Reddit Reddit reviews PetSafe Egg-Cersizer Interactive Toy and Meal Dispenser, Use with Food or Treats - PTY00-13747,Blues & Purples

We found 20 Reddit comments about PetSafe Egg-Cersizer Interactive Toy and Meal Dispenser, Use with Food or Treats - PTY00-13747,Blues & Purples. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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PetSafe Egg-Cersizer Interactive Toy and Meal Dispenser, Use with Food or Treats - PTY00-13747,Blues & Purples
ENRICH: Watch your cat's natural instincts come alive; unique egg shape makes it roll unpredictably for more funDISHWASHER SAFE: Top rack onlyAge Range Description: all agesIncluded Components: Premier FunKitty Egg-cersizerEXERCISE: Combines mealtime with exercise to improve weight loss and fight obesityPERSONALIZE: Convenient adjustable openings work for many kibble sizes and allow you to control how quickly your cat gets her foodIMPROVE DIGESTION: Great for eager eaters; Egg-Cersizer distributes meals into several smaller portions, making dinner easier on your cat's stomachVERSATILE: Can be used for fun with treats or as a daily feederHERE TO HELP: Call, email or chat with our expert U.S.-based customer care specialists six days a week; they are ready to assist you and your pet with your product needsEXPERIENCE: PetSafe has been an industry leading U.S. manufacturer of pet behavior, containment and lifestyle products since 1991, helping millions of people and pets each year
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20 Reddit comments about PetSafe Egg-Cersizer Interactive Toy and Meal Dispenser, Use with Food or Treats - PTY00-13747,Blues & Purples:

u/graceadee · 138 pointsr/dechonkers

Some ideas that have worked for my anxious kitty who also didn’t like exercise:

Feliway brand pheromone spray and collar (or any of their other products). It helps the cats feel calm and humans can’t smell them. https://www.feliway.com/us

A timed auto feeder. My cat has harassed auto feeders instead of me, which is a nice break for me.

Indoor hunting feeder (like this brand https://docandphoebe.com/). It mixes exercise and play with food because the cat has to seek out where their food is hidden.

“Puzzle” feeders like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Interactive-Dispenser-Treats/dp/B003H44R5K. Like the hunting feeder, the cat will have to work at least a bit to get his food.

Lots of toys for exercise! I sew mini pillows (about the size of your palm) and fill them with catnip and crinkly paper in addition to normal polyester pillow stuffing. I hide them around the house for the cats to find. They love them and they’re very cheap to make with scrap fabric.

I’ve also introduced more rewards that aren’t food related. Our one cat (Spud) needed to lose quite a bit of weight. It was hard because I love to give him treats when he’s sweet. I started giving him bits of catnip, cat grass, toys, extra cuddles, and brushing him instead. He now has more things he associates with positive behavior that aren’t treats!

I wish you the best!!

u/nopooq · 9 pointsr/RATS

I wouldn’t worry too much about them during the day, as long as they get to do some sort of activity at night like free roaming in the living room or bathroom, or getting access to some fun toys.


To keep them amused, I would recommend taking a look at this page: http://karasratworld.tumblr.com/post/75017549861/rat-toy-masterpost which features a lot of great ideas for cheap, do-it-yourself toys for rats that you can make. I find that my rats are generally not interested in the ferret and cat toys I buy them from the pet store. Same with stuffed animals I give them. Cheap toys that my rats enjoy include: small cardboard boxes that fit in their cage - I will open one end of the box and put the open end on the floor, so that the box is upside down. They love bringing in paper towels and fabric scraps into the box and making a nest. My rats also love paper bags. Big brown paper bags from the grocery store, or small brown paper bags for packing lunch. They will also treat it as a little ‘cave’ or ‘den’ and bring paper towels into it to shred into a comfortable, warm rat nest that they then sleep on. It’s really cute, and it’s cheap! These generally need to be thrown out after 1-2 days because they will be urinated on, and a rat sleeping inside a paper bag isn’t receiving terribly great ventilation and will probably be inhaling the ammonia from the urine. Tissue boxes are also much enjoyed by my rats. I rip out the clear plastic lining surrounding the tissue hole before giving it to them, so that they can’t accidentally eat any of it when they chew up the box. I also like to give my rats paper towel or toilet paper roll cores for them to chew on or curiously poke their head into. My baby rat used to be able to walk through them too!


