Reddit reviews Plugable USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Speaker-Headphone and Microphone Jack, Add an External Stereo Sound Card to Any PC, Compatible with Windows, Mac, and Linux
We found 102 Reddit comments about Plugable USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Speaker-Headphone and Microphone Jack, Add an External Stereo Sound Card to Any PC, Compatible with Windows, Mac, and Linux. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Enable USB connectivity with your existing 3.5 mm audio headphones, headset, speakers, or microphone.Perfect to bypass a faulty sound card, audio port, or as a replacement for a broken USB audio adapterLeave connected to a USB hub or dock to avoid unplugging. Lightweight, compact, and constructed of durable aluminum in a black finishNo additional drivers necessary; fully plug and play on virtually all modern computers. Compatible with any standard USB Audio Class enabled system including Windows XP through 10, Linux, macOS and Google Chromebook. Not compatible with USB ports on car audio systems. Not suggested for lapel microphonesWe love our Plugable products and hope you will too. All of our products are backed with a 2-year limited parts and labor warranty and Seattle-based email support
I have used this USB soundcard before with the pi. Worked great, made a huge difference for input. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NMXY2MO/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41ZBKi2arGL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C68_&amp;refRID=1DW01R47QJHW2R5F36AQ
If you don't want to replace the whole port, just get a usb adapter -
I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:
This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.
My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.
I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.
Get a male-to-male 3.5mm cable, plug one end into your 3DS, and the other into the mic port on your computer. Then plug regular headphones into the headphone port on your computer. Then find your computer's audio settings for the mic port and turn on "listen to this device" or something similar.
If you don't have a mic port on your computer, you'll need something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
It depends on the machine, but in your case, certainly not. But danielfletcher is correct, you are describing a normalized audio output. This is a mechanical switch, not controllable by the computer. It works like this.
If you just want to be able to change between headphones and speakers without having to unplug, you could use a usb audio adapter for your headphones. The adapter would show up as its own device, and you can switch between it and realtek. Here's a cheap one.
If you have a free USB port, this is all you’ll need. $8 and it’s a way better option than trying to crack open the case and solder in a new one.
> Could you please tell me why the usb audio board is needed for the Pi setup? As far as I can remember has the Pi an audio jack too right?
The audio jack on the Raspberry Pi is only for audio output. The music visualizer requires audio input, so you will need a USB microphone or USB sound card with audio input.
I am using this USB sound card. I connect the audio output of my music player to the microphone input of the sound card. You may want to purchase an audio cable splitter as well.
I recommend getting a diffuser channel for the LED strip. They often cost more than the LED strip itself, but the colors and light output looks much better when a diffuser channel is used.
For the best performance, use the Raspberry Pi 3 or 2. The Raspberry Pi 1 is a bit too slow.
I will be adding support for the FadeCandy very soon. If the FadeCandy is used with the Raspberry Pi then it will noticeably improve the LED strip output.
Yeah, but it only supports specific chipsets. I use this one, but I recommend you get one with a cable attached, because that one blocks the adjacent USB port
a 7 dollar sound adapter is probably worth what you would expect.
i would actually just spend 30 usd and buy 3 cheapest and see witch of them work the best.
the problem with these is, that realtek sounchip that we probably all use cost like 80 cents.
so who knows how awesome these are.
edit: from reviews this does not sound so horrible: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_4
They have adapters for that, you know.
I'm in the US and have used this USB audio dongle on my Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/
It looks to be available on Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMXY2MO/
Avoid the $4 ones in translucent plastic cases, though. I had two from different manufacturers that gave off so much RFI that it killed the 2 meter band once they initialize. I've had good luck with the $9 Plugable adapter and the $13 iLuv adapter. This is with a Raspberry Pi model B ($40 - may as well get an RPi 2) and Dire Wolf as a TNC. I use aprx as the igate/digi application and use the setup also as a network TNC for use with APRSIS/32 and other APRS apps while the igate is running. I can also shut down the igate and still use it as a network TNC for other packet work. All said and done, under $50 and it can be set up in under an hour.
I use a USB Audio Interface. It has a headphone out as well as speaker outs.
