Reddit reviews Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard

I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!

You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!

When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!

Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!

Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!

Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!

If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.

Hello! Welcome to the wonderful world of betta keeping! I'm a bit late to the game, since this was posted a bit ago, and you've already recieved advice, but I'd like to offer up some as well.

As everyone has already said, it's a pretty big misconception for nearly all new betta keepers that bettas can be kept in small spaces without a filter or heater. This stems from the belief that bettas live in mud puddles, when it couldn't be further from the truth.

Bettas come from vast rice paddies, that will usually never dip below knee height and stretches for miles on end. In the dry season, the paddies do tend have lower water levels, but certainly not puddles. It's a densely planted ecosystem with moving water, and natural filters, ie. The plants and bacteria.

Since you're new to fish keeping (I assume, but apologies if I am wrong) you may not be aware of something called the "Nitrogen Cycle." While it may be confusing at first, essentially the beneficial bacteria that breaks down your fishes waste into ammonia, then nitrites, and then nitrates. This process is crucial for your fishes health and well being, and is very important in the fish keeping world, but I'll get into the specifics a bit more later in this comment.

While the "recommended" amount of space for a betta is commonly agreed to be 2.5 gallons, which is perfectly fine as a bare minimum, I would honestly not recommend such a small space for a beginner. This is because of the nitrogen cycle. I would go with a 5 gallon tank, or even a 10 gallon, which will be much easier to cycle and keep your fish much safer during the process.

As for the nitrogen cycle itself, the process happens on it's own, but you have to be the one to keep your fish safe during it. Basically, ammonia and nitrites are deadly to your fish, and for the first few weeks, these will be all too common. What your aiming for is the much safer, but still harmful in large quantities, and manageable nitrites at the end of the cycle.

The nitrogen cycle starts with the addition of ammonia into a new tank. This can be done in 2 ways, fish in or fish out. What you'll be doing is a fish in cycle. Beneficial bacteria will begin to grow in your tank to break down waste and convert them into the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. The bacteria grow on surfaces, such as decor, gravel, filter, heater, glass, and is NOT present in the water itself. This means that for the next few weeks, you gotta stay on top of your water change game.

50% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 30% water changes every other day for 2 weeks. 40% water changes about every 3-4 days for a week. 30% water changes about once or twice a week at the end of the cycle. I know it seems like a lot, but your fish will appreciate it.

For more information on the Nitrogen Cycle, you can search it on google, and a helpful video to watch on it is KGTropicals youtube video "everything you need to know about the nitrogen cycle." They break it down so well and have more visual representations, so I definitely recommend it.

Some things to consider getting for your fish as well, and things that will help your cycle a TON. I'll be adding links for visual representation, as well as trying to find you the best prices I can.

1. A good sized tank. I recommend a 5 or 10 gallon, much easier to start and keep a cycle in a bigger tank, but yes, 2.5 gallons is perfectly fine if you need it space wise. Be aware that even more water changes will be required to keep and maintain your tanks balance though.
   
   No links for this one since shipping a tank is a PAIN, but 5 and 10 gallon tanks can be bought from places like walmart, or local stores, or petsmart and Petco. I'm not sure if petco is still having their dollar per gallon sale, but a 10 gallon tank would only be $10.
   
   
2. A good water conditioner. I recommend something like Seachem Prime or Neutral Regulator. These will remove any heavy metals, chlorine, and chlorimine from your water, AND detoxify ammonia, and nitrites for 48 hours. This is SO GOOD for keeping your fish happy and healthy during the cycling process.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safe-250-g-8-8-oz/dp/B0002A5WOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=seachem+prime&qid=1572116532&sr=8-8
   
   
3. A good filter. Personally, sponge filters are the way to go. Easy, cheap, reliable. Most local fish stores will have the sponge filter itself, but they can also be ordered on Amazon. The other things needed would be airline tubing, and an airpump. The tubing and air pump can be bought even at big retailers like walmart or meijer and replaced easily sin e they're so readily available.
   
