Reddit reviews Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Lit Power Switches, Includes 5V/2.5A Power Adapter (HB-UMP3)

Parts List

Old telephone ringer box

RaspberryPi

Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys

Powered USB hub

Amazon USB speakers

PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)

IR receiver/sender

GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!

old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support

USB mic


Edit:
forgot the pics!

Edit2: Linked everything

I have the Odyssey plus and had this issue. This fixed it:

Hub for power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and

Data repeater (active cable): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Active c goes to computer USB port; then use the hub; connect your headset to a hub port

This is the solution: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TPMEOYM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

It has a little button that toggles the power on and off and also fixed an issue I had with audio cutting out and becoming static noise. It really does feel like you have a bit more control over the headset with this usb device.

Try different USB 3.0 port. Try removing all other USB devices but keyboard and mouse.

A powered USB 3.0 hub(one with AC adapter) may help. The USB port may not be providing enough power.

A user in another thread was reporting tracking issues until he added that. I sounds weird since the Vive has it's own power adapter but I guess some stuff must be USB bus powered. Could be something dumb like the AC adapter only powers the screens and the rest is USB bus powered and its right on the edge.

Mine wouldn't track at all when I plugged it into my inateck card. No issues in the intel USBs right on my motherboard.

Just a shot in the dark, but its the only thing I've seen in these threads that may apply, and I didn't reboot when I switched to trying the USBs on my inateck card(I was troubleshooting tinny low audio) or play around with updating inateck drivers so could have been something else other than power but there was a guy that reported the powered USB hub thing in another thread. Here he was talking about sudden losses in tracking due to USB power issues: https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/8etrxc/vive_pro_20_sound_issue_what_is_the_status/dxyxt9i/


He specifically was using this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FR795WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_imu4Ab2X3H65M but of course you should be able to get away with cheaper I would imagine (I was looking at this one myself: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM)

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

Seems like a lot of negative thoughts on these. I just got a set 3 weeks ago and I absolutely love them. Completely changed by gaming experience, I've had no issues with the software (which is the same one I use for my G502 mouse and G11 KB), and I am very happy with it. I hooked the dongle up to one of these so I can just hit the button to rapidly switch between headphone audio and speakers. I love them... just don't wear them in public, they look huge and ridiculous, basically gaming only.

Huh. That VMware idea is an out-of-the-box one I hadn't thought of. Might give it a try if I can't get the other way to work.

Think it would change anything if I hooked up a powered-USB hub to the Pi, then that monitor to the USB hub (like this one for example)?

Not 100% sure what you mean.

I have a USB hub which plugs into my computer and gives me extra ports, but also has a power adaptor so it provides consistent power. This also means it can charge things when the computer is off.

This is the one I use but they are easy to find.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&keywords=powered+usb+3.0+hub&pd_rd_i=B00TPMEOYM&pd_rd_r=1090fd64-b327-442c-a523-53a8600354e6&pd_rd_w=dMv0D&pd_rd_wg=UXoff&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=0ZVQ7BTCA8G2QYQ22VMZ&psc=1&qid=1574201396

In my experience, the portal has a mind of its own. I gave up on trying to fix it and now use a powered HUB with switches.

This is the one I have. It's a press of button instead of crawling behind the PC. There's also a non-powered version that's a bit cheaper.

I have that cheap ass "hub"! Gotta love aliexpress, right? It doesn't seem to work. But for like 1.99 I had to try it.

In my experience powered hubs work MUCH better with the Raspberry Pi. Even my "good" tiny passive hub has random disconnects (can't keep the keyboard plugged in or I can't type anymore). But with a powered hub it works just fine.
This is the one I am using now and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

I like the power switches, they make it easier to plug in a power hog without having to disconnect everything else.

Here ya go!

This one works like a charm:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/

I would recommend this one for the pi 3:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

Plug in the external power to the hub and then make a loop with the pi.


Ie: Hub plugs into pi for data transfer. Then Plug the up power cable for the pi into the hub. This creates a closed loop with a power switch to turn the pi off and on.This allows you to hook up an hdd or anything else that would need external power to run. From the remaining 3 slots on the hub.

