Reddit reviews Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual LED lit Power Switches (HB-UMLS)
We found 60 Reddit comments about Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual LED lit Power Switches (HB-UMLS). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Instantly Add Four USB 2.0 Ports to all Compatible Device.Easy Setup, Plug-and-Play, Hot Swappable, Hot Pluggable.Gain Four, Downstream Ports Which Offer High-Speed (480Mbps), Full-Speed (12Mbps), And Low-Speed (1.5Mbps).Intelligently Designed to Be as Thin as Possible, Allowing you to Maximize Precious Work Space or Travel with ease.Backwards Compatible With 1.1 Devices and Hosts.
I have one of these bad Larrys so all I have to do to turn shit on and off is press a button. I feel like a wizard!
Highly recommended, btw. That thing is pretty durable and works with every usb I've tried without issue. Plus, 7 bucks!
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414529601&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+expander boom.
If you haven't already about one, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M
Super cheap; works perfectly with the PS4.
In that case I'd probably get a cheap usb hub as well - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492989540&sr=1-5&keywords=usb+extension.
Keep it connected to your router much easier to setup and you can share media through different devices.
I store my media on NAS device and managing it through /r/PleX media server. Works extremely well and does all the transcoding.
The NP though is connected through [Ethernet Network Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [4-Port USB 2.0 Hub] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). just make sure its 2.0 usb dont know why but 3.0 wont work.
No but get one of these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453228438&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+hub+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=519JLN5GTLL&ref=plSrch
You can get a hub for under $10. I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414788313&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub
Problem solved
OKAY! So, I think this is pretty much everything that makes my setup what it is. If you see anything I’ve missed and are curious about, or want more details as to how everything came together, lemme know!
(Didn’t trust USB 3.0 with my wireless accessories, and I love the individual button on control on this guy. Plus, you can’t beat that price!)
Materials and Tools Used, Step By Step:
Base pieces:
3/4” pine (ply for base, solid for wrist rests)
Table saw for cutting large pieces
Jig saw for details and wrist rests
Molding wrist rests/rounding edges:
Belt sander (Turned upside down, ‘cause I’m not super strong lol)
Wrist Rest Adhesion:
Wood clamps
Wood glue
Attaching Hardware:
Drill with 3/16 and 5/16” bits for cam lock screws
1/4” Drill bit for threaded inserts
1/4” Threaded Inserts
5/8” Forstner bit for cam locks - $8.97
1/4” Dowel Centers for lining everything up - $5.83/4-pack
12mm Cam locks/screws
Finishing product:
Detail sander, 150-grit
Hand Sanding, 220-grit
3x Minwax Deep Mahogany Stain
2x Minwax Fast Drying Gloss Polyurethane
Logitech Trackman Marble Adaption:
Blade for scoring trackball and cutting cover
Hacksaw the tail off
Sand down with 220-grit
Cardboard (from inside of a binder cover) to create cover piece
Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic Spray paint to sorta match
The other two things you’ll see in the pics are more specific to my transcription job, but in case there’s any interest:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1_m?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411509537&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+hub
Mine is an original wired Xbox controller.
I am using a non-powered hub. Here's the one I have.
Sorry, I just added the link. Would a hub like this work, if plugged into a cigarette lighter adapter in a car?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373999536&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+hub
the thunderbolt dongle won't help because that port on the 2012 macbook is a mini-display-port. Same entry hole, different standard. I would recommend getting a cheap usb 2.0 hub like this one. You can also buy USBin to firewire out adapters
Ah crap, I knew I forgot something. This is the hub I plan on getting right now.
I guess that depends on what it is he wants to power. If his retail business is selling weed and he needs to keep those 6-8 burner phones charging (kidding! :p) then it wouldn't take much demand at all and the PSU here will be fine - it's a no-name budget one, but the power demand is extremely low (129W on a 480W PSU) so it's not going to cause issues, but if it is more demanding items he might be best to use something like an EVGA 500W/600W for $20 more - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V9bp99/evga-power-supply-100b10600kr
The motherboard has six USB inputs and typically cases have two on the front - one would be used by the wifi adapter and likely two more by the keyboard and mouse leaving five. The easiest way to add more might just be to get a USB splitter which use one but give four, so bring him back up to 8 inputs available, good ones can be had for less than $10 - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501748521&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+splitter . You can get motherboards with more inputs but typically they tend to cost a good deal more than that.