   To clean a sponge filter is the easiest thing. While your changing tank water, out some in a clean bucket, take your sponge filter out, put in bucket of removed tank water, squeeze sponge filter, put back in tank. It also holds an awesome amount of the good beneficial bacteria and will not lose it when you clean it, unlike changing cartridges for a hang on back filter. They also aerate the water, bringing more oxygen into it, and don't create a high flow that will tire your betta.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Lefunpets-Biochemical-Sponge-Breeding-Aquarium/dp/B07VM8DN5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=sponge+filter&qid=1572116736&sr=8-7
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Pump-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fish%2Btank%2Bair%2Bpump&qid=1572116792&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=airline+tubing&qid=1572116832&sr=8-3
   
   Hang on back filters can be used too though, I just don't find them as reliable.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Power-Filter-Three-Stage/dp/B001CHXJSK/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=fish+tank+filter&qid=1572117085&sr=8-16
   
   Be sure to use a hang on back appropriate for your tank size. Bettas can tire easily of water flow is too high, and in some cases you may still need to baffle the filter.
   
   https://youtu.be/Hse7F3pvHqI
   
   
4. A good heater. Ideally, you want one you can adjust. Choose a heater for your tank size as well. Too small, won't keep water warm, too bug, could possibly cook your fish. That's never a good thing.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/HITOP-Aquarium-Reptiles-Thermometer-50W-Grey/dp/B07MJJJ4QQ/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDIw-ac_d_pm&keywords=fish+tank+heater&pd_rd_i=B07MJJJ4QQ&pd_rd_r=429ee2a8-3699-45aa-8e2b-e30164b14a2a&pd_rd_w=uFCrj&pd_rd_wg=125c4&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=T4YHMVDAP5EAQSAGXKJV&psc=1&qid=1572117367
   
   
5. A good food. The recommended I've seen so far is Northfin betta bits, or Fluval bug bites. You can also go the frozen food route, but it's a bit more expensive and involved.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Betta-Bits-Pellet-Package/dp/B01C1ARV3K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=northfin+betta+bits&qid=1572117834&sprefix=northfin+&sr=8-2
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A6577-Tropical-Granules-Medium/dp/B07194GD1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=fluval+bug+bites&qid=1572117868&sprefix=fluval+bug&sr=8-4
   
   I use a mix of Aqueon, Northfin, and Fluval for some variety in my bettas diets along with frozen blood worms. They love them. I've heard Hikari betta food is good too.
   
   I don't recommend the generic foods sold at walmart. The pellets are too big, and the formula is low quality. It'll keep your betta alive, but just isn't great for them. Also, flake foods are a no no. It's just too messy, the fish doesn't eat all of it, and just isn't worth it.
   
   Lastly, you want to decide what kind of decor you will go with. If you go artificial, be sure to use soft, silk plants so your bettas fins do not get hurt.
   
   I recommend live plants always though, cause they help a lot in keeping your tank clean, produce oxygen, and will help absorb some of nitrates in the water. All around good stuff. Easy plants to take care of are anubias, java ferns, java moss, water wisteria, and floating plants like water lettuce.
   
   Bettas also need hiding places. This can be anything really. From the decor sold at walmart, natural looking rock caves, or even a terracotta pot. It doesn't really matter, as long as it doesn't have sharp points.
   
   The decor is up to you and what you like.
   
   Ummmmm, I can't think of anything else really. But if you need any help with anything, feel free to reach out! A lot of us are passionate about our quirky little dudes and gals and will be more than happy to help with anything you need advice on. And use the internet to your advantage too! There's TONS of good information and videos out there now, and you can find what you're looking for at the touch of a screen now.
   
   And also also, please do not feel bad about your start at betta keeping. We all start somewhere, and more than likely, we have all made this very same mistake. I know I did. The best thing to do now is to just work on upgrading your little dude and providing the best care you can for him. He'll start to heal up and REALLY shine.
   
   Apologies for extremely long message, but I hope this helps and wish you and your betta the best of luck!! ☺️

Necessities

api liquid test kit

sponge filter

airline tubing for sponge filter

air pump for sponge filter

thermometer

fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper

dechlorinator if you don't already have it

heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater

You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.

Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.

I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap

Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature

Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff

Kits tend to be more expensive and lower quality compared to buying things separately.

A 5 or 10 gallon tank from petco, pet smart, pretty much any pet store is usually only around $15 max.

An air pump, some airline tubing and a sponge filter, all about $12.

A simple adjustable heater, $9 and a thermometer, $2.

Water conditioner, a small bottle is like $6.

Those are the vital basics, for about $35.

Another thing that is a bit pricier but ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to get as soon as possible is a liquid drop water test kit which currently on Amazon is $22. Do not get the paper test strips, they are a bit cheaper but they are completely inaccurate and they'll end up costing more because you need to keep buying new ones.

A test kit will be absolutely necessary to cycle the new tank, which, if not done carefully, can kill the fish.

If your friend can't get the test kit right away, I'd check around your local pet stores, because often times they'll offer free water testing. Until then, do big water changes (at least 50%) every day to be fairly sure the water is kept clean and safe.

They're selling you a blackbox education package and some weirdo modular farm for $2500. You have no idea what you're getting in either. All I can tell you is this:

A 200 sq ft system (including everything) cannot feed 8 people. 1,100 lbs of vegetables and 400 lbs of tilapia won't feed 8 people, and that's what they claim their system makes. Average people eat 4.5-5 lbs of food in a day on average, meaning 1652-1825 lbs per year per human. A system that produces 1500 lbs won't even feed one person, but they say it right there:

>This one module will feed 8 people FOREVER

That's a lie. Even on their inflated estimates of how much food they produce, that's an outright lie.

Another thing I know: This system does not include fish tanks. Fish tanks are the most expensive part of every build I've ever done, and this system asks that you provide your own. This system does not include filtering tanks, either, which will run you another good bit of change. Potentially most importantly, This system does not include fish. Food-fish are hard to source, and you'll have to source your own.

And to add insult to injury, this system does not include grow medium or PVC. You are paying over a thousand dollars a unit at the the lowest prices (which you can only get at huge volumes, over 50 units) for grow beds, a patented water pump, two air pumps (for no reason, one air pump works just as well), two air stones, tubing, a patented electrical panel, worm castings, mineral dust, and a list of all the other shit you'll have to buy.

Let's price this out:

• Grow Beds - they're not using box beds, they appear in the pictures to be using black pvc sheeting, like for ponds. 250 ft sq - $150
  
• Water Pump - Dr Nate from Bright Agrotech says moving all of your system volume once every two hours is okay. if you have an 8 inch deep grow bed filled to 2 inches below the top of the medium in a medium that takes 60% of the space in the container that would be roughly 320 gallons, so you need to move roughly 160 gallons an hour, and you'll probably want to move them three feet up. So using Pondmaster pumps (a pretty solid brand I see in heavy use) you'd use the Pondmaster mag Drive 3 - $65
  
• Air pumps - fuck it, use whatever. If it won't kill aquarium fish, it won't kill aquaponic fish This looks like insane overkill, let's buy two, then add air tubing and a fistful of junctions and Four of these air stones and call it a day (I measured NOTHING and I don't regret it, everything I picked was probably insane overkill) for a grand total of $125 for the air setup.
  
• A patented electrical panel? We'll use a surge protector. $10 if we're fancy here.
  
• A pound of worm castings - $6
  
• Two pounds of Azomite Mineral Dust - $12
  
  And the grand total is: $368 for everything they offer, minus the list of other things you'll have to buy.
  
  Hope that list is worth $600+ in your mind.
  
  Seriously though, just go watch all of Bright Agrotech's videos five or seven times apiece to get the science and then read here to figure out what kind of system you want. I just spent fifteen minutes and saved you over a thousand dollars setting up your system. Imagine what you can do in a couple hours.

Yes you can get fancy guppies, and male look prettier, but if you wanted you could get girls, or both but you’ll have lots of babies (that can be a plus). Sponge filters aren’t expensive.