Like this one?

I've had an Odyssey for three weeks now with a 10 ft. HDMI and USB 3.0 extension. I had to use a powered 3.0 hub because I was having horrible tracking issues without one and random blue screens. I believe USB 3.0 is rated for a max of 900mA which I think can be tedious when using passive extensions. Here's what I bought :

Sabrent USB 3.0 powered hub: Link


AmazonBasics USB 3.0 extension : Link

AmazonBasics HDMI extension: Link

I just have the cable running along the floor adjacent to the wall that my desk sits next to so I haven't had the need for any mounting applications, can't help there I'm afraid. I'll be happy to try to help if you have any questions.

Here is a pretty basic powered USB 3.0 hub with a power switch on each socket.

Note that it has a 4.5 star rating... With 11,000 reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_emwmzbKG3ZJJ0

No, but this one would: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=powered+usb+hub&qid=1564515110&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Basically you just want one with an included 5V/2.5A Power Adapter.

It's possible something has caused the Macbook to now provide less power or the Scarlett to draw more. Maybe the USB power's been just barely adequate all along.

A good test would be to try another USB hub with its own power supply > Example.

Yes, this product is not what you are looking for. This hub has a unique feature that you can power on/off individual ports, but for PSC you need a hub that is externally powered (it comes with an adapter).

Your best bet is to get a USB 2.0 powered hub (usually with a 5V 2A adapter). USB 3.0 powered hubs can be expensive, and PSC can't utilize them fully.

There is a version of this product with an external power adapter:

• https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM

I have this one. It's great because it allows you to cut power to the USB ports on the hub you're not using, saving more juice to those you are (while also draining your machine a bit less, if you're not connected to the wall). I believe there is also a 6- or 8-port one from the same line.

Probably not, if by "externals" you mean spinning rust hard drives.

They only have as much power as the USB host does.

There is an input for a 5VDC adapter already on this particular hub, but it's probably easier/better/cheaper to buy them together as a kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=emc_b_5_t

I have this. You can use one external harddrive or USB 3 device on this without issues, but it's going to be problematic with multiple devices because of power draw limitations. Plus, unless you're mainly only going to be reading off those devices, multiple devices will be bandwidth starved through this. This version comes with an external power adapter to mitigate power draw issues

Not sure if this hub will work with WMR headsets but something like this would let you kill the power to the headset by pressing the button.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UM43/dp/B00TPMEOYM?th=1

You could try using a powered USB hub. Maybe try the big brother of your current one and see how that works out.

I wouldn't trust it. Is a 15 dollar hub worth the potential for causing a fire? Sabrent 4 port Powered Hub is only 15 dollars, and I'd recommend just replacing the old one.

I have a USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card and my motherboard supports USB 3.0, I found that I can run two PS Move cameras off of the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and two PS Move cameras off of the motherboard, but if I connect all four PS Move cameras to the same thing I have problems.

Right now I have two USB power switchers like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

one is connected to my motherboard the other is connected to this USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

I also have a DK2 rift tracking camera attached to the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and the bluetooth dongle connected to the motherboard.

BTW I am using the USB power switchers to make sure the cameras and bluetooth turn off.

I have 4 sensors connected to my laptop. I was fine with 3 sensors, but when I added the 4th I kept getting some disconnections, sometimes from the sensors, sometimes from the HMD itself. I was able to fix this problem completely by using a powered USB hub, and connected the HMD and the fourth sensor to it. Here's the one I used.

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter

I did. Used a powered USB 3.0 HUB and I haven't had the issue. I also use the same USB 3.0 extender. As a side note, it feels like it fixed a crackling microphone, as my friends haven't complained about it when I was talking to them. Link below:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link

I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure what the Aurora R7 is capable of, but if "powershare" doesn't exist in the BIOS on the machine or if you don't have the power symbol next to one of the USB ports, you can also use a powered USB hub to do this. I did this with my Astros for a while prior to getting a machine with the capability to run the USB +5v while off.

