Reddit Reddit reviews Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube

We found 62 Reddit comments about Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube
Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosionPrevents voltage leaks around any electrical connectionExtends the life of bulb socketsRequired for modern high energy ignition systemsSuggested Applications: Marine and automotive electrical connections, spark plug boots, trailer hitches, battery terminals
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62 Reddit comments about Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube:

u/dyniper · 25 pointsr/ouya

How to make trigger buttons smooth as butter:

The problem is that there is no grease on the plastic-on-plastic movement of the triggers. I did that for both my controllers (maybe I should have made a video...):

  1. Remove the 2 face plates and batteries
  2. Remove the 6 screws of the controller and open it up
  3. Get yourself non conducting grease (like this one)
  4. Apply one small dot of grease at all these areas (basically everywhere plastic slides on plastic)
  5. Action the trigger many times to distribute the grease
  6. Re-assemble the controller, and enjoy stick-free triggers.

    I really wish Ouya would have done that first-hand. It is a very easy thing to fix that would not have cost them much... Hope that helps!

    Edit: fixed link
u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar


  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/anthonyooiszewen · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

To quote one of my recent comments about silencing stabilizers:


I've spent tons of time researching and modding stabilizers and here's the method I use to make them as silent as possible:


Let's Build: KBD75 + Zealios 65g (YouTube)
[stabilizer modding starts at 12:11]


What you'll need:

  • Genuine Cherry stabilizers
    • This is the most important component of a silent build. Don't waste your time with the cheap Chinese replicas.
    • Zeal stabilizers are fairly quiet out of the box but not everyone wants to spend that kind of money

  • Finish Line Extreme Fluoro 100% DuPont Teflon Grease

    • Use this for plastic-on-plastic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer housing inner walls)

  • Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease
    • Use this for metal-on-platic contact areas (i.e.: stabilizer wire tips and long side of bends)
    • Some use this for plastic-on-plastic but I hate how it gums and slows everything down; I use this grease mainly to fill up any gaps between the wire and plastic parts of the stabilizer - the primary source of stabilizer rattle.

  • Fabric/cloth bandages
    • This serves two purposes:
      • Fills the gap between the stabilizer housing and the PCB to minimize wobble and thus, rattle (not a problem with screw-in stabs)
      • Cushions the bottoming out of stabilizer inserts. The inserts extend beyond the stabilizer housings when pushed all the way down and strike the surface of the PCB, leading to a loud "clack" and additional vibrations/movement that might cause the metal bits to rattle.

    • We use fabric instead of the water-resistant stuff (or tape) so that it absorbs and holds the dielectric grease.


      This is what they should sound like:
u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/cars

Ok, that's just a run-of-the-mill terminal end. Looks like the (old) battery was leaking acidic fumes at the terminal. My suggestion would be: Clean it thouroughly using a small wire brush or sandpaper, put some terminal grease (whatever it is called in the states, this for example) on generously and reconnect it. Turn on the headlights, high beams and some other stuff in your car without the engine and feel whether the connector gets hot. If not, you're golden. If it does, you can replace this with any terminal adapter that is long enough to reach your ground cable, no need to buy a Chevrolet branded one.

Attention: The white stuff on the terminal is probably lead oxide. Highly toxic, do not breathe in the dust, wash your hands after cleaning or preferably wear gloves.

u/RTB779500 · 5 pointsr/techtheatre

For countryman E6s, we ALWAYS make sure to use the response caps to keep makeup out of the diaphragm. Also, the cables run about $60, as you know. Making sure people are careful with them is our biggest problem here, we burn through cables like candy when we do kids shows.

For especially sweaty actors we like to use dielectric silicone ( to seal the connection between the headset and the cable. Keeps everything nice and waterproof but still conducting.

I have owned a set of 12 E6s for about 8 years now, they very rarely fail on me. But replacement cables are a MUST!

u/MWisBest · 4 pointsr/Cubers

If anybody is looking for a cheap and effective cube lubricant you can buy in local stores, dielectric grease is working fantastic for me. I always have some around for working on cars anyway. It's essentially pure silicone (PDMS), safe to use on plastic and rubber etc. A little bit goes a long way.

u/Ophidios · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure thing! I used this case, this plate, this foam, switches are a combination of this and this, I used genuine Cherry stabilizers from here, lubed the switches with a mix from Mehkee as well, lubed my stabilizers with this, and used this keycap set.