My rat also enjoyed this toy. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H44R5K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was recommended by another rat owner. It’s basically a toy with 3 holes, and you can turn the top half of the toy to control how many of these holes are open (1, 2, or all 3) and how big the openings are (half open, fully open, etc). You can put little treats in there. Treat recommendations include: home popped popcorn (microwave popcorn is covered in tons of unhealthy additives and flavorings), NON-sugary cereals, organic baby food “cereals” or puffs, sunflower seeds (in moderation!), maybe some sort of non-messy fruit like small blueberries. When I used to feed dry rat food to my rat, I would put the kibble bits into this toy and give it to her at night, so she had something to entertain herself with.


Other easy enrichment ideas include: nuts in shell. Just try to make sure they aren’t salted, and that they aren’t raw (unless soaked/sprouted). Brazil nuts in shell, peanuts in shell, pistachios, etc. They will have fun chewing off the shell to get the nut inside, and the chewing will allow them to wear down their teeth, which are always continuously growing. I want to say, however, that if your rats are sick with mycoplasma, you my want to avoid giving them nuts or seeds. Nuts and seeds are high in an amino acid called arginine, which has been said to trigger mycoplasma outbreaks. For this reason, my pink eyed white rat no longer gets sunflower seeds/nuts (but she gets plenty of other healthy treats!)


Regarding the sneezing:
Are you keeping them in a plastic storage container? With a lid of some sort? If so, the lack of ventilation may be contributing to the sneezing. Many rat fanatics are against keeping rats in glass tanks (the same ones used as fish aquariums), even if the top is covered in a wire mesh or open to the air, because they feel that having 4 solid walls hinders ventilation too much for it to be healthy. If you are keeping them in a bin with 4 solid walls (as opposed to in a wire cage where air flows through their 4 walls and ceiling easily), then their sneezing may be due to the lack of ventilation. More specifically, ammonia from their urine can irritate their respiratory systems. Pet rats are commonly said to have very sensitive respiratory systems, and unfortunately, rats are very prone to having a certain respiratory infection called mycoplasma. Mycoplasma is said to be so common in rats, that they every rat you come across will have it - UNLESS you specifically obtained a rat from a laboratory that was bred to be mycoplasma-free (a process which involves submersing the mother in an antiseptic and birthing her babies via sterile C-section, thereby sacrificing the mother’s life to keep her babies mycoplasma-free). A symptom to watch out for (aside from sneezing) is the buildup of a red substance on their face (especially around their eyes and nostrils) called porphyrin. Porphyrin is present in their mucus and saliva, and when a rat is sick with mycoplasma or stressed out, porphyrin buildup is commonly seen on their face. If you find this, I would recommend trying to get them into a better ventilated cage, cleaning their cage or changing their bedding more often (try to keep the amount of urine in the cage low by switching out towels more often, etc), giving them more fresh fruits and veggies (generally, if it’s a fruit/veggie that humans can eat raw, then female rats should be fine to have it too. Male rats should not be given citrus or mangos.)


I have two female rats - one is white with pink eyes. The other has black eyes and black and white fur. I notice that my pink-eyed-white wakes up and becomes active at 7:30pm, and is active all night until around 6am, when she becomes sleepy and goes to bed. When I stay home from work, she sleeps ALL day and the cage is super quiet until she wakes up at 7:30pm. My black eyed rat is a little younger, so she is more active, even during the daytime - but I am not sure if this difference is due to her youth or her eye color. (I specify their eye color because I have read that albino rats have a different REM sleep pattern. Source: http://www.ratbehavior.org/AlbinoPigmented.htm However, not all pink eyed whites are albino. Albino and pink eyed whites are not the same thing.) If your lady rats are anything like my pink eyed white, then they will likely be sleeping all day, so I would not worry about leaving them home. To further ease your concern, I want to say that I worked from home until I recently started having to go into the office for a 9-5 job, and I was also worried about my rats feeling neglected… until I learned their sleep patterns, and was able to confirm during my days off that my ratites are sleeping all day anyway. :)


To keep them entertained when they are awake, please consider trying some of the toy ideas in the website I linked above. It’s not my website, but I have definitely taken ideas from it that my rats enjoyed. The best toys are not necessarily the expensive ones or the ones that are time consuming to make. In my experience, my rats have enjoyed playing in things that would have gone into the garbage (boxes, paper bags, wrapping paper) more than the toys I bought them from the pet store.
If your rats are litter trained (which isn’t hard to do at all! but that’s a post for another day) and you have a spacious, rat proof bathroom where they cannot damage your items or escape, then a low effort way to exercise their bodies and minds may be to just leave their cage open in the bathroom, and throw some toys/boxes around the floor and let them explore. Maybe hide some food in there for them to find. Just be sure to rat proof the bathroom or remove things you don’t want them chewing on (toilet plunger, bottle of bleach toilet cleaner, bath rug, etc). Close the toilet seat so they don’t fall in.

u/sunrisesunbloom · 7 pointsr/Pets

It's not good for a cat to be fat. It can cause health problems down the line. He also needs to stop eating human food and hot dogs; get him down to scheduled feeding twice a day. Make sure you're measuring out exactly how much he's actually supposed to be eating.

