Reddit reviews PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema

Sorry to hear that, hopefully though you're on the road to recovery.

So two options you have...

1. Use a controller with a 3.5mm headphone jack and plug speakers or headphone into that, or if it doesn't have that the Microsoft Stereo Headset Adapter, plug speakers/headset into that and the adapter into the controller
   
   
2. Buy a DAC, plug the optical/TOSLINK into the DAC and the other end into the SPDIF port on the back of the Xbox One, power the DAC using the USB port on the Xbox One and then plug your headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm port on the DAC. By DAC I mean something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROZOR-Digital-Toslink-Analog-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462798176&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

Convert the optical to analog.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

Your TV doesn’t appear to have any RCA outputs, but there might be a headphone jack somewhere else on the tv. If not, you could get an SPDIF converter for the optical out PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aPYvCbT1S2HBC

Can you tell us the brand and model of the TV or show us a photo of the connectors on the back?

I'm skeptical that the TV has RCA audio out. These days they typically only have RCA in; audio out will typically be a toslink optical connection.

And therein may lie the answer. If your TV indeed has a toslink "audio out" connection and your "old CD player" has an RCA "aux in" connection, then you can use a TOSLINK to RCA converter to plug the TV through the CD player to the speakers.

And that's for "output"? No. In fact, looking a the specs, it seems to have SPDIF (optical) out though. Also says that it has a headphone jack (but I wonder if it's the crummy thing that might be on the remote, like with other Roku devices).

If so, you can buy devices to convert optical SPDIF to something else. In my case I wanted a mini-jack. I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0

Not sure if im allowed go direct link it but

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0N.XCbQ5HG5CC

Do you have optical out on your motherboard? I had this issue for so long and finally fixed it with an optical to 3.5mm box like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I also use an old Fiio E6 and that's great for the price too, though there're probably better options at this point.

Here is the one I use, works fine for the toslink out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_k1oRDbFA92XG8

If you want audio out of the PS4 you'll need to connect into the optical out.

You'll need one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502680031&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+audio+to+analog

Connect this into the Optical Out to the PS4 and set the Optical as the audio device in the settings. Then you'll connect your headphones to the device.

That optical cable doesn't convert the signal into something that your headphones can use, it is simply 2 different types of optical plugs at the ends.

This is the kind of thing you need, https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1482430996&sr=8-5&keywords=Optical+to+3.5mm

Sure here you go:

Remote: Start off with the a cheap optical DAC. This one includes an optical cable and runs $15. Use RCA cables to plug the DAC into this remote volume control. Plug both your volume control unit and your Phono preamp into any RCA switcher. Literally any cheap rca switcher will work just fine as long as it has at east two inputs and an output.

Knob: Start with the same optical DAC. Purchase one of the many variations of this thing. Just use an RCA to XLR cable to connect your Dac to the knob. The JDS labs OL Switcher also works, and you would use 3.5mm to RCA cables in that case.

So here's the deal. The TCL outputs audio externally via two methods. Either Optical digital audio out (toslink), or a headphone port. SO that leaves you utilizing one of those two ports.

​

• If you want to use the headphone port, you need a 3.5mm Male to Stereo RCA Male. Such as THIS. you plug the headphone (3.5mm) end into the TV, the RCAs into your crappy soundbar.
  
• Otherwise, to use the Digital output on the television, you need a DAC. You need a device to convert a digital signal from the tv (Toslink, aka Optical) to an analog signal (RCA Male-to-Male). You would run an Optical Cable from the TV to A DAC such as this, and then use the RCA Male-to-Male cables you presumably already have.
  
  ​
  
  In the future you'd be better served posting in r/soundbars . We really should get THAT subreddit going, and stop polluting r/hometheater with simplistic questions like this :)
  
  
  Good luck!

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DHt5CbCZFA5KC

Here's one from Amazon you won't be able to use chat or anything though only sound

plenty out there, eg https://www.amazon.com/Orb-Audio-Booster-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B017J6K598

That said, you may just want a 12v DAC and then a separate amp, instead of trying to get two in one. here's a 5v: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Should be able to use something like this with the PS4’s optical out.