That should just about cover it. :)

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/txzman · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Most grease like the one you have is NOT dielectric - ie it still conducts electricity. So if your PCB comes into contact with the grease while it is touching anything you will have a short. Here's what you need -

You can also pick up cheap dielectric grease at any auto store for cheap.

u/JadsPure2 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube

This makes a really good super thick lube for stabs, you'll just wanna brush the wire, stem, the part the stem rubs against and the part the wire clips into. Clip the stabilizers while you're at it too and only use authentic cherry pcb mount stabs. Don't use dielectric grease for anything other than stabs, super thick

u/Teedacus · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm no expert, but I think some people use dielectric grease, like this

u/JaffC · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can get rid of some of the pinging with some dielectric grease like this

u/Goguma- · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I believe that board uses costar stabs, which are notorious for having really loud spacebar rattle (actually any kind of modifier key that is longer than 2u). You can try taking off the spacebar to confirm if it is.

If it is costar, then try taking the wire out and using dielectric grease to dampen the rattle. Just dip the ends of the wire into the grease.

u/poochzag · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I made the same mistake as you in the past. The oil works ok for the plastic-plastic contacts of the stabilizers though. But for lubing the bar, a thicker dialetric grease is ideal

The superlube dialetric grease you linked is probably fine. This is the exact one I use though, as recommended by Nathan Kim

u/GobHoblin87 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Update: After much research and unfruitful trips to Lowes and Walmart, I finally found the right grease. Pure silicone grease but under the name dielectric grease, and at a great price ($5 for 3oz.)

u/ponchofreedo · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards you go. finish line comes in the syringe, which makes it easy to apply some to the stabilizer housing so you can brush it. taeha types does a good video using this grease combo.

finish line -
permatex -

u/ripster55 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not that aerosol can. Get that little .33 oz tube with the handy dispensing nozzle.

If you want to splurge get the lifetimex10 tube.

Previous must have r/MechanicalKeyboard toolkit items:

ITEM #3 - clean your dirty keys with denture tabs:

ITEM #2: Contact Cleaner for that inevitable liquid spill:

ITEM #1: A key puller for cleaning and putting some spiffy new keys on your new keyboard:

u/_circa84 · 2 pointsr/f150

I would put some dielectric grease on all the connectors, it's fast and cheap. It's possible you just have bad connection from grim on them or corrosion over time and the new bulbs touching the contacts on a bit different part. That bad connection could have also made them fail prematurely too.

Can usually find at automotive places for a few bucks. Not sure why so expensive on

u/RectangularRug · 2 pointsr/subaru

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

u/fizzymynizzy · 2 pointsr/hondafit

It is a non conductive grease that prevent rust, oxidation, dirt, and corrosion. "Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. " this is the one I use Scotty Kilmer also uses it . I use it it for the headlights, turn signal, side markers, fog lights, I also use it on the dome map lights, and I put it on 1 fuse blade, and I put some on the battery terminal. I do recommend getting disposable gloves. I wear XL winter gloves. But the disposable is smaller. Read the reviews first. People might might say get one size higher. So next time I will get XXL gloves.

u/lesziii · 2 pointsr/keyboards

This stuff does work but makes dries out rather easily.
I'd push you down the way of this.
Dielectric Grease|Permatex 22058:

This is what you should be using as it's meant for electronic purposes. Not all multi-purpose greases are going to work well with switches and it really wouldn't be worth the risk.

u/Veryfancydoily · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is good for stabs (not switches) and is usually at places like AutoZone if you want to get it locally and not order online.

u/enomele · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

In the Nathan Kim stabilizer lube video he uses Permatex 22058 Dielectric grease for Metal on Plastic scenario. I read somewhere on Reddit someone said that he since switched to using Kyrtox 205 in the the whole stabilizer tho.

I found some Permatex 22058 on Amazon UK. Not sure if that's expensive, I think it's roughly how much I paid in US. I do put some Krytox or Tribosys on the plastic on plastic parts tho.

u/werteen1 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks for answering my questions. I guess I need to order 20 more Zilent switches since that's the minimum order.

> Krytox 106

I'm only able to find a bottle on Amazon for $235 bucks. Can you link somewhere that has a smaller amount?

