Reddit reviews SE 10-Piece Mini Diamond Needle File Set - 73810DF

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

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A regular file - $8 (optional)

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If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

Files

Looks amazing, and I love the passion you are sharing with your posts. The only thing I would advise you to do is take a moment and look for mold lines, sprue attachment points, and gaps. I didn't see any mold lines, but they blend in with the plastic, but generally stand out once you paint. The sprue attachement point will also stand out. I bought a file set on amazon here that I find work amazingly. For gaps there is green stuff and milliputt for large gaps. There is liquid green stuff, but I have never bought a pot that wasn't dried out. Rather I learned from another mini painter that you can take milliputt, and make a small disk, and using an old brush and water make a liquid milliputt that can be used to paint in small gaps.

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Go for the color scheme that most inspires you. It may be technically difficult to pull off, but you will learn with every iteration that you attempt. The worst that can happen is that you strip it and start over. Enjoy and keep the updates coming.

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

Depending on the intricacy if the design you might want some needle files .

I've found that eliminating layer lines isn't too important if you go down to .08mm; the big issue is that overhangs and drooping on fine details can be a killer that overshadows the smooth surfaces. A few tools I've found handy:

Get a good round scalpel handle and a pack of carbon steel 15C scalpel blades. They'll be your go-to for nicking out tiny little stray globs and trimming plastic. Way more precise and durable than X-Acto or hobby knives.

Then get a set of diamond mini-needle files — they'll be useful for smoothing rough spots. Diamond grit may seem like overkill for PLA, but the fine texture of the grit is what matters: it won't leave your models ragged and with care you can actually restore detail that's lost to droopy overhangs, etc.

Finally, get a sharp-edged "soldering pick" and use the needle files to sharpen it to a nice sharp edge. It'll be your go-to for levering out bits of support, and picking away at larger globs of plastic. If you ever find that the scalpel blade bends while you're trying to clean up a defect, go to the soldering pick.

Best bet is probably to pick up a needle file set. Something like this. I had some CNC wooden ones that I miscut, so I put one of my 1mm bits on a dremel and managed to clean them up well enough. For reference, the slots are about 1.3-1.5mm which is less than 1/16".

I'm about 1/2 way through my assembly. Here's a few tips:

• Use cardboard from the frame/bed as a mat. Keeps scratches & oils off your build surface. https://sunnyside.smugmug.com/Other/Misc/i-8mZ3TNN/A
  
• You may want to pick up a set of jeweler's files. I found I was using them on a regular basis to clear out many of the M3 holes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019N6CV8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• When assembling the Idler Assembly (Section 5, Step 5), us a pair of channel-locks to seat the pulley shaft. I used both channel-locks and a broad tipped center punch to get the right off-set of the shaft. https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/prusa3d/5NNZYZwJQNJNHaTB.full

OK, here's my experience, but in general, just go with what /u/bandit69 says if he shows up. He's the wise old man around these parts.(Although for all I know, "he" could be a 27 year old girl. I like to think of him as a wise old man in a rocking chair.)

Anyhow, back to why I'm here:

I made so many mistakes when I started out and one of those mistakes was being afraid of using wood finish because I thought I would mess it up. I used mineral oil for a while. Definitely don't do that unless you're making cutting boards.

There's a difference between wood stain and wood finish. Wood stain adds color. I've never used wood stain before.

Wood finish is what protects the wood from water/scratches/bumps and makes it look shiny (although you can buy matte finish that doesn't add shine at all). Wood finish will deepen the natural color of the wood (the way wood looks when it is wet).

There are a bunch of different kinds and after using a few, I've settled on clear shellac premixed in a can from Home Depot.

A lot of people use oil-based polyurethane, and it's a beautiful choice, it just takes a lot longer to dry than shellac and I am impatient.

Whether you're using poly or shellac, you'll want to brush on a coat, let it dry, lightly sand, and then repeat the process 3-4 times. It won't look good after just one coat. Being impatient, I don't like this process, but I do it because the results are so beautiful.

I have found that applying wood finish with a bristle brush (as opposed to a foam brush) produces better results.

For sanding in crevices, I use one of these. I have also used a nail file in the past.

Overall, wood finishing is not as complicated as it sounds and you can definitely do it.

I did, it's very easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. I used this diamond needle file set I got off Amazon

I also suggest a set of diamond files to file off the prints.

I got mine a week ago, and my prints look a lot better with some love.

This tool kit may be more than you want to spend, but mine is an amalgam of random stuff that just lasts. I built this kit over 3 years ago and the only thing I've replaced is the Hakko bent tweezers because I used to abuse them. It is my opinion that good tools pay for themselves if you do something regularly with them.

Phillips Driver: Moody 000

Pentalobe: Wiha PL1

Opening tool that I've sharpened into a square blade on one end and a standoff screw remover on the other: Metal spudger

Used to be more relevant when I did more gen 2/3/4 iPads for quick bezel cleaning: 3/32 stubby flathead

Curved tweezers (so many uses): Hakko

Spudgers that last (unless you really abuse them): Menda

Best Y000 for iPhones I've found so far (this one I'm not married to): Bunkaikoubou

The flat file in this set: File

One of those cheap driver sets for bigger stuff like torx, etc. I don't work on stuff that really beats those bigger bits up, so I buy a cheap set for that.

Any dental pick for getting shit out of charge ports, etc.

Edit: I'm sure you can shop around and find cheaper prices, and I also do not claim these are the absolute best tools, just that my set of this stuff has lasted over 3 years and I repair mobile devices full time.

Diamond files like these would work well. These come in handy more than you'd think.

get something like this, with the drills maybe in your local measurements.

then a set of files like this or a complete set like that. than this strange substance.

consider this in case he gets funny. some collection of magnets like those. prices vary drasticly, again go for local measurement system. he will probably need 1x1mm, 2x1mm, 3x2mm. just check if the drills you got and the magnets fit size wise and the magnets have to be neodynium.

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i am not very familar with skaven so i cant give much advice on models but i assume this one will make him happy. it qualifizes for "anything really cool", can be used to build different things he might like and you can use the stuff mentioned above to fill out the rest of the budget if you like.

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this overrated book vendor in the links was just used as example of product and quality and prizes of products will vary drastically. with this stuff you cant make too much wrong with going cheap.

somebody from your country might offer you a good vendor. i cant really suggest specific products since they maybe are not availlable where you are from.

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my most sincere condolences that you lost your partner to plastic crack :(

I'd suggest staying away from a Dremel unless you're reeeeeaaaalllllyyyyy careful. Power tools can take off to much at a time if you slip up.

I would suggest getting some diamond needle files from Amazon (like $8 for the set) and using those. It will take longer but less chance of a massive oops

[Needle file link](SE 73810DF 10-Piece Mini Diamond Needle File Set, 150 Grit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019N6CV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gjm1BbT3WABEQ)

https://www.amazon.com/SE-73810DF-10-Piece-Mini-Diamond/dp/B0019N6CV8/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1522782976&sr=8-9&keywords=file

these are the ones I use. fairly cheap too.

This may be it.

I’ve got a similar set and they work well, had it for 7 years now.