This USB 3.0 hub is fairly cheap off Amazon and the one I used, just note that only ports 2, 3, and 4 will actually run power while the machine is off.

Edit: Found documentation here that says it's called "USB PowerShare (S4/S5)" in the advanced section of the BIOS settings. Make sure that's on. If there are particular ports it enables, it doesn't say this outright, but check for that lightning bolt symbol mentioned in another post. Since it's a desktop it may just power all ports while off with this setting.

I use this hub:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00

with this USB:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG2A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

but I think any type of USB drive/external hard drive would work with that hub. I wouldn't recommend the drive I use because it overheats when transferring games. I even power the PS Classic from the hub...

Okay, I think I follow, but the speakers have their own amp built in, so would I really want to put the PC output through the FiiO and then into the speakers?

Would this work:

So the FiiO connects through USB, so I'd need a mixer that would have at least 2 3.5mm inputs, and at least 1 USB output and 1 3.5mm output, the USB output being connected to the FiiO and the output 3.5mm being connected to the speakers, and the inputs would be the computer and the Chromecast via 3.5mm?

Is there any particular example you'd recommend for that?

Edit: I've been thinking about it, this would probably work too but it's definitely not that seamless.

If I used this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61UUWWVypTL._SL1018_.jpg

Where the inputs would be the PC 3.5mm, and the Chromecast, and the output would be the Speaker 3.5mm.

Then I could just get this I guess: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1527808104&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+hub+3.0+switch

So I could just click a button and disconnect the Amp/Headphones.

Definitely the most intensive way to do it, I think, but I was looking around for the type of device I was describing, and I couldn't really find anything. I could very well just not be using the right terminology in my searches though so I'm not sure.

What about something like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527117699&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+3.0+hub+with+power+adapter

This is the flash drive I use

https://www.walmart.com/ip/SanDisk-CZ60-64GB-USB-Flash-Drive-Black-Red/23350701?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3281&adid=22222222228017267271&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40333383152&wl4=pla-78294668792&wl5=9006427&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=23350701&wl13=3281&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzba9i-bh4QIVSNbACh1cfgAjEAQYASABEgK4bvD_BwE

Format and add autobleem/whatever you’d like to this (in individual folders) and you’ll be cookin in no time.

Also I

Plugged my flash drive into this powered hub

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

That way I don’t feel like I run the risk of browning out/can play 2 players since the second port is typically used by the drive.

But maybe it's an illusion. like the hubs with the charging ports are rated higher because of those charging ports, and hubs with a lot of connections are also rated higher because they need more overall power to draw from all the USB connections. How do you exactly know that the specs on any of them are per port? Maybe all the USB's draw the same amount regardless of what power charger you're using? you have 4 ports.. added up is 3.6 AMPS.. Exactly what that best buy one is rated at.. Someone posted this one helped people with WMR.. what do u think
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1534041003&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub&dpID=41Pnv5luccL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch#nav-search-keywords

so something like this would work well then?

Actually, i just found this, I might [try this instead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=pd_luc_rh_sim_02_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)

I used the following to help with all of my USB devices.

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 6 Feet (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RWATK2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_LbPhybMRCMK74

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RcPhybTS87SPS

The rest of the wires were of adequate length, since I hung the pc behind my desk. I did cover the lose wires with these sleeves to help keep them more organized.

Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8dPhybG1G8XTW

Sounds like it. This is how I fixed it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cUwDCbZ24KR3P

there are ways to make the PS4 accept a 3.5mm headset as USB, but the problem is your headset probably only outputs microphone audio via USB.

you can get a cord like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-A-Female-to-2-Dual-USB-Male-Hub-Power-Adapter-Y-Splitter-Cable-Cord-/181955219317

this cord has 2 USB tails. plug the one with the USB logo into the PS4 and plug the cord without the USB logo into the power plug. this will only work if the issue is that the PS4/PC is not suppling enough power to the headset. this cord allows you to use a USB power plug to supply additional power to a USB device. this probably wont help if the PS4/PC is outputting dirty power, which is a possibility.

the other thing i can think of is a powered USB hub.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1459017815&sr=8-5&keywords=powered+usb+hub

this probably has a better chance of working.