Just find a properly rate air pump for your size, typically they have the rating in the description. You’ll also need a piece of sponge, airline tubing, and an air stone

airline tubing

sponge

You should be able to find airstones for $1-2 at a local fish shop. You’ll also need an air pump rated for your pond size.

Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones

Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS

Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW

Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV

Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90

Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK

Finally at work so I can give some links, lol

Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.

To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.

To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!

Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.

Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)

These are the plugs you want. 1/4" fittings

[This is the type of tubing you use with the plugs. 3/16", close enough am I right? lol] (http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Airline-Tubing-Accessories-25-Feet/dp/B0002563MW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383142677&sr=8-1&keywords=air+pump+tubing)(the clear tubing used for air pumps is a lot easier to work with than the black plastic tubing, which is stiff and likes to bend)

You got a good pump (same as the one you already picked, comes with 5/16" fitting, damn close enough), use plumbers tape and silicone (Waterproof glue) to seal it completely.

Digital timer is good.

I don't think the poly tray will fit all your plants during flower? (you have 4?).

Check out target for different size sterlite containers(for watering trays), those clear plastic ones, see which ones are a good size for you, and home depot/lowes for reservoirs(in the storage section) I don't see those online is the reason.

I would basically set my plants up exactly like in the picture. Tray on top of the reservoir. Drill a hole in the tub cover. Line up the holes, basically what you already presumed.

Picking up the one on the left in this photo might not be too bad of an idea either. If you can find one locally that'd be the cheapest option, hydro stores usually carry them.

Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.

For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html

A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter

An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2

14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1

That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.

I recommend this one make sure you get the large version that has the double sponges. Then you just connect an air pump with some airline tubing

It’s 1/4inch airline tubing, you can buy some on amazon for super cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I plan to grow larger variant tomatoes such as beefsteak and want to make sure this kind of layout and these components will be good enough for that purpose.

Here is the list of components I'm planning to use:

1. Buckets https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPJ4896
   
2. Lids https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C3G5CJ
   
3. Hydroton https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KYYZ9DE
   
4. Nutrients https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708
   
5. pH Control https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY
   
6. pH/TDS Tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J
   
7. Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO9BY
   
8. Water tubing https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DL0Y9O
   
9. Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YF4FI
   
10. Air Stone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9DL67H
    
11. Air Line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW
    
12. Growlight (Already own) Galaxyhydro 300w LED Grow Light Full Spectrum
    
    ​
    
    The remaining plumbing components I need I'll pick up from my local Home Depot.

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

Hiya

I've used them in a bunch of tanks, and I really like them! They are cheap and don't produce a lot of current. They do make a bit of noise (bubbling in the tank, and the air pump can make a buzzing noise).

So if you have a betta that really appreciates low flow, sponge filters area a great option. Here are some good ones

• Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.. DO NOT LEAVE IT TURNED OFF IN THE TANK, since bettas can get stuck trying to "discover" what's in the tube..
  
  
• Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).
  
  
• Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.
  
  You'll also need an air pump (I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve), and some tubing. Some air pumps come with a valve, if not you'll have to order one.
  
  You can also attach a small powerhead to the output of some sponge filters, but that will result in increased flow, and some DIY struggles.
  
  Other internal filters can sometimes be baffled with some filter sponge (stick it over the spray bar or outlet). I use this one in my divided tank, with a sponge covering the spraybar.
  
  Hope this helps :)
  

Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.

Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.

EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.

These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget

Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&colid=74EPT83Y85GU&th=1&psc=1

Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3

Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).

Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511318178&sr=8-3&keywords=air+pump+fish

If I may make a recommendation; buy some of that stuff from amazon. You'll save some money. These are Amazon's prices:

• Aquaclear 50 - $29.60
  
  
• API master test kit - $23.99
  
• Tetra whisper (20gal) - $10.99
  
• 25 feet airline tubing - $5.24
  
  etc
  

OK, so here's one problem - you are not going to get accurate results with test strips. But, I don't know what your finance situation is, so maybe you need to use them for now and anything is certainly better than nothing. If you have a few bucks to spend, get a test kit like this one, which will test much of what you want to know about except water hardness, but this one does that.