Mine's for recording, so it also has mic inputs. I find the sound quality to be much improved over the stock windows audio drivers.
If you really want, something like this could work too - usb to 3.55mm
I'm using an iPhone 7+ and this is what I use:
Paired with this:
It's not the best sound quality, but it's line level at least. Sometimes it sound worse if I don't fiddle with the connections, but I've been using it to livestream once a week and it's been... adequate.
I tried to grab a mobile sound card - this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roland-GO-MIXER-Audio-Smartphones-x/dp/B01N6NQ7J2/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542968605&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=roland+go and it worked, but I couldn't use a lightning splitter to charge and stream at the same time so I had to return it. If you're only making like 15 minute videos, it's cheap and it works, but if you're doing long form mixes or live streaming, it's not the best choice.
You could connect your cassette player via audio cable to your computer via the aux in connector and record it that way. Then a program like ffmpeg could be used to convert the file to mp3. If your laptop doesn't have an aux in connector, then there are usb audio adapters that should work:
I have kind of an interesting setup for my alpha. I use spdif to my Vizio sound bar (which is sitting under my monitors) for everyday use.
I have Sony MDRXB950BT Bluetooth headphones I use when i need headphones (extremely good battery life and no audiophile, but I think they sound great).
Then I have a headphone out from my monitor (alpha is connected through hdmi and my monitors (benq rl2460ht) happens to have headphone out) and I bought an extender so I can plug in normal headphones easily If my Bluetooth is dead/I'm lazy/etc. Took me a little while to figure it out, but this setup works great for me.
Or something like this:
This thing may help. https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
Voice Meter lets you both EQ and setup your audio so that you can hear mic feedback: https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/index.htm
V-Moda is a purely analog mic. Your computer should have a mic amp..
mic inis usually amped. If you need a dedicated mic amp.. you can get one of those cheap dongles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMXY2MO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have a logitech G230 headset. It uses the headphone and mic jacks.
Would buying this adapter give me any benefit over the normal jacks?
Try picking up one of these (if the irig takes up the same port as headphones): https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526589894&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+headphone
You can set the input to iRig and the output to the USB and that should seperate them. Also, try turning off your bus sends. Sometimes, it'll act wonkey and still play the reverb or whatever send you're sending from previous takes.
If you can you should definitely get a USB adapter.
A long time ago I purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058P0I2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But it looks like it's unavailable now. However, something like that would work well for you.
I just did a quick search and found this one. It has good reviews. I would strongly suggest you go with the USB. As far as quality goes I think the quality is nearly identical, just a different way to plug in.
I don't think SS has a way to order just parts unfortunately.
The USB-A to 3.5mm isn't quite what you are thinking. That is for converting digital to analog and it's for making 3.5mm work on digital ports. https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO
I don't think anyone makes what you need. It'd be easier to return/sell your headphones and get a 3.5mm pair.
Haven't played the game myself so I don't know if this would suffice, but you could just hook up an audio cable to your computer and record via analog. It's not 100% accurate (compared to digital), but you probably won't be able to tell the difference unless you're an audio engineer by trade.
If your PC has a microphone jack, you can use a double male 3.5mm audio cable, also available from your local electronics store. Audacity is a free and fairly powerful audio editing program you can use to record and clean up the samples, if needed.
If you don't have a mic plug, you can buy a cheap USB adapter like this:
I don't know if microphone jacks are necessarily made for this though, so as a precaution you'll want to keep your PC's microphone auto gain controls and stuff all disabled, and keep your Vita audio very low at first, record, then work up from there. I doubt there'd be any overload problems, but at the very least you want to keep the audio volume from clipping, and you can always adjust volume and such in Audacity.
Unless there's some export function, the only other way to get the music out perfectly would be to download the ROM and hack into it, but that's probably more trouble than it's worth.
As far as copyright goes, as long as you own the game, nobody's going to really care if you do this for personal use.
you have a couple ways of dealing with the audio from the PC to the amp.
the cheapest - and it works fine for me - is to get decentish usb sound card, and a 3.5mm >> RCA cable
such as https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/
or if you're cheaper https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO/
you make the longer run in a USB cable, and keep the sound card near the amp. so your analog path is short.
the issue will be if you want surround sound, since i'm not sure all usb DACs support that.
i'm not familiar enough w/surround sound to really advise on that front.
