Reddit reviews Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub Splitter (480 Mbps, USB 2.0, Compatible with Windows, Linux, macOS, Chrome OS)
We found 11 Reddit comments about Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub Splitter (480 Mbps, USB 2.0, Compatible with Windows, Linux, macOS, Chrome OS). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
FEATURES - The USB2-2PORT has a clean and compact design. This standard USB hub enables two devices to share a single available USB port with full USB 2.0 compatibility and performance.COMPATIBILITY - Works with USB 3.0, 2.0, or 1.1 host controllers and devices on Windows, Mac, and Linux/Unix computers at USB 2.0 speeds. Transfer rates are device and USB host controller dependent. Fully plug and play, devices can be hot-plugged.DESIGN - Sleek piano black finish. Ultra compact, travel friendly design with a built-in 12-inch USB cable. Apple notes: Note that some Apple devices such as the Apple SuperDrive look for Apple-specific signaling and will not work when connected through any USB hub.NOTE - USB bus powered, requires no additional AC power. This hub is intended for low or self powered devices. *USB Hub is not for charging and is not compatible with automotive USB ports. Functions as a USB hub only and will NOT charge devices.WARRANTY - We love our Plugable products and hope you will too. All of our products are backed with a 2-year limited parts and labor warranty and Seattle-based email support.
The items used:
Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.
http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer
http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage
http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card
http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter
http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub
A total of around ~$90
Edit
If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic
Very easy.
You can find a pre made build online and just copy it to a flash drive and it’s good to go. As long as the drive is plugged in, the hack works. Power off the system and unplug the drive and it’s back to stock.
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Here’s what I can confirm works flawlessly with my PlayStation Classic
Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vnIhDbF1WEZNK
Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter (480 Mbit/s, USB 2.0 Windows, Linux, OS X, Chrome OS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7nIhDbXBKWQ2S
I’m pretty sure I can’t link directly to the site with the pre made build, but arcadepunks dot com and look around. Copy that build onto a drive and you’re good to go.
First off, I'm no where near an expert on soldering, but competent. I wanted to get the usb hub off of the Playstation, (it was stuck to the top with double sided tape) but I didnt feel confident enough to go poking around on the main system board. I knew the usb cable in the controller was replaceable so I decided to go there. If I goof it up, I can always buy another cable no harm done. This idea was one I originally saw years ago with people putting thumb drives inside their mice. Same concept.
I used this hub to start out with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKIDF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It has just enough ports and is compact enough to lay flat in the hand grip with some slight modifications.
First off, you have to remove the usb port. I used a pair of flush cutters to snip the port off. If you want to de-solder it, that would work just the same. Keep the leads on the top usb port as long as possible, I reattached just the 'tongue' from inside the usb port to allow for storage upgrades if I ever need to. Once the usb ports were off the hub, I cut the micro usb side of the controller cable off with enough length to reach the bottom of the controller grip. I soldered that end of the cable to the usb pads on the hub paying attention to the orientation and referencing a female usb 2.0 pinout. I separated the two usb ports with my little snips, reattaching the top port's 'tongue' to its original position. The longer leads allowed me to fold the piece backward and slide the thumb drive over it.
Now for the cable from the hub. I cut the plug off and kept the wires coming from the hub short as I could that would still allow me to work with them. Butt splicing these wires to the original controller cable for aesthetics (I like the little grey controller plug) and insulating the connections from each other left me with the last problem.
The pcb itself was small and compact, but was just shy of fitting in that sweet spot below the face buttons. Underneath where the usb ports were on the hub had no traces or circuitry that I could see. So, I clipped the corner off the board to fit snugly up against the rounded edge of the plastic supporting the controller face buttons. With a little patience, and some cable management, the wires can be routed along the inside edge of the grip, avoiding the screw hole by stacking on top of each other, and one plug to the controller board and one to the exit.
It was a neat little after work project I cooked up for myself. I wanted the hub to disappear, but was not totally confident working on the console board itself. I see this as a good compromise for someone who would rather replace one controller cable if they mess up. I tried to be descriptive as possible. I didn't take any pictures while assembling it, but its nothing too difficult.
This non-powered “USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter” works fine for me in port 1 for both PSC controllers. I put my USB stick in port 2.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005HKIDF2/ref=nosim/appleink/
I purchased this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKIDF2/
Is it possible to use a USB splitter for the Pi? Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2
I use a HP 3 button optical mouse like this one here. I us it together with a wheel mouse attached to a 2 port mini usb hub like this one here. I get wheel button fatigue from clicking in 3d apps all day.
Awesome, thank you for the information! I've just ordered the same USB splitter from Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2/
I really appreciate your help, I'm getting married next week so hopefully it will arrive in time for my best man and I to have some multiplayer shenanigans the night before the big day! Any suggestions for good multiplayer games besides Crash Team Racing and Smackdown 2? :)
From a quick search, it's looking like jvc makes the only worthwhile dual usb HU's. What about getting one with a rear input then adding a little usb hub to it? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-2-0-Port-Hub/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1342033185&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub+2+port
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541694701&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+a+hub+two+ports&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41h0iHlbJtL&amp;ref=plSrch
Not an optimal solution, but you could attach this to one of those right angle plugs
I have had the exact same problem as you with both the Inateck and a different OTG adapter. Neither of them provided rear power after the BleemSync 1.1 update.
I ended up buying one of these USB splitters so I can plug the two PSC controllers into USB 1 and the flash drive with BleemSync into USB 2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eQbwDb3H28W45