Reddit reviews Signswise 2 Pack 5mm 40T Extruder Driver Feeder Gear Bore for Makerbot Mk7 Mk8 3D Printer

ya so experience has now taught me that:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00THZK97I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
is crap.

and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

work really well.

If you are missing steps, that would most likely be the extruder. The one they include on the CR-10 is cheap, it has a plastic lever and a crappy brass feed gear.

Most people upgrade to an aluminum extruder like this one, and I would recommended using a 40T steel gear instead of the brass one. Steel holds up a lot better, so the teeth will stay sharp longer and more teeth will grip the filament to keep it from skipping steps.

I have the same machine/hot end it was working great for around a year then I started having intermittent under extrusion issues and they it kept getting worse.

I finally fixed the problem by changing out the extruder gear for one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and replacing the extruder motor as well.

I don't think the extruder gear was the root cause, but all other things being equal the finer tooth gear definitely performs better for me.

I suspect the root cause was either the extruder motor wearing out, or maybe some material building up inside the hot end, creating more friction and making things harder for the extruder.

You might want to switch out the extruder gear as well. Switching the stock one out and calibrating my e-steps helped a lot. This is the one I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Link

They work great, MUCH more reliable than the stock one. I replaced the extruder gear and got a new nozzle at the same time so I don't know which one helped, but it ended ALL clogs.

Actually I think I did. A new extruder stepper coupled with a new extruder gear (/u/speeddemon974 recommended) seems to have fixed the problems. I used these gears: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these.
You will have to re-calibrate your extrude steps. but it made a world of difference with my prints.

This is the one that I got: Title of link (optional) I got a metal extruder housing as well but I honestly don't think it's necessary, just nifty.

This one should work fine, or any made for the MK10. Bought some from China to try, waiting for them to arrive. Don't forget to calibre the e-step.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487643503&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mk10+extruder+gear&dpPl=1&dpID=31pamITDHBL&ref=plSrch

Gears
Thats not the problem for me. It seems like there is something wrong with my printer retracting so much that it gets past the point of the inlet piece headed into the heating element.

Print settings:

Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus - Powerspec rebrand

Filament: Hatchbox PLA

Printing Temperature: 205 C

Layer Height: .2 mm

Nozzle Diameter: .4 mm

Other Modifications: Microswiss All Metal Hot End w/Hardened Steel Nozzle, Microswiss CNC extruder lever.

Trying to fix these little blobs that show up regularly in my prints. If I'm printing something with a little more curvature, they not as visible, but they show up regularly (i.e. with the same frequency related to the extrusion) along straight lines.

They're not due to retraction (like simplify3d is trying to tell me ) as that was disabled, there's no retraction in the object anyway, and these blobs occur during constant extrusion.

My initial thought was overextrusion, but I can bump my esteps from 94 steps/mm down to 60 steps/mm and still get them; anything lower than that and the (rather massive) underextrusion makes it hard to tell if the bumps are still there or not.

Next idea was a problem with my extruder gear. I checked it for any visible blemishes, and didn't notice any, and I swapped the gear (to this just to be on the safe side); no dice.

They seem to be less noticeable/disappear at a smaller layer height.

Any ideas?

These guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same printer. Same problem. This solved it:

https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/

This site also helped: https://www.printer3d.one/en/wanhao-duplicator-6-monoprice-maker-ultimate-tips-improvements/

No I don't think so, but poor extrusion consistency could be why my print quality goes down when I go under 0.60 layer height or slow speeds down below 20mm/s. Both of these changes would theorectically decrease extrusion pressure and cause problems with poor extrusion.

Here is the PLA I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One possible solution to poor extrusion is an upgrade to the extrusion gear. This is one of the upgrades I'm hoping to try in the future: https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=as_at?imprToken=aQzkLClLVwaOhO32jAnr3g&slotNum=0&SubscriptionId=AKIAJSOXNA2EGTA44JQA&tag=letsprint3d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00ZZRI0DC

Another option for making extrusion more consistent and smooth is to increase temperature.

i buy all my printer parts off of amazon. [gears.] (https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497980826&sr=8-2&keywords=extruder+gear)

The first one is fine. Not sure if the last one is any different. That being said, I was able to print PETG pretty well with the stock heating block, though the MS is definitely better. While you're at it, pick up a new extruder gear. Definitely helps, but don't forget to re-calibrate your e-steps.

https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495639138&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=duplicator+extruder+gear

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date