Reddit reviews Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 500 ml
We found 68 Reddit comments about Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 500 ml. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
POWERFUL TREATMENT: Seachem Prime is a complete and concentrated conditioner for both freshwater and saltwater fish tanks, working hard to remove chlorine and chloramine.REMOVER: Seachem Prime immediately and permanently removes chlorine and chloramine, successfully allowing the bio filter to remove ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate while they are detoxified for 48 hours.DETOXIFIER: Seachem Prime effectively detoxifies ammonia, nitrite, and heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels, providing a ideal environment for your betta, tetra, or other fish.USE: Use 1 capful (5 mL) of Seachem Prime for each 200 L (50 US gallons) of new or replacement water. For best results, add Seachem Prime to new water first. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. For smaller volumes, use 2 drops per gallon.SAFETY: In case of an emergency, the 5x dose of Seachem Prime may be used for both ammonia and nitrite. Use a ½ dose if the water temperature is > 30°C (86°F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low.
Umm.. ok. Unfortunately, if that bowl is Liam’s permanent home, he won’t have the really great life that he deserves. No living fish should be forced to live in such a tiny bowl/tank permanently.
A 5gallon is the recommended minimum tank size to give your new pal the best possible quality of life... You can keep him TEMPORARILY in the bowl but you’ll need to change the water DAILY with fresh dechlorinated water (or pure spring water works too but is a bit more costly) since such a small container is going to foul up fast. Remove any leftover food/waste ASAP as soon as you see it.
A larger tank is going to be more stable and better for the betta in the long run. I really hope you’ll upgrade him sooner rather than later.
Some cheap ones can be had:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-40713.html?cgid=300128 (manually click on and select the 5gal. It’s going for around $31.99 at the time of this comment)
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-imagine-aquarium-kit-38988.html?cgid=300128 (be sure to get the 5gal. version currently priced at $25.99 at the time of this comment, DO NOT USE THE DIVIDER, I’m linking you this tank with the intent that you only put one betta in it, 5g for one single betta).
I recommend a sponge filter which isn’t included in those kits but would be gentler/more effective for a betta than those filters included in the tank kits. Also recommended a 25w heater (assuming you go for 5 g tank) with a manual temperature control knob since preset heaters are not accurate.
Once you have the 5g tank, sponge filter, and proper heater, you need to do Fish-in Nitrogen Cycle: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle
Must Have Items for your Nitrogen Cycling process + Additional Info:
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.
https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/
Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank).
Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).
Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are.
Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.
More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
If after reading all this info it seems like more than you can handle, you should try to rehome him on r/aquaswap to a local aquarist with a big planted tank to give him the best life. He’s a living creature and you have to consider his needs as you are responsible for his quality of life. If you want to keep him, then you absolutely have to give him the best care and best environment possible so that he can live a long healthy life (bettas can live 3-5 years and sometimes more if you really treat them well). When there’s a will there’s a way! You can and should do it!
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.
Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.
Second, read about fishless cycling
Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.
You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit
Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.
PetSmart has a 5 gallon kit on sale right now. All you would need is a heater.
I also recommend getting the API test kit and Seachem Prime for dechlorinating the water. Some silk or live plants would be good too. Take a look around the subreddit over the next week or so to see what else you should get. But the tank, test kit, and prime are pretty essential imo!
Welcome to the wonderful world of Betta fishkeeping! 🐟
If you can get it, seachem prime will help heaps because it will neutralise ammonia for 24 hours and its one of the best water conditioners out there, also a master test kit will help you know how much ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph. If you do get the master test kit try and keep ammonia under 0.25ppm (parts per million)
2.5 gallons is still extremely small. If you are upgrading and have the space for even just a 5 gallon tank it is a much more suitable home. They generally run $15.00 at petco/petsmart.
I understand space constraints, but the larger the tank the easier the body of water is to maintain. A 2.5 gallon means very frequent water changes and prone to instability. It also means such a small tank that filter output flows are going to be really hard to control, and very few items are going to fit in or on it. If 5 gallons or 10 gallons will fit in your living space, their footprint isn't much larger and they are easier to maintain and more versatile!
Also, since you don't have your fish yet and aren't forced to perform a fish-in cycle, save your fish and yourself some stress and take your time and work your way through a fishless cycle: http://www.kevinbush.com/cycling/the-fishless-cycle/
This betta seems to have some pretty nasty finrot, this is often caused by poor water quality. It seems like he's in a fairly small tank, unfortunately, this is probably not a good environment for him. Bettas are tropical fish that need large enough (preferably 5 gallons or larger) heated and filtered tanks.
So the best way to help him is to get him into a better tank asap. The larger tank can be an aquarium or a plastic bin. The heater should be adjustable, with an internal thermostat. 25W should be fine, unless this betta lives in a particularly cold place.
A sponge filter is a good option for smaller tanks, here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). Your friend will also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).
The water should be treated with water conditioner, like this one. Most people do 25-30% waterchanges, every week.
Cycling is another very important thing. Fish produce ammonia, which is very toxic to them. Luckily, there are bacteria that can convert ammonia into nitrite, and eventually into nitrate (far less toxic). These bacteria can live in the filter, and remove the bad ammonia from the water. A new filter doesn't have enough yet, by cycling we can make sure the filter media is colonized by the bacteria we want. This guide explains the process in more detail, this page here explains how to cycle a tank with fish.
Please also sent your friend a link to our caresheet, it might help them cure this little dude.
I konw this is a ton of information, but please ask your friend to give it a shot. This little dude can definitely recover :)
I run 4 aquariums in my house and have grown indoor for a couple of years. My tanks are 80,55,15,10 gallon. I use a lot of water for those and for my plants. I use this and this for dechlor my fish water. I also use the same treated tap water for my plants. I have noticed no difference in my plants.
Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.
This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.
I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.
If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.
In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).
I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!
You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.
There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.
While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.
Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.
I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.
Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.
Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!
Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.
A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).
For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.
Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.
P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!
He might stand a chance if he gets into a larger body of clean, conditioned water and you step up water changes.
If the fish is in a small vase, ammonia levels will build up very fast, which means he would need his water changed daily. I can see where you’re coming from but the acute stress of a new tank would be less damaging than the ongoing stress of living in dirty water. It has been slowly killing him and making him more weak. Imagine how you’d feel entering a warm, clean room after being in a freezing cold one with smoggy air. You’d instantly feel better even if it was unfamiliar.