You put the lime in the coconut and drink em both together.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM

Powered. In port 2 with 256 GB stick (Corsair) along with controller 2.

I use this without any problems.

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs Included 5V/2.5A Power Adapter (HB-UMP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_pJX5Cb48NX9JN

> Could this be causing the issues?

Oh God yes, I didn't even realize you were using unpowered external drives. That is absolutely the problem. You need to find a USB that also has its own power supply if you want to connect two of those hard drives at the same time.

Here is a powered version of the hub you have. In my experience this suggests that yours has the port for the power adapter to plug into, and if you somehow already have a compatible adapter you could just use that. The pictures don't show the exact power supply ratings though, and you should never guess if it's compatible. This hub is rated at 2.5 amps, so it should handle 2 small hard drives, but not 3.

This Amazon Basics hub has a slightly better power output, but only for the two ports on the front. The rear ports probably won't be suitable for a hard drive at all, but you could handle both drives as well as a keyboard and mouse with it. I tend to hear complaints about the quality of Amazon Basics items, though.

Yes. I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2


It was recommended by a couple posters:


https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/96y87n/wmr_usb_30_power_requirements_for_usb_30_hub/e44d6pw/


https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/99amu1/loud_screeching_noise_in_wmr_problem/e4maat4/

Try a powered USB hub, I guess.

How's this one then? Looks promising and costs less than I thought it would.

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457202818&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hub+with+power+switches

Fixed your problem :)

Do you have a lot of USB devices plugged in? Might be pushing power limits. Try to unplug every USB except for the stick and restart. Does the stick still experience the same issue? If not, then it's time to consider this or this.

First, if you haven't already try plugging the usb3 cable into the different ports on your computer, some of them might work.

If that doesn't work, you can try a powered usb 3.0 hub. Make sure it says usb3, with the blue usb ports, and make sure it uses it's own power plug. Should cost less than $20. Here's an example, you can check the reviews to see if people mention VR or WMR, because this is a really common problem. You plug it into your pc and into power, and plug the WMR into one of the ports on it. It provides more stable and higher power to the headset which is the usual cause of these problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/

Obviously I can't promise it will work. But if you google, this is the most common problem and solution with WMR.

I really recommend a powered USB hub with individual on-off switches for your peripherals. I too have a HOTAS and rudder pedals, and either older games or especially unity games often see only the first controller, or other problems. If you have a USB Hub with individual power buttons you can turn off offending controllers without having to unplug them every time.

I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1517924897&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+USB+Hub

what about a powered usb hub.

like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467081822&sr=8-1&keywords=powered+usb+hub+2.4a
but i dont know the quality, so maybe not that one but one like it.

Would this do?

Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual LED Lit Power Switches, Included 5V/2.5A Power Adapter (HB-UMP3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pdeADb7WAFM8C

He said to use a USB-Powered hub. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DokqxbT798382

There might not be enough power on your usb rail, try a different port (back or front) or a hub with a wall outlet line.

I just realized that there is no point in getting just the adapter. I am going to try a powered USB hub that comes with the 2.5A adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=50DRFK31K3J0SGDTZDDN

Once I have this then I will be certain that the power issue is solved and have extra USB slots for an 8bitdo receiver or other controllers.

I can experiment with my 4TB HD but if it absolutely must be MBR then I would only be able to use 2TB of it.

Theoretically Bleemsync should allow any file format after I have it in MBR. I think exFAT is what most recommend but I guess I will need to experiment.

Thanks so much for the info. Do you have any particular USB power hubs that you recommend? I was thinking of https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-Included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RWIG1OWQ8FC7&keywords=powered+usb+hub&qid=1563423593&s=gateway&sprefix=powered+usb%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3

Here's the powered USB hub I've used for about 5 months now with no problems.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-362wb6XV849R


Well, by "no problems", I mean I don't count the constantly plugging, unplugging, and replugging in different forms til the IPad picks it up, but I don't blame the hub for that.

Edit: Whoops, somehow i missed the "rechargeable" part. That would be pretty useful.