Reddit reviews Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with Audio Extractor HDMI Switcher HDMI Audio Converter Include PIP IR Remote and 3.5mm Male to 2 RCA Female Stereo Audio Cable Support 4K 3D

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543214334&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+with+audio+out

I used to have this one and it worked for a Roku and cable box.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Personally I run a Retrotink 2X and love the thing. As far as I know Mike Chi (The make of the 2X) is the maker of the RAD2X as well. So That's probably the best option (in the price range obviously).

You can buy HDMI audio extractors to get your line level out back. This way you can run audio however you want after the HDMI process. However, in your situation, it might just pay to go the 2X route and then never feed your audio into the unit and route it elsewhere.

Something like this HDMI audio extractor will solve your audio problem. Or you can get an all in one solution

I use one of these to use my switch, snes mini, and pc at my desk. Works pretty well.

Ello! I have recently purchased an Elgato and I had the same issue as you. I run the Elgato's Out HDMI through one of these and mute my monitor. So far it works great and my sound doesn't seem any worse than it did on my computer. (on board sound if you have a sound card quality may vary :) )

Hope this helps!

Two options I can think of...

If your TV or monitor has a headphone out, grab a 3.5mm cable and run it from the screen to your speakers. Added bonus is that the speakers will then work for whatever you have connected to the screen, not just the Xbox.

Alternatively, you'll need to use a converter.

I have a HDMI switch that has a 3.5mm out, which can be used with a pair of speakers much like the ones you have (https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG). They're relatively inexpensive, and don't degrade the sound quality.

But ultimately, whether you go with the screen headphone out, the HDMI converter or the controller, each of these three methods is effectively converting the signal somewhere down the line.

What you want is an "audio extractor". Since you have two HDMI devices and you need to switch back and forth, you also need a HDMI switch.

Luckily, there are switches with extractors built in, so you can kill both birds with one stone.

Looks like this is a common Epson problem. Maybe this is a good solution? Though I would still need to either run a cable from the switcher to my receiver or figure out a Bluetooth connection...

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=FJH0XGCKGJCC&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1564440505&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+audio%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4

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This should do you fine and would allow you to hook up multiple devices to your monitor. It's pretty future proof for your set up.

Wouldnt this work: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TTS9QG/ref=crt_ewc_img_srh_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ&th=1

Thanks mate. Probably will just use this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG

I'm really liking that it has usb power. Most likely my computer will be on anyway, so my monitor will be able to power something via usb. It also has optical out, which means I can save my analogue in on the amp for something later down the track!

Doesn't have 4k or 1440p at 60Hz though...

You would be looking at something like that:

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=HDMI+to+HDMI+%2B+Audio+Extractor&qid=1570697579&sr=8-3

3 HDMI inputs from your consoles, 1 HDMI to your TV, 1 optical to your soundsystem

Not personally tested, but I was looking for a similar solution a little while ago

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/

Have my PS4, Xbox One, and Switch into it so I can just use my one headset without unplugging and plugging it into another console. Switches automatically to whatever console you turn on. USB powered, so can be ran using whatever USB wall plug or console USB you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542565424&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter

According to the manual (page 1-3) you there are two 3.5mm jacks, the one closest to the HDMI port is an audio in jack and the other is a headphone jack. The headphone jack only works when the HDMI or Displayport inputs are active.

Make sure your not connected to the audio in jack and you have to use the headphone audio out jack on the monitor to get audio out.

If that doesn't work get a HDMI audio extractor off Amazon, this one has a 3.5mm audio jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/

Well, if you're willing to buy something, you could get an HDMI audio extractor which will separate your audio source so you can plug in your headset.

Since your TV has no audio outputs, your only option is to pull the audio from the sources you are plugging in to the TV. If you are only using HDMI inputs, you can get a HDMI switch with audio output. Something like this will get you audio out and then you'd also need something like this to transmit the audio over bluetooth.

I'm trying to set up a secondary listening area that doubles as a 2.1 "home theater". It's primary function is for 2 channel audio, about 50/50 vinyl/digital (via Roon over Chromecast). Secondary is for streaming video via Chromecast.

Basically I'm not interested in the features an AVR comes with, except HDMI switching and audio processing. I just need the HDMI audio extracted to a coax, optical, or USB out to go to my Emotiva DAC.

Is there any reason not to just find a budget HDMI switch and audio extractor like this? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073TTS9QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Iv7RBbXAMQTD0

Can I expect bit perfect audio to the DAC this way?

Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTS9QG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Maybe just get an HDMI switch that has audio out (analog or digital) Example. Then plug in an Nvidia Shield for Netflix, Prime, Chromecast, NAS support on HDMI 1, then leave the Switch dock plugged into HDMI 2. Easy peasy.

Grab a HDMI extractor.

I just got a this and it works great (was recommended here on reddit): Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TTS9QG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My initial thought was "no way in hell that would work." I happened to have a pair of Logitech USB speakers sitting here and gave it a try, and as I suspected it didn't work. Even IF it has drivers for a USB audio device there's no easy way to tell it to use the USB device instead of the HDMI; you'd have to hack it to mod it's boot options somehow.

What you can do is get a USB Audio Extractor, something like this one which has 3 HDMI inputs, one output, and a stereo & toslink audio output. This will run you about $25 but allow you to hook up a pair of speakers (or a Receiver via TOSLink). Now, I will warn you, I had a cheap one like this and had an issue where my PC wouldn't recognize the monitor as an audio device, even with the switch/extractor in the middle, so it wouldn't play audio even when my standalone blu-ray player would, so this may not work for you, in which case you should be ready and willing to return it.

There are switches like this which have analog outputs.

How is your monitor configured where you need RCA input? I was thinking you would have your devices connected to the switch and then the digital audio from the HDMI sources would be output via analog audio to some speakers or something.

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
   
2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
   
3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.
   
   And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.

is your HDMI reference just an example or is that what you have?

you just need a "HDMI switcher with audio extractor".

for example :

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG/

https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Switcher-Extractor-HDMI2-0b/dp/B07T2WSY3D/

you'll need to use the switcher remote when you change sources, but won't have to change anything on the TV to change input devices. audio will track with whatever the HDMI source is.

yeah that would work too but my method lets you get PC and console audio at the same time as long as the PC is turned on. this lets you use discord or listen to music while gaming or if you have a second monitor hooked up you can watch video while u play. i use this one. has a remote, picture in picture, and gives 3.5mm or optical audio out