Just to be sure I have this all right.

I need this adapter.

And this and this

Sorry to be a nuisance

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

What big square thing? Are you talking about the optical port. This would probably be your best bet. Note: I have not used this so I can’t comment on how it works, but it seems to be what you need. And it is only $13 on Amazon + it has prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t1_B00NJCCAKY

Another plus, I believe optical has the best transmission speed.

I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and used the Optical audio output on the XB1 into the adapter and then a 3.5mm cable to go from adapter to the AUX in on my PC speakers and it works perfect. I can even hear the audio from the Xbox at the same time as audio from my PC so no need for changing inputs on my speakers or anything.

If you're willing to invest I use this and it works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like those have 3.5mm and RCA inputs. You have two options:

1. Run a cable from the speakers' input to the headphone jack on your controller, and send all audio to "headphones." Downside: you basically end up with a wired controller.
   
   
2. Buy this, plug it into the PS4's optical audio output and your speakers' input. Use a USB port on the front of the PS4 for power.

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

Try tape out

Try the headphone jack

Try one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "DAC"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

If he has the money tell him to upgrade his amp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RSJBX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PDTRAb52S2FV7
This guy is on sale today, very solid option. I push for upgrades in this situation because a decent install takes quite a bit of work, enough work to make the end user want a good payoff. Little band-aid fixes are fine if that's the only option but from personal experience they add up and have their own issues. That said, here's your band-aid: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iHTRAbX6F9BKW (RCA cables not included).

As a fellow audiophile, your best bet would just be to pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/?th=1

They have the other model on there for $10 more that supports 192/24 but since all games and most Blu-rays are at 48/24, the $13 should be perfectly fine. Very low SNR, and the reviews say the headphone amp inside is pretty good, so you should have no issues with it.

If your motherboard doesn't have an S/P DIF optical audio output, add a sound card that has one ($30).

Optical audio cables are usually not included ($6).

If your speakers and/or headset don't have an optical input, you'll need an external DAC/AMP. There are models for all budgets from $12 for a simple converter, no Amp, to $70 for a DAC+AMP, to $toodamnhigh for an audiophile solution.

Note that an external DAC can have a USB port for your PC but don't use it since it would create an electrical connection. Only use the optical cable, and plug the DAC's power cord preferably in a different wall socket than the one used by the PC.

Recap:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Sound Card | Asus - Xonar DG 24-bit 96 kHz Sound Card | $29.57 @ OutletPC
Custom | PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV | $12.99 @ Amazon
Custom | FX Audio DAC-X6 24BIT/192 Optical/Coaxial/USB Digital Audio Amplifier DAC Decoder (Silver) | $64.99 @ Amazon
Custom | Edifier R1280DB Powered Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Optical Input - Wireless Studio Monitors - 4 Inch Near Field Speaker - 42w RMS - Wood Grain (Black) | $129.99 @ Amazon
Custom | AmazonBasics CL3 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Toslink Cable - 6 Feet | $5.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $253.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $243.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-23 20:45 EDT-0400 |

If it's not enough you can add a potentiometer but it's not recommended unless it really annoys you. It will remove any remaining white noise at the cost of lower volume. Lower volume means you will have to increase the volume to hear at the same level, and it will kill part of the spectrum: there's quality loss.
Example: you're a watching a movie scene where nobody speaks and everything is silent but the microphone still detects and records the natural ambient noise that air makes or people quietly breathing. The potentiometer would kill that.

Not if it has an optical or coaxial input. However, if you want to play it safe though, get a cheap one.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542313071&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+optical+usb&psc=1&smid=A1L1WUWYKZGTBQ

Then, it doesn't matter what receiver you end up with.

