Reddit reviews Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)
We found 363 Reddit comments about Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Connectors: USB Type-A, Stereo output jack, Mono microphone-input jack.Driverless for Windows 98SE/ME/2000/XP/Server 2003/Vista/7/8/Linux/Mac OSX.USB bus-powered, no external power required.Reverse Compliant with USB Audio Device Class Specification 1.0
Just a word of warning - I implemented this in my car, and ran into a few hurdles:
Overall, cool project, but I retired my setup!
I bought a USB adapter to get audio out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5ZhQAbSGK1SN1
Some people think it's cheating, but many hackintosh owners just skip the audio driver problem entirely and get a cheap USB-to-audio adapter. Plug it in, plug in a set of speakers, and that's literally all you have to do.
Many people report issues with low volume on this mic. I've owned two and can confirm it is very quiet on some systems. From what I can tell, this is caused by some motherboards not supplying sufficient voltage to power this unit. A cheap usb sound card like this one fixes that problem. Definitely a good mic for the price if you're just using it for voice comms.
Did you ever plug it into one of those USB adapters? I've noticed a massive sound quality increase when using one with my Omni MM4. I didn't expect it since I have a decent motherboard and it's such a cheap piece of equipment, but it worked.
No1 selling adapter on Amazon. #2 is the metal cased version for a little more.
If you're still interested I did a project once that used all the hardware and software this would require and I could give you some pointers.
e: I used a raspberry pi and one of these rather than what he used. One advantage of doing it this way is you could do internet control so you can have a button on your smartphone instead of a combo.
e2: you'd also need a sound card for sound input on the pi to do combo input. I also used a rc filter for noise reduction/DC isolation, and a mechanical relay to hang up the phone.
The audio output on the Pi is super low quality, you will hear a lot of noise from your stereo. A cheap USB sound adapter will make a big difference. This one worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.CX7AbFTRWR18
I know it's not that helpful. But I struggled with sound out of the laptop's headphone jack for a couple months. I eventually broke down and just bought a small USB DAC and that fixed it right up and even sounded better than Window's did.
Something like this: Sabrent USB DAC [Amazon]
You might want to consider getting a USB to 3.5mm converter so you can continue to use your current headphones.
My windows laptop didn't have a dedicated mic input jack (only headphone), so I had to buy this. It works great so far :)
$7: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
No glue required.
usb DAC
something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
USB soundcards are under ten bucks and work great!
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJ2CR6MTN1FG1AFAMFXP
Pick up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Premium-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Extension/dp/B019D04S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485751174&sr=1-3&keywords=RCA+female+to+male+3.5mm
Then you just record game audio from a mic port instead. Obviously you can find cheaper ones. If you only have one mic port and dont have a USB mic, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485751227&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+microphone+adapter
Turns a USB port into stereo mic and headphone ports.
Pretty much any generic and cheap USB sound card that has mainline linux support. For example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Aside from checking cable connections, try something like a USB sound card like this one. The static could be coming from EM interference on your motherboard's built in sound processor.
I use this one to great effect: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. I second the recommendation of u/DrCoolHands for an audio transformer. Check out "Easy Digi" on ebay.
Can you try testing the sound card separately on the RPi? See if you can record something with an external mic. Could be a software/driver issue.
If you just need a cheap way to connect the mic you already have, you can buy USB sound devices for next to nothing. I realize this is an amazon US link, but I'm not familiar with your online retailers :P I'm sure you can find them without too much trouble.
Obviously they won't have the same quality as a blue snowball, but it could hold you over.
Link: http://amzn.com/B00IRVQ0F8 I bought one of these, fixes it right up. If you're looking for higher end you'll want to look at the different PI-DAC projects like hifiberry.com.
I have this mobo. I ordered this USB sound thing because I'm cheap.
You can't force it to use a device that it does not think exists.
I have a similar problem. I use a cheap USB->Audio Headphone adapter and just select it in the Sound panel of System Preferences.
Get a USB audio adapter like this and the usb extension from htc here and plus that into your vives extra usb slot.
Try a USB soundcard like this one
I just grabbed one of these when i first got my POs. it works just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
I made a cable for my FT-450 for digital modes and I think the whole thing cost me 20-30 bucks. I used the design here and then switched back and forth between Windows and Linux before settling on fldigi/flrig/wsjtx on Linux. The most expensive component was the USB soundcard dongle (this one ought to work). At some point I will probably invest in a Signalink so I can get some finer control over audio-out levels (as opposed to doing everything in the software audio mixers), but this works well enough that I'm in no big hurry.
edit: words and a link here and there.
You said your audio jack is broken. Can you buy a cheap USB to stereo out adapter and use that with normal speakers or headphones?
There are apps like SoundWire but I don't if anything like that will have low enough latency for gaming.
Open back - SHP9500s + VModa BoomPro
Closed back - Takstar Pro82 + Microphone
USB Dongle
Amazon used for convenience. Shop around for best pricing. Reviews for everything mentioned available on YouTube.
It is possible that you need a USB adapter. I have a video coming out next week that is very in depth about getting CStimer to work with a stackmat.
You can buy one cheap here: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522278823&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+audio&dpID=51QY728wxCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
For combined audio ports this will likely solve your issue.
You have to be careful, if you're not gonna plug it into a TV, because it only has HDMI since it's supposed to be a console hybrid, you need to buy a USB sound card like this , a Keyboard and mouse, and a USB hub, so you'll have more slots free. On the other hand, if you're looking for a TV steam box, you should be fine with just a controller.
I picked an external one simply because it was super cheap, well-rated, and I had heard audio samples with the modmic.
I didn't use an internal because I have a mini-ITX case and had zero room.
Here is the amazon link to the one I am using - if you decide on this, make sure to get the (AU-MMSA) model as it provides enough voltage while newer models do not.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499826634&sr=8-1&keywords=sabrent+usb+sound+card
If you can fix it easily, nice job, but don't spend too much time trying to get it to work. user badchromosome referred me to this : Just another USB dongle!
Just to add to your options :)
It really is worth it. I couldn't get my audio to work again after 10.11.4, and it was really frustrating. Having this work equally well was really fantastic and worth every penny, especially knowing if something happens to my setup, I won't ever need to try and get audio to work. It'll just work :)
It's a common issue with PC mounted audio jacks.
Best way to to get a USB adapter like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PMD2SF85Z15K025JSB8H
I had the same problem with my modmic but this cleaned the input up.
It's pretty straight forward:
heya, really just wanted to tell you that you can completely rid of the background mic static if you use something like this (just for the mic).
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
helped me tremendously.
If you want to do WiFi streaming, install $3.50 BubbleUPnP on the phone and use the Windows 10 built-in DLNA streaming. If you're on Ubuntu you can install pulseaudio-dlna and use it as output from sound settings. I'm sure there's something for Mac as well.
For USB, what you're looking for is called a USB DAC. If you're really strapped for cash and don't have fancy tastes in sound quality, or quality headphones, then one of these $5-7 puppies will take care of it. Quality is touch and go, some may be DOA and need replacing, but they'll get the job done. You can also go for a $20 Signstek (PCM2704), but I wouldn't recommend more expensive ones without knowing what headphones you're using and what you want from them.
If you do, I can recommend the $40 FiiO K1, $65 SMSL SD793-II or $75 FiiO E10K, but if you do that you should also look into putting $50-200 into decent headphones and you're probably not looking for that.
Whatever you do DO NOT get USB headphones. Decent ones are expensive, cheap ones are absolute crap. A $5 DAC like above and a $25 pair of Sennheiser HD202 will be better and can be replaced separately or even taken apart and repaired if they break.
You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.
One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.
Hope this helps.
It's an optical port, which means it uses light instead of electricity to send the signal. There are converters for those, but they tend to be more expensive than just getting a sound card.
You can get a cheap usb sound card pretty easily. Here's one for less than $7.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Maybe you need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
buy as many as you want.
If you only have two Volcas I'd just get a cheap sound card like this, it'll do what you need. An audio interface will cost probably as much as one Volca, and honestly no one listening will be able to hear the difference in quality between a sound card and an audio interface.
You won't be able to record both at once, but it's easy enough to just record them one at a time. I use one of these to record my whole setup, including synths, drum machine, and modular. For a while I kinda wanted to get a multitrack recording setup going, but then I realized it would be a waste of money and effort. Think about it: even when you have every piece of gear going at once, you only have two hands and one brain. How often do you find yourself tweaking both volcas at once?
I have used this one on PS4 and it worked just fine: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N&pd_rd_w=eHLu0&pd_rd_wg=TZuaa&psc=1&refRID=DGZYMY3WMGHXQ4H9EF7N
If you don't want to get a whole new Mobo, you can just get a USB audio dongle. Sabrent makes one for cheap -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e8B3Ab2B1HSAJ/u/whoyawn
Can I use this cable adapter and this usb splitter? I'm planning to get a speedstacks timer and I want to connect it to my laptop (only unified audio jack)
Using the USB-c to USB connector that came with my Pixel,
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Adapter-Type-C-MacBook-Google/dp/B071G6NLHJ/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=pixel+usb&qid=1566946160&s=electronics&sr=1-25
and a Sound adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I designed and printed the PO faceplates to beef them up a little and protect the buttons from getting pressed while packed away. I made the plate out of cardboard and felt so I could velcro attach the units however I wanted.
Thanks for the compliment!
(Edited to add info)
My headphone jack also went loose, and cannot properly connect a headphone any more. So, I did this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8
Works pretty darn well!
Wonder if it’s the port on the computer. Is this a laptop or desktop? You could get a usb to 3.5mm plug just to test. Let me find a link, I have one.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
You could use this with any USB hub, or get a more expensive DAC if you are concerned about audio quality.
Note that both this device and what /u/Overflooow mentions have the DAC (Digital to Analog Coverter) in the device, so motherboard audio is not used at all. If you would prefer to use motherboard audio (no real reason to), you can get a couple of a 3.5mm extensions.
I was in the same boat as you until now. My MB also uses Realtek audio (Gigabyte GA-H110M-A) and the only solution I've found for getting my mic to playback at a normal volume is using all of the following:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)
Maeline 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable
Panasonic ErgoFit In-Ear Earbuds Headphones with Mic/Controller RP-TCM125-K (Black)
Total is about $25. Weird thing is if I plug headphones and a mic separately into the USB piece the mic volume then goes back to being low.
This isn't the best solution, but I know there are a lot of folks out there struggling with crappy ass Realtek.
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452223238&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+sound+card&dpPl=1&dpID=51X7EKiV8fL&ref=plSrch
It's been great so far.
Something like this could work. If you have an extra usb.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453144607&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=usb+audio+interface&dpPl=1&dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LM0U2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498745874&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+sound+card+dual+mic&dpPl=1&dpID=41vusjGecFL&ref=plSrch
Here's the one I use, I got it for around 20 though, and it only has 2 inputs. Alternatively, you could buy two of these,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498746083&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+sound+card&dpPl=1&dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&ref=plSrch
and use them in conjunction with your computer's microphone Jack, provided you have enough usb ports.
My recommendation is to shop around, your problem should be easily solved with under 20 bucks. Good luck :)
Everyone: Thanks for the help. I assumed it was some electrical issue on her computer's end, but good to know a USB sound card works as a workaround and I don't have to go to her office and crack her computer open :) I decided to spend a few bucks to get the best-reviewed one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE
Thanks again for the help!
I tried all these things and none of them worked. My Mobo is an ASUS Z-97-E. I tried a clean install avoiding multibeast and still no sound devices detected.
I have read that the codec my Mobo uses according to its specs is not supported in Sierra.
I bypassed the problem by using this sound adaptor. I just plugged it in and viola it works and requires no driver's or configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am not the only one who has had to go this route and it's a darned cheap solution.
