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Here are the bits. if you don't mind helping me out (I make 3d printing videos etc..) Goto my Video for the same links as affiliate links. Regular links provided here if you don't want to do that. its also a good video on the Maker Select Duplicator I3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q

It is not monitized with ads.

I have purchased all of these with my own money and use all of them.

you can save a little cash by printing your own z brace parts but the kit is not that expensive and looks DAMNED good and is super fast to install. if I get another maker/i3 printer its what I will use (I printed my first one bought my second one) I actually installed my Z brace kit while it was printing :-)

Z Brace Kit

My Video installation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVSxyYoKk0&t=1s

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Z-Brace-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B071SD7B4Z


Replacement Y Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7


If you have a glass cutter this is a lot cheaper for the glass 12x12 Mirror Pane

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Inch-x12-Square-Mirror/dp/B002PNUZAA


Or just buy the right size Glass Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Borosilicate-heatbed-printer-Reprap/dp/B00GAV9SVU

I also had issues with bed leveling on my MP select, but I fixed it with an aftermarket carriage plate. I haven't leveled the bed since installing it, and I've had no issues.

Yeah I'd say bad bearing. The ones The came with my Plus were noisy too on fast moves.

I picked up some better ones from Amazon and switched them out when I had the bed apart for the Y carriage replacement.

Bearings (pack of 12 for $8.99 so I've got spares for down the road): edit: they're $10.99 now, Amazon having fun with supply and demand.

CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6t3NqiIxMNsPK

These were longer than the stocks and fit perfectly in the brackets on the Select Plus. Haven't changed my X axis bearings yet.

Also, I upgraded the Y carriage, highly recommended:

RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bTZZKsFBnZWRg

The bed lower plate is slightly thicker than tin foil and bends if you have a strong draft in the room. This is a 3mm drop in replacement. Highly recommended.

this is the go-to plate https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500183237&sr=8-1&keywords=y+carriage+plate+i3

do you have a mofset installed?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

Also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qlgAb9BE509W

I had a warped bed with my Duplicator i3. I ended up buying a thicker carriage plate and that got rid of the warping. Now I don't have to spend so much time leveling my print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, got this on order: RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlzQzbN4W6Y04

You don't need to do any electrical mods. The higher voltage in the plus fixes the problems that were present on the older versions. The Z-brace mod is a good idea, but not necessary. It's easy to do and improves print quality though, so you should do it.

It's also probably a good idea to swap out the steel y carriage with a stiffer aluminum one like this, but again, it's not entirely necessary.

Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.

Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^

The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.

Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)

MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/

Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.

You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).

A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.

The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.

The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.

The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.

The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.

So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.

Someone else posted this earlier. Link

>However I think I have to replace the motherboard (not quite sure what the best word for the main controller board is). Why would I have to do this?

Because the melzi board in your printer (saying main print controller board / main controller board is fine) doesn't have enough memory in it for a feature like auto bed leveling. It's pretty much using all it's extra pins and available memory to run the version of repetier host on it (which is an older version before they added auto bed leveling).

>Could I not just replace the Z endstop switch, and wire the inductive sensor into the same inputs?

You could, but your firmware is still going to do what it's still doing, which is probe for X min, Y min, Z min, all only at 1 point. Auto bed leveling can be set up to probe multiple points on the print bed, then adjust the Z level in realtime while it's printing to make sure it's keeping the nozzle the same height from the print bed at all times. For example lets say your front left corner of your bed is at Z height 0, your front right corner is at Z+0.5mm, your printer will adjust the z height as it's printing left to right +0.5mm.

>If I do in fact need to replace the motherboard, what would my best option be?

Cheapest option is a ramps 1.4 board.. You can find them cheaper than amazon, but you'll at least need to get the arduino mega 2560, the ramps 1.4 shield, and the stepper drivers (A4988's are what your melzi board has). Basically, the display is optional if you want it to be cheaper, just remember you can't use your current melzi display on ramps though. That being said, changing over isn't too difficult, but it scares a lot of people away because it's pretty easy to fry a ramps board if you don't follow directions too closely, and it requires uploading firmware to the board (which means downloading arduino software, loading a sketch -- the link has a copy already preconfigured for the i3, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net for changing options over to using a Z probe and enabling auto bed leveling). It's a bit of new learning for new people.. but again, there's plenty of tutorials out there now on how to get it done. That being said, if you do learn how to do it, it opens up a lot of cool new options, you can pick from different firmwares like repetier host or marlin, configure lots of new features available in firmware (have the printer turn on LED lights when starting a print, etc..)

That all being said, if you want the easiest, cheapest fix, buy a new carriage plate for your heated bed. The one that comes on a lot of the newer I3's is prone to warping / bending and that's probably why you can't get a completely level bed. Swapping it out for a better quality one means you can forgo all that other work and have a bed that can be level with your current setup.. it's a lot less work and learning and probably a better solution that using auto bed leveling to solve a problem you'd want to fix anyway even with auto bed leveling.

3 bearings are by design. It allows more error in alignment over 4 bearings. The plate is very flimsy and should be change at the factory but that increases cost. People have pointed out there is a drop in replacement but its out of stock

This One, I inspected it best I could and it seems straight.

Yea, in the beginning I was in a constant battle to get the four corners leveled. Although it still is a fight it isn't nearly has bad now that I bought the extra thick plate for under the bed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Laugh at the fact you ever didn't have it.

Proceed to belt the paper thin aluminum foil your printer's default Y Carriage is made out of.

Roll around in perfectly flat first layers.

