Reddit Reddit reviews Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller

We found 16 Reddit comments about Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Sports & Outdoors
Cycling
Bike Tools & Maintenance
Bike Shop Tools
Outdoor Recreation
Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller
Fits all cranks using 22mm x 1 threads and square, tapered bottom bracket spindlesAlso fits "Power Spline" cranks from SRAM using the 8mm thread boltStrong rotating tip system ensures smooth operation and long lifeNOTE: For cranks using the ISIS Drive or Octalink system, use the CCP-44 or the CWP-7
Check price on Amazon

16 Reddit comments about Park Tool CCP-22 Crank Puller:

u/[deleted] · 21 pointsr/bikewrench

That's a great bike to start with. I started off with a bike in much worse condition.

I usually start off by giving the bike a quick wash. Just water and some dish soap to get off all dust and loose dirt. After that I dry it with an old towel.

Then comes the tear down. I put it on my stand and remove the wheels and set them aside. Then I just start cutting off all the cables (brakes and derailleur). After that, the chain gets it. I use the Park chain tool.

Then its on to removing the derailleurs, cranks, stem/bars, brakes, etc. Rear derailleurs are mostly removable with a 5mm allen wrench. Front derailleurs, too, although some of the older ones may just have a hex head. The seat post binder bolt is usually 5mm, also. Hopefully it isn't stuck. If it is, just come back and ask for methods.

Onto the stem and handlebars. To remove the stem, just loosen up the bolt up top a couple turns and tap it with a hammer and hopefully it slides out without a fight. Then remove the brake levers from the bar, then the bar from the stem.

I use this tool for the allen bolts. Park AWS 10

To remove the pedals from the cranks, I use a snap-on 15mm wrench. Remember, the pedal on the left side is reverse-threaded.

The bolt (or nut) on the crank arms is most likely 14mm and on much older bikes sometimes 15mm. I use a 14mm socket with a ratchet.

Removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle can be a pain sometimes. The tool to remove them is a crank puller. I use the park ccp-22. Make sure the threads are clean on the crank apply a little grease on the tool. Try to make the tool screw in the most it can and don't cross-thread. Aim to get the tool to bottom-out on the crank. Then you start spinning the handle and then you'll get a little workout on your arms.

By this point I usually just have a frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket left. I'm tired so I'll just stop typing for now, heh.

Ask If you need any help. Someone will gladly help you here and see if you have a local bike co-op/ kitchen nearby. They could be a great asset.

u/T-Torx · 10 pointsr/bikewrench

With the right BB, Yes. Take the R-der as well, you can use it for parts. Looks like a square tapered BB.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Tool+for+removing+square+tapered+BB&qid=1562026322&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2

This the tool to remove it

u/wondertwins · 4 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

You'll probably need:

u/zombierobotvampire · 3 pointsr/MTB

You may already know this, but thought I would mention it anyway, since you're here asking for advice. If you're upgrading from a square tapered BB and don't already have this tool, don't forget to pick-up a crank puller.

u/802bikeguy_com · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The spindle length of your current bb might be what you need. If the bearings feel smooth no need to replace. You'll need to buy a crank puller to remove the stock cranks.

u/wickedcold · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Wow I don't know what happened but I apparently didn't save an edit. I had other links in there and also a link to the tool.

Here is the crankset that has the same rings you have

Here is the tool you need

The fine gentleman who also replied explained why I said what I said about the chain and ring combinations. You won't have to worry about that though if you get the crankset I linked with the correct ring combo.

u/svdodge · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Good news bad news. A longer allen tool will get that bolt out, but once it is removed, the crank will not come off unless you use a crank removal tool like this one.

u/Sumpm · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

If the bottom bracket is loose, you need to remove the crank arm(s) and tighten it. I'm guessing you don't have a crank arm remover or the correct adapter for the BB cups.

Although it'd be extremely helpful down the line to own all the tools you need for this, it'll be a lot faster and cheaper just to take it to a shop and let them figure out what's loose and what needs to be done to fix it. If you want to do it yourself, you need the following:

u/natermer · 2 pointsr/ebikes

>Here, it says that a brake sensor is recommended.

It's a good idea on mostly any ebike, but PAS more then hand-throttle. It's because you really don't have a super amount of control over the motor output and it's easy to accidentally trigger a bike by moving the pedals around and getting read to go at a stop light. That sort of thing.

