Reddit reviews Rust-Oleum, Gray, GrayRust-Oleum 249279 Automotive Filler Primer Spray Paint, 11 oz, 11-Ounce
We found 16 Reddit comments about Rust-Oleum, Gray, GrayRust-Oleum 249279 Automotive Filler Primer Spray Paint, 11 oz, 11-Ounce. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Filler primer is suitable for use on wood, metal and fiberglass surfacesOil based paint with Stops Rust formula provides rust resistant base coat for cars, trucks and other vehiclesCovers up to 12 sq ft and dries to the touch (and can be recoated) in 10 minutesFiller spray paint fills minor surface imperfections with excellent rust resistanceFlat finish can be covered with any topcoat with superior adhesionFor use on metal, wood and fiberglass surfacesAny-angle spray technology allows the can to be sprayed in any direction, even upside downStops Rust Formula prevents corrosion and rustFills in minor scratches and surface nicks to leave a smooth, paintable surfaceThis item is not for sale in Catalina Island
This is really awesome. I still have parts of this helmet printed but never finished it (its on the list). I'm a prop maker by trade and I just wanted to give you some tips for further smoothing if you're ever so inclined to do more :D
Several layers of filler primer gets rid of the minor print lines on all surfaces. 3-4 layers with sanding in between gets rid of all of them and they come out crazy smooth. Bondo Spot putty is also amazing for anything else the filler primer may have missed.
Another material I've seen used for smooth is wall spackle! Its a bit easier to manage than Bondo/filler primer and a bit easier to sand. note: It does not like to be wet sanded lol.
For example, here's a mask I finished. printed & finished
here's a mask in different phases of finishing
If any one else is interested, I have a full tutorial on this process here
I've heard you can use filler primer for smaller cracks, and bondo for larger cracks/seams.
I would, of course, test how the PLA reacts to the primer, first, though. Wouldn't want to ruin a 20 hour print!
For me high speed (Dremel/finishing sander) sanding on PLA only made things worse.
The plastic started to melt into the sandpaper, ruining the sandpaper quickly without accomplishing much.
If the details of the print can survive it, the best way to finish PLA is to hide everything under primer paint.
Hit the PLA with 120 and 220 sandpaper by hand. Light and slow are the operative words here--plus patience. 120 may not be needed or may even be counter-productive on 0.1/0.05mm parts.
Do a second pass with 400 grit. The part should be relatively smooth to the touch.
Then I apply filler primer (smaller details, not going to sand, don't want to smother) or sandable filler primer (flat surfaces, larger details, both details and surfaces can be sanded by hand).
Filler primer of either sort works best in many light coats rather than a few heavy applications.
Sand filler primer with 400 (or 220 if there's somehow too much of it). You can even step up to 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 (I did this to ONE part). Again, light and slow or the sandpaper will quickly pick up paint that is now mashed in, ruining it. Don't bother hitting the PLA with anything above 400 grit--it doesn't work well and eats through sandpaper. You're better off using higher grits on the paint rather than the part.
Finally apply whatever paint or other colors you want on top of the primer.
I highly recommend a competent "shop-vac" to contain dust and lengthen the lifetime of your sandpaper. If you don't sand too "hard" most of the plastic/paint will vacuum right out, greatly extending the lifetime of each piece.
For me, I have found this one works the best:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I print PLA. I haven't tested this with ABS, but it probably works just as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0
This is what I usually use. Pretty much whatever the hardware store has, though.
That's super cool. With your blessing, I might do something similar for a friend's upcoming wedding.
In case you haven't seen it, filler primer is amazing for priming 3d prints for paint. Give it a few coats, hit it with sand paper/files, and you get an amazing, smooth surface, but that doesn't obscure details.
I usually dont have much to fill, just need to hide layer lines if I choose too. I use a filler primer, usually rust-oleum
Edit: thats not the exact one, just first result on amazon
Thanks! I printed him with PLA filament and then did a couple of coats of this filler primer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Did a lot of sanding with different level grit sandpaper to smooth him out and then once it was all done I started painting him with acrylic paints :)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I used, hopefully its not too much more expensive but it was $4.70 for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527609462&sr=8-5&keywords=filler+primer
I've used both this and this. I prefer the DupliColor because the Rustoleum has a stronger smell. You also need to be careful with the Rustoleum. Whenever I start a new can, it tends to spit blobs of gunk for the first few seconds.
Capillary issue hadn't occurred to me before, but it makes sense. But if you are going to acylic matte prime it anyway, I guess trying to fill those layer gaps first is a step worth taking.
Something like a filler-primer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Curious your bondo workflow. Seems like you can lose a lot of detail . Have you considered using 2-3 coats of this Primer Filler.
I have used this on restores. Since you are working on new stock, two coats would work. Use an orbital sander 120, 220, and then 320 grit discs.
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495341881&sr=8-2&keywords=high+fill+primer
There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.
All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.
If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.
If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.