> Mic Y Splitter Cable
There are also USB adapters with a headphone jack and a mic input like this one though depending on the connector you could just use one like this
Yeah I tried that port too. I think that port 9 is meant for X.1 type of speakers, and it may be ignoring other audio channels (like sub-woofer).
Other solution I can think off is to use a 3.5mm jack to USB adapter setting.
My current audio setup for gaming very similar to yours. I love this setup and have no interest in getting anything else and will be using this for years to come, or until something dies. The USB DAC separates it from the computer and there is zero feedback or noise and its bliss. I would definitely recommend an outside dac over onboard or in case sound card.
Sennheiser HD 598, open and closed back
Mod Mic 5
USB DAC + AMP
USB sound card to plug in the mic if needed
I'd get a USB Converter like this
These are $8 and you can use to test whether your onboard dac is really the issue.
Plugable USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Speaker/Headphone and Microphone Jacks (Black Aluminum; C-Media HS 100B Chip; Compatible with Windows, Mac, and Linux https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6YyACbCPT4BV3
The other option would be to use the headphone out of the AVR, just run a long extension to it or move the AVR closer.
It would be much easier to get one of these and a regular headset; there just aren't that many USB headsets out there, and most of them are pretty bad. It sounds like you motherboard has some shielding issues that are causing the static sound in your sound ports. The USB adapter I linked would also solve your problems, and if you already have a headset you like, then no need to buy a new one.
i used to have a zalman and i remembered it to be pretty crap, and have since got a modmic. However, even with the modmic who everyone says is a great microphone i was still getting some noise. it was then i found out that it was my motherboard that is generating the noise so i picked up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522861278&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+headphone%2Fmic+adapter and it was a lot better. so if you dont have the budget for a more expensive mic maybe try a cheap mic and add a usb adapter to it
This looks interesting and cheap, but I don't know how it sounds.
Give this a look. Reviews report good results, and the top review includes screenshots on how to set it up.
Cheapest possible solution might be a USB audio adapter. You can get cheap ones for under $10, like this one.
Even cheaper might be to just fix the headphone jack on the front panel. It's probably wired to headers on the motherboard, so that wiring could be replaced if it is the jack or wiring that is broken. Though if the motherboard or sound card is broken, that fix won't work.
I see.. you are using the 1 plug connection on the Kraken Pro, that has 3 bands on it? That is for devices like cell phones, tablets, consoles... Your headset should have come with an adapter where you plug it into one end, and on the other it has separate jacks for mic and audio for your PC. If that's the case, it won't work on PCs. You need to use the separate ports with that adapter cable.
You either need this: http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-accessories/audio-mic-splitter-adapter-for-the-razer-electra
or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
This might actually work
I don't know shit about this, but the only way I've ever run audio into my MacBook was through the USB port, using one of these:
The Sony 7506 headphones are perfect for monitoring. I use the similar V6.
Edit: Your output volume on your computer should be under 5 in my experience. Higher than the noise floor of the computer but not too much higher. end edit.
The troubleshooting involved removing the cassette and playing it back with the phone jack on another deck or player. Short of that, you aren't troubleshooting effectively yet. One thing at a time.
Very unlikely that the heads are misaligned, or enough to cause these troubles. Again, playback in another deck. Don't worry about the heads, that is very unlikely.
I've looked at the controls. Do this, if you're not. Only Dolby B should be on, in that section, make sure that is the case, and the others are not engaged or sticky to disengage. Not Dolby C and not DBX. Keep it simple.
Hopefully the effect of the cymbals overloading can be decreased. Again, what you hear in the headphones on the deck while recording is the best you can do with that unit. The better deck to find some day has 3 heads so you can immediately monitor a playback head in line after the record head. Anyway, this deck isn't that.
A usb device with line out is vastly superior to the output jack on any computer, regardless if it is MP3 or better. Here's the one I'm testing this weekend based on another post on this sub. *also your MP3 source might have been from some source and not at all perfect. I mean, there are volume level controls on the computer besides what is on the input of the cassette deck, so having a Line Out from the computer is the best sound you will get.