I use the cheapest DAC i could find. No volume control and just SPDIF in and 3.5 and RCA out https://www.amazon.de/Analog-Stereo-Audio-R-L-Konverter-Adapter-optischem-Heimkino-Systeme-AV-Verst%C3%A4rker-schwarz/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I've just bought a pair of JBL LSR305 along with a JBL NanoPatch + off of Thomann. They sound ridiculously great when I connect them to my phone (using a 3.5mm TRS male-male cable), but when I hook them to my computer (to the motherboard's audio output) there's a lot of buzzing noise, that HEAVILY (and I mean heavily) increases whenever the graphics card is working hard, such as in games.

I've been reading a lot about this kind of noises. I've read about issues with grounding, but all my wall outlets are properly grounded. The computer and the speakers are connected to the same power strip, but I've tried connecting the speakers to a different wall outlet and the result is the same. I've tried with different cables and the same result.

I think the problem is that the electromagnetic interference within the computer is affecting the audio signal. However this has never happened before with other PC speakers or headphones (I used to have a pair of Gigaworks t40II and a pair of Sennheiser HD380 Pro).

I've read that using an external DAC could help. I used to have a Fiio e10k but I didn't really like it and it ended up breaking. Do you think I could solve this using a cheap Toslink-To-RCA DAC like this one?

Thanks in advance

try THIS. Had it back in the ps3 days, used it with the exact speaker you have.

Doesn't matter. Optical is fine. I have one of these to use some computer speakers on my girlfriend's TV.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8kCYBbP4FZP41

The volume should be fine - but some headphone jacks on TVs seem to struggle when connected to line level inputs. If you don't need remote volume control via the TV remote you might get better results with one of these connected to the digital audio output of the TV https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

They come with speaker wire (I'm pretty sure) so you're set there.

You need an amp as well as a way to plug them in. It depends how much you're willing to spend, but I'll give you some options.

This little amp is great for a desk setup. It isn't very clean and doesn't have much power, but that should be fine for sitting up close.

This SMSL amp has the same power but it is cleaner, meaning it will sound a bit better. It also won't distort as much as you turn it up.

This SMSL amp has more power than the other amps. This just means it can get louder. It might be nice if you plan on using them in a bigger room or at a tv in the future.

To plug those in to your computer, you'll need an rca-3.5mm cable. I use AmazonBasics for all of my cables and they work great.

Alright, now that will give you sound (probably) but it might not be the best. Computers usually have very bad dacs. This converts the 1s and 0s to squiggly bits that the speakers can use. If your computer has an optical out, I would recommend this dac. It is cheap and comes with the optical cable.

If you get the dac, you'll need an RCA cable to plug it into the amp.

So, if you get the dac, it will go like this: (the stuff between the --> is the cables)

computer -->OPTICAL--> dac -->RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers

If you skip the dac, it will go like this:

computer -->3.5MM-to-RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers


Does this make sense?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fVfyCbFP4JEGT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBH4SFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bZfyCbDA8VAYY

Will these suffice?

Thanks a bunch for your help.

You will need a optical to analog converter

Something like this should do it

PROZOR DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio R/L Converter Adapter with Optical Cable- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lZPBb2BTQ1KN

If you're fine with the speakers you have now, why not just get an optical to 3.5mm DAC

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491029714&sr=8-3&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

Splitting the HDMI is going to cause problems due to the HDCP and the fact you're trying to split the audio from video.

I would suggest something like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Going from the optical output rather than trying to split the audio from the HDMI I would say is a better option as a cheap device will work fine as there is no need to split the audio from the video or protection that needs stripping first from the optical output.

It's most likely that when your graphics card gets to work, it causes noise in the power supply (possibly because of a poorly designed GPU, a poorly designed or underrated PSU, or both) or induces noise in the motherboard's sound card (becuase mobos are cramped and costs are cut).

The only guaranteed solution will be to extract a digital signal from your PC and do the D-to-A conversion somewhere else. For example, you could try a USB sound card or music interface like the Focusrite Scarlett. Alternatively, you may be able to take an optical digital signal out and buy a cheap optical to RCA DAC like this. Or, you could stream the sound wirelessly with bluetooth audio adapters.