Installation was actually pretty simple; I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQL8PS3erqI a couple of times first to familiarize myself with the process, tho I got the cheaper version of the kit without a replacement cooling block. As to recalibration, I am having to do some tweaking, however, I also upgraded my Z-axis carriage plate at the same time, to a much thicker (heavier) plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7) which has (along with z-brace mod, done a couple months ago) practically eliminated the need to bed-level after every print. The heavier plate introduced some Y-axis ghosting, which lead me to lower y-axis acceleration, as well as adding some belt clips (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375) & tightening the X- and Y-axis belts. The one issue I'm having with the new hotend specifically is that it tends to extrude a bit while heating up. I've played with some retraction settings, but haven't really resolved that yet.

i've modded mine to try and compensate for it and still getting some issues. It could be that I just suck at leveling.

So far I've bought a thicker aluminum Y carriage plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), done the Z-brace mod (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948) and tried to make sure my X-gantry was level using these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138928

I haven't messed with seeing if the Y carriage rods need to be modified though.

I am guessing you have a plate similar to this?

I was either going to rotate the bed 90 or rotate the carriage plate itself. My only worry is about the "braid" of cables I have going to the control box (now I wish I had the plus lol).

Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W

I'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words "Monoprice Maker Select v2.1" in the title :)

I bought the Maker Select V2 a few weeks ago, so I'll give you a dump of what I've bought so far:

MOSFET - You'll also need some 14 gauge wire, spade connectors, and something (like velcro) to mount it inside the case.

PEI Sheet - After going through tape/hairspray/glue this is what you'll end up wishing you started with. I bought some standard window glass from a big box store and had them cut it to size. I used the thermal pads at first, but I prefer just clipping it on. This way I can have 4 different glass beds to swap among.

Raspberry Pi 3 - OctoPrint is so much nicer than transferring the sd card back and forth.

Fan - DiiCooler or CiiCooler or a few others you can print out that are compatible with this fan (I think, I haven't finished printing them yet).

Y carriage plate - Not sure what the difference between this and yours is - I haven't installed mine yet).

MicroSwiss

Also ordered a couple rolls of Inand PLA from MicroCenter online.

Is there any reason why you are trying to get a custom Y-plate machined? Any reason why this wouldn't work? It's a direct drop in replacement no additional holes need to be drilled.

This is back in stock by the way. The below link is a newer version of the one in the original post. I just ordered one. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may be the next thing I look into. For the sake of killing 2 birds with one stone, it looks like [this drop in undercarriage from Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7) has mounting holes that would accommodate a 3 point mounting set up (2 on the right, 1 on the left). You think it would be possible to dill a new mounting hole on the existing build plate?

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498322884&sr=8-1&keywords=wanhao+y+carriage

That is the carriage

My roommate and I got a Select v 2.1 a few weeks ago (most that ship out from any retailers are 2.1s now, you can tell because the bed leveling screws are thumbscrews instead of wingnuts).

Just to get it out of the way early, just print a filament guide. Enough said about that.

You're absolutely right about the z-brace, worlds of difference. We also did the z-extension, not quite as important but it gives you the full print height potential. The fan upgrade doesn't do much for PLA from what we've tested but it helps on overhangs for ABS and the type.

I've noticed ringing pretty recently, which is from the springs used for belt tensioning. You can print belt tensioners that use screws instead to help alleviate that.

Bed warping is an annoying issue as well, that'll have you leveling your print bed at least twice a week. We got a y-carriage and got a piece of glass cut 8" x 8.5" x 1/8" for a print surface, which you can just secure down with scotchblue tape. Glue stick on the glass helps with print adhesion.

And just some tips for the road: Do not underestimate the amount of bolts/nuts/screws you'll need. It'll take at least a week and a half to get all the mods you want done, and it will never feel like you're finished. Finding a cabinet or some kind of enclosure is nice if you need it in the same room as you do your daily stuff/sleep in (like if you're in a dorm). Print settings like temperature and speed do more for print quality than any mods you can find. You will fail most of your early prints while trying to find the right settings. The bearings used are kinda crap and they make a cringey crunching noise, but I'm convinced it isn't affecting the prints much, if at all.

Any other questions, feel free to ask. We don't have the most experience with it yet but we've gotten a feel for the ins and outs. Welcome to the club!

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

Printed on a Maker Select V2 with the following mods:
 

Micro Swiss all metal hotend
 

Ciii cooler with radial fan
 

Z-braces
 

Upgrades Y carriage

 

Printer settings:
 

BamTack PLA
 

Hotend at 215
 

Bed at 60
 

.2 mm layer height for body and tail
 

.08 mm layer height for head
 

100% infill
 

Printed at 20 mm/s

An upgraded carriage plate is a must-have. It will help you achieve and maintain better bed leveling.

A 50mm blower fan with a printable shroud (e.g. the DiiiCooler) will make a big difference in print quality.

Beyond that, most things are luxuries or need-specific. For example, I love my Microswiss all metal hot end but you may not have any need for it.

I bought mine here.
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519150264&sr=8-1&keywords=maker+select+2.1

> I got it in November 2017, I've only had to level it about a dozen time or so.

Is that supposed to be impressive? A quality machine NEVER needs leveling, unless it falls off a table or something. Not to mention 4 screw leveling is fundamentally retarded from a mechanical design POV.

> I haven't had any misaligned rod issues nor any problems with the Z screws being out of sync.

Trying putting it in a shared makerspace where an absentminded noob will twirl one of the Z screws, not realizing the clusterfuck they're creating and nobody notices for a week.

> The carriage is flat enough for all intents and purposes

LOL then why does amazon have half a dozen replacement parts like this.

Look it's an amazing machine for $250, but you're delusional if you think it's not garbage tier mechanics and electronics.