I have converted MP3's to CD's to send to a friend and I always convert to WAV files first just because it's easier to control the volume from song to song, for me, to make a better product.
The usb thing: Walmart has these, too.
I think you can use something like this: USB adapter
If your speakers are taking up the 3.5mm output then you might need something like this to connect your headphones
Just went through this a few weeks ago myself, so I'll cut through all the BS and share what you need to know:
I hope this helps!
i was going to get [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMXY2MO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1&amp;psc=1) because i herd it solves the issue of the mic with its hs 100b chipset. but i guess the card could solve the issue, i was really going to use the sound card to fix my outbound audio because i wanted it louder. i didnt think the soundcard would also help with the mics quality
Route your speaker output back into your computer mic input with a splitter + extra aux cable and you can record with Audacity. I bought one of these to use and works great once you get the levels right on Audacity: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMXY2MO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: a couple words
I forgot to mention that I keep my headset slightly unplugged from the rear panel jack because if I plug it in completely, I can only hear out of the left ear. I just ordered this with overnight shipping
that way I'll just use another port altogether. Theres a ton of USB ports still available on the back. I really hope this is the problem and I can just be done with this.
Not only left and right, but a button too. Or more like they got "3 channels" to communicate with the phone, 2 of them for sound and 1 of them for the button/microphone See this image, left one = mono audio, middle one, stereo audio, right one, stereo and one more thing
I believe I bought this one and it worked pretty well. I now have a new pc with a line in port though.
Thank you! I had no idea this was a thing. I just ordered this one.
I have found with the internal sound cards that there can be interference.
With the USB external you don't really have to worry about drivers, Windows picks it up right away.
You can move it to another device easier.
And they can be MUCH cheaper:
Use this and the other link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1O2fvb0W5WP51 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iQ2fvb0JR3BP7 Try not to buy from Chinese sellers it could take 1 month to get there
Anyways, here are two Dell forum posts about the issue (Driver related)
Post 1 (update the audio drivers):
Post 2 (more driver updating):
If you hear an audible click or beep that is high in pitch and short in duration when you plug in the headphones that means you have an audio signal going to the headphones and everything should be fixed.
Hardware solutions that might fix the issue.
Hardware Solution 1:
USB to 3.5 mm headphone jack | amazon <-cheap solution, but it will get the job don if the two Dell forums can't help you
Before you replace the built in headphone jack do the following:
Take apart the computer and inspect the headphone jack for any debris that might be inside and removing the debris, this will save you the need to buy a replacement part if it works.
Hardware Solution 3 (requires taking apart computer):
https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=21531 <-Link to a replacement IO board that has two USB and 3.5mm headphone jack for the Dell Inspiron 15-3552.
Here's a link to where you can find replacement parts for your laptop if the hardware goes bad:
Replacement parts for the Dell Inspiron 15-3352 | parts-people.com
I hope these help you fix your issue.
Hmm so you just put connect the headphone portion to this and it converts it into a USB microphone? I bought a USB microphone-in think from Amazon and even that sounds peaky even with the microphone turned down. K I NDA frustrating, thought that was the solution haha
Edit: this specifically https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apap_uhTWysy29xNn4
If the splitter does not work,
Try something like this:
>doesn't seem to have audio out capabilities
you mean it doesn't have the software or the hardware?
The headphone jack on my computer is broken. Is there any downside to using a usb to headphone adapter? Any loss of quality? Something like this? Any recommendations on a better one to get?
Unfortunately, I think your options are pretty limited. Sound software sometimes allows a microphone port to be used as a headphone port, but my general understanding is that you can't run a microphone through a headphone port (at least, that's how it works on my computer).
Here's what you can try: plug your microphone jack into the headphone port. Your sound software might give you a popup asking what device you just plugged in. If "microphone" is on that list, you might be able to use your headphone port as a microphone port while running the headphone jack through a USB adapter like this one. If that doesn't work, I think your only option is a USB headset.
Edit: Pah! Silly me. I just found this thing. It does involve spending more money, but not very much! Note, however, that's it's not compatible with all types of microphone jacks. There's a guide on the product page.