Hey guys, I'm trying to make a voice changer for a costume with a Raspberry Pi 3 and PitchBox software.
I have this USB soundcard connected with a mic. I know it works cause when I speak I can hear my voice through the speakers without any sort of modulation.
When I attempt to use PitchBox it gives me a "failed to open audio device error." I have the soundcard set as my default device and ALSA is the default driver. I've tried to change the device in ALSA but i still get the failed message and I've tried to change the settings in PitchBox itself but still nothing.
Any ideas on what I can try to fix this?
I had a similar noise problem on a few different systems/motherboards. What helped me was a cheap audio adapter like this.
If I had to guess, just putting the DAC outside the case was what made the biggest difference (definitely not the quality of the adapter). It's not completely noise free by any means, but it was a ton better than the integrated audio on my motherboard and people stopped complaining.
No idea if a ferrite bead would help. Sorry.
Is the Logitech headset USB only?
If so, the answer is no.
If it's a 3.5mm jack, get this external sound card for 6 bucks. You plug audio channel in for the green jack and plug in the microphone channel for pink.
You could theoretically plug in two separate headsets.
Try getting something like this see if it goes away
Thank you very much! This is the Yamaha P-45 digital piano and I'm wearing the Audio-Technica ATH-T22 headphones which came with the piano.
To record the audio, it took several components. (Bear with me, I'm gonna be as specific as possible so it might get complicated.) The P-45 has both a USB and Headphone port. To record AUDIO, you MUST use the headphone out port. (The USB is only for MIDI recordings.)
To do so, I got a "1/4 inch TRS to Dual 1/4 inch TRSF Y cable" and plugged it into the headphone port. The Y cable splits a single port into 2 connections so that I can hook one to my Mac and record audio and the other one I use to plug in my headphones (or else I won't be able to hear my playing because that headphone port is the only source of sound outward).
Now it's just a matter of attaching adapters to make a 1/4 inch cable into a 1/8 inch (the only one that'll fit into that headphone port).
I got a 10 foot, "1/4 inch TRS cable" and plugged it into one of the Y ports so that it could reach my Mac. On the end of the 1/4 inch TRS cable, I attached a "1/4 inch Female to 1/8 inch Male adapter".
Next, I attached this sound adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to my Mac, and plugged in the 1/8 inch male end into the sound adapter so that I could get audio information into my computer. Then I just used Garage Band to record the audio!
IN SUMMARY ... Piano -> Y cable -> 10 foot 1/4 inch cable -> 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch adapter -> Sound adapter -> Computer. I don't know if this is the most efficient way, but it's what I learned through trial-and-error and from hours of research over the course of a week. I am more than happy to answer any questions to make it super simple for you.
You can use USB headphone dongles on the ps4 like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484355674&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+audio&dpPl=1&dpID=510hmUWxucL&ref=plSrch
I use one on mine to connect it to better speakers causee my tv sounds like crap
So maybe get like a USB extension cable to reach you or a headphone extension cable :)
I use this one: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Works great!
umm. its complicated. Short answer is no.
the laptop jack is a 4 ring headset jack, that's different from a mic jack.
It's designed for headphones with mics built in, and also simple headphones. It will not work with microphones by default.
In some laptops you can change a setting to make it work, while in others you just can't.
I don't know what the deal with the 720 is.
Assuming you can't change a setting, alternatives are USB sound card, which can be pretty cheap and simple like this:
Or you can buy an adapter like this that fixes the wiring: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ
Most hardware stores should have either option, given how last minute your situation is.
I had this issue -- had an external sound card much like this one. If you're looking for something temporary while looking and shopping for a DAC, I would go for this (especially with the quick shipping).
I don't think it's necessarily a drop in quality compared to your computer's soundcard too. Although if your computer has adjacent usb ports, you essentially lose a port due to the design.
it is possible to short out the ports my best suggestion would be to pickup a USB to 3.5mm converter off amazon for like 3 bucks and use it
I have used this one many time and it has worked quit well
Amazon makes some pretty good USB mics for not too much and USB extenders are cheap. I think they even make USB to aux adapters. I'd say that's the cheaper more cost effective method honestly
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ3M9SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IIkXCbWC1YDH0
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH13UFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IJkXCbRQX4KJ1
And if you're really married to the idea of the turtle beaches
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lKkXCbFVXBHPP
I'm struggling to think of much else!
Can you try the headset in your phone (without the splitter this time) and confirm that it does work properly there? Also how about trying some other microphone/headset in your PC?
An odd part from your answers is that the back ports give you nothing... Are they certainly the right ones? Can you make sure your speakers aren't set to the wrong configuration (see here)? A photo of the back of your computer would be nice to confirm. I might take a poke around the BIOS in case the ports have been accidentally disabled somehow.
If it's certainly the PC that is acting up, and the headphones are fine, then a cheap soundcard would side-step the problem. USB or PCI.
There's a wide range of options, from the "$10-15, decent, it works": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/
There's fancier stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DEDCA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JUPY3A/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Or for the wealthy audiophile: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/
Longest without removing front IO: between 240mm and 250mm
Longest after removing front IO: 267mm
Vega 56 seems to be 267mm which is right at the max with no front IO, but if there's any small bit jutting out or improperly measured it may barely not fit. If you wait for non-reference cards there may be shorter ones (e.g. my ASUS DUAL 1070 is 240mm vs reference 1070 is 267mm). Otherwise, use back USB ports/get a USB hub for easier access. Use audio/mic on the rear IO or get a USB audio adapter like this Sabrent.
yes. You could get a cheap usb soundcard to get rid of that issue. If you don't care about hifi quality you can get them pretty cheap.
I had this card for my laptop where the audio port broke and the quality is ok:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1503235901&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+sound+card
Likely the audio chip got shorted out someway or another then. If you're cheap you can get USB audio for like $7.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501798280&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+audio
Ideally imo you'll want an external audio card as it'll sound a lot better than $7 audio. $38 for a sound blaster card which would sound a lot better than the USB audio.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501798360&sr=1-3&keywords=sound+card
Ok, thanks.
Would something like this do?
Or do I need a different one?
good point, thanks for your input! Do you run an external soundcard?
*edit
I was thinking of buying something like this, since the alpha doesn't have an aux headphone or mic input. No problems here, right?
got this one. shipped really fast
From what I can tell, on my MacBook Pro, the headphone port is just that. A headphone port, with no microphone adjustment. I could only make it work with my desktop.
EDIT: What you need is a USB mic-input. Something like this should work just fine.
Are you using the 3.5mm jack on your motherboard? I use it and my friends can hear static when I talk on discord. I think it's just the 3.5mm jack in general. I was planning to buy this to fix the static problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480489332&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+sound+card
Do you think it'd work?
This was recommended on the GalliumOS Braswell thread: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
A warning about Braswells with the Realtek ALC5650 audio chip (like yours): a small number of people have reported speaker damage (literal physical damage), which seems to happen more often when not booted into ChromeOS (so either at the boot menu, at the dev mode screen, or booted into a Linux).
There's no clear explanation for this, since Linux does not currently initialize the audio chip. Only the ChromeOS bootloader does any init when you're at the dev mode screen, at the boot menu, or booted into Linux. So it's (seemingly literally) impossible that Linux does anything wrong, and anyway there should be no reason for uninitialized hardware to break itself. I think it will be marginal or defective audio chips, or maybe speakers (but Braswells with the Maxim MAX98090 chip have so far not shown any problems, so for now Realtek is the common element).
Some people are disconnecting the internal speakers, which is certainly safer, but I'd probably be inclined to leave it as is, see if it fails, and be prepared to exchange it if there's any indication of problems. With zero moral hesitation.
I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.
Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).
And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.
You could always get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
They work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
I use this for audio in on my MacBook Air for my PO-12. Seven bucks. Works great.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3OlWDb09MF0WT
This thing works perfectly.
If your port is damaged, you might be able to pick up a cheap usb headphone adapter like this, no need to open case:
​
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1570265575&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3
I had a similar issue, it's an issue with some sound chips built into the computers.
Pick up something like this inexpensive USB adaptor and plug your headphones into that. It solved the problem for me.
So followup, I did try out Apple earbuds yesterday and they did not work either. Any ideas left? A friend suggested maybe trying a USB stereo adapter. Think that may work? (The solution is quickly approaching the cost of the problem now!)
Yeah I have tried a bunch of distros on it and they all have the same issues. I ended up buying one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_YCTj7pJsJmYWb for when I need sound. The last few comments on the GitHub issue suggested compiling a custom kernel may work, but the USB adapter I bought is getting me by. Let me know if you have any luck building a kernel.
No worries - I can't blame you for wanting to get native sound working :)
I think this is the card I ended up using. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Super cheap but works well for me. And it makes future hack builds easier since I don't need to get too worried about sound.
I posted this on buildapc, but didn't get any results. Hope it's okay for me to post this here too. It's a question that involves the use of a steam link.
I've got a pretty silly setup for couch gaming right now which is a result from my lack of proper research (no wireless support) before buying certain accessories. When I'm couch gaming on my TV, I'm hooked up through something like this:
Couch->XBox One Elite Controller (Wired)->Roccat Sova (Wired)->Steam Link (Wired)->PC
I'm looking to get my couch set up to be microphone friendly. My current plan is to get a USB microphone adapter to plug into the Sova, and then have my microphone/headset plugged into the adapter. (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY&pd_rd_w=LGle5&pd_rd_wg=DI0MR&psc=1&refRID=MM9NND2RJ7HJBB9CBDRY)
Would this work, or is this not enough? Do I need an external soundcard or something to have audio come through the usb in the Sova?
The other option is to hope for Steam Link to support wireless connection for the XBox One Elite Controller, and see if I can insert a microphone directly into the XBox One Elite Controller. If anyone can help out with this, I'd really appreciate it. My couch gaming setup doesn't feel very efficient, but thats also due to Steam Link not supporting the controller I have over wireless.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?adgrpid=54530774285&hvadid=274737741295&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9012095&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14103651398692699561&hvtargid=kwd-1059371388&keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1537924799&sr=8-3&tag=hydsma-20&ref=mp_s_a_1_3
You need something like this splitter to convert the Surface's 4-ring jack to a regular microphone jack.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0T6PSF
I'll tell you this: you're much better off with a USB microphone.
Something like this will also give you a real mic jack: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2USB-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B00I6ILPPC
This is the one I bought at first; it worked great until the wire started wearing out in a few months. Then I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K&pd_rd_w=FdmbH&pd_rd_wg=FCPlj&psc=1&refRID=2T2QS7R59SH47NNQZA5K
I got it since it had no wire, but I can't really recommend it as it made my volume weirdly high. I have it set on 1 in Windows (where I would have it on 20 before) and it's just as loud as it would have been on 20.
EDIT: Also note if you use Asio4All drivers, you'll also have to make it the default in the driver settings too.
I don't know about a video, I did my research on google, but I'll try to explain. Here's the setup:
Switch > aux > ground loop isolator > aux > PC (line-in, the blue one on the back)
Windows machines (and I assume Linux and Mac can do it to), allow you to listen to a recording device (such as a microphone, or line-in) on your speakers/headphones so you can hear what is coming through. In this case, if we're using Discord or Switch App emulated, we need to be able to hear game audio. This link tells you how to enable it.
There are a few problems with this however:
Might I ask exactly what your setup is? This way I could tell you exactly what you need to get, and what to plug in where.
Somewhat relevant! Good cheap solution if you ever want sound back and have an open USB port.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=78ZX18HR7GGW2Y2699T6
Try one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aqr.Bb999V5QW
You could try one of these USB sound cards.
Well damn. Sorry you have to deal with that stuff! That is really frustrating!
