Reddit reviews Quali-Pro Prodiamine 65 WDG (Generic Barricade 65 WDG) (5 lbs) - Pre-Emergent Herbicide

Use Quinclorac and MSO Surfactant to kill.
Use Prodiamine to prevent.

Here are some basic steps:

(1) Buy SpeedZone and a sprayer. Mix and blanket spray AS SOON AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN, being sure to not cut or water your lawn for two before or after application. SpeedZone won't kill all of your weeds - grasy ones like crabgrass and nutsedge are able to dodge it - but it will quickly kill the overwhelming majority and the coming cold weather will kill the rest.

(2) Wait two weeks. During this time gradually reduce your height of cut to as low as you can take your grass without damaging it, probably somewhere around 2". Bag clippings for these mows. Also, spend some time budgeting for and researching your next steps.

(3) At the two week point, mow a final time. If you can afford to, rent or buy a dethatcher and dethatch your lawn to get rid of all the dead grass and weeds. (If you do this, be sure to rake up or use your mower to vacuum up all of the dead stuff). Also - if you can afford to and have the time - rent a core aerator. Move quickly on both steps, try to get them done in the same day. If you aerate and your lawn isn't enormous, I'd recommend raking up the cores and tossing them but that certainly isn't mandatory.

(4) Hopefully in that two week waiting period you researched seed. Now is time to throw'er down. Use a spreader and apply seed. If your lawn was REALLY 60% weeds then you will want to put down about 1.5 times more seed than is recommended on the bag for overseeding. Tamp or roll your seed into your soil. Top with Scotts Starter Plus Weed Preventer. Cover with a light covering of peat moss, EZ straw or some seeding mulch. The latter are particularly helpful if you have hills or slopes that you are planning to overseed.

(5) WATER. The number of times you water and amount you water will depend a lot on your individual property. Make sure the soil is damp but not muddy at all points. For me that usually amounts to short waterings at 7am, 11am, 3pm and 7pm. Water more frequently or deeper if it is atypically hot.

(6) Wait as long as you can to mow. Three weeks would be great, but isn't always doable, particularly if you have an HOA ready to violate you for overgrown grass. When you do mow, you can use either mower, though the reel mower might be a little lighter and hence gentler on the new grass. Either way, you want to get on and get off as quickly as possible and avoid making any abrupt turns that could rip the new seedlings out of the soil.

(7) This could be the most important one of all... next spring, probably around the first week of April, apply a pre-emergent. This will prevent many - though certainly not all - weeds from showing up in your lawn.

Hope this helps.

I'm really bad at identifying, but is that crab grass???

If it is, the crabgrass should mostly die at first frost. Or you can put crab grass killer right before over seeding.

Be sure to put a pre-emergent in early spring

https://www.amazon.com/Prodiamine-Generic-Barricade-5lbs-ali8056/dp/B004GTQBEK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=prodiamine&qid=1566879744&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Okay so. Here's what I'm thinking. I only saw the picture you posted, so it looks like you have 1,000 square feet or less, yes? That makes it kinda easy.

First we'll need to know which zone you're in. That will help pick your grass type. It looks like you have cool season grasses, which means you'll be choosing among various fescues, Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, etc. That's kind of up to you. Do a little googling and see what you come up with.

Second, you have a lot of weeds in there. It looks like you have either poa annua (annual bluegrass) or poa trivialis (Hell on Earth), or possibly both mixed in there. Those are seriously not good. Not only do you have a lot of weeds, it looks like you might have a significant mix of grass types, and I'm not positive that it's worth saving. Here's what I would do. Keep in mind that this might be overkill for you.

From now until July:

• Get a soil test. Your local agricultural or state university will probably have a soil test program. This will help you figure out how best to treat your soil with fertilizer when it comes time to grow real grass. (~$30)
  
• Kill off basic broadleaf weeds with a 2,4-D product before they can drop seeds and make next year worse. This one is probably one of the easiest. Your choice. (~$10)
  
• If you're feeling like you want to care for your soil, throw down some Milorganite. Not exactly necessary at this time cause we don't know what your soil test will come back with. (~$14)
  
  Sometime in July:
  
  
• Spray a glyphosate product to kill everything. I use this one, but you can also use RoundUp from any hardware or big box store. The active ingredient is the same. (~$30)
  
• It will take ~2 weeks to see results from the glyphosate. At roughly the 14 day mark, hit everything else that's green with another application.
  
• Optional but recommended: level out your soil and make sure it's flat, to help with a uniform look.
  
• Not recommended: tilling. It helps stir up weed seeds and encourages weed growth at the same time that you're trying to plant grass seed.
  
  Mid/late August:
  
  
• Seed with your given grass type. Do this at least 7 days after your last glyphosate application, 14 days afterwards is preferable. I suggest seed as opposed to sod because it's cheaper. Seeding is kinda its own post because you may need to cover with topsoil, flatten ground, irrigate, yadda yadda yadda. We can talk more about that when the time comes. ($10-$100)
  
• Add a starter fertilizer with your seed. Whichever fert you choose will be based off of the results of your soil test. ($10-$30)
  
  After a couple months, you should have a pretty healthy crop of baby grass, and then it will go dormant for the winter. Not a problem. Once spring hits, start following this lawn care schedule from the Lawn Care Nut. Most of that guy's videos are gold, and I strongly recommend that you watch them.
  