You have a USB port right? Try using a USB audio adapter
i would try getting a cheap usb audio stick
or if you want luxury get a mayflower arc.
Alright thank you I will try and reinstall that, but just to make sure I’m buying the right thing , I’m looking to buy this specify USB jack
Well, it wouldn't hurt to try other methods first. You might want to remove cables and electronics away from your speakers in case of EMP interference. If that doesn't work, backup your data, reformat, and reinstall your audio drivers again.
If that doesn't work, then buy a USB audio adapter (make sure you can get a refund if it doesn't work). Something like this has decent reviews: https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
Also, in the future, you'll get better advice from /r/techsupport instead of this subreddit.
Sorry, the Amazon link contained a referral code too
Sorry to keep replying on this but I just wanna make sure I get this right;
So I'm guessing external sound cards will give me less EMI.
is this a good https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO
sound card or
both good? lmk.
If you have a free USB-port on the front, you can see about using something like this instead. Otherwise, you're going to need to inspect the internals of your front panel and check the 3.5mm jack for the microphone. I'd suspect that there's a bad connection and something would need soldered, if not the entire port replaced.
Might be less hassle to just get a USB headphone jack like below.
Actually I'm on the regular b350 tomahawk and I have the same issue. Been thinking about spending like 10$ and getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
You can try one of these.
http://www.amazon.de/Plugable-Mikrofonanschluss-Aluminiumgeh%C3%A4use-erforderlich-Chromebook/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=pd_cp_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1T1AD10V3628TPXBN90D They look like this, you'll have to do your own research unfortunately.
Yeah, that's what I figured.
That buzzing is coming from your motherboard. Realtek is notorious for poor shielding, which leads to interference from the other electronics of your PC (often your ground). The easiest and cheapest fix to this is a 3.5 to USB adapter. There are alternatives that entail either a dedicated sound card, or a ground loop noise isolator if your USB ports are all in use.
You might be able to use a USB mic input like this.
Give this a try :D Not 100% on if it works
If you can't find a fix for the headphone jack you can get a 3.5 mm jack usb soundcard like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bVJ5Bb3CHSETB
If that ends up being the problem and you don't wanna try/pay to fix it, you can disable the device and get something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO
I've used USB to dongle before, raiding heroic World of Warcraft content over discord. No perceptible difference in quality.
This donger: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO/
One more thought on that. You could use this that would populate as a separate audio device and shouldn't become disabled with the main speakers. It should populate as a separate device and be controlled separately. They are about 5 bucks.
Depending on your tower you might have two, one in the back and in the front. If not something like This might be of use. I've never used one before though so I can't put my input on it.
The two on your headset are for mic, and one for headphone. Your laptop is either a regular headset plug, so your mic will not work. Or it's the trrs plug, which you can split into both mic and headphone, best make sure you which you have first, should be in laptop manual or Google it.
Or.... You could simplify everything and get a USB adapter for your headset. Like this
That's not a recommendation, but an example.
Hello! The headphone jack on my laptop recently broke and is unusable. I'm currently using Sennheiser 598 headphones.
Would something like this or this be a good workaround? Will the sound quality still be okay?
I could spend up to $30 if these won't work well though.
Thanks for the help
Just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
And thumbs up this.
Well, first your PA is probably sending out a line level signal and your laptop is looking for a mic level signal, which is about 1/100th as strong as the line level. So even if you could get a connection there, it wouldn't sound good, it would sound terribly distorted.
Second, are you CERTAIN this is a mic in port on your laptop? 99.99% of laptops nowadays only have a headphone out jack, not a mic in jack. So if you are trying to send signal in through a jack that is output only, you are doomed to failure from the getgo.
They make plug in external USB soundcards for laptops which definitely have an in and out on them, I'd recommend you get one of those.
Then you just have to make sure that the settings are correct so the system knows you are sending LINE in, not MIC in.
The other option is to send the audio through a direct box, which will change LINE level down to MIC level, if you can't change it via the system software.
Perhaps you could use a TRRS -> TRS splitter/adapter OR perhaps a separate USB in/out audio device for $8 would help.