> dielectric grease

Is this the correct product?

u/1bitwonder · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have some impressions after using the keyboard for a day:

  • The tackiness of the dycem totally affects the travel and the sound (but the sound is pretty quiet relative to the thock). Since it's sticky it takes a tiny bit of extra force to press each key.
  • I'm still not sure if I like the extra force required on each key. It's not the original topre force curve any more, if you want to be a purist about it. It honestly feels fine for now. It kinda just feels like the tops of the sliders are sticky. It's not the best but I think I could get used to it. I'm too lazy to try some other material...
  • There's a bit of a "warm-up time" with the keyboard in the morning because the Dycem had hours to get stuck to the housing and sliders.
  • There is very little wobble in the keys now, probably because the dycem is a non-slip material.
  • I used cheap dielectric grease to lube my stabilizers. I just put a little bit on a toothpick and put that toothpick in where the metal and the plastic met. It makes an enormous difference in the sound of the board. I'll probably get some thinner lube for the rest of the keyboard at some time in the future.
  • If anybody is going to try to silence their Topre keyboard with their own rings (not hyperspheres), one of the most important things to look for is consistency in thickness of the material. A lot of cheaper foam providers have pretty poor tolerances.
  • I missed OEM/cherry profile so much. I've been typing on DSA/SA keycaps for the past couple of years, and this profile is so much easier for me to type on.
u/sd59fifty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually didn't have that problem with mine :/ My only problem was the stabs wobbling like crazy, but i'r pretty sure some nice lube will fix that. I got this from amazon. Probably wayyy too much for my needs but at least i know i will never run out haha

u/cfiggis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the stems, I use Krytox 1514. You can get a 3ml vial at mehkee for not much. (That's enough to lube all the switches on a full size board, but it's the smallest amount you'll find.)

For the wires (where the metal wires meet the plastic stabilizer) I use delectric grease that I got from Amazon:

As for how to do it, there are videos on youtube that show you, but basically you use the thinner Krytox on the black plastic where the stem rubs against the housing. (Wherever there's friction). The thicker grease goes where the metal meets the plastic and keeps it from rattling around. Make sure you use dielectric grease because it's non-conductive. You don't want to short out anything on your PCB.

u/viverator · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee


The original terminals on the HO are cheap shit. I had to literally hammer mine on and use dialectic grease to get a good connection.

Tighten them as best you can, then use a socket of suitable size the get equal pressure when lightly tapping down until they have no wiggle left. Don't smash them on as you may break something. And use dialectic grease.

$6.99 on Amazon

u/vaultwanderer94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the board in that sound clip, I used -

  • Tribosys 3204 for the stem(where it slides against the housing, lubing the contact legs on tactile switches tends to be a big no-no).

  • Dielectric Grease on the springs, just a very small dab on each end of the spring so it doesn't resonate through the housing.

    I'd recommend a thinner lube though, like the Tribosys 3203 in the product page I linked, as that's a lube more suited for tactile switches normally. I like thicker lubes though, so I use 3204. It's all down to preference.

    Sidenote: As per Taeha Types' Zealios V2 review, he explains that the contact legs of the V2's can be lubed, but I'd recommend against it if it's your first time lubing. Lube can be finicky to work with sometimes, and over-lubing contact legs on tactile switches can completely negate the tactility if you aren't careful.
u/Ace_Entity · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

yeah I can't imagine the dielectric grease I used for my stabs flowing out of them, it's very thick. Here's the one I use.

u/MediocreBadGuy23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah I've got some stab lube I've been using that seems alright. It's a small grey tube I got from Amazon. Might be called permatex?

Edit: I think it's this stuff

u/Rawrr_dinosaurs · 1 pointr/subaru

When I got my old outback I went out and played in the mud and whenever I went through a big puddle the engine would miss a beat every once and a while for a minute or two. So I went through the entire engine and put dielectric grease in all the electrical plugs and that solved my problem. Maybe something to try

u/maltose66 · 1 pointr/funny
u/spike_africa · 1 pointr/cars

Getting rid of the rust in a socket is pretty impossible. You can however apply this.

And your socket will work again in most cases. If not you need to cut off the connector and splice in a new one.

u/Peripheral_Installer · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabs (stab housing/stem) your best bet is krytox 205, you can get a half oz tube for 20 bucks on amazon.. That is going to yield better results, trust me..