My last suggestion, if you are willing, is to get a cheap USB Sound Card and completely bypass your internal jack. As that could be the issue as well.
It is a really cheap test and it would let you know if it is the headset or the jack or the adapter.
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/
Or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Anyway, good luck on solving that issue man. And if they USB Sound Card works you could try some different headsets/headphones. Just remember that those USB Sound Cards are very basic and offer little to no amping. So you wont be getting the best sound quality. But it would definitely be equivalent to the onboard sound of laptops. And let you test your situation.
If you want to do a serious upgrade in sound quality, get the Sound Blaster Omni 5.1.
I have it and it amps all my headphones perfectly and has so many features and options and is rock solid. It does have an integrated mic into the unit and does noise cancel quite well but I wouldn't recommend it if you can use one on a headset as that would probably be clearer.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Just letting you know of the options, and sorry about all the info.
The reason I thought it could be the adapter or port is because I have the Game One and the SHP 9500's which are VERY open and leak sound substantially and I never get the mic picking up the audio from the headphones when using voice activated on PC or even on PS4 which is only voice activated.
Also, I just noticed something from your wording and just want to clarify something.
You are saying that when you are on a voice chat program with someone, they hear coming through your mic what is playing on your headphones right? It's not that you are hearing your mic in your headphones right? Just being sure. Because if you hear your mic in your headphones that is a completely different issue and can be disabled by going into your speaker settings and muting the mic playback which plays back to your headphones for closed headphones so you can hear yourself without having to yell it's called sidetone. Anyway, this is probably definitely not the issue but I just want to clarify so we can rule out everything else.
Does the headset show up as an input option in the audio preference pane?
If all else fails, then a few bucks for one of these might do the job.
I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.
Budget: $50 - $100
Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)
My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.
 
The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.
My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?
I had a similar issue trying to run neo pixels on pwm pin 18. From what I found that is used for audio out and causes issues trying to do both ast same time. Had to get an adapter for usb to 3.5mm. No issues after
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QrMxzbW4S3V1F
I had the same problem as you guys as when I plugged in a cd drive it fried my audio ports so I got this:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_flHQJpQW6h1ik
Yeah I think if I had to get a new motherboard I probably wouldn't do it, I can only expect that the key would be invalid so my hands are a bit tied in that aspect.
I think I might buy a USB adapter off Amazon and give that a whirl. How does this look?
Oh hey I didn't know that double clicking the icon on the tray did anything! Unfortunately all it does it bring up a volume control bar and the ability to toggle between audio devices, nothing further.
Thanks for looking into this so much!
Hi /u/Neovngr, welcome to r/LinuxHardware! :)
It's definitely possible to output audio via a USB port, in fact I recently had to do this myself just last week due to the sound chip on my motherboard dying.
What you require is a USB DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter). These generally require no drivers at all, and work immediately on any OS. Something as tiny and cheap as this would do the job, but the audio quality won't be very good and it's questionable how long it'd last.
I personally went with this DAC here due to the interesting capacitor modifications one can do to it, as detailed in the top review. But even without that, I can confirm it sounds very good indeed.
This Behringer DAC would also be a fine choice going by this review, though it is slightly more expensive.
Whatever you choose, it should be as simple as plugging it in and selecting it as the main audio device in the Pulseaudio control panel. (On my PC it shows up as 'Audio Codec Analog Stereo')
Hope that helps! \^_^
Power down the computer, flip the PSU switch off and unplug the PSU cable and then hold down the power button for about 10s or so. And then reconnect everything and power it on.
There may be a build up of electricity and it's interfering with the connection somehow.
If that doesn't fix it it may just be a bad port if you don't notice any other problems it'd be cheaper and easier to just grab a USB dac from newegg or amazon. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=asc_df_B00IRVQ0F8/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310831391922&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2520944662922269486&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045121&hvtargid=pla-563309581845&psc=1 one of these
Not sure what you mean by an External Sound Card, because the definition of that varies widely (external Headphone DAC? for example). If you mean a dongle like a Sabrent USB Sound Adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 ), then no.
You want an audio interface. They generally have a pre-amp built-in that supplies Phantom Power. Again, a Behringer UM2 is probably the cheapest one you can buy out there. The next step up is a Focusrite Solo.
I have a modmic 5 and everybody says I sound great when playing games. I have to use a cheapo usb audio adapter to take care of low input and buzz issues i had with my computer.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518242759&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+audio
You can also do your own manual setup. I have the Sennheiser Game One headset and used a $7 USB sound card as a second output and a cheap mixer to adjust volume levels. It's not wireless, but as mentioned above there's some good wireless setups that offer separate volume control.
You'll certainly need to buy something.
Here's one possible solution: First, purchase this DAC, this y-splitter, and two 3.5mm cables. Connect the y-splitter to the PS4 headset jack. Connect the DAC and headset to your PC. Use one cable to connect the green port on the y-splitter to the red port on the DAC; use the other to connect the green port on the DAC to the red port on the y-splitter.
Follow these instructions or something similar to "listen" to your mic. Select the USB audio output in step 4. This will send it to the PS4's input. Do the same thing to "listen" to your USB DAC's mic input. Select the headset in step 4. This will send the PS4 audio to your headset.
If you have any questions, feel free to comment.
In my opinion, I would save the money and just go with a usb audio adapter kinda like this one instead of investing in a new motherboard. This is mostly because older Intel boards can be pretty tricky to find at a decent price.
OK so it splits for a possible hardware fix try this have you tried any other mic? Maybe a USB mic?
I had the same issue. This fixed it and made my mic sound a lot better: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474397977&sr=8-1&keywords=sabrent+usb
If your headphones/mic combo is one single connector, you'll need this to split it into separate channels: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-MUYHSFmm-Headset-Splitter-Adapter-F/dp/B0058DOWH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474398237&sr=1-1&keywords=f+to+m+headset
Well, worst cause you could always buy something like this
Personally, I would stretch for the Dell. If the headphone jack does become an issue ChromeOS supports most USB audio devices so you could get an inexpensive USB solution like this one, or one of many other similar ones down the road.
You could also consider a refurb 2013 Pixel. They can be had somewhat cheaply but support may be lacking.
Otherwise you're probably best off with the Acer 14 even if it has a lackluster keyboard.
So something like this?
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1475
edit:
What about this?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411966291&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+audio
For just sound only: I'd avoid getting a expensive capture card, but just use a sound card instead, which you may have already! It totally depends on your PC hardware as many PCs and some laptops have a "Mic" or "Line in" Jack, but many laptops don't. A Cheap USB Sound "card" should work.. such as this one being one of the cheaper ones at £6 : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467891797&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+sound+card
You'll need a few leads such as Stereo Phono to 3.5mm jack, an Wii Composite or Component "video" cable to let the Audio out. If you want get the game pad Audio, you want a Lead with two 3.5mm jack male connectors.
Getting all that would be less than £50 with Shipping costs, and Next day Delivery Premium charge.
If I didn't have my Elgato HD Capture card, and wanted the Audio, that is the way I'd done it, with the PS2 and Gamecube.
You have different options.
If your Beats has a removable headphone wire.
V-Moda BoomPro add-on Mic.
If your Beats doesn't have a removable headphone wire.
Antlion Mod Mic Unidirectional
Antlion Mod Mic Omnidirectional
If you want to use the Zalman or Antlion mic, you need to purchase a splitter.
Sennheiser Splitter
USB Headphone/Mic Adapter, requires USB extension cable
This unit scored 4.5 out of 5 on Amazon. Please note that this model is discontinued and there are many refurbished units available. This looks like a refurbished unit. I would check warranty. Pass if 180 days or less. You can get a 1 year warranty on a refurbished unit if bought from the Dell Outlet. I paid $360 new from Amazon in December right as these were being discounted/discontinued. You will also need a keyboard & a mouse ($25-50), a headset with mic ($10-100+) and possibly a monitor ($100-150).
You are not going to get an unbiased opinion on a pre-built PC in a sub-reddit called buildapc. These are a great buy at ~$360 for new(er) units. These can be use for low to middle desktop gaming but are designed as an affordable set-top PC console. For the listed games, this unit will do okay to very good (not great to mind blowing fabulous) graphics.
Things to know:
You could get a USB sound card. Very cheap.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1462311183&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+sound+card
I haven't seen too many keyboards with headphone jacks built in. You can get a cheap adapter to turn a keyboard with a USB Hub (more common) into one with a headphone jack http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Just use this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463405548&sr=8-2&keywords=Usb+sound+card along with a regular double 3.5mm male cable...
But thanks for trying out ;)... My smartwatch came with such a cable and while I am tech literate enough to know that it would not work, I always wondered what would happen (e.g. if the device has some kind of protection against that)...
Does the mic have a non-permanent cable? if it does, you could use something like this usb to xlr cable.
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841494&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+to+XLR
Or if its a permanent cable, maybe something like these
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-8&keywords=USB+to+mic
http://www.amazon.com/iLuv-USB-Audio-Adapter-iCB758WHT/dp/B007PFZEKY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-9&keywords=USB+to+mic
I use one of these in my car: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509801051&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+to+3.5
Edit: I also have the Nav package, so I'm not sure if that impacts whether or not it works. But for $6 worth trying out.
It's generally better to go out via USB, whether you're going into a DAC / AMP or not. The SHP 9500 doesn't "need" it, but I personally like more volume and an external volume control for my headphones, so I send everything into my Magni 2U + Modi 2U stack.
As for virtual surround sound...it's exactly what it says it is. Virtual. Simulated. Fake. It takes a stereo signal and digitally modifies it into something it isn't. I suggest you head into Playback Devices / Speakers (your headphones) / Enhancements, and check the box that says "Disable All Enhancements".
If you want to go connect to your PC via USB, you can get one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
I knew this sounded familiar...
After 6 years in my posession, my MSI GT70 0nc has NOT aged well at all
Keep us posted.
Thanks for help with the lingo. Indeed it is 3 mono inputs, and 4 is great. Do they make them without preamplification? I already have preamps for each audio line in, seems like overkill. I was imagining something simple like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 but with several input plugs instead of 1.
I use an external USB soundcard with a USB hub with individual switches. When you turn on the switch, it goes to me headphones. When I turn it off, it goes back to speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=519JLN5GTLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=CRQ01Z8W9J8BRX6DS09X
There are a few <$10 USB dongle sound cards on amazon. I've never used one, but they generally have pretty good reviews, and they are tiny.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787901&amp;sr=8-41&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-Aluminum-External-Adapter-AU-EMAC/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_59?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787923&amp;sr=8-59&amp;keywords=usb+dac
https://smile.amazon.com/external-Adapter-Windows-Microphone-SD-CM-UAUD/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468787875&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=usb+dac
There are more expensive ones too, but I think I'd try one of the ~$10 ones first just in case they happen to be decent.
I can't seem to find it online anymore, but it's made by Sabrent so this one would probably be very similar.
You need a usb mic splitter, I have this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FpvkDbQVRART1
Try another set of speakers or some headphones in that jack. If it’s still mono then it’s a dirty or damaged jack. You can try cleaning it with a cotton bud (QTip for those of you in the states) or you can buy a very cheap USB sound card like this: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UG0EAbFN5KFSM
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483415525&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=USB+sound+card
something like this would work beautifully, honestly, most of them will work, but if you want to be 100 percent sure, make sure they say that they're compatible with Mac OS X.
I'm assuming you're playing the microphone back into your headphones for this experiment?
I think I have the exact motherboard you do (rev 2, iirc) - I skipped using the sound on it alltogether - I seem to remember not being terribly impressed with it. I use an Asus Xonar Essence STX instead.
Not sure my modmic gives me any background noise problems though (an I use mic boost.) The mic is directional - did you bend it to point at your mouth?