One tip I have is to try a meal dispenser like the Egg-Cersizer, which makes cats work a bit to get their food.

u/anneomoly · 5 pointsr/AskVet

If she's on dry food: toys that you can put food into. For an overweight cat, sometimes play to eat is the only play they want to do, initially (you might find this changes as she loses weight). I literally bought something like this for mine and it really helped to get her just doing a little bit more moving and interacting and little less sitting on her ass.

Secondly, weigh the food as much as you can. Doing it by the cup tends to mean you underestimate what you're feeding, even if you've got a cup with measuring marks on.

Thirdly, for motivation, a weigh in and measure her stomach size every month with a tape measure. Sometimes, it comes off their waist more noticeably than it comes off their weight. Stick it in your calendar. Get her a little (non food!) treat if you both do well. Sometimes it really helps to have goals, even if it's just "if she weighs less two months in a row, she gets a new ball".

u/CBML50 · 2 pointsr/dogs

It was similar to this

u/unsafeword · 2 pointsr/CatAdvice

I like the puzzle idea. I'm a fan of this thing - it's a mainstream brand, so you can probably find it or a knock off in the local pet store without waiting for delivery. Putting regular dry food plus a couple treats in there should stretch meal time out for half an hour or more.

You might also consider plugging a Feliway infuser into a bathroom outlet. The hissing is probably in part because of the change in surroundings, part because you're unfamiliar, but also part because this cat can smell your own cat. That all adds up to a lot of stress. Feliway is supposed to calm cats, especially in new multi-cat situations.

Also, try not to hold eye contact with kitty if there's a lot of stress. Your face is unfamiliar. The cat won't know what your resting face looks like until he's seen you chilling for a while, so he can't read your intentions or mood at all.

u/Foostering · 2 pointsr/aww

I tried treat balls similar to these:
meal ball
treat egg

He thought those were ok but he really loves when I put the treats somewhere he can put his whole arm in (I don't know why) like this:
mouse maze

He gets really into it and will dive bomb the maze and shove his arms as deep inside as he can. It slides around on the floor with him. The larger holes means some pieces come out very easily but enough get stuck/move around that he spends 20min+ trying to get every last piece out. He even uses his paws to cup pieces and lift them out.

u/heresyandpie · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Is getting him a companion an option? Our rabbits have become very content getting affection from each other, instead of obsessively demanding it from us when we're not available.

Wild rabbits maintain a range of 3-10 acres and live in social groups. This is what they're hardwired to want, so making them live solitary lives in small cages, with limited opportunities to forage and explore mean that we have smart little creatures who are lonely, bored, and full of energy. Factor in their crepuscular natures, and it's really a marvel that anybody with a pet rabbit gets to sleep at all.

Try to increase his exercise during the day and provide more stimulation to mimic what he'd get in a more natural habitat.

More run time and more exploration of new areas and spaces (even just rooms he's unfamiliar with) can give him much needed stimulation.

Increase his forage opportunities: If he gets pellets, try feeding them in a puzzle toy ([like this]{http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Meal-Dispensing-Cat/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1417559491&sr=8-10&keywords=kibble+dispensing+toy}) so that he has to exert himself to get them. Similarly, we'll sometimes crumple the end of a cardboard tube, put pellets in, and then stuff the other side with crumpled paper or hay.

Getting up and feeding him to make him quiet down will only teach him that if he makes enough noise, he'll get what he wants.

u/LoveaBook · 2 pointsr/CatAdvice

Try a free-feeding puzzle feeder. My cat got to a chonking 16 pounds (which is large for her size). We purchased a Catit puzzle feeder and she lost the weight in a few months. And she’s maintained herself at a perfect (for her) weight of 8.5 lbs for over 2 years now. Because my girl is a natural borne ✨Diva✨ my husband was against it at first, but it’s cheap, so...what’s to lose? I spent a couple minutes poking my fingers in and knocking bits down to show her the idea and she took to it like a fish to water. We now have a second one, of a different style and different maker, that we put elsewhere in the house and fill with a different flavor/type of food. Both my cats love them. The idea is to prevent them from easily eating too much when bored and to make eating more stimulating, like a hunt.

They can eat as much as they want for as long as they want, but they have to earn every last kibble of it. My (former) fat cat seemed to live in front of the feeder at first - knocking food down most of her waking hours. But now it’s just a few times a day, and maybe a single tablespoon’s worth of food at a time.