Your nitrates aren't bad. Before we talk about things to try, I have to say the following: if you change more than one thing at a time you will never know what's working and what isn't. Try one change at a time, give each change two or three days to make a difference, keep a written record with dates (and time, if you're obsessive like me), and don't just write down what you change. Try to include things you observe, and try to take cell phone pics so you can accurately measure change. Be patient, observe the tank daily, be patient, and try to be patient.

An 8 hour split may be too much with the Nicrew, but it really isn't way overboard. I do a 7 hour split but I have no experience with Nicrews, I have two Finnex Planteds and a BeamsWork, and I don't know when you changed to the Nicrew and your 8 hour regimen. You could try a blackout for a few days, and then back to your current regimen.

If your light is sitting atop your tank you can try raising it a bit. A 10 gallon is what? 12 inches tall? You can jerry rig something to raise the light, or you can get something like this, or you can hang the light from the ceiling with fishing line. If you have aquascaping tweezers you can pull algae out manually, or you can use a toothbrush; not to brush the leaves, but to grab the algae in the bristles and pull it out. I've tried all of these things in different tanks, with good results. I've also used Seachem Excel, but only once or twice a week, not daily as the directions say. It definitely helps, but it isn't a cure and it only kills the algae, like the Algaefix you are already using. If you use Excel, wash your hands afterward. There are some scary and, to my mind not very scholarly, articles on the web about the chemical used in Excel, which Seachem claims is a different isomer than what it actually uses. But wash your hands afterward anyway - it's a simple precaution. Keep this in mind: if you use either one, it will make it harder to tell if the other things you are doing are having any effect. So, maybe bite the bullet for a couple weeks to try the other things, and if you start making headway you can use just a bit of the Algaefix or Excel to help push things along.

You should also consider how heavily planted your tank is. More plant load is better to out-compete the algae. If you have a lot of plants, you also want to provide them with nutrients or the light is next to useless. A good way to increase the plant load inexpensively and relatively fast is floaters. Check the AquaSwap forum here on reddit - /r/AquaSwap/, but keep in mind that you cannot be certain that you will not get snails with the plants, even if the seller claims the plants are dipped before shipping. Snails are not a bad thing, and would probably be helpful for you. Another inexpensive way to beat algae! And, if they get out of hand you just stick a stainless steel fork in a hunk of cucumber, put it in the tank for about two hours, grab a zip-loc baggie and hold it in the tank, grab the fork, put the cucumber and snails in the bag, pull the fork out of the cucumber, and close the bag. Into the garbage with it. It will be covered with snails.

Getting back to the floaters, they will suck up nitrates, provide shade for your anubias, and you'll be pulling handfuls out of the tank in no time (into the garbage! don't take a chance of letting them into the wild by throwing them in your yard). You can keep the floaters corralled with clear air line tubing and suction cups. Make sure the diameter matches, like these do. Cut a length of hose, heat near one end while holding the end so you can pull it until it comes off, leaving a pointy end that you can now stick into the other end of your length of hose, creating a circle. I use the silicon repair stuff to "glue" it together. This guy shows you a better way to do it, in his second video in the series at 2:45. But if you want to get motivated for your algae war, watch the entire series. You will never be the same. And after that, go learn here.

There are a lot more things you can do, but maybe start with these and keep reading about this stuff whenever you get a chance. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out.

Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.

My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.

I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.

I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.

The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.

The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.

To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.

You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.

It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.


tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes

Edit: Also, Watch this video

Air pump Air line Filter

Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.

Yes, I taped an air pump needle to the airline tubing with some duct tape. The air-line with a couple of layers of duct tape will fit snuggly through a water bottle sports cap.