A torque PAS is more typically going to combine a cadence sensor and torque sensor into one thing. This is done to improve responsiveness as the controller can be aware of pedal movement immediately and give a starting boost. It's hard to balance out responsiveness so that you eliminate the 'laggy' feeling, but not so much that the bike jumps out by mistake.

​

>I don't want to use a throttle, but I want to have the temperature sensor installed.

I am pretty sure the temperature sensor people talk about goes into the motor and is independent from the throttle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wb8Omk6e7GI

But I suggest getting a low profile thumb throttle unless there is some sort of legal prohibition against it. You can put it on your left side of the bike, which is a nice setup since you won't need your front derailleur controls anymore and it won't get in the way.

It's less useful then on a hub motor (which can help you get going if you are in the wrong gear), but you'll find situations were it's handy to have.

​

>Should I keep the nylon blue gear until it fails, or should I replace it with a brass one right away?

Keep the nylon gears. They are very tough and help make up for some of the sloppy tolerances in the bike motor.

If people are regularly stripping them it's more then likely because they are allowing the motor to get too hot. A overheating motor won't get hot enough to melt the gears, but it'll get hot enough to get the nylon soft.

​

>How do I figure out which tool I need to remove the existing bottom bracket and cranks on my bike?

The main thing you'll need is a crank puller. Otherwise getting the crank off is a nightmare.

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20/

You'll need a chain breaker tool as well to size your new chain to your bike. Some multi-tools have one built it. They are pretty cheap things.

Bottom bracket tool is probably needed, but it depends on your BB.

https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22

https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Bicycle-Bracket-Removal-Remover/dp/B07MFLJJBZ/

You don't necessarily need it 100% if you are creative... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKWWwhRH3cg But it'll make the job a lot easier. Get down and look closely at the BB, though, and make sure that yours is that 20 spline style. Most are.

And watch a couple videos on it. The drive side is reverse threaded which can be confusing.

​

>What is the more resistant and weatherproof connector for the battery? XT60 or XT90?

They are both the same connector, more or less. Xt90 is just physically larger and handles more current, but otherwise the same.

I use Xt90s for the battery connector (the S stands for 'anti-spark'). Otherwise xt60's are sufficient for your bike.

u/lunchWithNewts · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Do you really need/want to replace your bottom bracket?

Looks like a square taper crankset. That should be easy to find and replace without touching the bottom bracket. You'll need a crank puller, something like this

u/quietIntensity · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Your best bet would be to take it to a bike shop. They likely have a crank arm in stock that would work, assuming they used a normal size and the classic square taper interface. If you can't get the whole bike to the shop, you can probably remove the crank arm using one of these, and take that to the shop:

https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-CCP-22-Crank-Puller/dp/B001VS1M20

They're pretty easy to use, you can find youtube videos that explain it in a couple minutes.

The new crank arm should not cost more than $30 at a shop. Online they are really cheap, and this one is a known good brand:

https://smile.amazon.com/SR-Suntour-Replacment-Square-Taper/dp/B00GHTQ7YQ

u/BrockAvalanche · 2 pointsr/crossfit
u/paxtana · 1 pointr/ebikes

I'm new to this so am probably not the best person to ask, because I'm not sure I know what you mean. They come with crank arms though. I think the puller depends on the kinda bike you have, but here's the one I ordered.

u/GruntledMisanthrope · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.

If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.

Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.

u/TijmenK · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

The biggest difference between cranksets is roundness, a more expensive crank is going to be rounder which means there's a smaller difference in chain tension which means it "absorbs" less energy is more silent. Expensive cranksets are also stiffer, but unless you're putting out 3000 watt that isn't really an issue.

That conversion kit looks like a bad idea, it's a bunch of the cheapest components being marketed as "hip".

They're called riser bars, as long as you find a bar with same diameter (probably 25.4 or 26 mm on older road bikes) you can keep the stem and headset.

Park makes super nice tools, and that stand is a great choice. But I'd really consider buying tools along the ride, instead of shelling out big time for this huge set. Since you are a tool guy you probably already have a good part of those wrenches and keys, so it'd be better to move a bit of that budget towards your bike.

For this conversion you'll need these tools:

u/torlesse · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You need something like a crank puller such as

(assuming its a square taper or similar)

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Puller-Square-Cranks/dp/B001VS1M20/

to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.

It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.

If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.

So it depends on $$$$ vs time.