This is another Catit puzzle feeder. They also have a variety of puzzle feeder toys - if you’re OK with bits of kibble all over the house. This is just one example.

(We actually just had to put our former chonker on a special renal diet. (She’s 18). We picked her favorite puzzle feeder and changed just it to the new, specialty food and left the normal food in the other. My two girls haven’t had a stitch of trouble telling which is which. I think the only downside - as they see it - is that they’ve lost the diversity of two feeders. (According to the stuff I’ve read, they recommend multiple feeders spaced around the house to engage their instinct to search out food.) But I’ll be damned if I’m going to have multiples for each type of food spaced around the house. After all, there’s only so much room in my house.)

u/aossey · 2 pointsr/OKBestFace

> ShutUpYou'reNotDyingThereIsFoodInYourBowl

My vet suggested I start feeding my dude with this egg toy that only dispenses the food when played with. Sebastian totally doesn't get it, and is just mega pissed and meowy at me all the time now, until I give him a pity scoop of food in a bowl.

u/speakstruth · 1 pointr/Rabbits

haha that's adorable. They were both like OMG it's over THERE.

I have this one for mine and they just go nuts with it.

u/kaevne · 1 pointr/cats

In the morning, I give the 11 year old prescription Y/D dry cat food in a bowl because she has thyroid issues. I give the 5 year old Orijen in an Eggcersizer ball (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Egg-Cersizer-Meal-Dispensing-Cat/dp/B003H44R5K) so it takes him longer to eat and gives the 11 year old time to finish her food or he steals it.

At night, I give them canned Y/D cat food and canned Weruva Paw Licken Chicken in spearate bowls.

The 11-year-old female was easy, she would eat anything I put in front of her. The 5-year-old kirkland addict, I had to transition to wet food slowly in this order over 2 months:

  1. Kirkland Free fed
  2. Kirkland 2 meals/day
  3. Kirkland mixed with Orijen 25%-75% over ~3 weeks.
  4. Orijen
  5. Orijen mixed with Fancy Feast Pate 25% to 75% over 1 week. I found he'd only eat Fancy feast, everything else he wouldn't touch.
  6. Fancy Feast and sometimes Friskies. Both Pate. He wouldn't eat the non-Pate types.
  7. After 1 month of this, I put down Weruva (Luckily at this point, he would just eat the Weruva and did not need mixing).

    A couple days a month I will randomly give him Wellness or Nature's Variety to make sure he doesn't get picky.

    The 11-year-old gets free-fed Y/D dry now because she's severely underweight. I transitioned her into eating it with coconut oil mixed in. Just enough that it keeps the 5-year-old from eating it but she'll still eat it.
u/kalechipsyes · 1 pointr/Advice

I had a cat that became like this because my father got so annoyed by her meows that he would feed her every time she meowed just to shut her up. It did not work, because she just became conditioned that meows = food, and so, by the end of her life, she was just constantly meowing.

If he is going to meow anyway, I would say that it is worth limiting his food. A few weeks of dramatics should eventually fade off as he learns that it will not work. Cats are very smart animals - smarter than dogs, in some ways. They are highly trainable.

You can also try one of the many devices on the market that require the cat to "work" for its food, e.g. this ball that lets out just a little food at a time. Start slowly cutting down on his food as you add more and more kibble or treats to this ball.

We taught our cat to do tricks. The first thing that we did was to teach him to sit, and so now he always does this (sits politely in front of his food bowl or by your chair) when he wants food.

It is also worth mentioning that dry food is actually more fattening and less healthy than canned food, so a partial switch may be in order.

Lastly, you can try switching to an automatic feeder, so that humans are removed almost entirely from the equation entirely. This may help to rewire his conditioning.

Anyhow, best of luck!

Edit: I want to add that skin conditions are pretty common in obese cats. They may not be able to reach all of their fur to keep it clean. Having unkempt fur and skin that he can't reach would be very, very uncomfortable for your cat, and may be part of what is making him so miserable. There are wipes on the market that would allow you to clean the affected area for him, or you could consider giving him a bath every once and a while (I know, I know, but it is possible to ease him into the process). You can also try giving him a little plain olive oil every once and a while. This is safe for cats, can be good for their skin and coats just like it is for humans, and they sometimes really like the flavor. My cat has some very dry and damaged paw pads from his prior life as a stray, and so we put this stuff on his paws every once and a while. He will also eat it mixed into his food.

u/RobotPigOverlord · 1 pointr/Rabbits

Don't cut out pellets they are fortified with important vitamins and minerals.