A cheap solution for you would be this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJKANZEFTAHA41335G7E
Have you tried a different sound card? I had the same problem, but now it sounds worlds better after plugging it into a USB soundcard. I've read about this problem so many times, you'd think they would just ship it with one to begin with.
This devil helps take out the guesswork.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Im buying a new monitor and it doesn't have speaker built-in or audio jack, but there are some usb slots on it. Is it possible to use audio usb adapter to connect on an external sound system? The only reason I wanna do that is to have audio out for my gaming consoles
I had some junk stuck in my headphone port and used a paperclip to try to clean it out, and I think I ended up shorting the headphone jack, since it now doesn't work at all (though my headphones still fit in snugly). Shortly before this happened, I bought a USB-C to USB-A adapter and a small USB sound card for a project. I've been using that as a headphone jack since then. It's far from the most elegant solution, but it works and I already had it at the time.
This setup has recently become somewhat touchy, causing my music to pause if I bump it while it's hooked up to my car's stereo. I haven't yet been bothered enough to figure out which component is the weak link, though.
I got this one and it works perfectly:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
There are also cheaper ones.
Ok, so an update.
-Latest drivers have made no difference
-Deleting the drivers under Device Manager and reinstalling did not work
-Speakers worked for a little bit, while the headsets did not, but now speakers are full of static like the headset again
-Device Manager lists Realtek High Definition Audio AND AMD High Definition Audio Device
I'm at a bit of a loss on what to do. I would like to fix this so we can spend time together over the holidays, but I ordered a USB sound device as well, just in case we can't fix this. Any more ideas?
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00 is the device I purchased. One additional note as well:
-Using the "test" feature for speakers works fine-there is no static in that regard.
I found a solution to the problem. I just bought one of these and the problem was fixed right away by plugging my microphone into that. I'm putting this comment here so anyone with the same problem knows that there's a solution.
(These are possible fixes, not steps of one instruction)
Good luck
I fixed it buy buying this on amazon.
Is that like an amplifier or just a usb audio card?
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Edit: How about this?
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&psc=1
Definitely some interference then. Best bet/easiest fix would be pickup a USB sound card. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492475156&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sound+card
I have that one and it works perfect.
You could always get a USB sound card - there are some very expensive ones out there but I bought this cheap one from Amazon to test and can happily confirm it works a DREAM. No drivers, no kexts, no hassle. Instantly gave me sound after trying (and failing) for days with countless different workarounds to get sound working in Mojave. Can't recommend it highly enough
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Easiest solution for me was to pass through a PCIe USB hub. This is the one I got, I found it recommended in an old post. Also picked up one of these. Plugged an aux cable from that into the microphone jack in the onboard audio. Then just use pavucontrol to set it up as a loopback device to whatever your physical device is.
Also did M+KB with the USB hub and a hardware KVM switch. There are other means to do it, with the Software KVM Switch and Evdev passthrough but I found the hardware solution to be the easiest and fastest.
Maybe you could use a USB sound card like this ?
On the Behringer U-Phoria i only see mono inputs,you would need stereo.
So chepest bet is using one of theese (https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and a RCA to stereo cable + Audacity (or similar).
And watch ur levels ^^ it musn't hit reds.
Tried both of those and the problem still persists. If I connect the headphones to one of these (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) it works fine, albeit just don't have the positives of the magni/modi. Thanks for the ideas anways
Hey, nope one of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SabrentUSB
Sound gave me endless trouble until I just bought a <$10 USB sound card which worked out of the box (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
There are like 6$ USB sound DACs ("cards") that have better sound than anything you could ever get from a front panel and often from the mobo in general. This one doesn't look fancy and is sold under different names but the sound quality is astonishing considering the price.
I do this when I get sick of messing with sound on my hacks: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458134006&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
>Syba USB 2.0 24-Bit 96KHz DAC
I could try this, but for the other, I already have a similar product that eliminates the static, just not the buzz :/
What I have here
This also happens when I use external USB sound adapter. This is the adapter I'm using: Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8
You either need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036DRYOS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=K8GK8HS0DEVHQ7KSEFMX&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41z%2B2GHs4xL
Or
This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XFK0AVSW3DSAWDHCF3W5
I'd actually never heard of these before. But if OP's headphone jack is busted, a USB set of headphones, or alternatively, a USB headphone jack might be OP's best bet.
I used this usb sound card
and this tutorial
you will just need to find the volume key bind section in the retroarch config and set that to a custom button but i just use the up and down on the joystick for player 1.
Hey thanks for replying! I've got this USB sound card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494929164&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;ref=plSrch
but it somehow won't work with my Zalman Z1 Microphone, all I hear are loud interference noises..
That's why I was looking for a pure USB microphone to bypass the adapter thing.
Ah, that might be it. It's possible the monitor jut has cheap analog components, and any cheap analog hardware can really downgrade the signal. To circumvent this, I suggest buying this USB to 3.5mm adapter, which does work with the PS4. The reviews say that it's a little hard to fit in the USB port because of its spacing, so you might want to buy an extender cable if you have anything else plugged into the USB ports.
Soundcard issue. I'd get a USB sound card. It will also get rid of any internal static you may be picking up.
This one is $7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523727777&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;ref=plSrch
I spent a couple bucks more to get one with a volume knob because I like them.
I don’t think I do mate! Do you know of any cheap affordable ones?
Edit; I do have this if this helps https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
hello i recently purchased a pair of Sennheiser HD 598's although im very happy with them i have a question about the " 7. 1 surround sound" if i use them with a usb sound https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 is it better to use them through the usb sound card or the audio jack on the front of my pc? also is there any software im missing out on for better surround sound? once again sorry for the noob question.
Would I need something like this for my EK10?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The mobo I currently have (x99 deluxe) has something called Crystal Sound 2?
My current plan is to get a pair of ATH-M40x headphones with a V-MODA BoomPro mic for gaming and skype communication, but I'm in need of a USB sound card. Will just about any do, or is there something I should look out for? I'm currently thinking a Sabrent USB Adapter would be the best option with reasonable shipping times.
I found one on Amazon for 5 :)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3CTCSJRE9G6AY
I tried using a y adapter and it didn't work. Just get this sound card with a usb extender if your cords are long enough.
Imma send you a link to something I'm gonna buy with the headset. please tell me if it will improve my sound experience. and if I can use the ad700x + mod mic 4 on it?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I had problems with really low mic volume with a Realtek chip as well. My solution was just to buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ and use it for the mic input, works like a charm. Not the greatest if you're trying to record high-quality sound, but really solid quality for just talking on teamspeak or whatever.
I meant something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Instead of Xonar DX or onboard audio.
The ideal for me would be to find a way to switch my modmic+AD700x to wireless, even if I lose the 'audiophile' quality to be honest!
If you are willing to give up one of the USB ports on the front of the PS4, this little guy will cause the console to instantly dump all chat audio to it instead of your speakers/TV.
I've been rocking one with nothing plugged into it since my PS3 Slim. Blocks chat audio on EVERYTHING...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485366133&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=USB+sound+card
Thanks for the advice. Would the uni directional mod mic be best for gaming? I can see the following Mic and cheap soundcard on Amazon UK, do they look ok?
Antlion Audio ModMic Attachable Boom Microphone - Noise Cancelling with Mute Switch https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oZJ6AbV7VQQ84
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a6J6AbDQQR5VH
I used an antlion modmic. The product actually doesn't interact with the 598's cable at all. It's a separate cable and the mic is attached with a magnet.
I plug it (only the mic, not the headphones) into a Sabrent USB Soundcard (otherwise the mic hisses and is quiet). With this cheap ($7) soundcard it sounds great and is crystal clear.
The Modmic works with all headphones due to the fact that you just attach it and it's ready to use. However, the cables can get tangled EXTREMELY easily so I recommend taking advantage of the included cable clips and maybe getting a cable sleeve should you go the Antlion modmic route.
Here's the one I have!
I would highly suggest getting an Antlion ModMic.
I love my Antlion ModMic (4 if you're wondering) I use it on a pair of Audio‑Technica ATH‑AD500X's for the "ultimate gaming headset" \^(I love my ATH‑AD500X's! Got them on sale for $69, never looking back again.)
Now for the mic.. It's a standard boom mic that attaches to the headphones with a little magnetic clip that has some 3M adhesive on the backside. You absolutely want to get a 5w USB audio adapter to supply enough power for the mic, if you don't supply enough power(ie motherboard or laptop audio ports) the mic sounds terrible(hence the bad reviews), but once you supply it with enough power it clears right up and sound *amazing*. Something like this would work perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_sMBcBbJYT12KP
The Modmic can be found for approx $50 and is an excellent choice for VoIP services like discord. It isolates my voice extremely well from my very noisy Cherry MX Blue keyboard not 2 feet away and includes a handy in line mute switch.
EDIT: Welp. You use speakers so I guess a headphone-mounted boom mic wouldn't work so well... Get headphones while you're at it! XD
hmmm that was not the issue I was having but what did fix my issue was an external audio DAC. I picked one up for 7 bucks at a local micro center. For 7 bucks might be worth a shot. Here is a link to the one I have
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Also another troubleshooting step would be to hook your audio with an HDMI cable to a monitor with built in speakers or to a TV as that uses your GPUs audio drivers instead of your built in ones, prolly realtek? Whether or not you have an extra monitor like that or tv lying around I dunno.
Most likely its an issue with the mic itself, but if you want to try anything before you return it id get a little usb sound adapter, they are like 5-10 bucks and often work better than onboard soundcards. This guy is personally my favorite, and its what I use for my modmic.
I just did some searching and it seems like yes you can, there are ways to do it without buying anything new but it really depends on what kind of computer you have. This video goes through how to do it on a Mac ( https://youtu.be/U51JVcAV1Gw ), and this thing on Amazon seems like it does what you'd want but as you can see from the reviews it's not the best so shopping around might be good. You can also get a USB thing like this which I used for awhile.
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This article explains how to listen to the feedback from input-devices on your laptop, if you're using Windows. If you do this and set the playback device to be your car speakers via bluetooth, it SHOULD work. Lemme know how that works.
USB sound card -> Headphone cable splitter, done.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
+
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Pro-Stereo-Splitter-Headphones/dp/B00GN76HAG/
(both were just first hits on Amazon, feel free to choose similar device replacements).
This is the sound card I use and it works perfectly! Then I used this website to help me set it up and now it works without issue!
also would it work with this (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479855341&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3.5+mm+to+usb) adapter?
I do this quite a bit. I use a Blue Icicle to convert my xlr mix to usb, then I use this guy to plug my phone in for skype (we actually use Discord which works better for us) and my headphones out. Using Asio4All you can input and record multiple USB sources simultaneously.
Yes the amp will connect and properly power the speakers.
For the USB card:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479840110&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+audio+card
Sometimes if I am low on space, I will tear this apart and desolder all the ports and connect wires directly.
Try booting into safe mode and playing an audio file to see if maybe another program is interfering. If it fixes it, figure out which program is interfering. If it doesn't fix it, try using a USB to audio jack converter like this.
Windows sound control panel: https://i.imgur.com/KaQNq0b.jpg
Sorry for the language barrier, my OS is german.
There's two ways to route my line-in audio to my output devices. The Win32 Realtek HD Audio Manager software allows me to set the playback volume of any line-in without going through extra loops. The awful Realtek Audio Control Windows App doesn't have that option and only allows for adjusting the recording volume. In addition, the app only works with the Realtek HD Universal driver.
Method 2 is to set the line-ins as "listen to device", which for some reason results in Windows treating them as "apps". Switching beween output or input devices here does exactly nothing. Volume adjustments work, though. That said, both methods won't honor changes to the default playback device until reboot. Setting up the USB audio adapter microphone jack as a line-in like I did with the front panel microphone jack has the same result, which again, is why I think that this is a Windows bug and not driver related.