They can survive in small water quantities but that doesn’t mean they will do well or live their proper life span. They are only meant to survive in puddles to get to bigger puddles, and make it to the next rain which brings fresh water.
I would say get him into a new, minimal 5 gallon container ASAP! Get a 5 gallon tote from a store if you can’t get a tank right away. It’s better than what he’s in. You can probably find a kit that comes with tank, and filter together.
Change out 20-50% of that water daily. Use a gravel vaccum to suck up the waste. Make sure you add enough conditioner for the whole tank, not just what you’re adding.
After that, read up on the nitrogen cycle, which should be enough to convince you to get a filter. A ~$5 sponge filter is fine and has a low current. You’d need an air pump and tubing for that. Or just get a canister filter. Like i said you can probably find a kit at a pet store that has light, filter etc for a good deal.
If you plan to fish-in cycle definitely make sure you have Prime, Stability and a liquid API test kit
Amazon has them, pet shops too.
Also a heater is important. High 70s-82 is the best for their little cold-blooded bodies.
Most importantly yes, your instinct is correct, get him into a bigger tank. Good luck!
I’ll edit and link some of the stuff I mentioned.
Yes! Prime. It is the hobby standard and is liked because it removes chlorine, chloramines, and detoxify's ammonia. It is the only water conditioner you should be using.
Also I saw that you weren’t sure what cycling is. A lot of people don’t realize what it is until after they get their fish, but cycling is important.
Basically the nitrogen cycle starts when there is waste. This can be in eaten food, waste given off plants, or fish poop. This very quickly turns into ammonia, which is toxic for fish.
Good bacteria then eat that ammonia, turning it into nitrite.
Nitrite is less toxic, but still very harmful.
Then another good/beneficial bacteria comes in and eats the nitrite, turning it into nitrate, which is not toxic in small amounts.
The nitrate comes out of the tank through water changes.
But in a newly established tank like yours, there is no beneficial bacteria yet, which is why it’s dangerous for the fish, because there is nothing breaking that ammonia down into less toxic chemicals. Many fish can get illnesses like fin rot, which is where the fins rot away from being in an uncycled tank. New tank syndrome is common, it’s when a fish dies from being in a new/uncycled tank.
Fortunately, you can cycle your tank, which is where you build up that beneficial bacteria. You will need a water test kit to test your water, and Seachem Prime water conditioner which conditions and detoxifies the water. You will also need to do some more research, here’s an article about how to fish-in cycle . Best of luck! I hope this made sense and helps. :)
You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)
I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .
I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.
He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.
If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.
I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)
Sounds like the tank is not cycled. Do you have an established tank that you can take water from? If not, I'm not sure what you can do. I hear seachem prime is a great detoxifier.
Nothing fancy. A basic "hang-over-back" filter is all you need. Make sure to get one rated for your size tank! If you get one that's too big, you'll create way too much flow in the tank and it will tire out the fishies. This one on Amazon is rated for a 10-gallon tank.
Again, nothing fancy. You just need a basic heater for your size tank. Don't get an "adjustable" heater because those take time to calibrate. Just get a "pre-set" heater. Pre-set heaters always keep the tank at about 78-degrees, which is perfect for guppies. Again, don't get one that's too big or too small. Too big will heat the tank too quickly and too small means the heater will get over-worked and eventually wear out. This one on amazon is good for a 10-gal tank as well.
Tap water often contains chlorine to keep bacteria from growing in the pipes and making people sick. Its a safe level for humans, but it kills anything that lives in water (e.g., fish and plants). Water conditioner contains chemicals that neutralize the chlorine in tap water, making it safe for fishies again. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Its OK to add the conditioner straight to the tank itself. As long as you have a filter circulating the water, it'll quickly make the water safe for fish and plants again. This is the water conditioner I use in my tanks.
Employees at these stores often give some really stupid advice for more complicated issues, like the best way to make your plants grow or how to breed fancy fish, but they usually do an OK job with recommending the most basic stuff like a heaters, filter, and water conditioner. Its really hard to fuck this up because all of these products say what size tank they're rated for right on the box. Just double-check to make sure you're buying a product made for your size tank.
Once you have these three things, just follow the instructions that came with each product. Its super straight-forward. When you finally have all of this set up, come back here and we can give you some more advice for the long-term care of your guppies.
EDIT: Just to add a few things. The most likely culprit at the moment is either the chlorine in the tap water or the water temperature. If you used tap water and you didn't treat it, the chlorine that's often in the water is probably burning the guppies gills and making it harder and harder for them to breathe.
If you did treat the water or if you're using filtered/well water, then the next most harmful condition is the cold temperature. Guppies are tropical fish and will die if left in cold water for too long. They can survive for a little while in cold water, but they'll eventually die if you don't get the water into the high-70s.
Finally, the least likely problem right now is the lack of a filter. Fish excrete their waste directly into the water and over the course of a few days the tank will gradually buildup a concentration of ammonia. This ammonia will poison the fishies when the concentration get's too high. Conveniently, there are bacteria all over the place that love to eat ammonia and turn it into a less toxic chemical called nitrate, which is very safe for fish even at high concentrations. The filter provides a medium for these bacteria to grow and constantly circulates the water through the bacteria colony so the bacteria can constantly turn ammonia into nitrate. Once the bacteria colony is established, they convert the ammonia into nitrate faster than the fish can excrete more ammonia, effectively keeping the concentration of ammonia at a constant zero. All you need to do to culture a colony of ammonia-eating bacteria is to set the filter up using the instructions that came with the filter. Nature will do the rest: The bacteria are everywhere, so once the filter is going those bacteria will move in to the filter and start growing all on their own. Another benefit of the filter is that it oxygenates the water column. This is important for tanks with lots of fish, but because you only have two guppies, lack of oxygen probably isn't an issue.
The rust from the clip could definitely be a factor, but I would bet that ammonia toxicity is the likely culprit.
Please take a moment to read these 2 links:
The main takeaway from this is cycling your tank. Your betta "exhales" ammonia through its gills and its decomposing waste gives off ammonia. Ammonia is EXTREMELY toxic to fish and can easily kill them. Some of the first symptoms are fin rot and lack of appetite. When a tank is cycled you have a colony of good bacteria growing in your filter. Your filter pumps water through these bacteria and they convert the ammonia to nitrite(less toxic, but still toxic), then they convert the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrate is pretty "non-toxic" compared to ammonia and nitrite, but if it builds up too much it can hurt your fish. Most people do a 25%-50% water change every week to keep the nitrate from building up too much.