  It will take a little time and more than a fair amount of patience, but I'm pretty sure all of that will (at least for the first year) come in under budget, and it will end up with the results that you want. Especially in the long run.
  
  EDIT(s): Forgot to mention a couple things. I had a little more whiskey than I thought.
  
  Geographical zone will be in the sidebar.
  
  Also go with a pre-emergent in the spring if you aren't adding seed. The most popular 3 brand names are Barricade, Dimension, and Tenacity. Their generic names are prodiamine, dithiopyr, and...tenacity? Honestly I'm not sure if there's a generic for Tenacity cause it's not legally usable in my state. But seriously a pre-emergent will cut your weed problems down by SO MUCH.
  
  Estimated cost for the first year is $214 (minus water, topsoil/peat moss, and possibly tools such as a hand pump sprayer and a broadcast spreader) at the most, and $114 at the low end.

Thanks /u/Ed-k! Is there a brand/type/specific something or other that people recommend for Prodiamine? I just searched for it on Amazon and this came up: https://www.amazon.com/Prodiamine-Generic-Barricade-5lbs-ali8056/dp/B004GTQBEK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=prodiamine&qid=1549916972&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Do I just order this and spray the whole yard with it? Is there somewhere/something better to get? Appreciate the insight.

https://www.amazon.com/Prodiamine-Generic-Barricade-5lbs-ali8056/dp/B004GTQBEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=prodiamine+65+wdg&qid=1558656733&s=gateway&sprefix=prodiamin&sr=8-2

Ah $67. Amazon's making a liar out of me.

I put down some pre emergent earlier this year and so far no poa annua.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GTQBEK/ref=oh_aui_bia_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but I'm not overseeding either.

Haha sorry!

So you do have grass there. It's dormant from the cold. Now is the time to prepare it for the transition to summer. The best offense against the weeds that come with summer is a good defense. A pre-emergent, like the name suggests, stops weeds before they have time to emerge/germinate. A weed control, also known as a post-emergent, is used to control the weeds that are currently visible.

http://www.imageforweeds.com/St-Augustine/index.html

The active ingredient in this product is Atrazine (always check the package label to make sure Atrazine is the listed active. Image for nuts edge is imazaquin which is not what you're looking for). It is a dual purpose herbicide that prevents and controls weeds to come and those visible. You can purchase it in a garden hose attachment form which makes application easy.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Trba9R9oU78

This is a pretty good tutorial. He's spraying ppre emergent but you can substitute any herbicide or pesticide. Measurements are key to a successful application. Measure the area of your backyard. If you have a 4,000 soft back yard, and the product calls for 1oz/1000 sqft, then you know to mix and apply for 4oz of material. Sometimes you'll see 16oz/acre ~ 16oz/44,000sqft ~ .4oz/1000sqft ~ 1.6oz/4,000sqft.

While Atrazine does a good job, it does not do a great job, and it is not your only option. Were it my lawn, I would use a half rate of Atrazine + a regular St Augustine rate of speed zone southern.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LBBHE0

The Speedzone will catch more weeds that Atrazine will leave behind. And for a pre-emergent, I would use Barricade ( Prodiamine).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004GTQBEK/ref=pd_aw_sbs_lg_1

You can purchase it in WDG form (water dispensable granules) which allows you to dissolve it in water, mix, and spray it, OR you can apply it as granular with a spreader. You can buy it for a very high prices in flowable liquid form as well. Anytime you can spray pre-emergent either with WDG or flow able form, you will get consistently better results than granular.

One application of these three products will have you in the right direction. Mid May I would fertilize with a slow release fertilizer with iron (4.0% or higher iron content. Check the bag for percentages). You're safe to use a higher nitrogen blend like a 24-4-8 or a 34-0-4. The important aspects will be the iron and the slow release. You want to apply this at 3-4lbs/1000sqft.

Let me know if you have anymore questions. By the way repeat the pre-emergent process come September. You'll need to do pre-emergent applications every fall and spring otherwise, see original lawn photos.

Prodiamine 65 WDG seems to be popular here and it is what I used this year. The jug is full of little granules that are intended to be dissolved in water and sprayed with a tank sprayer. It's cheap and the common 5 lb jug will last many years for a typical property. Because it's dry you don't have to protect it from freezing over winter. The label says it can be safe to use on Zoysiagrass.

Thanks for the advice! That is very helpful. I'm planning on getting this from amazon, it's cheap enough that it looks like I'll be able to spray the entire lawn with it and have enough left over for the entire summer since it's supposed to be diluted 2 tsp/gal.

​

For the Nitrogen would you recommend going with something that is pure nitrogen like this (46-0-0), or some other type of mix like a 10-10-10?

​

Trying to make the same decision here too. Why wouldn't I just buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Prodiamine-Generic-Barricade-5lbs-ali8056/dp/B004GTQBEK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=prodiamine&qid=1551104007&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-2

​

I'm guessing this would last several several applications wheras a bag of solids would only last 1 or so.

I was recommended Barricade or Dimension so I want to prepare for the fall to get my lawn ready for the spring but both had this disclaimer on some listings. I'll try to see if I can find one that does not have this warning. Thanks