The only way to direct the line-in audio to the correct output in an active session is by manually switching between playback devices in the sound control panel, which of course I have to do for both line-ins whenever I want to alternate between speakers and headphones. Annoying.
As I've said, switching between default playback devices worked perfectly fine until the upgrade. In my research I found this person having the same issue with the 2016 creators update. Sadly, with no solution. Also these redditors having the same issue since a month ago. I've spend hours trying to fix the issue to no avail.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
This one, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B28TzbF4YJJ2A
Did you have to boost the signal through windows? I'd get a USB sound card like this one.
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by the one you bought from Amazon? Is it just a audio adapter like this?
If it is, I would try plugging a flash drive into the USB port you had it in. Preferably, one that you tested as working using your rear USB.
If the flash drive works in the back but not the front, then I would open up your case and check that all the wires going from the front panel to the motherboard and make sure it's still plugged in properly.
There’s a video on YouTube. It’s in the settings somewhere https://youtu.be/sB4MT9H8SjE
Edit: you might need a usb audio interface. Something like this : Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r2z2DbNJW2NZ4
I have a ModMic which I used for LANs and I quite enjoy it. Plugging directly into the audio ports on the back of my motherboard caused issues with static, so using an adapter similar to this can resolve that issue - https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503454669&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+mic+adapter.
Also, MassDrop has come out with their own answer to the ModMic which may be worth looking into: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-c-MMlyz18Y
Is $6 too much to spend?
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2
Edit: Here is one for $2.
http://www.amazon.com/Virtual-5-1-surround-External-Sound-Card/dp/B000N35A0Y/ref=sr_1_6
Apart from forgetting that I don't want it to auto focus after every restart (which is a pretty big problem) it is great, the microphone on the other hand is not so great and I would recommend getting the Samson Go Mic (in the image) or getting a cheap USB sound card with Microphone input and this Lav Mic
Something like this is what I mean: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451412831&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio+jack+to+usb
It has audio and mic jack converters
Like this?..http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451206817&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
I'm not 100% sure I've understood this correctly, but I'm presuming that:
The Razer headset only has a single 3.5mm jack (rather than a separate jack for mic and headset speakers) and the speaker part has broken, but the mic still works. you want to use the mic from the headset, but have sound come through some earbuds.
I'm also going to presume (for some reason) you only have 1 3.5mm input on your laptop/pc/whatever.
If that's the case, the easiest solution is probably to get something like this
if you have 2 3.5mm inputs on your laptop/pc/whatever then putting the razer into the microphone socket, and earbuds into the speaker socket should work fine (you might need to change some settings in the OS, depending on what OS you have)
Cheap solution is one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Or bring to a shop have them open and see is it broken from the motherboard.
If it is cheap solution is better unless you're loaded.
So it's there regardless of what mic you use or if no mic is used?
Sounds like it's interference to me. Possibly from the fan (I've had this issue with a laptop before) or something else that has close proximity to that input.
Doesn't matter if there is anything plugged in or not, it's not interfering with the microphone, it's interfering with the input.
A USB sound card adapter like this might help with the issue - but they're not terribly good quality. Might be a good starting point to troubleshoot at any rate - only $6.00
I've had this problem before as well. If you go into your sound settings (assuming you are on windows 7, 8 or 10, reading submission guidlines must be hard cough) under "recording" make sure both disconnected and disabled devices are visible and look for anything that you don't need, in my case it was the "CD Player" even though my soundcard wasn't even connected to the optical drive, and there was this constant hiss on my microphone that stopped as soon as i turned the volume on the "CD Player" to 0. So try some of the recording devices, maybe even playback devices that you don't need, turn their volume down or disable them entirely, see if anything helps.
Secondly, if you can get a hold of an external soundcard (something like this) you could find out if the laptop's soundcard in general is causing the noise. Onboard Soundcards are known to cause problems like this although it shouldn't be like this on a preassembled laptop of course.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
If its a combo port you might be able to use a usb sound card to circumvent that like this - http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51FLiQuh7EL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1QTYTHN8KDM4NNZX1TYH
The headset works perfectly and the audio is decent (SteelSeries Siberia V3 Gaming Headset). I thought about getting this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482869906&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb
But might not be good for gaming don't know
Save yourself the headache and buy a USB sound card.
I have a question. I have a broken 3.5 jack on my PC so I'm forced to use USB. If I get the $26 deal along with this will it mess with the sound or would I be okay? The reviews are good but I don't know much about this stuff and I'm kind of new to PC or at least still learning.
Well the K545s are made for phones, still high quality as an AKG is though and works fine for anything else.
You could get him The Sennheiser Game One with this plugged into the controller but it raises up to about $200 and MIGHT work with macbook, if not you'll need this as well.
I have one of these for use on my laptop when I'm out and about, and it works fine. I'm sure it'd work for the Vive too.
The audio jack on the laptop may not be able to accept that connector type. With a headphone/mic combo jack, there is an extra layer specifically for that purpose, which, if the laptop doesn't have it as well, it won't recognize it. Here is a jack that supports headphone and mic. And here is your standard headphone jack. This might be the problem.
Edit: This will probably resolve the issue for you.
No, I am not 100% that audiocard will work. I have never heard of the brand before and I have never used that specific item. I do however know that external audio cards/adapters work in general. I have a old steelseries one i got with a headset from like 10 years ago that I still use from time to time.
But the 186 reviews on amazon seem to say it works fine. And if it only is the physical damage to the audio jack thats the issue. A adapter like that should be a decent workaround compared to getting it repaired most likely. I doubt the repair would cost 8 bucks.
Now I don't know where you live, or how stores work there, or if you even have any stores close to you. But perhaps buying one in a store nearby if you can find it, to test if it works with the option of returning it could work? No idea how returns work where you are based so.
There are also other models like https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_sbs_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=KKB6N27B9W812JK81QTM&amp;pd_rd_w=jkArY&amp;pd_rd_wg=sD3op&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KKB6N27B9W812JK81QTM
Or such, with almost 4.5k reviews. Should do the job quite well i imagine.
I am however not a fan of give 100% guarantees on something I have never used before myself, as you might understand. But as long as the device functions as advertised, and your headphones work just fine. Then it should work.
It really sounds like RFI but you said you tried different microphones, so I doubt it since most of them have grounding.
What I suggest you to try is an USB microphone or even an USB sound card (they're actually pretty fucking good, audio quality can increase a lot using them), I've used this one for a long time and it's still good but some reviews are saying that the new models are slightly worse (I would just buy it and test if you can fix your problems)
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519931393&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+device
This is the one I use.
I was looking through amazon for a USB sound card and ended up looking at these tree:
https://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-Soundkarte-External-erforderlich-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GB845XHD5K9D6C8TYVCK
https://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-au-emac-Externe-Soundkarte-USB/dp/B00OJ5AV8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520703999&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=syba+usb+soundkarte
https://www.amazon.de/Syba-SD-CM-UAUD-USB-Audio-Adapter/dp/B001MSS6CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520703999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=syba+usb+soundkarte
Do you recognise any of those and could give a recommendation/rule one out?
I also noticed the FiiO E10K Olympus 2 as an option to use headphones with, but i yet have to uderstand the DAC/amp concepts. https://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10K-Olympus-Digital-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-schwarz/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520702763&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Schiit
Edit: Also, would i still use my phantom power supply with the USB sound card?
Edit2: Said FiiO E10K is a DAC/AMP combo.
This was a super cheap build and the prices have changed since I made mine, nor is it the best but: Dayton pucks 16ohm - USB DAC 3.5 - Cheap amplifier - 12v Power Brick - 3.5mm to RCA cable - 16awg speaker wire
You'll also need some small wood screws to attach the pucks to the chair, zip ties, and a couple of wire nuts or you can solder the wires together. If your computer has a front headphone jack that can be its own output independent from the rear jack (like most Realtek onboard audio) you can omit the USB DAC.
You will want to wire up the pucks in PARALLEL (see example 3) so the amplifier only sees an 8ohm load.
I don't know about an amp for the Aura since I don't use them and you'd have issues running one amp for different powered transducers, they all need to have the same wattage
Try putting your mic into one of those cheap usb dongles
This is what I posted in another thread discussing this:
Just verified this with a FX-audio X6 plugged into PC with optical cable, and the mic plugged into a USB dongle into a USB hub right next to the DAC/amp.
Planning on writing something up to document these findings, but the key is using a DAC that uses optical input and dedicated AC adapter, while plugging the mic into one of those $5 amazon USB dongles.
You also cannot have the USB cable plugged into the DAC at all, even if it's not connected to anything. The moment you plug it in, the ground loop buzzing comes out loud and clear.
Hope this helps
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VFTPAbEYSAQRT
Sorry for all the German, but would this one be suitable?
If going that route, you may want to ask for tips over at /r/retrogaming for good places to hunt for decent CRTs, and which ones are worth looking for. I know Sony Trinitrons are the most sought-after TVs for classic gaming, as they were designed differently than other CRTs and had much higher video quality (check out this video if you're curious why). Unfortunately, though, these TVs are usually hundreds of dollars even today...
Otherwise, I know I've personally had no problems with my Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW computer monitor, which has tons of different inputs (S-Video, Composite, Component, DVI, and VGA). I have all of my old and new systems hooked up to it, and the picture quality for the older systems is much better than a lot of LCD TVs I've seen. Note that while it has no HDMI port, DVI and HDMI use the same digital video signal. I have my PS4 hooked up with a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable and a USB audio adapter for the sound. Unfortunately, this monitor does not support HDCP, so the PS4's media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and BluRay playback won't work with it. I've heard one of these things can make it work with HDCP, but I haven't gotten one yet, myself.
Would something like this do the job well enough on my budget? Or would this be worth it?
I used this, works for all my PC gaming headsets http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450153048&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter
Yes, that is a definite possibility. Though, I don't know why both front and rear jacks would have the same issue. If you want something cheap that you can use to get audio working, you can try this. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
Bump
People are complaining to me that my mic is getting cut out all the time, should I switch to the modmic? and I want to buy this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_cart_vw_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=M5S45YQXYW7W2P2QQTQ2&amp;pd_rd_w=wGyXu&amp;pd_rd_wg=nYRoy&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M5S45YQXYW7W2P2QQTQ2
is it good? and just because It's not manufactured by antlion it doesn't mean that it can hurt the headphones right?
thanks in advance
Well, there's always USB alternatives:
I used this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMCW-White/dp/B00YFD2S26/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
However I'm in the uk so if you are based in the us then this is the same product on amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503575932&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+stereo+adapter
camera is here -> https://www.amazon.com/HV-N5086-Camera-Webcam-Laptops-Desktop/dp/B00NBL2KK8
sound card is here -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
both are basically new. no boxing, but never used.
Most likely it's an effect of the jack breaking off. Try picking up something like this as a replacement for the built-in audio.
just buy one of these my dude
Probably not the answer you're looking for, but I bought one of these. It works for me. No more latency when using headphones.
I have read about some people swapping out the M.2 drive in their laptop and installing the drivers in a specific order and that fixed the issue for them, but that seems way more of a hassle than I'd like to go through.
I'm not actually sure which z390/B365 board has the best audio from all the brands. Alternatively You can just spend like $7 and get an external USB sound card like this one. Was far better than the sound card that was in my $130 motherboard. But the biggest difference is the microphone quality improvement. I actually have this one. If you feel the difference depends on the headset. I have a $90 pair of Sennheisers, which are more made for music. Most gaming headsets on the on the other hand have pretty bad audio in comparison and you might not be able to tell.