A second take away is your tank needs to be heated, a betta needs to be in the range of 75-80F, with 78F being the agreed upon optimal temp. I don't think your tank includes a heater is why I mention this. I not sure the best way to get a heater into it, looks like that may be difficult. EDIT: Looks like this user was able to had a heater. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R25RHCBC3WB1Z2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00CN52TRM)
Regardless of whats going on, you will need a product like get a product like (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468413904&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=prime+water+conditioner). It will detoxify ammonia for 24 hours after dosing, please will make "new" water safe for your first. It also removes harmful chlorine and chloramines found in tap water, and can also detoxify metals.
So now, what to do with this knowledge? You will need to do several water changes to correct the rusty water and potential ammonia toxicity. First thing is to verify that your water is high in ammonia. You can either by a test kit like (https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468413667&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=api+master+test+kit), or take a sample of your water to a local pet store and they will test it for free. You want to test this water before you do any water changes. The reason for this is sometime if the water is REALLY BAD and the ammonia is high and the PH is low, the ammonia can be less toxic. Then you do a 50% water change, half the ammonia is still there but BOOM the PH is back up in the normal range and this make the ammonia SUPER toxic again and could shock and kill your fish very quickly.
If you verify the ammonia is high, Do you could:
If your ammonia is NOT high, you can simply:
And as a final though, if the fin rot isn't associated with ammonia or the rust, one of the best treatments for it is super pristine water. So doing a 25-50% water change (with dechlorinated water) daily until it resolves would be a good course of action.
EDIT: I seem to have overlooked something. If your ammonia is high, that means your tank isn't cycled yet and that you don't have a good strong colony of beneficial bacteria. So after getting the ammonia and nitrite level down, you will need to test for ammonia and nitrite DAILY and be sure you are doing daily water changes of a size large enough to keep the ammonia/nitrite very near zero (less than 0.25PPM) and that the water is always treated with prime. Once the bacteria take over you will see the ammonia and nitrite will stay at dead zero and nitrates will rise. At that point you will only need to do water changes large enough to keep nitrates below 10PPM. This is usually 25%-50% weekly as stated above.
I know you are worried about your betta, but with a few steps, I think he may be able to recover. Best of luck!
I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!
He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.
Heater for 5 gallon tank
5 Gallon Tank
API Freshwater Test Kit
He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!
Cloudiness (especially with a smell) typically means the tank is undergoing a cycle of bacteria. This means that the bioload the tank was presented with (whether the goldfish or mollies) was too high and the tank mini-cycled. You should see a spike in nitrites, followed by nitrates after this occurrence.
Try to buy a liquid test kit such as the master freshwater API test kit as they are way more accurate than strips.
Also, do not follow recommendations on that pamphlet. Nitrates should always be <20 ppm, ideally 0-10. You can accomplish this through periodic water changes with a water conditioner.
Nitritres and ammonia should always be 0 when tested, given the tank is properly cycled for its given bioload.
At this point you'll want to do daily water changes at the proper temperature and with water conditioner to keep nitrites and ammonia as close to 0 as possible for fish health. Cloudiness should dissipate typically in a week or less depending on the extent of the mini-cycle. DO NOT disturb filter media at this time, you'll only make the cycle take longer.
nah man youve got the wrong stuff trust me
this is the only conditioner youll ever need
Ok, so, don't panic. Here's what you need to get:
So what you need to do:
-You can transport the fish just in a little container, it might be easiest to just use the bowl he's currently in. Just try not to slosh the water around too much.
-You can use some filter media from your pleco tank to "seed" the cycle in the betta's new tank so you wont really have to worry about fish-in cycling.
-Read the wiki in the meantime, it can probably answer most of the questions you might have.
I think that covers a lot, if you have any more specific questions feel free to ask!
Finally at work so I can give some links, lol
Here's a cheap sponge filter, I love these for bettas because they have a gentle flow and no mechanical intake for the betta to get sucked into. The bacteria will live in the sponges so make sure to never clean them with tap water or else you'll kill them! You'll also need an air pump and some airline tubing to get the filter going. I've used all of these and it's a pretty simple and cheap setup.
To actually measure the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels, you'll need a test kit. I know some people and stores use strips, but they are hilariously inaccurate. You can have levels of 70+ ppm of nitrate (which is usually deadly) and the strips will tell you that you have 0 ppm. The liquid kit also lasts a lot longer! Your tank is cycled when ammonia is at 0 ppm, nitrites are at 0 pmm, and nitrates are at 0-20 ppm.
To make it easier to clean his tank, you can use a siphon. It sucks up the water for you, all you need is a bucket/tub to catch it in. Makes cleaning a lot less hectic!
Just a side note, Betta are actually tropical (and cold-blooded fish), so they need a heater. This is good for a 10 gal, it's what I use :) You can also get a glass or electronic thermometer to make sure the water is staying at the recommended 78-80 F. If you already have a water conditioner this is optional but Seachem Prime is what I use as it binds and neutralizes low levels of ammonia.
Here's the sub caresheet/wiki, and here's a guide to fish-in cycling (which basically just means cycling the tank with a fish already inside). I know this is a lot of info/expenses all at once but if you ever have any questions you're always free to PM me! I'm happy to help to the best of my ability. I'd recommend getting him a 5 gal or bigger ASAP, and with clean warm water his fins will be healing in no time :)
Lots of live plants are easy to do; my amazon swords, moss ball, and cryptocorynes are doing really well, and I suck at keeping anything alive.
Seachem Prime is the most comprehensive and money efficient water treatment I've found so far; you only need a few drops per gallon. I usually add 4 or 5 drops; easy to poke holes in the plastic lid for drops to come out in a controlled way instead of using an eye dropper.
Okay I see what your seeing now.
Okay so edit up in this bitch! OP, I read your strip wrong. Badly wrong.. You have no nitrite and no nitrate present in the tank based on this strip. Which means, you have noooo cycle at all started. You have "new tank syndrome" also known as your tank ain't cycled. (How long have you had this tank? Have you ever cycled a tank before?)You have no beneficial bacteria eating the poo and pee as it breaks down! And no ammonia test on this strip so we can't even tell for sure how bad the fish are. You need to get a master fresh water testing kit from either a pet store or from Amazon.. These come with little bottles of chemical plus little test tubes. Super easy. And 100% more reliable. Get yourself some seachem stability and if you don't already have a water conditioner/dechlorinater, get some seachem prime while your out shopping..all this should cost you about...50$ or less? I provided a link to the api master test kit. Apis a very reliable brand. I have their set as well. I posted links at the bottom of this comment for Amazon.