If you want USB mics, then there are such things as USB port 'extensions' (such as this one). If you want XLR mics than you can get a Audio Interface/Mixer (a mixer would probably be best for podcasting) that is powered by USB, so you can plug the mics into the mixer/interface then plug that into your computer.
I've seen USB hubs with switches to turn off specific ports. You could set up the controllers, wire the switch up to an exterior panel (or leave the buttons exposed) and use the button to enable/disable controllers.
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KT0pzbNVJYYM9
That is literally the first result from amazon, but I've seen 8 port ones with physical switches as well, which you may be able to extend out of the cabinet.
Yes you take up 1 port but on the bright side it does come with a spilt for charging + reciver
The Plus model just came out recently so there actually is not many bluetooth ones around. They only have the Blue colored (heh) bluetooth i8+ it also it a bit more at 27.99.
Honestly what I would do, if I wasn't using an rpi3 which has 4 usb slots, is get the RF for 21.99 then get a 4 way usb splitter for your other port for 6.49
Here's a dope ass chrome rii i8+ lol
Hurrah, hurrah! ^____^ <3 I submit to you, this handsome USB hub!. And, for my furry friend, a gift he will probably hate. Ohohoho! (-: Thank you for the contest. It's too damn hot outside. It's too damn hot inside!
It's not so "cool" but rather quite practical... I guess the lights are kinda cool =) I'm gonna be needing these pretty soon
Thanks for the contest.
A thirdworlder could have fixed this problem.
Hell, they probably built it.
I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=519JLN5GTLL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X
As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.
Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.
The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.
For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1
This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
Other links for reference:
TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
which ones? Used these and this for my blue monitor ones but the consoles have color change strips from Ikea (this one).
Here
This thing is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You would need to buy a 5V adapter for it though.
Just tested this with my new Poker II
iPad Air
Poker II
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LED Only $7
I just ordered this hub. Hopefully it'll work out alright
Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works
Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SX200_QL40
T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&amp;amp;sr=8-18&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40
Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&amp;robot_redir=1
The fans appear to be the same size, I really didn't look closely. The fan you found definitely looks easier to mount onto the back of a cabinet the only issue i see is the way you power the fan is usb. If you have a free usb port on each system/available in each cabinet then that could work. If you want to rig up something using one of the usb hubs I linked below with a few usb extension cords that can work. Another option is to buy a surge protector or outlet plug in that comes with a usb port to plug in your fan.
Edit: forgot the link..... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=1JH8R13VJQ9BM6NJZ0TQ&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
Cool! Thanks for the help.
One last question. Would this hub work well with Bitcoin miners?
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ECG.ub12MSXEF
Get a USB hub like this one. Since you are on an A+, a powered USB hub may be a better option, but either will work.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427400654&amp;sr=1-1
I suggest this and this
I bought the hub and it works great. First one I bought didn't.
I found this and this
Are these good choices?
With those you are limited to remapping in mame/pi menu. But even with an ipac 2/4 you would still have to set the buttons up. I think your biggest concern is "what happens if i map encoder 1, and it's later recognized as encoder 2?" It would be. .. a pain in some situations to unplug and replug. My workaround was one of these :
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/136-1115726-2818104?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BWF5U0M&amp;pd_rd_r=309ad5d9-8905-4f67-b539-bade9fc09f1a&amp;pd_rd_w=X25Yb&amp;pd_rd_wg=0qo89&amp;pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&amp;pf_rd_r=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8TXAKTGX7N5Q7G9Z882P
In the very rare event during powerup my usb's get disorganized, i simply hit the four buttons off, and power on in sequence. Its happened twice in a year, but the lack of headache was worth 6 bucks (less probably through monoprice).
Still think this is the best USB port out there for the price. Having a light switch is so convenient.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BWF5U0M - Decent reviews but I'm not entirely set on it.
Simple solution to this problem.