As for memory, you can still use 3200mhz, but I think it will just run at 2666mhz anyways if you get a b365 motherboard. If you care about the RGB then TEAM has some good ones too. They might be better performance wise too (maybe lower timings), but it's hard to know without knowing what memory timings yours would go to if you stuck them into a b365. That's another topic altogether. There is memory speed, and memory timings linked to it.
Hey guys, been trying to fix this issue for the past couple days and I'm at my wits end, any help is appreciated.
So I have a pair of DT 990 Pro's and a magni 3 to run them, I use a 3.5 mm jack to RCA to connect to a External Sound adapter ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 ). When I check the the audio levels the green bars are moving to the sounds of music but I get nothing from my headphones. When I Plug the headphones into my Scarlet Solo and switch the default playback device I get sound into my headphones, so I know that my headphones aren't the issue. This was all working a month ago before I moved into my new place and I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why no sound is coming into my headphones.
If I wasn't clear enough please ask questions so that I may be able to resolve this issue, Thanks in advance.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
If your budget's severely constrained (we've all been there!) then honestly, a $5-$10 USB sound device should do pretty well. Anything with decent reviews should be OK, unless you have some crazy exotic headphones which it sounds like you don't.
I haven't used thia specific one, but I've used similarly inexpensive ones to replace shitty laptop sound outputs and they were fine: https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505250607&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Unlike speakers and headphones a DAC+amp is not a complicated thing, it's not terribly difficult to turn 1's and 0's into sound and the technology has been around for many decades. The only reason we get shitty ones is because a lot of phone/laptop manufacturers simply don't prioritize the extra pennies per unit and/or allocate a few engineer-hours to make their devices sound decent because, hey, there are features that people want more & the engineers are already working 60-hour weeks & deadlines are a motherfucker so sometimes things get skimped on.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sound+usb+adapter&qid=1570837781&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4
Do you think a USB adapter like the one shown above would be sufficient, or would it have to be a bluetooth adapter?
Every Raspberry Pi I have with retropie does have static when using the 3.5mm jack on the pi even before arcade1up was a thing. The only solution that seems to work is to use an external sound card like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&amp;qid=1570669104&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-3
Get something like this
Dead simple way, just spend under $10 for a dac like this.
Something like this will suffice; https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/ref=pd_lpo_328_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9C1JQFG1ARCGD4BMN7AD
Alternatively, this is what I use; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480335910&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=sabrent+sound+device
Unfortunately RMAs can be a little tricky depending on the manufacturer. Some manufacturers might ask you to ship the board back first, after which they will send you a new one, whereas others may just send you a new board straight up. Depending on where you bought the parts (e.g. Amazon), you could just order a new board, wait for it to arrive, then return the old one as defective.
Alternatively, you could buy a cheapo USB sound card like this if your friend's happens to work. Your motherboard will still be broken, but at least you'll have sound - might not be worth the RMA if a $7 part is enough to bandaid it, but that's up to you.
You can buy a USB audio jack.
Like this one Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter
You can buy a USB Sound card if you want to use in game chat. they are relatively cheap a 3$ here
Alright so there are a few things you can do:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_12?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=ZCGN5DKNG9YS6KQGQDAV&amp;pd_rd_w=88dT2&amp;pd_rd_wg=K5vFf&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZCGN5DKNG9YS6KQGQDAV
I have no idea but if you get desperate you can buy a USB sound device fairly cheaply.
Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492396473&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+device
(I haven't used that one myself though, so do some research first.)
U could try one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rk98ybXDBZF9H
Works with the camera connection kit if u hav that already. Then u just plug ur 3.5 mm jacks in. I use it with my po sub
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493332700&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio
I have this and it works fine
edit or what /u/areyougame suggested should work too!
Will this work while docked?
Do I need something like this:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kx94ybA4JVNHV
And you should
Just get a USB to 3.5 hookup. Something like this will turn your USB hub on something like a K70 into what you seek.
Sorry for late response.
MDR-V6 are a very easy to drive pair of headphones. Something like this won't allow them to work their very best, but they'll work pretty well.
This one is 7$.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536772529&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr3&amp;keywords=saber+usb+audio+adapter
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_H..QBbB9KMM6Y
Nope. All you really need is just a power supply which costs you 20$ and if you are having any trouble with simply connecting the mic in to your computer and want that shit on a usb this shit is [$8]
(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=AASVCZSRE8KW59EN7DHG) and isnt even necessary like the psu is because you totally can just plug in the mic to your comp and it will work. No you dont need a $70 audio mixer either, thats absurd.
try connecting to the 3.5mm port in the front if available, Also try a usb soundcard https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500354002&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card.
I have a pair of Micca PB42xs that are connected to directly into my computer. There's a very quiet hiss from he onboard dac that I assume is coming from inside the computer.
If I buy a very cheap USB dac, maybe something like this, will the problem be fixed?
If not, what should I buy?
We are using this cable. It works fine.
The one that was wired incorrectly is not part of our setup anymore. Instead we are using this.
You would need a USB adapter, USB headphones, or add a sound card.
I agree with /u/damo13579. If you search amazon for "usb dac", you'll find a number of options. For example, this costs just $6.50 and has a mic jack also. If you want something with a variety of outputs for receivers AND headphones, something like this is still very reasonably priced. Of course, you can spend $5000 on a usb dac if you want. If you are out of USB jacks, you'll probably want to get a USB hub or some kind of mac dock (like a thunderbolt dock) for your mac as well.
OK, other than the drivers (which you have already tried) I can't think of anything else to try. So I would probably just get a USB adapter like this one and not even use the onboard audio.
I said I’m new to this, lol... but seriously, thank you for letting me know this is the issue. I’m 100% just barely figuring this out.
Am I right that this should fix it? (Lightning to USB3, USB to audio inputs; + external power)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7KJDIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I9rxCb3QCWQNH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-rxCb1VQVS2A
Did you know, you can use any set of headphones as a microphone? Plug your headphones into the mic jack on one of these bad boys [because if you use the controller jack it'll only work as headphones], then plug it into your USB port and boom you're talking. It doesn't sound awesome quality, but it works.
The cheapest method I can think of includes a male 1/4 inch to double female 1/4 inch coming from headphone port of keyboard and one end going to headphones then the other end one of these and then just one of these going to mic input on computer. if you need a really cheap sound card these work ok. all that would get you started for like 30 bucks
No, that won't work. You'd need something like this if you mobo's input isn't powerful enough.
I'm guessing you're looking for something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540911382&amp;sr=8-20&amp;keywords=usb+dac
Found a 7$ one https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=M4WX1F5G8C0ADYTBX0H2
Are you using the boom Mic that came with? Additionally you can try one of the adapters linked below. It could be that your Auxiliary port on your computer is bad or potentially your front panel is not connected to the mobo correctly. IF you have a auxiliary port in the back of your machine I would test that too.
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https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-5
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1558657549&s=electronics&sr=1-7
I got that as well. Might have to buy one of these.
Prinzipiell sollte onboard reichen, kann aber sein, dass du beim onboard Störgeräusche hörst. So ist es jedenfalls bei mir. Einen Verstärker brauchst du nicht.
Ich benutze das mit dem. Sound einwandfrei, keine Störgeräusche wahrnehmbar.
Über deine Kopfhörer kann ich nicht viel sagen. Sind offen, d.h. dein Umfeld wird sie mithören drüfen. Das Design find ich furchtbar, aber jeder wie er mag.
Absolutely not. If you can spare a couple of bucks and buy one of these USB audio cards, they would work just fine
Tried other headphones and none of them will register on the laptop and it just continues to play through speakers.
Will something like this work so I can use earbuds to listen to audio - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1/188-4935475-9506316
Sound? Not sure if your planning on using onboard audio or dedicated card, but a usb dac might be good choice if Asus hasn't updated the onboard drivers...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Yea that's why, I always suggest staying away from turtle beach/gaming headphones but if you enjoy them then there's no reason to not get them. I always suggest a headphone +modmic combo. I always suggest Ath M50x plus the modmic, and if you do end up getting them it's always good to get this Sabrent if you don't have a sound card, it's needed for the mod mic to reduce the interference from your mobo, and has a chance to make headphones sound even better. In the end it's up to you, but I have a feeling you will enjoy this combo. And if you ever do end up playing on console, you can pick up an Astro mix amp and listen to console and PC at the same time.
Alright so after even further investigation, the static seems to only happen if I am outputting audio from the same PC I am inputting the audio to. If I remove the input from my stream PC for example and just put some headphones on and listen to my line in, there is no static and I can hear my gaming PC audio perfectly. As soon as I begin outputting to the mixer from the stream PC again, the static/buzzing starts again. Same happens when I do it with the Gaming PC. So I am wondering....would [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498258085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+to+3.5mm+jack+audio+adapter) possibly fix that?
It is likely your headphones. Check if connection is OK. If it is not USB, consider using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2TAQUA5LYV6L9&amp;colid=U5AVYLLPQS2R
Otherwise, check to see what people are discussing about your headphones. For instance, my Hyper X headphones were giving weird sounds. I turned off the mic (wasn't using it) and its great again.
i found using a external soundcard fixed this for me. i was having major issues with that til i picked one of these up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_eqGtzbEWWMYAX
completely eliminated all static and feedback
USB DACs exist, the ones designed for phones generally aren't on the cheap (https://www.amazon.com/Kunlun-E18-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00GCDJBMM).
Much cheaper ones exist, but you may have more compatibility issues (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/)
External USB sound card. $8
But KSP isn't really dependent on sound anyways. Some spacey music, engine burns, (lots) of explosions, that's about it.
Thanks a lot for the reply. In your opinion, what would be a decent external soundcard; most I see are little $8 USB "soundcards"
I’ve got a set of Game Ones and a pair of Sennheiser HD58x - I’ve used the Ones via the PS4 controller and while you won’t get the best out of them that way, there is still a decent level of volume.
Another option in the short term is to get one of these Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. [Black] (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CBcZBb1QTCMCY and use the Game Ones via that - would tide you over until funds for a G6 (which I just got yesterday 😉) were available.
Makes sense. It should be defaulting to the mic you have plugged in, but some computers are just weird with that, I'd suggest buying a splitter so that you have a different cable for the microphone and the audio. And if that doesn't work work then buy a USB adapter that translates mic + audio cords to usb
MillSO 3.5mm Jack Adapter CTIA - Y Splitter Audio Cable with Separate Microphone and Headphone Connector for PC, PS4 Gaming Headset- 8inch/20CM Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YvlTBbDN7F54Y
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PwlTBbCBPVBQN
Never used anything like this but you could try this as well. Aux to USB. Probably cheaper just to buy the two other adapters though.
UGREEN USB Sound Card External Converter USB Audio Adapter with 3.5mm Aux Stereo for Headset, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS4, Windows, Mac, and Linux White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vylTBbWFVFPH1
I actually was thinking this would work also? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8. That one you posted how does that connect, sorry for the dumb question, I obviously can't use either audio jack.
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EDIT: I just saw the picture with the usb thing. I'm assuming it comes with a cable right?
in my experience, macs have realllly shitty power isolation in regards to audio. an interface is the only way to really solve the issue. you can pick up a super cheap usb audio device on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
should work fine
I would prefer if I could make them louder with my cell phone. I currently have a Nexus 6P but I'll be getting a different phone within the next few months.
They sound great with my home PC (motherboard).
They could be much better with my work PC, and the sound significantly improved once I started using this adapter.
I guess I'm looking for something to improve sound quality/volume for my cell phone and to make sure I'm not missing anything with my work setup.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4HTIOY
ps. you could also just get a USB soundcard like this one if you already have a mic
I use this myself.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487289864&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+sound+card
you pretty much need to buy a usb sound card to get a decent sound out of these shitty microphones
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478827369&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb+soundcard&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=podcastage03-20&amp;linkId=4abdf23f0f6d95e95d85791bb1efd732
You think something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pNkPyb0EW15X7
I'd ask @AlienwareTech just to see if you can even get parts anymore. If not, you can always get a USB sound card. I've used this one for almost as long as I've had my x51 due to a finicky headset. Works like a charm, and pretty small.