Follow what I said above about cycling. This is technically going to be fish present cycling, since at this point I'm sure you have a lot of fish and no other place to keep them so let's do this ;
Daily; Test water with master kit. You only have to test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. (Uonless you are using RO water, your pH should be fine for the fish you have. The pH on the strip is about average. The strips really only seem to be good for pH to be honest.), if you have any ammonia or nitrite values, replace the water with fresh dechlorinated water, add beneficial bacteria and then test again the next day until ammonia &nitrite are 0 and nitrate finally shows up. Once that shows, you're cycled and can proceed to just test weelyl or bi weekly and do 50-75% water changes biweekly or monthly depending on how high their nitrate levels are. Try to stick to less than 40ppm and change it if that goes higher.
But since you have no nitrate value at all, you have no cycle. Which means the fish are probably in an early stage of chemical burns due to high ammonia levels. Theyee gills are burning and are having trouble breathing. But since the test strips do not have ammonia on them as a testing option, we don't know how bad it is. We can only assume based on how they are acting.. OP please do a 75% water change of your tank today and continue with 50% changes daily until your cycle is built up to keep your fish from dying.
Master test kit
Seachem stability ( beneficial bacteria)
Seachem prime ( water conditioner/dechlorinator)
( You can get the smaller bottles of seachem but it's better to get the 500ml price wise due to the fact you'll always need them. Total cost of all this, on Amazon at least will be about 49$ + tax)
There's also this tank from Petsmart, which is a pretty darn good deal for 5 gallons plus tank plus corner filter (I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon, and it comes with a sucky hang on back filter that was WAY too strong for my betta Drax) or if you wanted something a bit smaller, there's this option. BUT, that tank doesn't have a light, heater, or filter. I recommend the Hydor Theo heater for the 5 gallon tank, and the Hydor mini for the 2.5.
As for water parameters, are you conditioning your water at all when you do water changes? If not, the chlorine/chloramines in the water might be getting to him. I totally recommend Prime by Seachem - gets rid of chlorine/chloramines/temporarily detoxifies ammonia.
Otherwise, having live plants can do a world of difference for a betta; they tend to like more of a jungle environment; as long as the plants are "low tech/low light" and get some light throughout the day, they should survive in a tank with regular water changes. And the best part about all natural plants? They don't tear betta fins! :) I'd recommend ordering some from www.liveaquaria.com or www.plantedaquariumscentral.com - both are highly regarded among the planted tank community, and their rates are super reasonable.
EDIT: The reason I recommend these guys as opposed to getting plants from Petco or Petsmart is because both of those corporations tend to sell mis-labeled and non-aquatic plants as true aquatic plants - I fell for this and ended up having to get rid of at least three of my aquarium plants because of my mistake. >.<
Also, if you get the 2.5 gallon and think you can afford it, I totally recommend the sponge filter + air pump combo for filtration; excellent biological and mechanical filtration once the tank is cycled, and it's pretty cheap to boot. Well, cheaper than other options. (I think I paid...$20 for all of my sponge filters - 4 of them - then $10 for 8 feet of silicone air tubing + a set of 5 check valves to prevent back siphoning. The main cost was the air pumps themselves at $9/apiece for three of them. So...$57 grand total for four filter setups? I keep shrimp as well, and they need sponge filtration, so I jumped in feet first, I guess. :P) Otherwise, Marina's I25 filter would work well also, provided your betta can stand a little more current/won't get his fins caught in the intake.
In the meantime, if he's fighting his reflection, it can sometimes help to put some light-colored paper on the outside walls of the tank; it can reduce the reflections he sees.
Golly, sorry for the novel of a post!
The main problem is likely ammonia poisoning. Even though you have a filter, you don't yet have a "cycle". The others are correct that your current tank is too small, but the fish will die long before it grows and needs more space if you aren't able to keep the ammonia down.
The best product to get is Seachem Prime, and use it at each water change.
For now, yes change 100% of the water - daily - until you know that you have a cycle in place by testing your water with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit.
If this all seems too much to manage for a fish you weren't looking to own in the first place, you could always rehome it via Craigslist or surrender to a pet store. If you decide to keep it, you're in for a fun, rewarding hobby! :D
it looks like nitrate poisoning. are you sure you've been shaking your nitrate test enough? the instructions say 30 sec on the second bottle and 60 sec on the mixed solutions IIRC, and they really mean it. you can get much lower readings if this isn't done properly.
that said, i also do not think the answer in this case is to change so much water at once, because it will shock the little guy even more. you are going to want to change a lot of your water, but gradually over the course of the day.
i would also suggest adding a little airstone or two to help him breathe a little bit easier while you try to deal with this.
it also bears asking: are you using any sort of water conditioner? chlorine in tap water can kill the good bacteria that lives in your filter. tho that wouldn't lead to excessive nitrates, it can lead to big big problems fairly quickly, so if you're not already doing it (and sorry for the lecture if you are!), i would suggest picking up a bottle of Seachem Prime asap. use it every time you change any water!
20 liters? Those three fancy goldfish would probably need at least 50 gallons (~200 liters) to be healthy & happy.
In a small tank, they will become badly stunted and suffer health issues & a shortened lifespan. Such a small volume of water with such messy fish will quickly become toxic to them.
When swapping tanks, you can just run the old filters in the new tank (+ any new filtration) because the established bacteria colonies will break down fish waste (ammonia) into a safer byproduct (nitrate).
In the meantime, check out the FAQ in the sidebar, particularly this link and info on cycling. You should also get a water test kit to check on the parameters of the water and seachem prime to detoxify ammonia & nitrite.
You can also take a look at r/goldfish for care.
As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).
Is this going to be your first aquarium?
Okay, that helps!
He likely has something seriously wrong with his water quality given the size of the tank and lack of a filter. There's a decent chance what you're seeing is pop-eye which is caused by poor water quality.