I have a Sony Wireless speaker system that has a transmitter that connects up to the PC thru USB. When I switched to Windows 10, I was bummed to find out that Sony's latest driver for the AirPC10T is Windows7. Although it works on Windows 10, just like the old joystick drivers, my PC won't sleep. THE SIMPLE SOLUTION I WENT WITH: I bought a Sabrent 4-Port Hub that has push buttons to turn on/off any individual port. For $7, it is hard to beat this solution: I now simply toggle off my USB transmitter port when I go to put the PC to sleep. Sure, I'd rather have Sony write a new driver, but their customer support made it clear they aren't going to do that. Here is the hub with toggles that I bought last month, and has been working great so far. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M
I use this Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0XZMS084V62M2T68359E
And the keyboard i use is the AKAI MPKmini:
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Mini-Controller/dp/B00IJ6QAO2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480882934&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=akai+mpk+mini
Both work great for me.
The reason I needed to use a usb dongle is because I am buying an air remote mouse(https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/) and it has its own bluetooth dongle to work.
That is nice, I am also planning to do the same because I have Buffalo Snes USB controller. I am planning to install retroarch in it :)
So will a USB hub like this suffice?(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/)
And also I have one last question. Is it normal to lag on 60fps videos on Youtube? I thought this box is strong enough to handle 4k 60 fps o.o
Actually, I just thought of something. You could give this a try if you want a physical button.
You would just have to turn off one of the USBs then turn the other one on.
Alternatively, you maybe able to get away without it by setting the default audio device to the TEAC headphone amp and then turning the amp off when you want to use the speakers. this way when you turn off the teac, it will default back to the speakers, but when you turn on the teac it'll recognize the headphone amp as the primary audio device.
This is all assuming you are using a windows computer. I'm not quite sure how the mac audio drivers work.
This is the one,
ww.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419616564&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+hub+switch
Also this if you want to keep your stuff all in the system.
Try a USB2 hub.
USB hub with switches for each port. (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414497612&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=usb+hub)
I have a backlit keyboard, and a usb fan on my desk, I use this to turn them on or off.
You can't turn off the wheel so the easiest solution might be using a USB hub with switches. Then you can just press the button to turn off the usb port and the wheel. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M
If you are a Canon shooter, for tethering i strongly recommend Kuuvik Capture.
Not sure if it can handle multiple cameras, but i have used it and Lightroom both to capture multiple angles, using a usb hub that could switch each USB on and off. I used [this](Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) one.
constant unplugging and replugging the phones is very annoying. That's where this USB hub comes in handy.
You can just turn on the port for whichever phone needs to charge without ever needing to unplug the wires.
Yea, I just have a cheap Sabrent one that serves my purpose well enough since the vast majority of my USB ports are only USB2. If I buy another one down the line I'd probably invest a few more bucks for the Anker one so I don't have to worry about accidentally turning off the switch by bumping it.
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cIgExb45ZDCS3
Lol forgot the link
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1566270401&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Try these. I'm about to upgrade to dual monitors.
USB to VGA adapter
powered USB hub
USB hubs plug into a USB port and give you say four new ports to plug into. Sort of a splitter. Using a 2.0 hub downgrades the connection so if you are having a weird conflict oy wpm't be the same sort of thing.
Having said that, it should work. The ATR has a lifetime limited warranty. Email their support and see what they say.
Here is an example USB hub.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/
!
The cheapest and most generic one on Amazon at the time, here it is http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M Works great!
Few more questions if you don't mind answering: Do I need two of these cables to connect my monitors to the interface?
And should I run my Axiom controller through the interface or just via USB?
And is it safe to connect the interface via a USB hub like this?
I just got my PlayStation classic last week so I'm new but catch on fast. Thank you again. This is the hub I'm using. Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Mw2iDb3PAE14R
Is there any disadvantage or negative affects to having a USB splitter plugged into a usb port on your pc. In terms of power or that specific USB will it ruin it or wear it out etc? something like this(Below)?
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483577849&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+splitter
Didn't find any software-based solution. What you can do is to use a USB hub with individual power switch for each port to power down a USB drive after ejecting it in settings.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M
im a bit confused, is there usability besides it just being a usb drive in a mac style (white, pretty, slick) ?
If not, why not get something like.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396035645&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+splitter
and have 3-4-5 more ports