I'd get a FiiO E10K, and just plug in the headphones/speakers into the 3.5mm output.
If you wanted to go super cheap you could get this http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1456941695&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface
A sound card would be the best option; then you wouldnt have to deal with the possibility of reinstalling Windows and going through all that stuff.
Soundblaster Audigy
Does this mean your front panel audio works though? If your audio was out, then neither would work.
Also, something like this would work, looks simple enough:
USB Sound Card
this is... genius
spent the last few days with thinking about different solutions (like extendending the cable to 5m to match the vive cable and zip tie them together) and I have never thought of using the audio and the usb port o.O
thanks I guess I will use a10€ soundcard (maybe this one?) http://www.amazon.de/Sabrent-External-Adapter-erforderlich-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
and the audio jack on the vive
Wondering if one of these would work: Amazon
I have an amp hooked up to my speakers. Just need to hook it up to the pi zero
Sounds like interference if the mic is muted and sound still comes through. Using a USB interface might solve it, but there's no way to know for sure. There are several cheap USB soundcards for <$10 on amazon, but the sound quality may be questionable. For around $30 you can try the Creative Labs X-Fi Go, which I would trust a bit more.
The 9500's have pretty low impedance at 32 ohms and have high sensitivity at 101dB/mW, so an external amp is not really necessary.
Another option is a cheap USB sound device with a proper mic connector. For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
This then shows up as a 2nd device and you can dedicate it to the radio.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
These things exist and are cheap as hell.
Without soldering skills you will likely be unable to effect a repair on your case ports
You could get a usb audio card adapter, something like this.
Keep in mind though that sound quality varies greatly on adapters like this. If audio quality over usb is important to you, you might want to consider a purpose-built usb microphone.
all links to amazon.de
Superlux HD681 or HD668B
Zalman ZM-MIC1
External Sound card
Prije par mjeseci kupio sam BM800 mikrofon, stalak(boom arm), i usb sound card. Kad sam sve to spojio skonto sam da mi treba i power supply za taj mikrofon. Mislio sam koristit stari stolni(15kn) mikrofon(inače shit) dok to ne sredim. Ali ovaj put sam ga ušteko u sound card i razlika je jako velika, nema šuma, sve se jasno čuje. Naravno dovoljno je dobro da možeš čak koristit i za youtube ali morao bi se malo igrat sa setings-ima.
Ljudi na Discordu me moraju smanjivat a sjedim pola metra od mikrofona
Preporučujem ovako nešto + bilo koji mikrofon iz kauflanda :)
What model is it? Did it come with a headset?
Edit: You may want to consider an external sound card. e.g. https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
Ah, ok I think you're having a ground loop issue. Analog mics using the 3.5mm jacks are susceptible to it. If anything I would say try a cheap usb to 3.5mm sound card like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ph3izbNHE0NSE to see if it helps.
https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3
Though, just buying an external sound card would be less expensive, once you account for cables and everything if you don't mind doing sound in software.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_3iXDDbNQ02PF7
I can recommend you to buy a USB Audio adapter and plug it to the PS4 and a Headphone jack extender
Like the other comments say, I'm still in the "not liking my own voice phase" i like to think i have a good voice but I still never like what i record. But other than that, I highly recommend getting a decent mic. Aim for XLR, if you can, over USB microphones. They are a bit more expensive but totally worth it for quality. the NW-700 is a really good beginner Microphone. As of now its only $27 which is awesomely cheap for an XLR, although you will have to buy a phantom power, little box that powers the microphone since the computer itself cant generate it, but thats only an extra $17. And a small adapter to actually go into your PC. This is by no means professional but any XLR is better than a USB microphone, in my opinion.
Microphone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XOXRTX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Phantom Power: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B014H8AWGC/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2/132-8551522-3088534?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014H8AWGC&pd_rd_r=ee89c156-a0db-4f07-b5fd-08246cdd8db3&pd_rd_w=oJwwl&pd_rd_wg=2W4Tj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM&psc=1&refRID=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM
&#x200B;
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3/132-8551522-3088534?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=ee89c156-a0db-4f07-b5fd-08246cdd8db3&pd_rd_w=oJwwl&pd_rd_wg=2W4Tj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM&psc=1&refRID=GZSZ5G9AGGFHYCWXQWJM
&#x200B;
I myself am no professional but have been into this for a while and had this very microphone for like 2 years. I've since upgraded to an AT-2020
If it happens with more than one pair of headphones, it's probably a physical issue with the jack. A smaller independent repair shop might be able to solder a new jack on for you, but the easier (and probably cheaper) solution would be to just use a USB sound card like this.
would something like this workhttps://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+sound+card&pd_rd_r=d38bf4a7-e4ad-46ac-925a-3bb66f550a14&pd_rd_w=lIah3&pd_rd_wg=txsen&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=Z1E9BWCN55GPY8YP2AJK&qid=1569638681&sr=8-3
If you just want the sound output from the jack, you can just use a USB adapter that has the outs for Headphone and MIC.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
So i just purchased the sennheiser hd 598 cs headphones and i think they're absolutely magnificent, but i'm hearing a static interference noise coming through constantly from either 3.5mm port that gets worse/unbearable when i enter an online game like league or overwatch. I did research on this and tried everything from moving around all the wires on my set up, moving the location of the modem, fiddling with all the USBs and other connections to my PC, and messing with some of the sound settings. I can tell a big portion of the interference is coming from my new g602 logitech wireless mouse and i noticed a slight reduction in noise after i moved my modem but it's still too much.
Im considering buying something cheap like https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518104019&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=external+sound+card for a small possible external soundcard that could bypass or eliminate the noise coming from my MOBO but I cant find much info on whether that'll actually work or not. Can anyone recommend me a small external soundcard like this that'll eliminate the noise or just an overall fix to my problem? I also use a speaker that plugs into my second 3.5mm jack and i notice the same static noise coming out of that too so i'm certain its a noise issue.
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFW2BAI
There’s the link for the mic...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=B88RT7NG5RH56CPD4P1D&amp;pd_rd_w=53nLF&amp;pd_rd_wg=mXTxc&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B88RT7NG5RH56CPD4P1D
This is the sound card I plan to get.
Maybe try getting an external sound card. They’re super cheap on amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Plug your 2male to 1female connector into the sound card and plug your headphones into that.
Hi there. Can someone give me a hand with this noob problem I have?
I was toying with the idea of making a few tutorials for Youtube.
Being on a very tight budget, I looked up an affordable mic that could still provide a decent audio and found the Behringer XM-8500.
I can get an XRL/XRL cable from a friend, so my plan was to simply buy an XRL to 1/8" adapter and connect the thing directly into my computer. However, I read somewhere that I can't just do that. It would result in terrible audio quality. Something about impedance and latency (this is Greek to me).
I googled a few things and also read that a cheap external USB card like this one solves the problem. Then found out that it does not.
Then, someone said that what I actually need is a transformer like this one. Another dude said that I should go with a USB audio interface.
I was considering getting a USB interface, but since it's gonna be a cheap one, I must assure that it doesn't miss the feature I need (I GUESS it's the conversion of analog to digital signal, but idk anything).
Would anyone be so kind to tell me what I need in order to have a decent audio in this scenario so that the listener doesn't run away out of cringe?
Sorry if I made this unnecessarily lengthy.
I use one of these, which work great and which I got for £6.50:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IRVQ0F8?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_430548031_0
you could get an external sound card like this and use your "listen to device" method
you could also get a mixer and hook both inputs (your PC audio out and your switch audio out) to the mixer and then your headphones to the output
If you mean something like this then you can do the same with any free audio recording software and one of these things.
Just sync up the audio with the visual in a video editor of your choice, and your set!
I appreciate the input. This is what I'm probably going to do, but with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473607715&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
Accomplishes the same thing, right?
To my knowledge, the front panel audio connectors will ALWAYS serve as the primary output device, and there is no way to change that (or at least if there is, it must be changed in your motherboard's BIOS settings.) This behavior matches the issues you're running into.
One thing you might be able to do is pick up a USB sound card, and plug one of the audio devices into that. That should serve as a separate playback device, allowing you to use either the Playback Devices menu within Windows or a utility like NirCmd to switch between the two devices.
To add on to this, I've heard that one of these usb sound cards help alot. It gives it more voltage and results in a clearer sound coming thru the mic.
In this review video he is using the mic with the sound card and it sounds pretty good for the price.
Hmm. So the motherboard audio out, which you're using for your speakers isn't, working well.
>I have a USB external Dac
I don't think they're the same but have you considered a USB stereo adapter? At roughly $10US it's cheaper than replacing your motherboard and case.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $182.97
| Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
| Total | $167.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-28 16:09 EDT-0400 |
If you just want audio you could get something like this. There are better USB sound cards, or you could get a PCI-E sound card
if you're more of an audiophile.or an external DAC setup like /u/EnglishTimelord suggests.off the top of my head around 120-150 but thats assuming you buy everything online with free shipping and assuming you have access to alot of tools.
Pi Zero https://www.adafruit.com/product/2885 $5.00
LCD https://www.amazon.com/BW-3-5-Inch-Monitor-Automobile/dp/B0045IIZKU/ $15.50
USB Sound Card https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ $6
USB HUB https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Converter-Android-Samsung-Transformer/dp/B00OZDUTMM $6
Volume Potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/16x2mm-Double-Taper-Duplex-Potentiometer/dp/B00O9Y6Z70 $6
Mono 2.5w amp https://www.adafruit.com/products/2130 $3
ABXY PCB http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/common-ground-dmg-button-pcb-a-b-x-y-version $11.75
Power Boost 1000C https://www.adafruit.com/products/2465 $20
Female micro usb https://www.adafruit.com/products/1829 $1
female usb socket https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Degree-Socket-Connector/dp/B00FH85SGG Free or $6
Stereo Jack https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Stereo-Socket-Connector/dp/B00GLQAF7A $6
Slide switch https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-SS12F32-G7-Position-Switch-Solder/dp/B007QAJWYW $6
Membrane set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/silicone-buttons $2.75
Extra button set http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/custom-buttons $2
28mm Speaker https://www.amazon.com/Metal-Inside-Magnet-Player-Speaker/dp/B00O9YG9GM $6.50
two single button pcb http://store.kitsch-bent.com/product/easy_buttons $4.30
2300mah Battery http://www.microcenter.com/product/458057/2,300_mAh_Li-Po_Battery_and_Charger $15.00
More like this.
Something like this may work for you
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
EDIT: Didn't notice your audio jack is busted, changing answer.
For what you're doing, a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon will probably be fine, the Dragonfly would be a bit overkill.
Something like this would tide you over until if/when you decide to go with higher quality music and sources:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465910524&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=USB+soundcard
Could you recommend an external usb sound adapter? I just bought a cheap one off amazon for $6.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467094662&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1
One of the best things about the monitor outside of its speakers and refresh rate is that there is 2 HDMI ports as well. If you ever need help with hooking up an external capture card to the Alpha or something let me know. And if you want to use a PC headset that has the mic and audio jacks separate you can use This although fiber optic utilizing headsets (Astros are great my opinion), sound the best.
you would need a new logic board, the main part of a portable. I would get an external USB sound card for cheap and call it a day.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1
Here ya go bro: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409781139&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+card
The video is private.
This could either be coil whine while gaming (which is normal) it could also be a sound card issue.