The easiest fix would be to get him a larger tank (5gal minimum) and do a fish-in cycle. Pet Supplies Plus is doing a dollar per gallon sale. I've successfully gotten Petsmart and Petco to price match a dollar per gallon tank before so that may be worth a shot if you don't have a PSP near you. If you go the really cheap route on supplies, you could get him an adequate set up with a decent heater and filter for no more than $40. The key thing is you also want to invest a bit extra in a good water conditioner such as Seachem Prime and an API Liquid Master Test Kit.
I won't swamp you with all of the information on this process in one comment. The wiki and betta care sheet are both great guides to get you started. I also have an amazon list somewhere if you'd like my suggested list of products to buy. Small note that I don't know if the guide covers, you do want plants (either live or silk) and gravel as those help with tank health. Avoid plastic plants as they can damage fins. Silk is fine (most of my tanks are silk plants) but you'll just have to stay on top of your water changes.
Yes, they are. Read the label here: Seachem prime
Prime detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for 48 hours. A little more info can be found here : http://www.seachem.com/prime.php
I'm positive prime is detoxifying the nitrites, I just don't know if I'm doing the growth of my biological filter a disservice by doing major water changes daily.
If you go to a local pet store they might be able to give you some cycled water or some filter media that you can put in. Don't put a goldfish in there, it will just stress out your remaining fish even more. If you can, get some Prime and some Stress Coat and add them to your tank. You will also need to get a test kit so that you can check the water parameters in your tank. Once you know what the parameters are, get back to us and I can give you some more specific information on how to level it out. (If you can't find a water test kit like the one shown, test strips are better than nothing but I would order a kit ASAP.)
I apologize if my post came off snarky, but bettas are a very misunderstood breed. They belong in a min. 5 gallon tank. I've seen others raise in something as small as a 3 gallon tank, but it was not worth the maintenance they had to keep up on. Bettas do best in 78-80 degree water, so a heater and thermometer is mandatory. You want a filtration system, but you want to be careful with the current as something too strong will stress them out. Bettas are not the best swimmers because of the weight of their fins, so most bettas will began to bite them off to lessen the load. As others have suggested, you want to test the water, either by bringing samples to your lfs, are buying a kit, which I prefer. You will also want to cycle your tank to avoid ammonia spikes. I've added links to some helpful things including illnesses so you may be able to diagnose with a little research.
Betta fish care
Great filter with adjustable flow
Edit : api test kit
Great for establishing a new tank
Okay...so there is a lot wrong here. I'll try to make it simple as to not overload you with information, and if you have further questions, please let me know and I'll expand.
I've never kept an oscar before, but i believe ~7.2-7.6 ph is optimal. For all fish, 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites, and probably 0-30ppm nitrates are good numbers. Eventually these will be stable and you will only need to do probably one 25% change weekly. This takes about 10-30 minutes depending on your tools and proximity to a water source.
I would say this is a 75g, but honestly, i suck at guessing. Dimensions would clear it right up. The two plecos will eventually outgrow it, and may have already. They will need most likely a 120g+ tank. The oscar should be happy here. Absolutely do not pay someone to clean and maintain the tank. It is a lot of work up front, but it will be so much cheaper and easier for you. I have 3 tanks (2.5g, 20g, and 75g) and i spend maybe 40 minutes a week total. I spend 20 minutes a week on my 75 and it is mostly water changes.
In addition, the plecos probably need driftwood or something equivalent to suck on to. Currently the atat is the only thing they have in the tank and that is not making them happy.
Things you must buy bare minimum to ensure livable water quality:
> I thought weekly changes were best?
If it's absolutely mandatory: ex- the bio-load too much for the tank and/or filter is large or there is an issue within the tank. Once a tank is established (parameters testing solid over a period of time) you can play with it to see what works best.
Personally I've got a two established 10 gal Betta community tanks that get a good 30% water change monthly and a 40b tank that I do a 10% on every other week due to a very messy baby Oscar currently inhabiting that tank otherwise I'd go for monthly on that tank as well because the parameters test nicely.
> Fluval aqua plus conditioner.
I just googled it and read the bottle. I'm not seeing where it does anything for ammonia at all. So that may be where the ammonia is staying, you're adding in new water but the conditioner isn't neutralizing any ammonia. You most likely need to make a run to the store to find a water conditioner that does work against ammonia. I know many use Seachem Prime as it's a wonderful and fast acting water conditioner. You would only need a few drops for a 29g but it would neutralize any ammonia in the tank.
> So loaches and corys do well together?
I've kept both. Never together though. My concern would be the loaches get huge and they will, once large enough, bully and eat fish smaller than them meaning once the loaches have a group and established territories within the tank they will start to pick on the corys and once large enough could eat them.
-Cory's (look further into which species would be best for your sized tank
As i said before, definitely look into the subreddit info, and check out the wiki. it has a lot of helpful information that will help a lot! PM me if you have any other questions.
OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.
Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)
Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O
If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.
Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.
It doesn't HAVE to be 5 gallons, that is best though. I use a couple of 3.7 gallon tanks with built in 3 stage filters. Sleek and compact but I keep up on weekly water changes to keep my boys as healthy as possible until I get my 33 gallon tank divided and cycled. I'll try to find a link for the tank. If you do end up getting one, a very specific heater tucks away in the last compartment of the 3 stage filter and I'll link that, too. Be back in a minute.
Tank Toss the carbon filter. It isn't needed unless you're trying to pull specific things out of the water and once carbon's done it's job it can leech bad stuff back into the water.
Heater Small, adjustable, submersible and inexpensive. I have 3 and they all work great.
Digital Thermometer This is the easiest way to monitor the water temperature.
If you do get this tank, I will mail you a little round sponge filter which slips over the plastic outlet and gives the fish a nice soft little bed out of the current. You can see it in the picture on the back left of my tank.
A single Nerite snail will keep algae in check and give the betta a buddy. My bettas just flair at the snails if they encroach their bubble nest areas. Snails only come after there's algae to eat so, you wouldn't get one right away.
Some other supplies you will want to consider are, Seachem Prime, API Freshwater test kit and some 5 mil droppers but I get those for free and the pharmacy counter in my grocery store.
Seachem Prime is great for this too, instantly neutralizes ammonia and chlorine and gives you time to mix up salt water.
Hey! Hope I can help a little.
1.) Figure how much water you wanna change. Most people do a 25% water change weekly. For a 5 gallon tank, that's roughly 2 gallons of water.
2.) Fill up two gallon jugs with tap water (or however much water you plan to change). Use a cheap aquarium thermometer to make sure the faucet water temperature is the same as the temperature in your tank.
