much voltage to line in.

u/rdwtoker · 1 pointr/CarAV

the amp they suggested is fine, you could just get the same stuff off the web for super cheap

4 gauge amp kit - $32.48

line out converter - $13.02

SAE-1000D - $314.99

ported prefab - $49.99

that puts my amazon cart total at $411.39 tax included, and if you didnt want to do the amp install then buy your stuff online then take that amp/amp kit/loc to a shop and pay them to install it.

However, I would recommend a custom box rather than the prefab I recommended as you would get a lot lower bass.

u/bongdong42O · 1 pointr/Honda

I bought this line out converter https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537158568&sr=8-1&keywords=sni35

Would that fix that problem? I'm looking to tap into the wires that come right out of the subwoofer, the ones that are in the trunk.

u/CrossBones3129 · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/lpbman · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

48v 2 channel amp

Subwoofer amp

8" weatherproof coaxials

Subwoofer

Head Unit

line out converter

Head unit shield

Need to be pretty handy for this setup, but it isn't anything crazy. The amplifiers will power on when you put juice to them so you'll need a switch. You can run off of the main batteries with these amps, and the head unit off of the 12v supply. Those coaxials are meant for wakeboard speakers... I would do 4 per side, depending on how loud you really want to be and how much space you have available. Having a real head unit will make sure the signal has enough signal strength to run the 2 channel, and the sub amp will be fed by rca right from the head unit.

Sub will need a box, might look for one that is sprayed with bed liner for weather resistance.

u/jackemrys · 1 pointr/audio

Yes, it will work.

I used to run a setup like this when I was in highschool. (Not disparaging you, it was pretty cool)
I actually used a DC power amp with the sub in my bedroom.

The easiest way to use a dc car headunit (radio) with a home theater receiver is to wire up a computer power supply like this.

Basically, you will take a power supply and strip the leads to connect to your car headunit. Make sure that this headunit has RCA outs, or you might end up having to use one of these. Using one of these will almost surely degrade your audio signals, but if you're streaming over bluetooth, it won't matter much anyways.

Warning: if you don't do your research AND properly terminate your exposed leads on both the headunit and convertor, you can start a fire.

As far as the other sources such as tv, xbox, ect, they will all be routed through your receiver, and then to whatever other speakers you have hooked up.


EDIT: something like this
bluetooth receiver might be more well-suited to your needs.

u/cheatsydoodle · 1 pointr/audio

I think I'm gonna get this one

u/dpatt711 · 1 pointr/cbradio

I bought one of these. My concern is that the mono output of the PA will cause issues. Im using these so I can plug in a stereo 3.5mm.

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

Here are a couple more that accomplish the same thing, reducing High Speaker Level down to Low Line Level signal -

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Variable-Line-Converter/dp/B001EAWS3W/

https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-LOC90-Line-Output-Converter/dp/B00YEU8T96/

Connect the wires to the speaker terminals and the RCA outs to the Active Speakers.

u/1nvisiman · 1 pointr/CarAV

For your subs, you can pretty much get any $15-$20 loc and be fine.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Pz3xxb48SVB7F

If you dont want to wait for shipping. Im sure your local electronics or car audio installation shop has one. Best buy carrries some too, if that's by you.

u/tldnradhd · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

Such things do exist, but I think it's better to avoid them since it's likely to degrade the sound quality due to unnecessary components in the chain. Also, most of them are made for car audio, where quality standards often aren't as good.

EDIT: Looking at the service manual, it appears the Toshiba has a DIN socket. This is probably a line-level output since I understand that connector was used a lot on European gear. If that's what it is, it can be converted to RCA line-level with a cable like this or this. This is a much better option than using the speaker-level to line-level converter.

u/jamesjamesnotjames · 1 pointr/hometheater

something like this or this?
and will the sound quality take a noticeable hit with such a setup? this record player is really nice but if it's going to sound like garbage i would just consider buying a newer one..

thanks for your help with this!

u/EndTrophy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

What if you passed it through a line-out converter?

u/kodack10 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well unplug the sub from the phono input :)

Then buy a direct box for about 10 dollars at any Best Buy that converts speaker level to line level and wire it in parallel with the left or right channel.

u/aww_tucker · 0 pointsr/audiophile

You can use some of the following:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAWS3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(or similar speaker level to line level converters) to adapt your speaker outputs on your receiver to line level outputs, adapting it into a pseudo preamp. They are commonly used in car audio, not so much home audio setups, but I've read that folks have auditioned home systems setup this way and the adapters supposedly did not affect the sound quality in any way. YMMV

u/abipes13 · 0 pointsr/CarAV

Check this out on AMZN:

PAC SNI35 Adjustable 2-Channel Line Out Converter
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Alright, here is the line out converter, everyone else gave it an awesome review, so I might be stupid or something.

u/SteezyNutss · -1 pointsr/CarAV

You'll need a line out converter. I used this LOC and haven't had any problems with it just make sure to properly ground it out. Then I used some Quick Splice/T-Taps to tap into the Rear Left Speaker (positive and negative) and Rear Right Speaker (positive and negative) at the back of the head unit. And wallah you got your RCA outputs