I agree with this guy. Optical port is a good solution. I use it with an old Turtle Beach Stealth 500p (Playstation headset) that has a USB device which accepts optical in.

Convertors can also be had fairly cheaply to convert to jack/phono output : https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

Just remember that you will only get sound, microphone will not work.

If your TV only has optical output use one of these between tv and speakers

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

You may still have to go into settings into sound and change it from TV speakers to sound system or optical out or something - whatever the choice besides TV speakers is

When I started out I only had 2 speakers, a DAC and an amp, and was very happy with it.

I'd suggest going with that sort of setup, but for £80 it's going to be hard to get it inside budget, but I'll give it a go.

For speakers, the Diamond 9.0 will be the cheapest you can go unless you buy used.

For a digital to analogue converter something like this would have to suffice. It also comes with an optical cable which you'll need to connect your TV to it. It's powered by USB, an old phone charger or something would do.

For an amp, this would do. It comes with a 3.5mm to rca cable that you'll use to connect this to the DAC.

So that totals to £76. You would then only need speaker cable (Richer sounds will cut it to the length you need, just use the cheapest one they have) and maybe some banana plugs.

>is this a deal breaker and if not would above or below be better?

Not a deal breaker. Place on whatever shelf is closest to the level of the TV, then angle them slightly up or down based on where they are.

This one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need a hdmi to DVI and you need a optical sound to 3.5 jack converter.

If your TV had a DVI port it will have a pc / audio input jack. You have to use the optical lead from the Xbox to the converter box and then it has a jack lead that goes to your TV.

I also use a old TV, Im at work so can't posts links right now. I'll edit this with links to the stuff you need soon.

The box you need.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505733639&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spdif+to+3.5mm&dpPl=1&dpID=41LGG8dggIL&ref=plSrch

You will also need a normal 3.5mm jack cable you can get these for nothing. But the box only comes with the optical audio lead and usb power lead.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/460/PROZOR-Digital-Toslink-Analog-Audio-Converter-Adapter/B00KNNSKV0/

You don't need an expensive amp with an optical input. If you find an amp you like, you could use a cheap dac like this one to convert the signal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Hi I have the following equipement:

Monoprice MP-65RT 6.5in and Ribbon Tweeter 2-Way Bookshelf Speakers - https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24739

Lepy LP-2020A Hi-Fi Digital Amplifier, Mini Stereo Audio Amplifier with Power Supply Black US - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2P61FO/ref=pe_152360_217568560_em_1p_0_im

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I connect my speakers to the Lepai and then connect using the converter to my TV I use as a monitor via optical.

Question:At times when I'm playing music, the amp goes out and takes around 5-10 sec for the sound to come back. It sounds like it's resetting. Is there anyway I can prevent that?

You need a digital to analog converter, I use one (linked below) to connect my Samsung TV to my Lifestyle 18 Series III because my PS4 uses the only optical input my media centre has.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - It's cheap and works great!

Behringer Xenyx Q502usb mixer. This, and that line of Xenyx mixers works with the native USB driver with PS4.
you can see videos on youtube of it. I just ordered on myself from MFriend on a special deal for like $43.99.
Not sure yet, but you may need a cheap little DAC to insert audio. I bought this one. and have no complaints.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But supposedly these newer models of the Xenyx have a new dipswitch that allows you to insert USB AND 2 Track audio into phones port. So in theory one should no longer need the DAC, as the USB insert to headphones dipswitch is essentially a DAC.

I need some help. Below I am going to list all the stuff that I currently have.

My goal is to use my JBL Speakers to play audio for Netflix which is run through an Apple TV.

I plug the Hosa cables into the JBL speakers and then into the 3.5mm to RCA. The RCA is plugged into the converter. The converter has a digital optical cable plugged into it. The other end of the optical cable is plugged into the Apple TV.

All I hear is hissing. No sound from the Netflix show.