Set up for TWO Axolotls

Realistic initial set up cost $145
(Not including cost of axolotls)

$5-$150 30g tank MINIMUM preferably 40+ (OfferUp Facebook groups Craigslist pet stores)

$1-$130Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 for each (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)

$20-$75 Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump (link of canister filter is what I use in my 55g tank )

Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC

Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7

Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z

SUN 4-Stage Aquarium External Canister Filter with 9 Watt UV Sterilizer 264GPH (HW402B with Pro Filter Kits) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MFCS6W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CVv7AbX67HQED

$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle it helps keeps the water healthy for the axolotls too

API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5

Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 100 Gallon, 250-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY

$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW

$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F

CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6

$5-$20 Aquarium syphon

Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B

Feeding

$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)

Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )

Maintenance

You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit

Keeping the water to the correct temperature

60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees

NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death

Ah just airline tubing, like this

At one point didn't transthetics have the option to buy detachable balls that could be added to their prosthetics? I could have swore that was a thing but looking at their website now I don't see it. It sucks because that would hit everything you want.

I have a couple freetom prosthetics. I've never heard of anyone that offers to add an ejaculation system to posthetics you already have unfortunately. You might be able to DIY some sort of ejaculation system for them? Like if you filled something with lube and put it in the shaft and squeezed the shaft, or maybe put it more in the base with a tube going up the shaft. Using a tube like that would be the only way it could work if you also wanted to use the insertable rod that comes with freetom prosthetics. My first thought is one of those little cake pipette things like these with a tube attached, maybe like this or this? Kind of similar to the idea of combining the peecock pleasure rod with a freetom but hopefully without the problem of pieces of it sticking out or not fitting right, and without having to buy a whole second prosthetic. No idea if that would actually work or not though. I also found this link talking about another method of piecing together different parts of different packers, but using cheaper products, maybe that would work?

What country are you located in?

Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10

Then:

Sponge filter

Air pump tubing

Heater

Thermometer

Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated

What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.

If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.

The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.

ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.

Nah, never skimp out on airstones and filtration. Female bettas are solitary except in very large, heavily planted tanks, they are very aggressive fish too. High quality pellets like hikari pellets should be alternated with frozen food, my bettas usually took both. Flower pot is for a hiding cave, and ducky might be too bright and stress out the fish. Natural decor looks prettier imo than man made stuff anywho, especially if you do it right. Never use test strips, they're expensive and innacurate, liquid test kits are the better option. Basically add seachem stability to the water for as long as it says, and put fish food in to make ammonia for the bacteria to feed on. Once you hit 0 ammonia and nitrite you're good.

For filtration supplies my recommendations are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NP8W84/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5060PXA17HMGYQ77ABQ&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M73HJGY41F3HX940NJJG&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B076S3D75C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539721622&sr=8-4&keywords=small+airstone&dpPl=1&dpID=41QZJrnKZZL&ref=plSrch
And of course seachem prime and stability

10 Gallon pump
V
Check valve
V
Sponge Filter
V
Tubing

The check valve is a one way valve, which keeps water from coming backwards through the hose into the pump. This could happen during a power outage.

Word. You'll also need a small air pump and a length of rubber tubing.

Air Pump

Tubing

You already saw my other comment, but I'll add one more thing here: You might want to consider a small "sponge filter" for a 6.6 gallon tank instead of the hang-over-back filter. Most hang-over-back filters are for 10 gallons or more, so if you can't find a smaller one, just get these materials for a sponge filter:

• a small sponge filter. They look like this.
  
• a small air pump, like this.
  
• "airline" tubing to connect the pump to the filter. Like this.
  
• an airline valve. Like this. You'll need this to lower the amount of air being pumped to the filter. For a 6.6 gallon tank, you don't need much air to keep the tank filtered. Start out with the valve all the way open (lots and lots of bubbles, the tank will look like a hurricane is blowing through). Then, slowly close the valve until the water looks calm and the fishies don't look like they're fighting a current.
  
  The nice thing about sponge filters is you rarely need to clean them. I've run them for over a year without cleaning them and never had an issue. Super convenient.

You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Basic model, very little flow that mostly goes up.

Double spongy action, with an outlet that can be placed above the waterlevel (even less flow!).

Corner filter, has more room for other types of filtermedia, a bit harder to clean depending on what you stuff it with. Has a cute little outlet that prevents our idiots from getting stuck.

I really like this one, it's quiet and comes with a valve

tubing

valve

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