What sort of sound card do you have? Something like this, which bypasses the sound card could possibly fix it as well. (Note this is just some cheap brand on amazon)
If you need extra audio jacks there's always something like this
If a spare USB port is available, an adaptor like this should get around the dodgy audio port when necessary. I used one when the audio port on my Asus Windows laptop became sporadically unreliable.
A DAC is the audio hardware the motherboard has to output audio. You can read more on wiki.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=usb+dac&amp;qid=1564739575&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-13#nav-search-keywords
This is a passable DAC which you can use to test the audio. A little expensive option may be a Fiio K1, but since your motherboard's internal audio is pretty good, you can skip it.
If one is for mic and one is for audio [get this] (http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462894146&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Usb+to+Audio)
USB headphone/mic adapter $5.
Is it USB or headphone jack wired?
edit: My idea is to try a USB adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463318434&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headphone+jack+to+usb
Could just be that the headphone jack itself is having an issue.
You shouldn't have to, but maybe pick up one of these for $6:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462795226&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Usb+audio
I found the right thing.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463374868&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+sound+cards
Thanks for leading me in the right direction though, I found this through one of the questions on a bluetooth item on amazon, they mentioned soundcard replacement so I looked it up and found this.
By the dongles are you talking about something like this or more like what creates the virtual surround on the Cloud II's? Or are they both kind of the same principle?
I dont know much about that problem, but I've heard literally every modmic owner and reviewer say that if you buy one, you should get a usb audio adaptor
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510458057&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter
Thats the one I was reccomended and one I've seen many buy. For some reason, it cleared up my audio problems I was having with my modmic. Before the audio quality was questionable, but after getting an adapter it worked like a charm. Also as well as make sure it isn't muted lol
HiFiBerry or PhatDac are a great high quality audio solution, if your soldering skills are up to the task...
https://www.hifiberry.com
https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/phat-dac
If you just need “decent” audio to TV, a cheap under $8USA Sabrent USB may suffice...
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510057666&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+adapter&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
There are also external USB Dacs, etc.
Hopefully this points you in the right direction.
Enjoy your Pi journey!
At this point, below is what I would suggest:
I definitely will! You do the same. The way I did this one was I just ran the tracks playing into a small mixer I have, then a really simple USB interface i got off of amazon that looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511477524&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface
this track is really simple so it didn't take much, but if you ran like 6 different channels into some simple interface like that it might muddy it.
I record most of my tracks into either logic or I use the recording feature on my op-1.
I'd really like to get more into abelton, becuase I think it would really help with workflow, but I have such a mental block on learning it. I'm used to the garageband/logic interface setup.
What are you using the microphone for? the internal stuff on that mic cannot be worth $20, if it comes with $20 worth of housing, cable and a shockmount..... and you’ll still need a boom stand or full mic stand to support if close enough to your source to use it. if you’re just using your voice for speaking, a livelier mic like this (a good one) will solve all your needs and NOT require an extra stand, you can wrap it up in your laptop bag or pocket :
Audio-Technica ATR-3350IS Omnidirectional Condenser Lavalier Mic with Smartphone Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZA6EJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_65LgAb3DWXM8T
also, for using headphones at the same time, a simple USB- splitter solution like this will allow you to listen and record (low-voltage mics) at the same time:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GbMgAbZD9MKM0
This brings you in under $30 with a LOT of recording potential.
to go further, you’ll need a USB powered microphone (like a blue snowball or yeti, but you’ll also want a stand for those) or a full on USB audio interface (anywhere from $100-800) and cables, a stand, a standard microphone, and time to learn how it all works together.
I also just did this 😂. Pi ZeroW running Volumio.
Someone linked a cheap USB dac from Amazon in this sub a few days ago and Volumio recognized it right away with no special tweaks. Just choose “USB Device” for playback.
$7 on Amazon. Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
I'm pretty sure iMacs do not have a 3.5mm input, just the output.
I think you could get a product like this and it will let you accomplish what you're trying to get.
Personally I like overdoing things and I was thinking doing something similar but just getting a full audio mixer to let me wrap my 3DS and PC into the same headphone jack. Honestly, after seeing the product I linked earlier, I kind of just want to get that, myself.
Yeah it honeslty makes no sense to me but maybe I found the problem?
So after that issue I turned everything back to normal and I don’t seem to have the issue anymore. By back to normal I mean, I only use the headphones when I’m streaming (for sound separation) and to connect it i use a cheap USB soundcard this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ootDb8T6M4A6
I noticed that when this problem starered I would hear a “pop” while everything disconnected for a second, so maybe it could be this thing shorting out and affecting all my other devices for a second? Think knight try to buy another one to see how it works.
You can get an usb audio dongle for about $6 on amazon. This way you will have fresh ports. And yes it is possible to replace the ports on the case if you want to get into soldiering and taking apart the components. Or.....you could get audo ports that connect directly to the motherboard.
Something like this?
Those are some really shitty items. I thought there'd be a gem in there, but it's all junk.
The Raspberry Pi Zero is $5 (if you can find stock) and works as a great emulation system.
A USB sound device like this Sabrent one for $6 works great so solve a variety of audio issues like low mic volume or static/broken audio ports.
So many people in online games don't have mics. You can get one on eBay for $1. Please buy one if you play online games. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=clip+on+microphone
My ModMic had a lot of static background noise, which might be what you're having, this was able to completely fix my problem.
This is the guy with the similar/same issue: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows8_1-hardware/microphone-not-working-with-new-hardware/e93fe308-cba8-4c70-9447-f838280f8ae3?auth=1
This is the USB sound adapter (it works):
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Sure! The G5 is just in the same price range as the FiiO, and is also a DAC/AMP like the FiiO, but there are definitely some other options. Also, Something like this might work, although it's not a DAC, so it will still use your onboard sound system, but for that price it might be worth a shot.
if you read the entire thread, I tested the USB adapter with both my older Game Zero's (from i believe 2014) and it works fine, it's only the newer model with the removable cable that doesn't work. All other settings are identical. The microphone literally has to be in your mouth + shouting to hear anything.
I have updated the drivers, still the same situation. It has to do with the new model of the headset, I heard back from Sennheiser and apparently the new model is 50Ohmz impedance instead of the previous 150 Ohmz that I have in my headset. They swear it doesn't affect the microphone, and only the Cans but it seems like there's not enough juice being pulled through when going through usb for the signal to possibly make the conversion.
the adapter is this; https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
Again to be clear. older model GAME ZERO's work with this adapter.
New model does NOT.
Hmmm ... it sounds (geddit?) like the socket on your mobo is twisted inside and will only connect to left or right but not both.
If both sets of headphones work properly in another device (phone etc) then it must be the mobo socket.
If so, you need to replace the sound card on your mobo. You can get a USB sound card to replace the one on your mobo for a few $$, or buy a PCI card for better sound but more $$.
I'm using this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524739930&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=sabrent&amp;dpID=51QY728wxCL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Makes no difference on my machine whether it's plugged in or not
Tried front panel and direct to motherboard USB connections and using front panel and direct to MB 3.5mm connections.
I actually haven't gotten around to trying one to be honest.
I'm away for work at the moment, but I'll order one of these and try it when I get home on Friday. That should work right?
Dear Pi-people,
I want to make wall mounted phones and hang them throughout the city. You can leave voicemails or talk 1-0-1 if someone is on the other line. It will be a closed network of about 10 units.
Your advice on mic/telephone: i think the shoulder mics are really cool for this project. But i have no clue how to connect it to the pi. Will an usb soundcard be ok? I don’t know if these 2 pin connectors on the shoulder mics fit the standard usb cards.
Furthermore I don’t know if the PTT (push to talk) will still function or how to make that interact with the pi; recognising when mic is on or off (maybe sound levels?).
Second option would be to attach a “retro” phone. Anyone have any experience/ suggestions? Regarding software as well (Is Asterisk a solution or Mumble + voicerecord for voicemail?)
https://www.amazon.com/BTECH-QHM22-Platinum-Rainproof-Shoulder/dp/B00Z4X3MM6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518681063&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=shoulder+mic
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TEF3DD19MRMX3V5B2PSN
Thanks in advance!
That is an option. I was going to do that but I saw reviews comparing direct line-in and conversion differences, where the conversion sounded a bit lower in volume. At the time of purchase, my issue was that the Vive Mic is a bit quiet. If you are going this route, I reccomend you get the Sabrent. I might test this out myself and formulate another review in the future. Thanks for your input!
There's something wrong with your front panel audio, then. Maybe try getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484449577&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+to+audio
Ah, my bad, I thought it did.
Hmmm, maybe you could try something like this instead.
I think I've found a better solution. Use this [thing] (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=GVCXB4DYJKV4MNAMZ47N). and one of these. Connect that cable from your PS4/TV to the USB Line In(first link). Then connect headphones to PC and control volume with Windows Volume Mixer.
I have the antlion 4.0 and to get rid of the staitc I bought https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484271098&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+sound+adapter&amp;psc=1. Its cheap but it got rid of the static
Yes
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y18HN098K82D7TJ9J5CH
Used, in great condition except the headphone jack is broken. Offering USB headphone jack dongle with it.
How much do you guys think it's worth?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834230409&amp;RandomID=339851735112221720140405223432
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE
I've had this same issue.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and play No drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gz1jyb3KVE372
^This will solve your issue. It turns your USB port into a mic/audio jack. One for each, so no matter your programming, it will recognize whatever you plug into the mic jack as a audio input instead of output.
It's a bit of a challenge setting levels so they won't clip since it basically uses the mic port like a pair of headphones, but if you are like me (low budget, not recording digital for money) then this is the best cheap option.
You should be able schedule the initial interview as soon as 12-24 hours after signing up. I think from my sign up date to hire date I completed the entire process in 4-5 days! Which was awesome because I desperately needed work at the time! You choose when to do the interview based on the available time slots. However, there are trying something new where you can do a completely self-recorded initial interview, which has some advantages I'm sure. You will have more control over exactly what you are sending them and hopefully show something professional enough to get above $18/hour and closer to $20 or $22!
I would not invest a lot into props unless you are hired by VIPKID. In every stage of this hiring process, you will have access to the power point of what class you will be pretending to teach, so you can find those props ahead of time around your house, or make a few simple drawings. So while in practice you will need a variety of versatile props, the interview is all about getting a very specific case correct. All I purchased was a large white poster board to hang behind me, some post-it note letters to create an alphabet on the sheet, and use markers to draw some colorful shapes/animals/people/etc. on it as well. I would recommend, however, buying a small handheld dry erase board! They are so versatile and it is a small investment cost to apply for this job and look way more professional. I also purchased a nice attachable microphone which I will link below. Don't get too obsessed with finding tons of awesome props, though. Many applicants often focus too much on props and not enough on their communication skills!
If you are hired, I also have a whole list of what props and setups to get then. I'm all about keeping it simple and not having my supplies take up a whole room in my house! :D
This microphone is awesome if you want to turn your good headphones into an amazing headSET!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU?ref=emc_b_5_t
Just get an attachment like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&amp;pd_rd_r=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J&amp;pd_rd_w=5fpY3&amp;pd_rd_wg=jPQH8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J
or
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B004SP0WAQ&amp;pd_rd_r=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06&amp;pd_rd_w=VZKVa&amp;pd_rd_wg=y9wMc&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06
I bought everything in B&H so that I didn't even have to wait for shipping!
usb sound adapters or usb dac (digital analog converter) they are roughly the same thing. something like this at the cheapest end:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
My setup is the AKG K553 Pro + Mod Mic recommended below. I like it a lot. The only negative is that the cable for the 553s is 2m, and not detachable. The mod mic comes with a 2m cable, so I used that and the clips + ties to bundle it all together. It's a little unwieldy, but my headphones don't leave my desk.
I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 because my mobo leaves a hiss when using the onboard mic jack.
Here is a cheap one.