3.) Add some conditioner to the water, following the bottle instructions. (Most people rave over Seachem Prime, because it conditions water and detoxifies ammonia/harmful fish waste.) The water is now ready to add to your tank!
4.) Most important: Keep up with these weekly-daily water changes. If your tank is less than 4 months old, you should do water changes more often (every other day), because your nitrogen cycle will not be complete yet. Understanding the nitrogen cycle and doing regular water changes is the MOST IMPORTANT part of successful fishkeeping. Many inexperienced fishkeepers don't change the water enough, so fish waste (ammonia) builds up = sick fish.
Bonus: buying a test kit will show how much ammonia is in your water, which lets you know exactly when a water change is due.
Best of luck! We all start somewhere. I doubt there's a single person here who hasn't accidentally killed a fish before.
Okay, if I'm guessing correctly, I'd say your tank isn't cycled. With a fish-in cycle, you're going to to need to either have the right products to help you along, or you're going to have to do daily/every other day water changes, to protect your fish.
What test kit are you using? Keep in mind that test strips are highly inaccurate and shouldn't be counted on. Anyone in the fish hobby will tell you that the API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a MUST HAVE, especially for fish-in cycling. You'll need to test daily to make sure the ammonia levels don't become toxic to your betta.
Here are my list of recommendations:
Until you get all of the necessary products to properly and safely cycle your tank, you'll need to do daily water changes of 20-30%. Otherwise the ammonia could build up in your tank and kill your fish. Even levels of 0.25 ppm is dangerous.
I know this is overwhelming, but if you have ANY questions at all you can free feel to either post here or PM me.
Also, Fishlore.com is an EXCELLENT source of information on all things fish. They're an extremely active forum that has helped complete newbs like myself out when I needed help most. I'd highly recommend doing more research on the nitrogen cycle and asking for help there.
EDIT: I'm sorry, I didn't even see your last question. Oops. I got my plants from Petco/Petsmart, but Aquariumplants.com has great plants that arrive in excellent condition, from what I've heard and read.
Should you get into the hobby? Of course!
Should you buy the cheap bare tank instead of a normally priced starter kit? Probably.
You'll need an appropriately sized glass lid which is $29 at that link for a 40 breeder. You'll also need a heater ($15ish), most of that same basic design are equally (un)reliable so you could get two smaller ones to improve reliability compared to one large one, but don't worry about brand name.
Then a light, which ranges from $42 suitable for viewing and low-light plants up to a lot more money for high-light suitable LED fixtures.
Then water conditioner such as Prime ($13)
And food for $3-$20, too many choices for me to even suggest one.
Overall this gives a better experience than a starter kit due to higher quality and more versatile... everything. The consumables are also larger than the sample sizes included in kits, though those are big enough to last quite a while anyways. And the equivalent cost starter kit is probably a 30 gallon and this is larger. But the overall cost is $130ish which illustrates that those starter kits are actually a decent value, as well as being convenient.
Going by the fact you tagged yourself as a noob I'll put in a bit more detail!
So fishless cycle wise (as opposed to fish-in cycling), you're going to want to get a source of ammonia to kickstart the bacteria reproduction off. Like you mentioned you can use fish food, but I tend to find this unreliable and people regularly ask questions related to the use of this because it's much less efficient than simply adding pure ammonia in. Pure ammonia is the best option because you can dose the exact amount each time, it's available instantly rather than having to wait for degradation of organic matter to occur etc., if you do the route of pure ammonia dosing then get household ammonia which has no other ingredients other than ammonia and water. There's a simple 'shake' test which is as it sounds, if you shake the bottle and there are no bubbles after a second or so then it's likely it doesn't contain any detergent chemicals.
You'll also need to invest in a freshwater test kit, https://www.amazon.co.uk/API-Aquarium-Freshwater-Master-800-Piece/dp/B000255NCI, API is very well received here for their 'Master' liquid test kit. Test strips simply aren't accurate enough to rely on. Also a dechlorinator such as seachem prime, this is so your tap water isn't going to contain any additives that will kill off bacteria/harm your fish, seachem prime is a good choice because it's very cost efficient and also claims to detoxify the ammonia/nitrites, not sure if this claim is 100% proven but the cost effectiveness is why I use it.
For the cycle you need to have your filter set up properly, you say yours has a sponge and carbon, but really you want as much surface area for the bacteria to live on, so if there's space it would be worthwhile adding in some bio media such as ceramic bio rings into the filter after the sponge. A thing to note here is from now on don't wash your sponge in tap water, when cleaning your filter just keep some of the water you drained out of your tank in a bowl and rinse the sponge in the bowl by squeezing it to get the muck off, bacteria will be killed off by using untreated tap water. Also to note, the carbon isn't too useful for anything other than removing medication from the water so it won't add too much benefit during this process.
Now onto the cycle itself, you want to start off by dosing your water to about 2.0ppm ammonia, this is the optimal level for bacteria growth, and now wait! It'll take some time before this level starts to go down, so I'd recommend not testing for at least 2-3 days because otherwise you'll just get your hopes up as nothing will change. After about 2 weeks the ammonia level should go down, and you'll begin seeing nitrites, then another 2 weeks and you'll see the nitrites go down, voila your cycle is finished. During the second stage of the cycle where nitrites are being processed you'll want to keep dosing your tank to 2.0ppm ammonia to keep the bacteria fed. At the end of the cycle do a large water change and you're ready to go.
As a note, I did try and use some of the bottled bacteria like Tetra SafeStart, API Quick Start, but had no luck with any of them, I would avoid them and just do the normal process to avoid any unnecessary purchases.
Hope some of that information helps :) having been through this process I think I covered all the issues I faced.
120 gh = 7° gh which is perfect. That tetra aquasafe is water conditioner and you're better off buying this or prime. Prime is better, but api works well. The difference between the 2 i recommend and the one you have is that tetra aquasafe is marketed towards bettas specifically and i assume you pay more for a smaller bottle.