Some discussion here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Surface/comments/1d6v0s/surface_pro_audio_linein/
When you plug in the jack, Windows tries to detect what you've plugged in and changes settings automatically but it doesn't always work as expected. You can change those settings to disable mic or whatever you want in the Audio control panel/mixer.
So my headphone jack on my laptop broke after a tumble and now I have no way to use my 598's. I need some way to plug my headphones into the usb drive. At first I was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO But it looks too cheap for my headphones, no?
I need something under $35 yet it wont be any worse then it was before the tumble
Well if I was in your shoes I would consider getting a Plugable USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Speaker/Headphone and Microphone Jacks they are really cheap and it wold solve your issue. I got mine for $5 .
I've had this problem before and there was no undoing the damage from static electricity. If you reboot and it's still fucked up then it's probably permanent until you replace the sound card or get a USB mic.
One other idea I thought of was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
The description says "Perfect to bypass a faulty sound card, audio port..."
And if you get a mini-adapter like this it will also have its own soundcard (more accurately called a DAC – Digital Analog Converter) so once again it will not use the motherboard.
Linked the wrong thing, I meant something like this
I've got a USB mouse. I've also been using a USB adapter like this for my headphones because I only have one audio jack built in. This is a USB port I never used before. Perhaps I'll stop using it and see if that changes anything.
Thanks for you input!
Another alternative, especially if your speakers are taking up the rear headphone jack, is to get one of these:
It'll act like a separate sound device too, so you can have one thing playing through speakers and another thing through headphones.
It sounds like your integrated audio is broken. Without trying to use a recovery CD, maybe something like this USB Audio Adapter can help https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPqcAbYF5EABM
Also, something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
This one should work.
My guess is the Line out is disabled when headphones are connected to the front jack, and the Sound BlasterX G5 would show up in windows/games as a single device. I have a Sound Blaster Recon3D PCIe sound card that has three 3.5mm outs for surround (green orange black) and a dedicated 3.5mm for headphones. Windows shows it as a single "Speakers" but i can toggle which is active, the surround out or the headphone out.
I would suggest a usb adapter like THIS for your headset and set voice comm to the new device, and leave your speakers as they are. the Sound BlasterX G5 is going to be a waste of money if you don't put game sound through it.
What if I had an usb adapter? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
There's currently a built in microphone on my laptop. Since the adapter has two ports (speaker & mic), couldn't I just plug in the 3.5mm into the mic port and into my ipod and then make my laptop listen to the microphone port? Would it be able to output my ipod's audio through the laptop speakers then?
something like this should work
Have considered trying something like this? It goes through the USB and should eliminate the noise. It's also very cheap so not the end of the world if it doesn't work.
Not sure what kind of adapter you're thinking of.
I did some checking, though, and you can use the front-panel jack as a microphone input if the audio drivers support software-defined jack allocations (and the Windows and Linux drivers both do AFAIK), but as is the case with sound cards, each connector is either input or output but not both at the same time. If your boom mic has a separate cord/connection, you can use the front-panel jack set to mic-in and connect the headphones to the back-panel jack set to audio-out. If the mic piggybacks on the existing headphone cable (read: there's a four-contact cable like what's commonly seen with earbud/mic combinations for cellphones) it won't be usable.
As an alternative, there are adapters that can basically "USB-ize" a headset. These are essentially micro-packaged pseudo-soundcards with speaker and mic jacks that plug into a USB port and act like a bridge. Plugable makes one that sells for $8 on Amazon (Linky!), just by way of example. Something like that might actually be a far easier/simpler solution than playing musical jack settings.
I haven't heard of a usb mic with an additional input. You might need a usb interface (with xlr mic inputs and whatever else you might need)
Also, if you have a usb mic already you could use something like https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO to get an additional aux input.
No idea if it works though.
I'd 100% recommend a usb audio interface with a real mic (condenser if you have a quiet room and dynamic if the room is loud)
Reading your post again I've realized that this isn't likely what you meant but I don't feel like rewriting this!
You can use USB with headphones: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO
but otherwise, maybe using Bluetooth but I haven't ever tried that so not sure how that would work.
I cannot personally vouch for this device but this is along the lines of what you are looking for and seems to have decent reviews on Amazon.
Not sure how good it is, but I found this faster than you made this post I'm sure :)