Please let me know if I need to supply any additional information.

vizio tv

https://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e371vl/

apple tv 3rd generation

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008#appletv-3rd

digital to analog converter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

3.5mm female to 2 male rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0156F38LG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hosa 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

JBL speakers (lsr305)x2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUKP37C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I use an xbox connected to one of my computer monitors so I usually will have the pc running at the same time with my third monitor connected to xbox when I want to play. I bought the following to pipe the xbox sound out into my pc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm already using a box like that but I was hoping that there was something that would convert to balanced XLR. Using an RCA to XLR works but it's unbalanced and susceptible to noise. I'm already using something like this. https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525466151&sr=8-3&keywords=spdif+to+rca

I mean, they sell Optical/Coax -> RCA converters for ~$10. https://smile.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

The TV's COAX out looks like a yellow/orange RCA out, right?

You need a DAC to convert the signal from digital to analog.

This should do it.

You'll need a digital coax cable too

You can look into a DAC: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1 is the cheapest one I can see atm if you are on a budget.

That's right, thanks. Is there loss of quality in the conversion. Will any DAC do? I'm looking at these two:

https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Digital-Converter-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B01HRJ9P84/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520136204&sr=1-10&keywords=optical+audio+to+rca#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KNNSKV0&pd_rd_r=5XACSMZFFG8DH9JKYDGQ&pd_rd_w=pj71I&pd_rd_wg=xDbiq&psc=1&refRID=5XACSMZFFG8DH9JKYDGQ#customerReviews

Hello folks. I have a DAC whose output is connected with JBL LSR 305's. The DAC has two input types: SPDIF and coaxial. The SPDIF is already connected with my desktop computer and it runs well. Now I want to additionally connect my laptop with the coaxial input of the DAC. The laptop only has a 3.5 mm headphone jack output. How do I connect them?

Hey guys. I have onkyo a-9010 amp and I would like to connect it to PC with the best result in term of quality of sound. At the moment it is connected from PC to cheap dac with optical cable, then from DAC to amp with cheap RCA cables. Sound is ok, but I wonder if it can be better by using other things. What do you guys recommend? My onkyo is UK model, there is no any optical input in opposite to EU version.

DAC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CVXDZ7S5SB6DBBN85GHP

Amp: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Onkyo-A-9010-UK-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00SH2JSJW

Speakers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monitor-Audio-Bronze-2-Walnut/dp/B002LPTH92

Good luck to you. The other option is to buy a converter optical to rca. Just google that. Amazon has one list for $35.00 that will make your set up work for sure. Fiber from the tv to the converter and analog to the Logitech speaker
Here is another. $11converter

Quick google found this. Seems well reviewed.


https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/143-4828649-9012029?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KNNSKV0&pd_rd_r=b7feb44b-8fd5-404d-a7cd-ff5f6bb0d204&pd_rd_w=OXr8p&pd_rd_wg=AGNkH&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=RNAG922DYRC6HWDG65EH&psc=1&refRID=RNAG922DYRC6HWDG65EH

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

be aware that in most cases, the optical output will not be volume controlled by the remote.

The easiest sure-thing solution is to get an optical dac, if your PC has an optical output, that would be electrically insulated from the motherboard. The cheapest solution would be to get a basic one like this (your headphones don't need amplification anyway), but if you want to spend a bit more and get something nicer that you could also use with higher impedance phones, get this.

You could use something like this, using the optical out from the console.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1

Or buy a better headset that gets it's audio direct from the optical out.

I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,

Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.

There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.

Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM

For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8

(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)

No dual audio settings on the TV?

You could get a DAC and a Bluetooth transmitter.

Or wireless headphones with an optical input on the base station.

Sennheiser https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SLUI5SA

Sony https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004P15HD0

Budget

https://smile.amazon.com/Avantree-Wireless-Headphones-Bluetooth-Transmitter/dp/B07CJ2BVSP

https://smile.amazon.com/D1-Headphone-Transmitter-Headphones-Connection/dp/B01N6C5LH4

digital to analog converter you can use something like this to connect the optical cable to the PS4 and then the speakers to the rca ports and you will get sound

If it's the old PS4 or Pro with optical out you could probably use a cheap DAC like this then a phono to jack cable to the amp.