To clarify, is it 2 ppm before or after you treat it to get rid of chlorine and chloramine? Conditioners will cause a reading for ammonium because the reaction involves generation of ammonium hydroxide. This is unavoidable. Unfortunately 2 ppm is pretty high out of the tap, but if that is a reading after conditioner, it might be a quite a bit lower. Now, I will not be your best resource for solutions since I am spoiled with my immaculate tap, but here are some potential options:
Hopefully one or some of those are manageable!
guessing you meant 24 hour? I can tell you right now that that wont be long enough sadly, I can also tell you that 90% of the time any chain pet store like petco or petsmart will have no idea about proper fish care. There is no offical time you need to wait but you need to wait untill your amonia and nitrite spike and then come back down after some water changes to have completed a fishless cycle. This is a good link here
Since you did not have a proper fishless cycle (dont worry I did the same thing when I started out) your going to need to do daily water changes of about 25% i would say, and get a water conditioner. I like Prime alot. and lastly and honestly, dont get to attached to these guys, they might not make it. But I wish you the best of luck, if you have more questions just ask:)
I see thanks. I always could use this liquid in combination with plants.
Water test kit
And then you can get the aquarium (10g) at Petco
I strongly recommend live plants: Java ferns, anubius, Marimo Moss Balls, bacopa, cryptocoryne, Valisnaria, hygrophila, easy low light plants. Malaysian, Spider (not sharp), Mopani, and manzanita are all good types of drift wood for a betta aquariums
Each of those filters is rated at 40 - 70 gallons. You have enough filtration. Try some Prime: http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422469647&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aquarium+prime
If your tap water has .25ppm ammonia in it, I would consider treating it with SeaChem Prime. If you're already using Prime, then your ammonia readings in your tapwater are nothing to worry about. Prime locks up the ammonia as ammonium which is way, way less toxic. It still shows up on ammonia tests, and it is still removed by your filter bacteria, but it's safe for the fish at those levels.
glad you came to us for help! ^-^
let me start with the basics :D
most likely the tank wont be filled
remember to let dechlorinate tap water, another recommendation is to get an rodi system to help you with the process, I leave normal tap water sit for around 2 days to dechlorinate with seachem prime
the best process that I have had success with is the drip acclimation one for both saltwater and freshwater but I always leave the bag on top of the tank for around 20-30 minutes to have the same temps on both tank and bag but these can change depending on the time the fish have been in the bag though it only should be avoided given the chance of the fish being severely stressed due to shipping
fish can stay in a bucket/bag for UP to large periods of time depending upon the fish, always aim for the lowest amount if possible as you don't know the condition the fish are in I would suggest to have water prepared and dechlorinated
55 provides plenty of room for the guppies to get away from the Betta. Black substrate all the way. You don't need CO2, but it really does make it easier. I'd suggest that in the long run plan. If you do plant it get as much Anubis and Java Fern as you can afford, at least 10 plants and add more as you go. Provide them with good pellet fertilizer and they should do fine with minimum to medium lighting. Just make sure you do a 20% water change weekly after your tank cycles and it should work out fine.
Side note: If you are looking for a good water treatment then I suggest Seachem Prime
A bottle that size will last you for months and does amazing work. Best of luck to you!
What country are you located in?
Petco has the dollar per gallon sale every so often. So, you could get a 10 gal for $10
Air pump tubing
Edit: this is just basics. Other things you'd need: a hood, a liquid test kit, Food- this one is just okay, cheaper in store to get Omega one pellets, absolutely need water conditioner- this one is very concentrated
Hang in there! I've had this water cycling with the filter for about 4 weeks at this point and I'm still not ready to move my betta in, every couple days my nitrite levels will rise slightly so I'm waiting until it's totally stable. Its a lengthy process for sure but it's worth it knowing your fish is going into a safe environment. Don't want to risk illness.
(In case you're wondering, I transferred the 'cycled' water out of my tank into 2 5gal buckets whilst I spent the day scaping it, then I used a siphon to move the water back once I was ready. Even then I was doing 20% water changes to help the water clear up. I use prime to treat my tap water).
Here are some things that may or may not help you grow Wysteria:
Other than that, I don't do anything particularly special. I don't aerate or CO^2 inject. I used Excel once for algae, and it totally melted most of my plants, so I don't recommend it to anyone.
I should note that my tank is a 29 gal.
I use test kits from API:
pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, hardness
For their main food source, I use calcium-enriched algae pellets.
Not every cray will eat fish, so I wouldn't worry about that at all.
A 10 gallon might be ok for your crayfish right now, but it will eventually require at least a 20 gallon tank (ideally 30+).
Here are some steps you can take to help out your cray:
It's great that you're reaching out for more information. It sounds like you and your cray will really benefit from doing some more online research. Read up, there is a lot to learn!
Update: I really need some advice. The fin rot seems to be slowly getting worse/not really getting better, and my 5.5 gallon tank is still nowhere near cycled (the ammonia just spiked, and I purchased a master test kit so I can test for other levels.)
I've been doing water changes of about 50% every other day now. Is this enough or too much? There are some short clear bits that appear to be fin regrowth at the end of her fins and tail, but above the regrowth there are still portions that look like they're receding. I've been adding in Prime whenever I do a water change.
How much salt can/should I be dosing the tank with weekly?
I was reading online that some people do fish-in cycles with TSS and treat the water with prime to stop the fish from feeling the effects. It sounds like a bad idea since Beatrice has fin rot, but I'm getting really concerned and I really want her fin rot to start healing, especially by now. All of your help is greatly appreciated!
Yeah, it looks like it has a filter on the back of the tank (so the back wall of the display is set in a bit and there's a filter compartment behind it). You would still need to put filter media (carbon, bio filter) in that. I'm not sure if the tank comes with it or not. You would also want to buy some water conditioner, if you're going to use tap water. This stuff is good and will last forever because you will use only a few drops each water change.
Otherwise, you get your soil or sand, decor, and plants into the tank AND YOU WAIT. You get your filter up and running and you let the tank cycle. You should read up on cycling the tank (the nitrogen cycle). Basically what you are doing is allowing bacteria to grow that will process the fish waste into non-lethal forms (ammonia and nitrite are lethal, bacteria turns it into nitrate, which with is harmful, but only at higher concentrations). Then you do water change to get rid of that nitrate. That's the tl;dr explanation, please read up on it! If you add fish before the tank is done cycling, 9.9 times out of ten, the fish will die.
Once your tank is done cycling (zero ammonia, zero nitrite) can you think about adding fish. If you are patient, this will take a few weeks. If you're impatient, you can purchase bottles of beneficial bacteria to make it go faster... you can get it down to about a week, but you'll want to test either way to make sure. Buy yourself a nice test kit. API Freshwater Master Kit is all you should need and is much accurate than strip tests.