Try putting pellets in this to make them work for it

PetSafe Egg-Cersizer Meal Dispensing Cat Toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_O5dGwb8E0451N

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Its a little over, but free shipping

its a golden snitch necklace

edit: also, a cat lover myself

u/Ultracoustic · 1 pointr/cats

How fast does your cat eat? My cat, who is just a month older than yours, will nearly inhale his food if we feed him from a bowl. He will swallow too much air doing this and rip the nastiest farts as all that air passes through him. We got him one of these to help him slow down. Now he spends 15-20 minutes eating instead of gobbling all his food in under a minute. His bad gas has disappeared.

As for the smelly poop, I mean.... It's poop. Poop stinks. Just like some people have really smelly poop, some cats just have really smelly poop. One of my in-law's cats poop stinks so bad it can clear a room. But their other two cat's poops stink just a normal amount. My cat's poop stinks pretty bad.

u/hisshissmeow · 1 pointr/Pets

Okay, I have a few bits of advice for you.

First things first, I know it's hard to do emotionally, but you've got to stop leaving dry food out for your cats all day. I had a professor once who was a cat behaviorist and he put it like this, "People feed horses like they should feed cats, and cats like they should feed horses." Meaning that horses are grazers and should have food all day, not just at certain times of the day. On the opposing side, cats are hunters and should be fed only at certain times of day, and not have food out constantly (which should also help with weight management for your kitty darlings in general, since it's so important to keep them at a healthy weight as they get older anyway!) AND this SHOULD make your roomie's cat less interested in getting into your room-if he realizes there is no reward on the other side of the door.

ALSO-as far as your room-mate's cat goes, you're right, she shouldn't be giving him tastes. Not just for your sake and your kitties' sake, but for her own cat's sake as well. Human food can be bad for kitties for a number of reasons and it's safest just to keep him away from it. Not to mention, like you said, it teaches him bad manners.

Now here's the tough part. It may sound ridiculous but obviously you need to talk to your roomie about this situation, which is conflict and awkward and horrible to deal with, I know. I really recommend looking up and doing some reading today on how to talk to people while avoiding conflict. There's stuff all over the internet about it, and it's a bit too hard for me to explain. Basically, not only is it a good life skill to have, but obviously you want to be able to talk to her about it without her getting upset or feeling personally attacked. Because cats are like your children, and people can easily get offended when they feel their "parenting" is being criticized. So I really, really, really recommend looking up just some general communication tips so you can talk this over with her without it being awkward or confrontational.

Also, here are some things that MAY help if you mention when you're talking to her (disclaimer: I don't know her, so you may have to cherry-pick things here that you think would help convince her):
-I don't know if her cat is overweight, but I think it's important to mention that even though fat cats are adorable and wonderful and everything, it's really not in their best interests to be overweight; just as with humans. Having a healthier relationship with food will help keep him at a healthy weight and can really help him live longer, as well as save her money (him maintaining a healthy weight can really keep down diseases and other things that cost lots of money.)
-I'd suggest this cat get fed separately from his brother, and given a toy such as this one:

http://www.redferret.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/e96a_stimulo_cat_bowl.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Aikiou-Stimulo-Activity-Center-Green/dp/B00D91CQMW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N


http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-Catch-Interactive-Feeder-Cats/dp/B00EB4IV2A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_petsupplies_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QE1JPXJM0J0SEXG885N

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fg-ec2.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FG%2F01%2Fkolpakov%2Forangeslimcat._V398607070_.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FPetsafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue%2Fdp%2FB0018CG40O&h=475&w=425&tbnid=eW1exz5JYvZ6FM%3A&zoom=1&docid=ZJge0SV6zuaQ1M&ei=-OAnVPjaF4f4yAS13oCgDg&tbm=isch&ved=0CCwQMygOMA4&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1275&page=1&start=0&ndsp=20

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003H44R5K/ref=gl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VQZ0PRAGLUYB&coliid=I12NBLS87B4NXX

All of those are designed to slow a cat down while eating, while at the same time giving them the same mental stimulation that comes with play. This would make him eat slower, which is better for weight management as well as helping him to feel full and satisfied (if he ever does) and would keep him occupied enough for everyone else to finish eating before he could even think of getting to them. Not to mention it's fun for them! I don't know if you're willing to do this, but you could buy one of those options and give it to her as a gift, under the presumption that it is so he will leave his brother alone (I'm sure since they're both her children she probably doesn't like it when he bosses the brother around). It really is probably best to feed him alone, to prevent him from getting into anyone else's business and also would make life easier for your roomie, too.

Sorry about the book I just wrote.