The Slim doesn't have optical out so for it you'd need some kind of splitter on the HDMI cable.

Or as Nekolas90 suggests use an audio out from your TV.

> Samsung EU55NU7020

It has an optical out.

> Logitech Z323

It has 3.5mm and RCA inputs.

So, this would work.

I'm having a hard time following your situation since it looks like you're mixing up input/output and possibly describing the wrong direction of signal conversion. It sounds like maybe what you want is to use analog 3.5mm speakers with your PC and the PS4. The PS4 doesn't have analog 3.5mm output, but does have optical audio so you want an optical audio to analog 3.5mm converter. Did I get that right?

Does your PC have optical or coaxial audio output as well? If it does, then you could get a digital audio switch with analog 3.5mm output. Both the PC and PS4 would use optical/coaxial audio output which the switch converts to 3.5mm audio for the speaker. Here's an example of such a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BCF450/

If your PC only has analog 3.5mm output, then you would want to get an optical to 3.5mm converter and a 3.5mm switch.

Here's an example of an optical to analog 3.5mm converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/
Here's an example of a 3.5mm switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/

If both your PC and PS4 are connected to the same display and you are using HDMI for both, then you could get an HDMI switch with 3.5mm output. Here's an example of that kind of switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G46V5N4/

I have't used any of the products that I've linked to so those links are not recommendations. They could be complete junk for all I know. I've only provided those links as references for what kind of device you should look for in your research.

Also, when looking for converters and switches you need to be really careful about which direction the signal is going. The switches/converters are typically not bi-directional which means they only work one way. An optical to analog 3.5mm converter will not work as a 3.5mm to optical converter. You need to be aware of which is input and which is output.

What kind of speakers do you have? What sort of input or jack do they have on them?

'Optical audio' is a pretty common standard for delivering stereo or surround sound over fibre optic cable, and lots of devices support it.

The only way it's important to you is if you were to get a speaker system that accepted optical audio, since you could use that as the output for audio from your PS3. There's also some headsets that use it.

If your monitor does not have a headphone jack on it, your best bet will likely be to get yourself a device such as this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

...then make sure your PS3 is outputting audio over Optical/SPDIF.

Perfect thanks. I'll buy those two items so. So just to clarify, TV to this adapter using this cable, and then an aux cable from adapter to subwoofer?

Sorry I worded it wrong. I just meant because amplifiers with a digital input are usually more pricey.

Could I do something like using this $13 DAC and $67 mini-amplifier together?

Not directly from the headphone jack, but you can plug a SPDIF-to-headphone adapter into that jack and use that, something like https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0

> Also, switching between inputs, is it just normally controlled through the monitor?

Yes

> is it possible to get one without the built in speakers and connect an external speaker to the ps4 instead?

The only audio outputs on the PS4 are through HDMI or Optical.

In order to output audio from the PS4's optical port to most speakers, you will need a optical to 3.5mm analog audio adaptor like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

Unless your speakers already have an optical input.

> I see, well I do have a TV but my family uses it so I can't really hop on and play on my ps4 when I want to.

So why not buy a second TV? As you see, it doesn't cost too much more than a monitor. Just a thought

2 - I don't need any "sound distortion" or bass boosting or anything like that - I just want digital out. My motherboard has no toslink, and my monitor has no audio out, so I can't use the audio over HDMI. I'll be plugging the "digital out" into a cheap generic dac such as this (link below). The dac will be feeding into some cheap desktop speakers, Logitech Z130's. I'm not looking for audiophile quality stuff, just looking to get rid of the hiss & interference that's audible when plugged into the 3.5mm jacks (rear or front panel)
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1486317310&sr=8-13&keywords=dac

My bad, it was late when I posted that comment and I didn't look at the ports properly. OP, if you buy a optical to phono adapter you can go out of the soundbar, into the adapter via optical cable and then out the adapter to the projector via phono to phono. Here is an example of the adapter you will need. PROZOR DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R R/L Converter Adapter - PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Sky HD Plasma Blu-ray Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV with Optical Cable Power by USB Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pICPybMYWPYZV t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cY1ACbC7Q5ZV4

TV USB port will power the unit; use the "HDD 5V/1A".

Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?

Edit: Nvm I do need to box.

Sorry for all the posts. I don't know if you'll get separate channels with a basic 3.5mm to RCA connector.

If you get a 3.5mm to digital coax:
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-Premium-SPDIF-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B00V436UQU

And run that to a DAC:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

You should keep your L/R channels for RCA. Monoprice might have better pricing on the cable; a lot of the ones on Amazon were for optical-to-coax.

What kind of TV and amp are you using? I wouldn't spend too much trying to get an analog setup working.

Look up digital audio converters on Amazon. They're like 20 bucks. Mine plugs into the optical port in the PS4, and it has a standard 3.5mm jack. It virtually killed audio latency for me.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=dac&qid=1568122459&s=gateway&sr=8-4

That one is similar to mine, but mine has a volume knob.

I have this one that I bought. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ilIIDb4M9338V
I've got it set up and I can get audio from switching through menus just nothing else. It's very odd.

Is this what the back of your TV looks like?

https://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/tv/samsung/n5300/n5300-inputs-back-large.jpg

That shows that the ONLY audio output from that TV is OPTICAL. The RCA jacks are all INPUTS (as shown by the label)

So you need an optical (TOSLINK) to analog (RCA) adapter.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

That model has both RCA Left and Right (White and Red), and it also has a 3.5mm "headphone" output jack.

So apparently the headphones are quite easy to power so shall I just get a dac?

something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519405018&sr=1-4&keywords=dac

You are a life saver something like this??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XaLhDbV7VMMQW

Is this something I would need to use? https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Converter-PROZOR-Toslink-X-Rocker/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_12?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1474482613&sr=8-12&keywords=Digital+to+Analog+Audio+Converter&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

Sorry I'm not entirely sure what you mean. Headphone/auxiliary from the ps4 into the DAC(?) and then into the amp?

According to the pictures you posted, you can get audio out from the TV using the SPDIF/TOSlink fiber optic cable (labeled digital audio out) and then audio in to the DVD/Home Theater box using analog RCA (labelled input aux in), so you just need a converter in the middle like this.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QRE6CJCFF30P79A567EB

This specific one includes the digital audio cable, so you need to also get the RCA (red/white) audio cable to go from the box to the DVD player.

In that case, you could get an Optical to 3.5mm adapter like this-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iCNqDb5WMDCBW

Basically you’d connect your Xbox One to the box via an optical cable, and then you can plug your speakers into either the 3.5mm jack, or the red/white RCA plugs. Then you just go into your Settings on your Xbox and set the audio settings to output through the optical port.

i use elgato and if i have the audio coming from the Elgato i will run into the issue of 3-5 seconds audio delay, then the audio isnt real time... Only thing i could think of would be using this and pulling the audio from the Optical port on the PS4 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=LQRKMHHEUTVH&coliid=IW7AZX6IKB6OR&psc=1 and then adding a delay to the Mixer audio in OBS so everything is synced

Video & Audio for the Gameplay, THis way i hear it in realtime but my stream is also synced up.

I'd avoid eBay, it's full of Chinese crap. Best get from Amazon as they do returns. This one gets good reviews
PROZOR DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R R/L Converter Adapter - PS3 XBox HD DVD PS4 Sky HD Plasma Blu-ray Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV with Optical Cable Power by USB Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_reFqxbS58Y97P

My computer does not have an optical in and I cant seem to find a link of the product you linked on amazon.

Will this also work for my needs?
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511507826&sr=8-3&keywords=dac

Don't all Xbox One's have S/PDIF? I which case you can get an S/PDIF to analogue converter. Worked really well on my 360. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KNNSKV0

One of these should work fine. You will need an RCA to RCA cable to go into your speaker's AUX inputs.

You can get a Digital to analog converter to connect the receiver to the TV.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Amps Apple TV Home Cinema

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d5ZjDb5ZQFTAK