Then you're ready for the fish :D
First some questions: What size tank are you getting? What kind of filter? You'll need to get a heater and thermometer too, as these guys love warm water (78-80). This page can help you in terms of how to set up a tank. Here are some tips from someone who started in the same place as you once:
As the last poster said, daily water changes while he is in the bowl to keep him healthy.
Lastly, good on you for asking for help about your fish. This is a really fun and rewarding hobby. I love trying to make the best possible environment for my fish and am always learning new things. Ask as many questions as you need to!
API test kit - to test your parameters and see how much you have in ammonia and nitrites and nitrates
Stability - this is beneficial bacteria that will help cycle your tank. This doesn’t replace working on your cycle by doing water changes
betta safe - this is your conditioner that detoxis or removes and impurities of your water. I would suggest getting this in the future instead. Helps better with ammonia too prime
These are the hearty plants I like and are easy to upkeep depending on your light anubias
Hope this helps... most of all look into water changes and cycling...
So, the tetra betta safe conditioner isn't exactly the best conditioner (even though I briefly used it as well, so don't feel bad). The suggested brand would be Seachem Prime, which can also be found at your local Petsmart.
Could we see a picture of his tank? And how big is it?
Fin damage can be caused by sharp edges on decorations, or on the filter intake area. It can also be caused by nibbling, and given that he's a long-finned boy, it could really be either tearing or nipping.
At this point, I'd suggest two things: use pantyhose to test your plants and decorations (if the pantyhose snags, it's likely to tear your boy's fins and you can sand it down if it's a decoration), and use a piece of pantyhose to cover the intake part of the filter (the place where it sucks up water; you can use fishing line to secure the pantyhose).
If we could have a picture of his whole tank, I can help you further with fin damage/nipping.
Not really, thats a water conditioner, like seachem prime, it removes metal other stuff from tap water. If your going to buy a water conditioner, most reccomend seachem prime as do I, but other brands like api and tetra work fine too.
What you maybe thinking about is concentrate bacteria, like this popular tetra safe start plus while cycling water may take long and is great for the bacteria to grow, with this you can put the right amount in the tank, wait few hours and throw fishes in, but keep in check for water changes and keep a close eye on ammonia, ph, nitrite, nitrate and the other good stuff
don't reccomend guppies in a 10g, tetras can go with shrimp(tetras might eat them) and rams should be fine. I dont think you space to put both species
I don't think the crystals will be sufficient. Why not order online?
I currently use the Fluval E100 heater on my 20gal tank and I've loved it so far. It has a very clear digital display that shines red if the water is, if I remember correctly, 2 degrees hotter than what you set the heater to and blue if the water is 2 degrees colder than one you set it to, and green if it's just right. It also lets you control the temperature to the half degree, which I find to be a nice bonus. The heater is a little bulky looking because of the cage that hides the heater, so keep that in mind. Also, I would recommend getting a cheap little mercury thermometer to stick on the glass. Maybe it's just me, but I don't always trust technology to work as it does 100&#37; of the time so I use that as a check to make sure my heater is displaying accurately.
Here is a good video on different filters that are common for aquariums and how to modify them to be better than they are out of the box (for cheap)
I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to when you say cleaners, so I'll toss in a few different things. First off, a dechlorinator is a must for any aquarium, as tap water often includes chlorine which is harmful to fish. For this, many people, myself included use Seachem Prime. This should be used with all water changes.
Algae can be beneficial to a tank in a few different ways, but it can also be unsightly. If you decide that you want to remove algae from the glass in your tank, I would recommend the magfloat cleaner. If uses magnets to stick on both sides of the tank so that you don't have to put your hands in the water to remove algae if you don't want to.
Hope this helps a bit!
You could add something call Safestart. It may or may not help, but it would be worth a try. It is supposed to add enough of the beneficial bacteria that grows when the tank cycles, but a lot of people see mixed results with it. I even tried it with one of my 55 gallon tanks, but it didn't help at all.
You will have the same water quality issues if you move him to a smaller container. Cycling is something that happens naturally when there is a source of ammonia and it will happen in any body of water. Adding another source of ammonia will most likely kill your fish so just leave him where he is and do the water changes every other day. Once the tank has completed its cycle you can do water changes once a week instead of every other day.
Always add water conditioner. It removes harmful chlorine and chloramines from the water that will hurt your fish and kill the beneficial bacteria that will grow when the tank is cycling. This is a really good water conditioner and it will last you a long time.
I've heard Seachem Prime works wonders to condition the water--getting rid of chlorine and chlorinamines. I haven't tried it myself, though. I use Aqueon Water Conditioner, but will try Prime once I run out.
I do the same thing as /u/RunL1keH3LL , I add my tap water to a bucket, add the conditioner, wait a day (to allow time to dechlorinate and to reach room temperature), then add it to my tank.
For me, lighting was the most difficult to figure out since you have to consider your tank depth and how strong the light (which is all new and confusing to me). I'm still looking for a strong LED light that won't break the bank and haven't found one that I like, although many people recommend the Finnex brand.
I'm thinking of getting a T5HO fixture and buying good bulbs to grow plants.
Yup, a small bottle of solution is all you need
Look, /u/piratesaurus is giving you good advice but IMO it's not the easiest way to introduce your friend to good fish keeping. For starters, everything for larger tanks is more expensive. The tank, the heater, the filter, the dividers...all more expensive. That's like a $100 setup. Another problem is that she'll have to learn all about the nitrogen cycle, so that's another big chemical concept. You want the easiest way to make these guys happier and spend an infinitely less amount of money? Here.
Two Med/large KritterKeepers - plastic, less expensive than glass, small, and no hassle doing an arts and crafts project for the divider and worrying about one fish jumping over it. Also comes with a lid, which actually is very important since some bettas are real jumpers. You just don't know which ones are jumpers and it's better to have a lid. Mine never jumps. Other people, their betta always did it and jumped and died the 1 time they forgot the lid.
Two small heaters - stick them in and plug them in.
Water conditioner - Prime is cheap and concentrated. 2 drops per gal
Gravel - not needed if you want the bare minimum
Silk plants from a craft store - way less expensive than pet store plants and almost always made of soft fabric, not hard plastic which can tear fins. Just cut off what you need. Bettas like to float on the surface.
2 thermometers - temp should be around 78
Pellets - NLS (for betta or small fish) or Omega one (for betta)
There you go. No filter for this cause it's so small. Do 100% change once a week. Feed 3 pellets 2x a day.