205 is also amazing on linears.. I wouldnt use anything less or any other brand, especially a 'custom mix' that has oil mixed in...oil doesnt last as long.. you want grease because it doesnt have the fluidity of oil, lasts much longer..

For tactiles/clicky 202-204 depending on spring weight

For the stab bar inserts

u/nekocaps · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got a tube of this from Amazon (it's a ton). Not sure if it's the best out there but its dielectric and the price is right.

u/greatcaffeine · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've seen ripster link to this lube in the past. Might want to check that out.

u/Mortal_Scum · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This stuff. Apply a thin coating to all areas of friction. Enjoy in good health.

u/wwwarrensbrain · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

This is your friend for all electrical connections on a boat:

u/UMDSmith · 1 pointr/FordFocus

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there.

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned:

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

u/hbard · 1 pointr/crtgaming

This is just extra info as I don't know where the arcing is coming from: I've read in an old forum post that if the anode cap isn't secured for whatever reason there can be arcing. When I reattached the last cap I used a bead of this grease underneath for a good seal:

u/Jolly_Green_Giant · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For stabilizer lube, I went with this which is much cheaper and is listed as one of the lube suggestions in the wiki over there >>>>

u/tally_in_da_houise · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used Permatex's Dielectric Grease (Amazon link). That's way more than I'll need (smaller amount here).

Here's /u/ripster55 's [guide on Keyboard Lubes] ( if you have any questions. I used this when I first lubed mine.

u/The-fish · 1 pointr/LifeProTips


I use dielectric grease it was recommended in my owners manual of my car. I wipe it on the rubber molding that is either on the door or the door frame. Apply a fine coat with a rag, removing any excess.

u/09RaiderSFCRet · 1 pointr/motorcycles

You also possibly installed a higher wattage bulb than stock, I would get some dielectric grease and lubricate the socket and the pins on your new bulb because it’ll help dissipate the heat. It will also help make the connector more waterproof. Be careful to remove any and all contaminants from the glass part the lightbulb after you use this. Even your fingerprints on the glass will make the bulb burn out sooner.

u/davey94 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

would this lube be fine for lubing cherry stabs? or finish line?

u/baby_feet · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Try local at auto parts stores. The other favorite is Super Lube 21030 but people on discord have been grumbling about it drying out, saying use 92003 or Krytox 205. I personally don't have much experience with lubing stabilizers.

u/MustacheRabbit · 1 pointr/Trackballs

I modified mine by taking out the magnet the first day I got it (and yes it does void the warranty).

I ordered this lube to modify it as well as some other peripherals, but it isn't that expensive (considering the cost of the trackball).

I definitely would recommend the modification and lubrication of the device, it made the trackball feel like it costs, rather than feel like a $50 toy.

Edit: I didn't just use the dri film above as lubricant. I also used some permatex grease I had lying around to make it seem like a heavier scroll wheel, rather than a light plastic one.

u/BookishCipher · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease Tube was a suggestion I got from a YouTuber and it works really well so far. A bit expensive but you don't use a lot so lasts forever.




Also for plastic on plastic lube (the stems of the stabilizers, do not use inside of switches) this:

u/riskymilk · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube

u/artist508 · 0 pointsr/airsoft

Diaelectric paste can help a little. Heatsink compound doesn't like to move around.

u/DonnieJTrump · -1 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Check the coolant temperature sensor. This Youtube video will lead you in the right direction in swapping it out, and they are fairly cheap. Basically theres 3 wires coming from it - A ground, a wire that controls the gauge, and a wire that tell the ECU when to turn on the fan.

This is what I would do to avoid doing the same job twice: Buy the sensor. If you don't need it you can always return it. When you get to the point of removing the old sensor, check the connector for corrosion. At this point if the connector looks corroded, it's probably the plug and that would either need replaced, see here. I would try to clean it real good with a good electronic cleaner with an old toothbrush, and add some Dielectric grease to it to keep it from corroding. Plug it back in and see if that helps. If you're having the same issues after that, then I would replace the sensor and go from there. If that doesnt do it, then its something with the wired connection between the sensor and the ECU, or the ECU itself.

u/danekan · -3 pointsr/techsupport
u/Gucharmula · -5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Dielectric Grease for $7 is probably your best bet.