Reddit reviews Panef Corp. L-300 Powdered Graphite Lubricant - Net Wt .21 oz

Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.

So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.

You'll need the following:

-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).

-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.

-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.

First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.

Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.

Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.

When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.

That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.

Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.

Don't use WD40 on locks. Powdered graphite should be available at your local hardware store.

Not sure whether or not it would help, just thought I should add what you should use instead of WD40 because CrankyTank did't elaborate.

Powdered graphite lock lubricant. Could be the key is a bit off and the pins in the lock can probably use some lubricant. (Do not use WD-40 or other liquid lubricants, only powdered graphite). Amazon link, but you can get it much cheaper at Walmart or local hardware store

Powdered graphite lubricant.

It is dry so it won't gum up and it won't harm plastics. It can leave a grey residue if you use too much, but you can wipe it away with a cloth.

Have you tried lubricating it with dry graphite?

My ignition cylinder would bind too. All lock cylinders need to be lubricated periodically. Like once a year. Hammering it will only cause more damage

If the lock on your house/car is sticky, or hard to work, try a few simple things. Grab some Graphite and shoot it into the keyhole. Also try some wd-40 in the latch. This will solve most problems that are not due to mechanical failure and cost much less than replacing / calling a locksmith. If your key won't work, try graphite in the keyway as well as tapping the lock with a hammer while working the key.

Just..not in locks please.

You want this stuff or similar.

Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....

I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before amazon.com/Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant

As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....

You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.

If all you need is some graphite, and don't care where it comes from, a pencil is mostly graphite, and you can get graphite powder as a lubricant.

Making synthetic graphite requires serious lab gear, AFAIK, they superheat carborundum to produce it.

Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.

Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.

At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.

On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.

Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.

Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.

Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!

Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?

For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:

powder graphite

and this kind of graphite lubricant? https://www.amazon.com/Panef-Corp-Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant/dp/B0016GZQ60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498581402&sr=8-1&keywords=graphite